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SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS 
IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


thp:  black-hatted  statue  ix  the  heart 

OF  CAXTOX 


SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS 
IN  THE  FAR  EAST 

BY 

EVERARD  COTES 


WITH  THIRTY-FIVE  ILLUSTRATIONS 


New  York:  G.  P.  PUTNAM’S  SONS 
London:  METHUEN  & CO. 


1907 


% 


# 


TO 


MY  WIFE 


PREFACE 


VENTS  of  to-day  in  the  Far  East  are 


I ^ posters  for  to-morrow.  No  white  man  can 
wander,  as  the  writer  of  these  pages  did  last 
summer,  through  China,  Manchuria,  Korea, ' and 
Japan,  without  having  forced  upon  his  sight  some 
of  the  inscriptions  which  these  posters  bear. 

The  impressions  here  set  down  are  those  of  an 
Anglo-Indian  journalist  who  does  not  apologise  for 
his  point  of  view,  since  the  potentialities  of  India 
as  the  coadjutor  of  Great  Britain  in  the  future  of 
the  Far  East  can  hardly  be  over-estimated.  That 
future  is  perhaps  the  most  serious  problem  of  the 
twentieth  century. 

So  immediate  and  dramatic,  so  big  with  possi- 
bilities and  crowded  with  incident,  is  the  new 
situation,  that  the  writer  publishes  his  report 
believing  that  the  evidence  of  an  eye-witness 
cannot  fail  to  be  of  value  where  Anglo-Saxon 
interests  are  so  closely  concerned  and  so  plainly 
threatened. 

London 

February^  igo/ 


vii 


CONTENTS 


PREFACE  ...... 

CHAPTER 

I.  THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 

II.  CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY. 

III.  THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON  . 

IV.  THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT  IN  MIDDLE  CHINA 

V.  THE  MISSIONARY  .... 

VI.  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  . 

VII.  HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 

VIII.  TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL  .... 

IX.  THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 

X.  ^ THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 

XI.  PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 

XII.  NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 

XIII.  AT  MUKDEN  ..... 

XIV.  ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 

XV.  DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


PAGE 

. vii 

I 

II 

21 

• 31 

47 

• 57 
79 

. 91 
103 
. 117 

131 

. 145 
155 
. 161 

173 


X 


SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS 


CHAPTER 

XVI. 

XVII. 

XVIII. 

XIX. 

XX. 

XXI. 

XXII. 

XXIII. 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA  .... 
THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT  . 

CONTRADICTIONS  IN  THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 

LIMITATIONS  TO  JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 

THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 

INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 

THE  OUTLOOK  ..... 

APPENDICES  : — 

a.  THE  ANGLO-JAPANESE  TREATY 

b.  THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 

C.  THE  JAPANESE-KOREAN  PROTOCOL 
d,  THE  PEKING  TREATY 


PAGE 

. I9I 
203 
. 217 
227 
• 237 
253 

. 263 

285 
. 288 

295 

. 297 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


THE  BLACK -HATTED  STATUE  IN  THE  HEART  OF 

CANTON  . . * Frontispiece 

FACING 
/ PAGE 

YELLOW  COLLEAGUES;  AND  THE  MAINLAND  OF  JOHORE  . 1 8 

THE  JETTIES,  FACTORIES,  AND  DOCKS  OF  THE  CITY  HAVE 

NEVER  BEEN  MORE  ACTIVE  ....  32 

A HOT  MORNING  SPENT  IN  INTERVIEWING  SMILING  CHINESE 

OFFICIALS  .......  42 

From  a Photograph  by  Mr.  S.  Yamamoto,  Peking 

A HIGHER  MORALITY  THAN  THAT  WHICH  EXISTS  AROUND 

THEM  .......  52 

A MORE  HARMLESS-LOOKING  SET  OF  PEOPLE  WOULD  BE 

DIFFICULT  TO  IMAGINE  . . . . .64 

A CENTRE  OF  INDUSTRIES  WHICH  PROFOUNDLY  AFFECT  THE 

ENTIRE  COUNTRY  ......  80 

IRON  AND  STEEL  WORKS  IN  MIDDLE  CHINA  . . .84 

WHERE  GREY  KEEPS  AND  BATTLEMENTS  TOWERED  . 102 

From  a Photograph  by  Mr.  S.  Yamamoto,  Peking 

THE  BROAD  THOROUGHFARE  WHICH  TARTAR  CONQUERORS 

DROVE  THROUGH  THE  PACKED  CAPITAL  THEY  FOUND  . IO4 
From  a Photograph  by  Mr.  S.  Yamamoto,  Peking 
xi 


SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS 


FACING 

PAGE 

I WAS  IN  TIME  TO  INSPECT  ONE  OF  THE  LAST  OF  THE 
GANGS  OF  COOLIES  TO  BE  DESPATCHED  TO  SOUTH 
AFRICA  . . . . . . .118 

THE  SWAMPY  HARBOUR  OF  NEUCHWANG  . . .128 

IN  PORT  ARTHUR  TO-DAY  ....  140 

OUTSIDE  THE  CITY;  A LOAD  OF  MANCHURIAN  MILLET  . 150 

IN  THE  STREETS  OF  MUKDEN  . . . .156 

LOCOMOTION  IN  MUKDEN  . . . . .158 

SUDDENLY  THE  WAY  WAS  PAVED  WITH  BIG  SQUARE  BLOCKS  160 

DAYLIGHT  SAW  US  AGAIN  IN  THE  TRAIN  . . . 168 

IN  HOMELY  VOLUMINOUS  WHITE  PETTICOAT  . . . 180 

YELLOW  CARDBOARD  ROOMS  OF  THE  DEAD  QUEEN’S 

QUARTERS  . . . . . . . 186 

BENEATH  THE  WALLS  OF  AN  OLD  KOREAN  CITY  . . 202 

DOCKYARDS  IN  KOBE  AND  OSAKA  WHERE  GUNBOATS  WERE 

BEING  MANUFACTURED  FOR  THE  CHINESE  GOVERNMENT  2o6 

TO  SEE  THE  LACQUER  AND  GILT  TEMPLES  . . .228 

From  a Photograph  by  Mr.  Tamamuro,  Kobe 

AN  EMERALD  AND  SAPPHIRE  TRAINING  GROUND  FOR 

JAPANESE  SEAMEN  . . . . . .252 

From  a Photograph  by  Mr.  Tamamuro,  Kobe 


SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS 
IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


CHAPTER  I 

THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 

SUFFICIENT  time  has  now  elapsed  since  the 
conclusion  of  the  war  in  Manchuria  to  permit 
some  opinion  to  be  formed  of  the  nature  of  the 
changes  in  the  Far  East  which  began  when  Russia 
was  defeated  by  an  Oriental  power.  Even  earlier 
than  that  it  had  become  hard  to  realise  that  it  was 
ever  possible  to  dismiss  Japan  with  a fan  and  a 
tea-cup.  About  the  same  time,  for  most  people,  the 
wooden  bullets  and  sand-filled  shells  of  another 
campaign  began  to  retreat  into  Chinese  mythology. 
Those  of  us  who  saw  that  happy  fantasy,  “ The 
Mikado,”  upon  the  stage  of  twenty  years  ago  have 
in  the  memory  an  inimitable  and  quite  unique  pos- 
session. Its  gaiety  and  charm  have  vanished  in  the 
clash  of  arms,  and  nobody  can  altogether  feel  them 
now.  Indeed  the  days  of  comic  opera  for  the 
presentation  of  these  peoples  are  over.  We  look 

B 


2 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


rather  for  their  alien  appearance  in  the  Concert  of 
Europe,  and  hope  that  it  will  not  be  an  interruption. 

Four  years  ago  Russia  was  in  firm  possession  of 
the  rich  Chinese  province  of  Manchuria ; Germany 
was  pushing  westwards  from  her  base  at  Tsingtao, 
and  threatened  to  absorb  the  entire  Chinese  penin- 
sula of  Shangtung  ; France  was  creeping  northwards 
in  Tonking  ; Belgium  was  engaged  in  Middle  China 
in  railway  enterprises  designed  to  link  the  French 
in  the  south  with  their  allies,  the  Russians,  in  the 
north.  England  and  America,  the  only  European 
powers  whose  policy  appeared  to  be  to  mark  time 
in  China,  saw  their  influence  and  their  markets 
everywhere  threatened  by  their  more  aggressive 
neighbours.  To-day,  aggression  on  the  part  of 
all  white  nations  is  in  abeyance.  Everybody  is 
marking  time. 

The  dismemberment  of  China  which  the  world 
had  thought  so  imminent  has  been  arrested.  Russia 
has  been  driven,  snarling,  from  one  lacerated  limb. 
France  and  Germany  are  slackening  their  grip 
upon  two  other  members.  The  mandarin  is  upon 
his  feet.  He  understands  the  mortal  danger  he  has 
escaped  so  narrowly,  and  by  no  virtue  of  his  own,  and 
apparently  begins  to  realise  the  bulk  and  vast  brute 
strength  that  render  him  formidable  to  the  world. 
He  regards  Japan,  Great  Britain,  and  America,  who 
have  been  his  preservers,  with  only  one  degree  less 
suspicion  and  hostility  than  he  has  for  the  enemies 
from  whom  they  have  saved  him.  He  is  cramming 
revolvers  and  cartridges  into  his  waistbelt.  His 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


3 


factories  at  Hanyang  are  busy  making  mausers  and 
modern  field-pieces.  His  viceroys  are  drilling  and 
arming  a hundred  thousand  followers.  He  is  rudely 
refusing  to  grant  more  concessions  to  European 
exploiters,  and  makes  no  secret  of  his  determination 
to  manage  his  own  affairs,  and  to  assimilate  just  so 
much  of  the  white  man’s  science  and  civilisation  as 
shall  enable  him  to  bid  defiance  to  the  white  man 
himself. 

Japan  has  turned  from  the  brilliant  demonstration 
of  her  capacities  before  the  world  to  the  less  con- 
spicuous task  of  their  consolidation.  She  is 
developing  her  conquests,  turning  to  new  purposes 
the  powers  of  organisation  and  attention  to  detail 
which  enabled  her  to  defeat  Russia.  She  is  by  no 
means  resting  upon  her  laurels,  but  having  measured 
her  strength  by  a severe  standard,  is  now  taking 
steps  to  maintain  and  increase  it.  With  admirable 
self-denial  Japan  is  labouring  to  place  her  finances 
in  a position  of  stability.  It  is  now  plain  that  she 
proposes  to  win  commercial  supremacy  in  the  Far 
East.  Her  military  preponderance  is  enabling  her 
to  foster  the  industrial  enterprises  of  her  own  people 
in  Manchuria  and  Korea.  She  is  exercising 
ingenuity  to  lessen  European,  American,  and 
Chinese  competition  in  these  countries  while  still 
respecting,  as  far  as  may  be  compulsory,  the  letter 
of  the  treaties  she  has  signed.  Her  agents  are 
penetrating  into  every  part  of  China,  as  military 
experts,  as  professors,  and  as  traders. 

Manchuria,  sullen  in  the  misery  of  newly  stained 


4 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


battlefields,  watches  others  exploit  the  marvellous 
riches  of  her  grain-fields  and  coal-measures.  Korea 
is  in  disorder,  but  it  is  the  disorder  of  an  awakening. 
The  little  vassal  empire  is  moving,  clumsily  and 
painfully,  but  surely,  out  of  her  humiliating  past,  as 
an  appendage  of  China,  into  a more  hopeful  future 
of  incorporation  with  Japan.  The  potential  energy 
of  Manchuria  is  still  bound  and  inert  in  the  pro- 
tection of  international  jealousies  and  uncertain 
claims;  but  that  of  Korea  is  now  at  the  disposal, 
manhood  and  markets,  of  one  of  the  principals  in 
the  situation,  a considerable  increase  of  power  and 
resources. 

Attention  centres  upon  the  principals.  Already 
the  cotton  mills  of  Osaka  and  Wuchang  rattle 
defiance  at  those  of  Manchester  and  Lowell,  and 
the  blast  furnaces  of  the  Yangtse  and  Kiusiu  are 
depriving  those  of  Sheffield  and  Pittsburg  of  many 
profitable  contracts.  The  shipbuilding  yards  of  the 
Inland  Sea  and  of  the  Shanghai  estuary  now  appro- 
priate a share  in  work  that  London  and  Glasgow 
once  monopolised.  Togo  and  Kuroki  have  proved 
that  naval  skill  and  military  science  are  confined  no 
longer  to  European  nations ; and  across  the  Yellow 
Sea,  Yuan-Shih-Kai  and  Chan-Chi-Tung  are  demon- 
strating that  Chinese  can  be  armed  and  drilled  to 
emulate  Japanese  troops.  The  recent  boycott  of 
American  goods  in  the  Nanking  and  Kwantung 
provinces  has  made  it  impossible  to  deny  that  the 
Chinese  share  the  Japanese  capacity  for  concerted 
action.  As  to  the  direction  of  that  action,  the 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


5 


indications  seem  clear.  No  one  can  read  the 
translations  from  the  Shanghai  and  Canton  native 
papers,  which  appear  in  the  Anglo-Chinese  press, 
or  even  walk  amongst  the  sullen  faces  of  the  Peking 
slums,  without  realising  that  anti-foreign  feeling  is 
as  widespread  and  aggressive  as  ever,  with  hints  of 
power  to  turn  words  to  deeds. 

The  menace  of  all  this  is  not  confined  to  the 
Far  East.  It  looks  over  the  Szechuen  passes  into 
British  India.  It  fills  the  minds  of  imaginative 
Bengali  Hindus  in  plains  of  the  Hooghly,  and'  of 
polished  Mahratta  Brahmins  in  Deccan  uplands, 
with  what  Anglo-Indians  name  sedition.  Its  shadow 
overtops  the  snows  of  the  Sofaid-Kot  and  stretches 
to  Kabul.  Its  voice  has  stirred  up  a new  spirit  of 
unrest  as  far  as  Persia. 

The  situation  is  aggravated  by  the  action  of  the 
white  labour  parties  in  the  principal  British  colonies 
and  in  the  United  States.  Canada  imposes  a pro- 
hibitive Chinese  poll-tax,  and,  but  for  respect  for 
English  treaties,  would  have  extended  it  to 
Japanese.  The  United  States  have  gone  further. 
California  excludes  Chinese  workers  and  ostracises 
Japanese  school-children.  A South  African 

hostility  to  Chinese  labour  competition  has  been 
advertised  in  China  by  party  misrepresentation  in 
England.  Australian  legislation  against  yellow 

immigration  has  become  widely  known.  Resent- 
ment and  matter  for  more  resentment  is  accumu- 
lating in  Peking  and  Tokyo.  Every  individual 
incident,  no  matter  how  remote,  where  Chinese  or 


6 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


Japanese  receive  unfriendly  treatment  at  the  white 
man’s  hands,  is  remembered  to  be  returned  some 
day  with  increment. 

There  was  a time  when  the  problem  of  the  Far 
East  was  a question  of  quarrels  amongst  European 
powers  over  the  apportionment  of  rights  to  exploit 
the  inheritance  of  the  yellow  race.  It  wears  a 
very  different  aspect  now.  The  existence,  not  the 
apportionment,  of  such  rights  is  in  dispute ; for  it 
is  clear  that  the  yellow  race  will  no  longer  submit 
willingly  to  exploitation  of  any  kind.  Many  things 
are  said  and  shouted,  but  the  purport  of  them  all  is 
“ Hands  off.”  A mob  may  occupy  the  foreground, 
but  ordered  battalions  stand  in  the  middle  distance. 
The  w’hite  merchants  of  the  ports,  the  white  mis- 
sionaries of  the  hinterland  and  the  white  officials 
of  the  diplomatic  centres  are  compelled  to  adjust 
themselves  to  a new  set  of  conditions. 

Present  developments  have  their  roots  in  the 
immediate  past.  In  1894  Japan  and  China  were  at 
war  to  decide  whose  influence  should  predominate  in 
Korea.  Yuan-Shih-Kai,  who  represented  Chinese 
interests  at  the  court  of  Seoul,  returned  to  Tientsin, 
after  the  close  of  the  struggle,  full  of  the  necessity 
of  adopting  the  methods  which  had  made  Japan 
victorious.  Subsequently,  as  Governor  in  Shantung, 
and  afterwards  Viceroy  in  Chihli,  Yuan-Shih-Kai 
carried  his  beliefs  into  action.  He  has  been  the 
organiser  of  an  immense  modernising  movement  in 
Northern  China.  He  has  founded  schools,  built 
roads,  raised  seventy  thousand  troops,  introduced 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


7 


European  and  Japanese  military  instructors,  and 
imported  and  manufactured  modern  weapons.  He 
was  a member  of  the  reform  party  in  Peking  which 
had  the  ear  of  the  Chinese  Emperor  before  the 
Boxer  rising ; but  he  went  over  to  the  reactionaries 
under  the  Dowager  Empress,  when  trouble  began, 
and  was  thus  instrumental  in  reducing  the  Emperor 
to  a stepmother’s  shadow.  When  the  subsequent 
wave  of  anti-foreign  agitation  swept  over  China  and 
Boxers  besieged  the  Peking  Legations,  he  kept  aloof 
in  his  own  province.  He  avoided  embroiling 
himself  through  the  years  when  Russia  was  annex- 
ing Manchuria,  and  afterwards  when  Japan  was 
turning  her  out ; and  he  has  obtained  the  reward 
of  his  caution  in  becoming  the  most  powerful 
man  in  China. 

This  stout-bodied,  energetic,  pleasant-mannered 
mandarin  is  now  in  the  prime  of  life,  not  trusted 
completely  by  either  reformers  or  conservatives,  and 
with  many  bitter  enemies  in  southern  and  central 
China.  The  wave  of  reaction  which  is  tidal  in 
China,  periodically  threatens  but  never  submerges 
him,  and  he  continues  to  control  the  one  efficient 
organisation  which  exists  for  imposing  the  will  of 
an  individual  upon  the  country.  Yuan-Shih-Kai 
cannot  altogether  escape  the  reproach  of  being 
a time-server ; but  he  dominates  Northern  China, 
and  no  survey  of  the  situation  in  the  Far  East 
could  be  made  without  consideration  of  his  person- 
ality, and  reference  to  the  sequence  of  events  that 
has  made  him  what  he  is.  The  imperious  old 


8 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


Dowager  Empress  and  her  weak-minded  stepson 
are  impotent  figureheads  beside  this  virile  adminis- 
trator. The  time-worn  Viceroy  Chan-Chi-Tung, 
who  rules  the  central  river  provinces,  carries  far 
less  weight.  Chan-Chi-Tung  is  to  Middle  China 
very  much  what  Yuan-Shih-Kai  is  in  the  north  ; 
but  he  belongs  to  an  older  and  less  efficient 
generation.  This  ruler  established  the  cotton-mills, 
ironworks,  and  rifle  factories  which  have  made 
Hankow  famous.  He  has  raised  fifty  thousand 
men  and  armed  and  drilled  them  in  modern  fashion; 
but  they  are  vastly  less  efficient  than  the  force 
controlled  by  Yuan-Shih-Kai.  Manoeuvres  were  in 
progress  in  Honan  last  autumn,  in  which  the  troops 
of  both  Yuan-Shih-Kai  and  Chan-Chi-Tung  took 
part.  Yuan-Shih-Kai  sent  batteries  of  quick-firing 
guns  with  his  men,  as  a matter  of  course.  Chan- 
Chi-Tung  discovered,  at  the  last  moment,  that  he 
had  only  comparatively  old-fashioned  slow-firers  to 
set  against  the  brand-new  Krupps  of  the  north. 
His  agents  were  busy  in  Shanghai  last  summer, 
endeavouring  to  buy  quick-firers  from  anywhere  or 
anybody,  at  no  matter  what  cost,  provided  they 
could  be  delivered  immediately.  Whether  they 
would  shoot  straight  mattered  little.  They  were 
wanted  to  save  Chan-Chi-Tung  from  being  publicly 
outdone,  and  for  no  other  purpose.  Yuan-Shih-Kai 
means  his  guns  for  use ; and  herein  lies  the  diffe- 
rence between  his  methods  and  those  of  most  of 
his  predecessors.  Yuan-Shih-Kai  fills  in  the  China 
of  to-day  a place  comparable,  allowing  for  the 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


9 


difference  in  the  men,  to  that  which  Marquis  I to 
occupied  in  the  Japan  of  twenty  years  ago.  The 
movement  he  is  associated  with  is  the  leading  fact 
in  the  present  Far  Eastern  awakening. 

_What  is  the  significance  of  this  new  activity? 
Will  it  grow  and  strengthen  until  it  raises  the 
Mongolian  into  an  overbalancing  factor  in  the 
equipoise  of  the  world,  or  has  it  limits  that  will 
restrain  its  development  and  keep  it  from  going 
beyond  local  and  temporary  bounds?  Industrially 
and  commercially  the  yellow  race  is  entering  into 
competition  with  the  white.  It  is  obvious  that  the 
markets  of  the  Far  East  are  now  in  dispute.  Is 
British  trade  in  danger  in  China  and  Japan  alone, 
or  does  competition  threaten  seriously  over  a yet 
wider  area  ? The  infection  of  the  boycott  has 
shown  itself  mildly  in  Bengal.  Is  it  to  take  hold 
like  the  plague?  Japan  has  leapt  suddenly  into  the 
arena  of  the  big  military  powers.  Is  China  about 
to  follow  her  example?  Are  the  armies  of  Yuan- 
Shih-Kai  and  Chan-Chi-Tung  destined  to  sink  back 
into  impotence,  or  to  become  the  parents  of  efficient 
forces  exceeding  those  of  the  Mikado  as  the  people 
of  China  outnumber  those  of  Japan  ? In  material 
resources  and  in  men  there  are  the  makings  of  nine 
Japans  in  China.  Are  the  nine  units,  or  any  of 
them,  capable  of  the  organisation  and  development 
which  have  enabled  Japan  to  take  a place  beside 
France  and  Germany  in  the  politics  of  the  world? 
And  what  is  the  real  presage  of  Japan?  Are  her 
victories  in  war  over  Russia,  her  successes  in  peace 


10 


THE  CASE  FOR  ENQUIRY 


over  Manchester  and  Pittsburg,  preludes  to  still 
wider  conquests  and  more  general  commercial  ad- 
vance ? Japan  has  been  the  apt  pupil  of  Western 
races.  Is  she  about  to  become  their  teacher?  In 
China  she  neighbours  a race  related  to  herself  but 
of  giant  growth.  How  far  can  this  strange  pair  go  ? 

Japan  has  imported  many  of  the  ideas  of  modern 
civilisation  which  make  for  stability  and  power. 
Will  she  be  able  to  reject  those  which  tend  towards 
disintegration  at  home  and  weakness  abroad  ? She 
has  proved  the  efficiency  of  bureaucratic  control  of 
her  national  energies ; but  will  her  proletariat  be 
contented  to  keep  permanently  in  the  background? 
What  will  become  of  her  national  policy  if  her 
imitative  faculty  gives  her  a labour  party  organised 
as  in  Australia  and  England  ? 

The  answers  to  all  these  questions  depend,  of 
course,  not  only  upon  resources  and  odds  of  circum- 
stance, but  upon  the  temperament,  the  capacity, 
and  the  character  of  the  various  yellow  peoples 
concerned.  The  problem  of  the  Far  East  is  im- 
manent in  the  peoples  of  the  Far  East,  more  than 
in  the  material  facts  which  appear  to  equip  them; 
and  Mongolians  are  so  different  from  Europeans  that 
but  few  of  the  solving  standards  of  the  West  apply. 


CHAPTER  II 


CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY 

IN  every  British  port  in  the  Indian  seas,  from 
the  coast  of  Bengal  to  that  of  the  Straits  Settle- 
ments, the  Chinese  element  is  becoming  increasingly 
prominent.  In  Calcutta  it  is  chiefly  represented  by 
industrious  artisans,  including  shoemakers  and  car- 
penters, who  find  ready  employment  on  the  merits 
of  their  work,  though  skilled  native  labour  competes 
at  rates  of  pay  which  average  about  half  what  the 
Chinese  will  accept  in  the  same  handicrafts.  In  the 
year  1900,  when  a contingent  of  thirty  thousand 
troops  was  under  urgent  despatch  from  India  to 
represent  Great  Britain  in  the  allied  operations  for 
the  relief  of  the  Peking  Legations,  a strike  amongst 
the  Chinese  fitters  in  the  Calcutta  dockyard  proved 
sufficient  to  delay  the  transports  by  at  least  a day. 
As  far  as  is  known  the  strikers  cared  nothing  for 
the  situation  at  Peking.  I am  here  concerned  only 
with  their  importance  in  the  labour  market  of  the 
capital  of  India.  They  appear  rather  unexpectedly 
in  other  fields.  In  the  annual  race  for  the  Viceroy’s 
Cup  at  Calcutta,  which  is  the  Derby  of  Asia,  valu- 

II 


12  CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY 


able  horses  owned  by  Chinese  from  Burma  and  the 
Straits  Settlements  not  rarely  compete.  None  of 
them  have  ever  won  the  premier  event,  but  they 
have  carried  off  minor  honours. 

In  Rangoon  the  Chinese  merchant  controls  much 
of  the  inland  trade.  He  imports  pickled  tea  from 
the  Shan  States,  and  sells  the  Burman  the  pink  silk 
loonghi,  often  woven  in  China  and  dyed  in  Man- 
chester, which  is  the  national  wear.  He  competes 
seriously  in  the  rice  and  timber  trades,  and  has  more 
than  a hand  in  the  silver  and  jade  mines  on  the 
frontier.  He  is  a respected  and  considered,  if  not 
always  permanent,  citizen  of  the  British  Empire, 
and  when  asked  about  his  Emperor  in  Peking  has 
been  known  to  protest  with  warmth  that  he  has  no 
emperor  but  His  Majesty  King  Edward.  Matri- 
monially he  is  more  than  an  eligible  among  the 
Burmese,  whose  women  know  how  to  value  a 
husband  who  can  be  relied  upon  to  support  them. 

The  extraordinary  prosperity  which  has  followed 
British  rule  in  the  Straits  Settlements  would  have 
been  impossible  without  Chinese  industry  and  atten- 
tion to  detail,  to  supplement  English,  Scotch,  and 
Irish  enterprise  and  administrative  ability,  in  a 
climate  which  is  too  enervating  to  allow  white  men 
to  do  manual  work.  The  Federated  Malay  States, 
which  represent  an  annual  trade  of  thirteen  million 
sterling,  depend  for  their  revenue  upon  tin  ore,  for 
which  Chinese  are  the  principal  miners.  As  india- 
rubber  planters,  as  sugar  growers  and  as  general 
dealers  the  Chinese  fulfil  essential  functions. 


CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY  13 


There  is  no  more  favourable  centre  in  which 
to  observe  the  part  which  the  Chinese  is  capable 
of  playing  under  British  rule  than  Singapore, 
where  he  finds  what  he  probably  considers  the 
most  ideal  conditions  the  world  has  to  offer 
him. 

The  town  is  the  apex  of  a green  promontory 
which  runs  southwards  from  Siam  and  Burma,  so 
that  ships  bound  for  China  from  London  and 
Calcutta  must  sail  within  eighty  miles  of  the 
equator  to  round  the  furthest  headland.  The 
long  islands  of  Java  and  Sumatra  compel  vessels 
sailing  from  Madagascar  and  South  Africa  to 
take  the  same  route  as  those  from  northern  ports. 
Rozhdestvenski  s fleet,  trailing  eastwards  to  its  fate, 
passed  within  range  of  the  powerful  defence  batteries 
of  the  port.  The  officers  of  French  and  German 
men-of-war,  sailing  to  and  from  Saigon  and  Kiaochau, 
are  familiar  figures  in  the  luxurious  Singapore  Club  ; 
and  a bo  sun’s  whistle  on  the  bund  would  summon 
able-bodied  seamen  of  all  colours.  The  almost  daily 
showers,  which  the  grey  skies  of  the  tropics  vouch- 
safe to  the  settlement,  prevent  the  heat  from 
becoming  at  any  time  fierce.  A soft,  hot-house 
atmosphere  plays  through  the  rigging  of  a con- 
gregation of  steamers  which  can  be  matched  in  but 
six  other  ports  in  the  world,  since  the  place,  already 
the  gate  for  through  traffic  to  the  Far  East,  has 
now  become  the  principal  distributing  centre  for 
the  trade  of  the  Dutch  East  Indies  and  Northern 
Australia. 


14  CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY 


The  wide  wooden  wharves,  the  grey  stone  graving 
basins,  and  the  clanging  repairing  shops  of  the 
Tangong-Pagar  Docks,  the  luxurious  electric  tram 
service  in  the  city,  and  the  business-like  railway 
which  runs  to  Johore,  are  all  directed  by  Englishmen 
and  manned  by  Chinese.  The  broad  thoroughfares 
and  substantial  houses  compare  favourably  with 
those  of  the  biggest  Indian  cities.  Even  the 
poorest  quarters  have  an  air  of  comfort  which 
strikes  those  who  are  familiar  with  the  wretchedness 
of  Calcutta  bustees  and  Bombay  slums.  The  bulk 
of  the  quarter  of  a million  inhabitants  of  the  city 
are  Chinese.  Chinese  coolies,  decorated,  I cannot 
say  clothed,  with  blue  Eton  jackets  and  bathing 
drawers,  whisk  fragile  jinrickshaws  through  the 
crowded  traffic.  The  men  s brick-red  limbs  display 
proportions  that  Greek  sculptors  might  have  copied. 
Their  dish-cover  hats,  which  rise  and  fall  rhythmi- 
cally with  the  long,  easy  trot  at  which  the  vehicles 
are  propelled,  add  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the 
conveyance.  The  passengers  may  be  Europeans. 
More  often  they  are  impervious  Chinese  ladies  or 
stout  mandarin  folk ; for  the  jinrickshaw  maintains 
its  popularity  as  a means  of  locomotion  against  that 
packing-box  on  wheels,  the  Indian  cab.  Even  the 
electric  trams  have  failed  to  strike  any  fatal  blow  at 
the  business  of  the  jinrickshaw  coolies,  though  the 
latter  at  one  time  thought  themselves  so  seriously 
threatened  that  they  took  to  the  dangerous  expedient 
of  wedging  stones  into  the  rails — a form  of  humour 
which  was  not  deprived  of  popularity  until  some 


CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY  15 

severe  sentences  had  been  passed  in  the  local  police 
court. 

A group  of  chimney-stacks  on  one  side  of  the 
harbour  reminds  the  visitor  that  the  Straits  Settle- 
ments smelt  more  than  half  the  total  tin  ore 
produced  in  the  world.  Palatial  buildings  in  the 
business  quarter  are  eloquent  of  the  boom  which 
just  now  is  making  fortunes  for  both  Chinese  and 
British  india-rubber  planters  in  the  interior.  Cart- 
loads of  luscious  pineapples  block  the  lanes  outside 
the  city,  on  their  way  from  the  Chinese  market- 
garden  to  the  European  canning  factory.  Pros- 
perity beams  from  corpulent  Chinamen  and  smartly 
turned  out  sahibs.  Even  that  scantily  clad  problem 
of  the  country,  the  gentlemanly  Malay,  who  sees  no 
merit  in  work,  shares  in  the  general  well-being, 
since  the  demands  of  the  Chinese  community  for 
fish  provide  him  with  profitable  employment  which 
he  can  regard  as  sport. 

The  settlement  is  not  only  thriving  at  the  present, 
but  has  entered  upon  developments  which  must 
increase  its  importance  in  the  future.  More  than  a 
million  sterling,  from  the  current  revenue  of  the 
Government,  is  being  laid  out  in  improving  the 
already  splendid  harbour-works.  A site  has  been 
found  and  Chinese  labour  is  being  employed  to 
dredge  a graving-dock  capable  of  accommodating 
the  biggest  man-of-war  afloat.  Chinese  platelayers 
are  pushing  a metre-gauge  railway  northwards,  to 
connect  eventually  with  the  Burma  system.  Already 
it  links  Penang  with  Port  Swettenham  and  carries 


i6  CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY 


sightseers  from  Singapore  to  the  pseudo- Parisian 
palace  of  the  Rajah  of  Johore.  At  present  the 
narrow  arm  of  the  sea,  which  separates  the  island 
of  Singapore  from  the  mainland  of  Johore,  is 
crossed  only  by  a passenger  boat ; but  a ferry 
steamer  is  shortly  to  carry  the  train  bodily  across. 
A small  basin  is  to  be  cut  on  either  bank  as  a 
mooring  dock  ; and  there  will  soon  be  no  breaking 
of  bulk  in  the  conveyance  of  produce  from  the 
furthest  inland  plantation  to  the  port. 

The  Chinese,  through  whose  industry  all  this  has 
been  accomplished,  pay  their  own  way  backwards 
and  forwards  to  their  homes  about  Canton,  and  are 
both  thrifty  and  open-handed.  Indentured  Chinese 
labour  is  a factor  in  Singapore  ; but  it  is  brought  in 
by  the  Chinese  themselves.  The  British  adminis- 
tration provides  only  security  for  person  and  pro- 
perty, and  freedom  to  develop  the  rich  resources  of 
the  peninsula.  Friendly  give-and-take  between  the 
British  and  Chinese  communities  is  apparent  upon 
every  side.  Quarantine  is  strictly  enforced  against 
Hongkong  and  Canton,  by  British  doctors  who 
attribute  the  immunity  of  their  island  from  such 
diseases  as  plague  and  small-pox,  to  the  ten  days  of 
isolation  they  impose  upon  all  deck  passengers  who 
land  from  the  unclean  cities  of  the  Further  East. 
The  Chinese  submits  good-humouredly  to  what  he 
regards  as  a troublesome  British  fad.  His  sub- 
scription to  the  clock,  which  the  new  town  hall 
tower  has  been  built  to  conspicuously  lack,  will  be  as 
liberal  as  if  no  such  restriction  had  been  imposed. 


CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY  17 


The  European  puts  up  with  an  unsavoury  fish- 
market,  and  works  cheerfully  alongside  more  or  less 
unwashed  yellow  colleagues,  knowing  that  there  is 
a rich  harvest  in  tolerance.  The  Anglo-Indian 
visitor  notices  absence  of  noise  and  wrangling  in 
the  bazars.  The  jinrickshaw  coolie  accepts  his  legal 
fare  with  comparatively  little  grumbling.  A ship  is 
loaded  by  swarming  pig-tailed  dock-hands  at  the 
jetties,  with  scarcely  more  shouting  than  would  be 
involved  in  putting  the  luggage  of  a single  passenger 
upon  a cab  in  Calcutta.  The  Chinese  of  Singapore, 
though  obviously  Asiatic  in  his  limitations  as  well 
as  in  his  origin,  is  more  self-reliant  than  the  majority 
of  the  inhabitants  of  India.  In  theory  he  considers 
himself  the  white  man’s  equal,  though  in  practice  he 
bows  to  the  more  imperious  virility  of  the  West.  A 
dispute  amongst  the  Chinese  passengers,  who  fill 
the  decks  of  vessels  plying  between  Singapore  and 
Hongkong,  is  unusual ; but  when  it  occurs  it  is 
sometimes  lively,  an  affronted  Chinaman  not  being 
particular  as  to  either  instrument  or  method  so  long 
as  retaliation  be  swift  and  efficacious.  Such  a 
thing  as  a serious  disturbance  is  almost  unknown, 
the  respect  commanded  by  British  ship’s  officers 
being  such  that  order  can  be  restored  with  ease  in 
all  ordinary  quarrels  among  coolies. 

The  success  of  the  combination  of  the  two  races 
can  only  be  described  as  phenomenal.  A country 
already  containing  half  a million  people,  doing  a 
trade  that  attracts  ten  million  tons  of  shipping 
annually,  and  yielding  a Government  revenue  of 


iS  CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY 


twenty  million  dollars,  is  being  developed  at  a rate 
that  promises  enormous  advance  in  the  immediate 
future  upon  these  already  remarkable  figures.  The 
situation  has  a significance  which  makes  it  worth 
considering  in  relation  to  the  kind  of  progress  the 
Chinese  have  hitherto  been  able  to  make,  with 
infinitely  greater  possibilities,  in  their  own  country. 
The  deduction  is  obvious  in  Singapore,  as  in 
Calcutta,  Rangoon,  Penang,  and  Ceylon,  that  the 
efficiency  as  an  industrial  unit  of  which  the  Chinese 
is  capable  under  European  rule  is  considerably 
greater  than  that  which  he  is  likely  to  attain  under 
his  own  mandarins.  But  it  is  too  soon  for 
deductions. 

Twelve  lead  coffins  have  been  safely  stowed 
aboard,  for  no  Singapore  Chinaman  will  trust  him- 
self to  a ship  that  does  not  undertake  to  carry  him 
dead,  as  well  as  alive,  into  port.  A dozen  is  a good 
many  ; but  it  is  well  to  be  on  the  safe  side,  since 
even  one  deceased  Chinaman  in  excess  of  the 
accommodation  provided  may  be  embarrassing  in 
the  tropics.  The  volume  of  wire-stringed  lute- 
twanging  that  finds  its  way  up  from  the  hold  shows 
there  is  a full  cargo  of  prosperous  gentry  who  are 
going  to  finish  their  days  in  Kwangtung,  as  the 
Anglo-Indian  seeks  Devonshire,  or  the  South 
African  Park  Lane.  Singapore  and  its  empty 
clock-tower  have  dwindled  into  daisies  and  dande- 
lions in  the  hedge  of  a green  field  of  harbour.  In 
front  the  headlands  of  the  wide  gate  into  the  China 


YKLI.OW  COLl,KA(;UKS 


THE  MAINLAND  OF  JOHOKE 


CHINESE  IN  BRITISH  TERRITORY  19 


Sea  stand  open  to  us  as  they  stood  to  Marco  Polo. 
There  are  no  explorers  among  us  ; their  day  is 
over.  They  sailed  to  China  ; we  sail  with  China  on 
board.  To  the  humbler  observer  there  is  all  the 
difference  of  five  hundred  years. 


CHAPTER  III 

THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 

ERTAIN  things  are  going  on  in  Canton 


which  have  direct  bearing  upon  the  change 
that  is  coming  over  the  outlook  in  China.  A dozen 
miles  from  the  clamorous  city,  in  the  midst  of  the 
swamps  of  rice  cultivators  and  fishermen,  may  be 
descried  an  institution  which  means  much  and  is 
typical  of  a great  deal  more.  On  the  left,  as  the 
steamer  strains  against  the  flood  of  the  Canton 
river,  emerges  what  looks  at  first  like  a mass  of  red 
and  white  poppies  upon  the  brown  mud  bank.  The 
poppy-heads  are  tied  to  withered  sticks.  They  grow, 
as  the  steamer  approaches,  into  Chinese  banners  on 
the  masts  of  a fleet  of  wooden  guard-boats  : the 
hulls  do  not  become  visible  at  once,  since  they  are 
almost  exactly  the  same  colour  as  the  mud  upon 
which  they  have  been  beached.  These  guard-boats 
are  propelled  by  sails  stiffened  like  gigantic  Japanese 
fans,  with  frequent  ribs  of  split  bamboo.  They  can 
run  down  a river  pirate  junk,  and  might  even  pour 
a volley  of  buckshot  upon  its  crew  ; but  they  belong 
to  the  China  which  has  already  passed  away.  Out 


21 


22 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


in  the  dun-coloured  stream,  where  the  water  from 
the  far  hills  of  Yunnan  goes  swirling  down  to  the 
China  Sea,  a couple  of  lemon-coloured  torpedo- 
boats  sulk  in  the  grey  middaylight  of  a Kwangtung 
fog.  These  torpedo-boats,  like  the  badly-kept  Krupp 
guns  of  the  forts  at  the  river  mouth,  belong  to  the 
formidable  but  still  inefficient  China  of  to-day. 

Upon  the  shore  beyond  the  poppy-bed,  strolling 
about  after  a lecture  given  by  smart  Japanese 
officers,  are  a number  of  well  turned  out  Chinese 
cadets  in  black  uniforms,  with  queues  curled  up  inside 
their  forage-caps.  A boatload  came  aboard  the 
steamer,  for  it  was  the  eve  of  the  Ching-Ming 
festival  of  ancestors,  and  great  - grand  - parents’ 
graves,  upon  the  hillsides  further  up  the  river,  must 
be  honourably  decorated,  though  descendants  may 
be  engaged  upon  modern  tactics  and  strategy  that 
may  change  the  map  of  Asia.  The  lads  are  inde- 
pendent little  fellows,  who  are  confident  that  they 
will  be  the  Kurokis  and  the  Togos  of  the  China  of 
to-morrow.  I met  nobody  who  could  tell  me  how 
many  of  them  there  are  ; but  the  Wampu  training 
college  by  the  poppy-bed  is  evidently  extensive ; 
and  it  is  but  one  of  many  of  its  kind  in  different 
parts  of  the  country.  The  training  colleges  are 
connected  with  the  modern  arsenals,  rifle  factories, 
and  gun  foundries  which  Chinese  viceroys  are 
industriously  erecting.  They  are  turning  out 
officers  as  different  from  the  mandarins  of  the 
past  as  the  modern  mauser  rifles  and  cartridges, 
which  the  factories  are  producing  by  the  hundred 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


23 


thousand  and  the  million,  are  different  from  the 
ancient  blunderbusses  with  which  the  Chinese 
forces  of  yesterday  were  armed. 

The  guards  of  the  pagoda  gates  in  Canton  are 
still  the  effete  mannikins  of  the  past.  They  have 
antiquated  rifles,  which  they  handed  me  readily 
to  examine  as  I passed  on  a tourist  round  of  the 
sights.  The  barrels  were  clean,  but  the  cartridge 
chambers  were  empty,  and  no  ammunition  could 
be  found  to  show  me.  The  weapons  have  no 
military  significance,  though  they  are  about  as 
useful  as  most  of  those  with  which  the  corre- 
sponding police  in  India  are  provided,  and  have 
bayonets  which  might  be  of  service  in  the  com- 
paratively peaceful  duty  of  controlling  a Chinese 
crowd. 

The  ancient  battle-axes  and  muskets  of  a yet 
older  belligerence  are  also  in  use.  They  are  to  be 
seen  at  the  iron  gates,  which  separate  the  spacious 
foreigners’  settlement  from  the  herded  Chinese  city, 
where  policemen  in  scarlet  stomachers  and  tarpaulin 
hats  guard  night  and  day,  as  they  have  guarded  for 
decades,  the  unwelcome  strangers  from  the  West, 
who  are  allowed  to  do  their  present  business  freely, 
because  the  armament  which  is  proceeding  is 
not  yet  sufficient  to  enable  China  effectively  to 
discourage  them. 

Evidence  of  this  feeling  was  to  be  seen  in  every 
local  newspaper,  oddly  reminiscent  of  the  spirit  and 
phrasing  of  the  rampant  Bengali  press  in  Calcutta. 
Extracts  published  in  the  Anglo-Chinese  papers  of 


24 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


the  south,  during  my  stay  in  Canton,  gave  promi- 
nence to  allegations  centreing  round  three  particular 
Chinese  viceroys.  The  Chinese  public  was  naively 
told  that  Viceroy  Yuan-Shih-Kai  was  moving  in 
connection  with  preparations  for  the  establishment 
of  constitutional  government  in  Peking,  and  that 
he  had  selected  representatives  to  study  the  manu- 
facture of  arms  in  Europe.  Viceroy  Chan-Chi- 
Tung  was  described,  in  less  masterful  language,  as 
asking  for  and  obtaining  the  permission  of  the 
throne  to  establish  an  exclusively  Chinese  railway 
engineering  school  at  Wuchang.  Viceroy  Shum 
Huen  himself  published  the  text  of  a long  resolution 
in  which  he  made  over  the  control  of  the  whole 
of  the  immensely  important  railways  about  Canton 
to  a company  composed  of  Chinese  gentry  and 
merchants.  Other  extracts  gave  the  Chinese 
public  to  understand  that  the  grip  of  the  foreigner 
upon  the  country  was  being  everywhere  loosened, 
that  the  fortifications  upon  the  Yangtse  were  to  be 
increased ; and  that  fresh  enterprise  for  the  future, 
and  especially  fresh  enterprise  in  railways,  was  to 
be  kept  entirely  in  Chinese  hands.  There  is  no 
doubt  about  the  energy  with  which  this  paper 
agitation  is  being  carried  on.  The  movement  has 
a patriotic  basis ; but  its  more  immediate  motive 
power  appears  to  lie  in  a firm  belief,  upon  the  part 
of  the  mandarins,  that  railway  enterprise  in  China 
will  be  fabulously  profitable,  and  that  its  spoils  must 
not  be  allowed  to  pass  into  pockets  other  than  their 
own. 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


25 


Rumour  and  speculation  are  predominant,  but 
there  is  no  lack  of  accomplished  fact.  It  was 
unnecessary  to  go  further  than  the  railways  at  the 
gates  of  Canton  to  observe  an  example,  in  the  shape 
of  an  immensely  important  undertaking  begun  by 
Europeans  and  now  in  the  hands  of  Chinese. 

I give  the  particulars  as  I gleaned  them  from 
men  upon  the  spot,  some  told  in  the  little  yellow 
American  cars  that  are  plying  upon  the  Canton- 
Fatshan-Samshui  line,  others  in  Canton  and  Hong- 
kong offices.  The  Canton-Samshui  railway  was 
built  by  the  American-China  Development  Com- 
pany, who  were  the  original  holders  of  a concession 
from  the  Chinese  Government  for  the  much-dis- 
cussed grand  trunk  railway  from  Canton  to 
Hankow.  The  section  that  has  been  constructed 
is  a branch  about  thirty  miles  long.  It  carries 
passengers  backwards  and  forwards  across  the  delta 
between  Canton  and  Samshui,  the  latter  place  being 
a port  upon  the  main  stream,  whereas  Canton  is 
upon  a tributary.  Any  day  affords  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  enormous  demand  which  is  greeting 
the  introduction  of  this  still  novel  facility  from  the 
West.  The  river  feeds  the  rail.  On  the  day  of  my 
visit  I noted  a big,  flat-bottomed  steamboat,  with 
four  immense  open  decks,  towering  one  above 
another,  each  loaded  with  a black  mass  of  Chinese 
humanity,  which  was  forcing  her  way  up  the  river 
through  an  almost  solid  collection  of  the  rickety 
sampan  boats  plying  for  hire  about  the  port.  The 
flat  lurched  heavily  in  spite  of  her  enormous  beam. 


26 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


when  a partial  movement  to  see  the  approaching 
shore  took  place  on  board,  and  might  have  capsized 
with  less  stolidly  fatalistic  passengers,  who  would 
have  made  a more  general  rush. 

Other  vessels,  with  two  and  three  equally  over- 
crowded decks,  were  arriving  from  both  up  and 
down  stream  ; and  sampans  besieged  them  all.  The 
ferry-women  touting  for  fares  gabbled  like  ten 
thousand  geese.  The  city  drowsed  upon  one  bank, 
the  electric  lights  barely  extinguished  in  its  gambling 
dens,  and  wrapped  us  in  the  odour  which  emerges 
from  every  gathering  of  Chinese  dwellings — an 
odour  suggestive  of  freshly  lacquered  coffins,  fried 
grease,  and  badly  constructed  drains.  Upon  the 
other  bank  stood  the  iron  sheds  of  the  railway 
station,  into  which  broad  streams  of  people  were 
pouring  from  the  boats.  Industrious  little  trains 
trotted  up  one  after  another  and  carried  off  the 
contents  of  passenger  pens,  which  were  refilled 
as  fast  as  the  people  vacated  them  to  get  into  the 
carriages.  The  process  continued  until  my  own 
steamer  left,  and  is  presumably  going  on  now.  I 
was  not  surprised  to  hear  that  the  railway  was 
taking  an  annual  thirty  per  cent,  upon  its  capital 
cost,  although  it  confined  itself  to  the  passenger 
traffic,  and  did  not  attempt  to  cope  with  goods. 

The  permanent  way  is  on  the  standard  four-feet 
eight-inches  gauge,  and  is  laid  with  substantial 
seventy-five  pound  rails.  The  track  is  double  and 
stone-ballasted  for  a dozen  miles  to  Fatshan,  after 
which  it  is  single  and  ballasted  only  with  sand. 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


27 


The  section  upon  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  of 
what  Continental  optimists  once  hoped  would  become 
the  connecting  link  in  an  all-Gallic  railway,  through 
the  very  centre  of  China,  to  join  Annam  with  the 
Siberian  system,  lies  neglected  and  unused.  The 
Samshui  branch  points  southwards  towards  French 
territory.  The  northern  embankment  beckons 
towards  Hankow  ; but  that  is  all  that  has  yet  been 
accomplished.  The  Russo- J apanese  war  has  changed 
the  ownership  of  the  Manchurian  connection.  The 
Hankow- Peking  portion  alone  remains  as  it  was 
originally  designed. 

The  Samshui  branch  is  worked  by  a Chinese 
staff,  presided  over  by  two  capable  Americans,  who 
are  in  the  service  of  the  Chinese  Government. 
Negotiations  are  going  on  for  the  construction,  as  a 
purely  Chinese  undertaking,  of  the  Canton- Hankow 
line  ; and  the  Viceroy  of  the  Cantonese  province 
has  been  endeavouring  to  get  the  work  begun.  He 
appears  to  have  failed  to  raise  the  necessary  money 
direct,  so  has  handed  over  the  whole  concern  to  an 
association  which  calls  itself  the  General  Chamber 
of  Commerce  of  China  Merchants.  The  official 
proclamation  announcing  the  transfer  indicates 
nine  large  charitable  institutions  and  seventy- 
two  guilds  ” to  hold  the  property,  as  a temporary 
measure,  while  the  China  Merchants  are  arranging 
to  increase  the  capital  of  the  two  million  dollars  they 
have  actually  collected,  to  the  twenty  million  re- 
quired to  finance  the  building  of  the  line  to  Hankow. 
The  undertaking  is  capable  of  paying  exceedingly 


28 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


handsome  interest  on  the  capital  that  would  be 
required  if  the  work  were  under  economical 
European  management.  I heard  in  Hongkong 
that  the  China  Merchants  can  command  the  money 
that  is  wanted.  It  has  now  to  be  seen  to  what 
extent  the  endeavour  to  keep  the  company  exclu- 
sively Chinese  will  succeed,  and  whether,  in  that 
case,  construction  will  proceed  as  it  should. 

In  the  meantime,  yet  another  important  railway 
project,  and  this  time  a British  one,  has  come  into 
existence — the  Hongkong-Canton  Railway.  This 
line  is  to  connect  the  mainland  side  of  the  Hong- 
kong harbour  with  Canton.  The  country  to  be 
traversed  is  easy  ; and  the  linking  up  of  a British 
port,  which  now  claims  to  handle  more  shipping 
than  London,  with  the  biggest  Chinese  city  in  the 
world,  is  certain  to  be  profitable.  The  permanent 
way  for  the  section  through  British  territory,  about 
thirty  miles  long,  has  been  aligned  by  the  British 
Administration  of  Hongkong  under  Sir  Matthew 
Nathan.  The  portion  through  Chinese  territory, 
which  is  not  so  very  much  longer,  is  to  be  built 
by  Chinese  agency  when  and  if  the  money  is  forth- 
coming. A beginning  has  been  made  upon  the 
British  side  ; and  a track,  which  now  serves  as  a 
road,  has  been  laid  out  for  a few  miles  from  the  sea. 
Confident  announcements  have  lately  been  published 
that  the  indigenous  section  is  arranged  for  ; but  the 
traveller  is  not  long  in  China  before  he  learns  to 
believe  only  in  what  he  sees,  and  no  beginning  had 
been  made  when  I was  upon  the  spot. 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


29 


The  city  of  Canton  is  the  focus  of  the  life  of 
Southern  China.  The  Portuguese  recognised  this 
centuries  ago  when  they  built,  at  the  mouth  of  its 
shallow  river,  their  harbour  of  Macao,  which  pros- 
pered exceedingly  until  ocean-going  ships  outgrew 
the  depth  of  its  anchorage  and  transferred  their 
patronage  to  its  successful  British  rival,  Hongkong, 
leaving  Macao  to  decay  into  a refuge  for  insolvent 
debtors  and  a nest  of  gambling-houses.  Hongkong 
may  justify  all  its  pretensions,  but  its  prosperity  is 
dependent  upon  the  fact  that  it  possesses  the 
nearest  deep-water  harbour  to  Canton,  and  is  the 
point  where  Cantonese  river  craft  transfer  their 
produce  to  modern  liners. 

The  Cantonese  are  agitators  as  well  as  traders, 
and  nurse  many  schemes  besides  that  of  doing 
without  the  European.  There  is  no  doubt  that  a 
movement  has  long  flourished  amongst  them, 
directed  to  no  less  a purpose  than  the  overthrow 
of  the  present  dynasty  and  the  restoration  of  pure 
Chinese  rule.  This  is  aimed  in  part  against  Yuan- 
Shih-Kai,  but  is  also  a manifestation  of  the  feeling 
which  is  at  the  root  of  the  anti-foreign  movement 
that  affects  the  European.  To  this  sentiment  the 
Manchu  is  only  less  an  outsider  than  the  English- 
man. The  Cantonese  is  the  same  intractable  to-day 
that  he  has  been  for  ages.  He  hates  to  be  interfered 
with  even  by  a race  so  long  and  so  closely  related 
to  him  as  are  his  fellow-Mongolians  from  further 
north.  He  is  the  Bengali  of  China,  quicker  witted 
than  the  more  manly  races  of  the  northern  provinces, 


30 


THE  SITUATION  IN  CANTON 


but  also  less  to  be  relied  upon.  Intrigue  and 
finesse,  not  swords  or  guns,  are  his  national  weapons 
for  both  offence  and  defence.  He  will  leave  any 
physical  fighting  that  may  have  to  be  done  to  his 
countrymen  of  the  north,  though  he  will  figure  as 
prominently,  when  it  comes  to  a division  of  the 
spoil  that  may  be  won,  as  if  he  had  taken  his  full 
share  of  hardship  and  danger.  When  the  Peking 
Government  was  at  war  with  Japan,  the  Cantonese 
looked  on  while  the  armies  of  Chihli  marched  against 
the  invading  forces  of  the  Mikado.  Nevertheless, 
when  Yuan-Shih-Kai  was  setting  to  work  after 
peace  had  been  restored  to  lay  the  foundation  of 
that  modernising  movement  which  makes  such 
lavish  promises  for  the  future,  his  unpopularity  in 
South  China  did  not  prevent  him  from  turning  to 
Canton  for  some  of  his  best-qualified  and  best-paid 
lieutenants. 

The  military  academy  and  torpedo-boats  outside 
Canton  may  be  less  important,  as  items  in  the 
military  preparations  of  China,  than  corresponding 
arrangements  at  such  a place  as  Tientsin.  The 
southern  provinces  are  no  doubt  rather  noisy  and 
truculent  than  possessed  of  present  fighting  effi- 
ciency ; but  they  are  animated  by  as  strong  a 
determination  as  any  of  their  fellows  to  become 
possessed  of  the  power  of  offence  which  modern 
armaments  afford ; and  in  the  meantime,  like 
Bengal,  they  are  not  less  conspicuous  for  being 
more  articulate. 


CHAPTER  IV 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT  IN  MIDDLE  CHINA 
0 

OBODY  can  be  many  days  in  Shanghai 


without  hearing  rumours  of  vaguely  antici- 
pated trouble.  The  European  exploring  the  native 
city  may  walk  from  one  dark  end  of  the  harrow 
alleys  to  the  other,  through  groves  of  illuminated 
name-boards,  armies  of  chair-coolies,  and  hordes 
of  pariahs,  without  more  embarrassment  than  is 
occasioned  by  hurrying  masses  of  busy  humanity 
intent  solely  upon  their  own  affairs.  Coolies, 
laden  with  hides,  kerosine  oil-tins,  or  yet  more 
unsavoury  burdens,  hustle  their  way  through  the 
crowd  with  warning  shouts  that  are  as  strident 
and  aggressive  when  a white  man  is  in  the  way 
as  when  only  their  own  countryfolk  have  to  be 
thrust  against  the  wall.  Jinrickshaw  runners,  when 
inadvertently  overpaid,  do  not  hesitate  to  add  a 
detaining  hand  to  arguments  to  prove  they 
should  receive  yet  more.  London  cab-drivers  and 
Marseilles  luggage-porters  no  doubt  behave  to 
the  stranger,  under  corresponding  circumstances, 
in  ways  that  are  at  least  as  offensive  ; but  better 
manners  are  so  largely  the  rule  to  the  east  of  Suez, 


32 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


that  European  Shanghai  may  well  suspect  what 
looks  like  a change  for  the  worse.  The  revolver, 
unusual  in  China,  has  been  added  to  the  equip- 
ment of  some  of  the  men  employed  in  connection 
with  the  electric  tramway  that  is  to  be  laid  down  in 
the  Shanghai  streets,  in  consequence  of  persistent 
stories  that  an  attempt  will  be  made  to  interfere 
with  construction. 

Signs  of  racial  friction  are  much  less  marked 
than  was  the  case  in  Calcutta  at  the  time  of  the 
anti-partition  agitation ; but  their  existence  is  re- 
cognised by  merchants  whose  long  experience  of 
China  excludes  the  supposition  that  there  is  any 
mistake.  The  jetties,  factories,  and  docks  of  the 
city  have  never  been  more  active.  Money  is 
being  made  and  business  transacted  upon  a scale 
that  fully  maintains  the  claim  of  Shanghai  to  be 
considered  the  Manchester  of  the  Far  East.  On 
the  splendid  wharves  and  jetties  that  astonish  the 
visitor  by  their  extent  and  activity,  and  in  the 
spacious  streets  and  palatial  offices  that  stand  for 
a prosperity  which  enriches  a million  Chinese  in- 
habitants, exists  nevertheless  a feeling  of  insecurity 
which  is  not  the  less  real  because  it  is  indefinite, 
nor  lacking  in  significance  because  there  are  those 
who  deny  the  reasonableness  of  the  grounds  on 
which  it  is  based. 

I found  the  possibility  of  another  rising  common 
talk  at  every  dinner-table.  “Fve  had  to  hide,  before 
now,  for  two  days  in  a cellar  to  escape  a riot,  and 
I see  signs  of  another  coming,”  was  said  to  me 


THE  JETTIES,  FACTORIES  AND  DOCKS  OF  THE  CITY  HAVE  NEVER  BEEN  MORE  ACTIVE 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


33 


by  the  head  of  an  important  concern  who  thought 
the  general  outlook  threatening.  The  traveller 
might  have  heard  similar  prophecies  any  time 
within  the  last  fifteen  years  in  India,  where  half 
a century  of  peace  may  have  made  the  European 
imaginative.  But  people  who  have  lived  in  China 
for  ten  years  are  usually  experts  in  riots,  of  one 
dimension  or  another,  and  are  better  acquainted, 
like  my  friend,  with  the  indications. 

I have  endeavoured  to  ascertain  how  this  feeling 
has  arisen  in  so  far  as  it  is  new  ; and  I gather  that 
several  incidents  have  been  contributing  causes. 
First  and  foremost  is  the  Shanghai  riot  of 
December,  1905.  This  was  a very  small  affair 
of  itself.  A mob  collected ; a Sikh  policeman 
was  rough-handled  and  killed  ; a few  Europeans 
were  damaged  and  some  shops  were  looted.  The 
streets  were  cleared  by  bluejackets  and  volunteers ; 
a few  volleys  were  fired,  a score  of  rioters  were 
wounded,  and  the  thing  was  over.  The  trouble 
arose  from  an  inter-racial  dispute  in  which  the 
Chinese  took  the  side  of  their  own  officials.  The 
widow  of  an  unimportant  up-country  mandarin 
arrived  in  the  settlement  with  a number  of  slave- 
girls,  and  was  arrested  by  the  European  authorities 
on  the  charge  of  having  kidnapped  her  companions. 
The  Chinese  officials  claimed  that  their  own  jail, 
and  not  the  settlement  jail,  was  the  proper  place 
for  her  incarceration.  The  native  newspapers 
published  exaggerated  stories  directed  to  showing 
that  the  Europeans  were  encroaching  upon  Chinese 


34 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


prerogatives.  Although  the  question  was  entirely 
technical,  race  feeling  was  aroused  ; and  the  matter 
was  complicated  by  a natural  impression  amongst 
the  Europeans  that  the  Chinese  officials  were 
egging  it  on.  It  is  alleged  that  the  bringing  of 
the  roughs  who  made  the  disturbance  into  the 
settlement  was  connived  at,  that  the  Chinese  troops 
and  police  were  not  used  as  they  should  have 
been  to  suppress  the  trouble,  and  that  sufficiently 
prompt  and  vigorous  measures  were  not  subse- 
quently adopted  to  arrest  the  ringleaders. 

The  Taotai,  or  Chinese  Governor  of  Shanghai, 
was  especially  blamed,  and  complaint  was  so  in- 
sistent that  he  was  eventually  removed  from  his 
office  by  the  Peking  Government,  as  a concession 
to  the  Europeans.  Immediately  afterwards,  how- 
ever, he  was  given  the  signal  honour  of  promotion 
to  the  Governorship  of  Peking,  which  produced  the 
impression  that  his  sympathy  with  the  rioters  was 
shared  by  the  supreme  authority  in  the  country. 
The  subsequent  disturbance  at  Nanchang,  of  which 
I shall  have  more  to  say  hereafter,  where  a number 
of  missionaries  were  murdered  by  a Chinese  mob, 
added  to  the  tension  of  the  situation.  Rumours  of 
large  fresh  importations  of  modern  weapons  and 
ammunition  upon  the  part  of  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment, and  undeniable  activity  in  the  arsenals  and 
cantonments  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  are  ^ 
pointed  to  as  further  evidence  of  the  existence  of  a i 
definite  movement  hostile  to  the  foreign  element  in  ' 
China.  » 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


35 


Every  kind  of  exaggeration  has  resulted  from 
this  state  of  affairs.  I heard  of  Europeans  who 
had  packed  up  their  possessions  in  order  to 
facilitate  escape  when  the  rising  should  begin.  The 
more  phlegmatic  looked  upon  disturbances  only  as 
a possible  and  not  as  an  unavoidable  contingency. 
The  British  official  view  in  Shanghai  was  also  re- 
assuring ; though  the  fact  could  not  be  got  over 
that  negotiations  with  the  Chinese  Government 
were  at  a standstill  in  connection  with  most  of  the 
pending  concessions  to  Europeans  for  railways  and 
other  commercial  enterprises.  It  must  be  added 
that  I met  both  Englishmen  and  Americans,  espe- 
cially amongst  the  missionaries,  whose  views  are 
entitled  to  weight  on  account  of  their  close  asso- 
ciation with  the  Chinese,  who  did  not  consider  that 
the  general  attitude  of  the  people  had  become  more 
hostile  of  late.  One  of  them,  indeed,  a missionary 
of  experience,  whom  I interviewed  in  the  village  in 
which  he  is  working  within  a hundred  miles  of 
Nanchang,  assured  me  that  the  only  alteration  he 
had  observed  was  the  very  marked  one  which  took 
place  after  the  relief  of  the  Legations  in  1900,  when 
some  respect  for  foreigners  was  introduced  for  the 
first  time  in  his  experience.  He  maintained  that 
there  had  been  since  then  no  change  for  the  worse. 
This  missionary  was  able  to  speak  with  candour  of 
the  objectionable  as  well  as  of  the  admirable 
qualities  of  the  Chinese.  He  is  one  of  the  very 
few  white  men  in  the  country  possessed  of  any 
profound  knowledge  of  their  extraordinarily  difficult 


36  THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


language,  and  I found  scholars  in  Shanghai  who 
confirmed  what  he  told  me.  Their  view  was  that 
the  alarm  is  confined  to  those  engaged  in  business, 
who  are  not,  as  a rule,  acquainted  with  Chinese, 
the  majority  of  the  British  merchants  in  Shanghai 
being  contented,  they  alleged,  to  work  through 
compradors,  and  being  thus  in  a position  to  obtain 
their  information  only  at  second-hand.  They  ex- 
plained the  fact  that  roughs  were  allowed  to  enter 
Shanghai  on  the  occasion  of  the  riot,  by  the  some- 
what unconvincing  statement  that  the  city  has  an 
open  frontage  five  miles  long  which  cannot  be 
guarded  easily.  The  extent  of  the  area  concerned 
and  the  imperfection  of  the  Chinese  official  organi- 
sation were  cited  in  answer  to  the  charge  of  supine- 
ness in  the  matter  of  suppressing  the  disturbance 
and  arresting  the  ringleaders. 

The  nature  of  the  calling  of  the  missionary 
inclines  him  to  view  his  relations  with  the  people 
in  a hopeful  spirit,  here  as  elsewhere.  Such  hope- 
fulness may  sometimes  err  on  the  side  of  charity, 
and  should  not  fail  to  be  discounted  to  that  extent. 
A reply  given  by  the  Taotai  of  Shanghai,  when 
he  was  approached  by  the  United  States  Consular 
authorities  with  a view  to  inducing  him  to  prohibit 
the  boycott  of  American  goods  in  Middle  China, 
throws  a good  deal  of  light  upon  the  situation.  It 
was  pointed  out  to  him  that  Yuan-Shih-Kai  had 
stopped  the  boycott  movement  in  Peking  by  the 
simple  expedient  of  issuing  an  official  proclamation 
aeainst  it.  His  answer  was  to  the  effect  that  what 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


37 


was  practicable  in  the  north  was  utterly  impossible 
in  Middle  China. 

“The  people  of  Shanghai,”  he  said,  “are  no 
longer  subservient  to  authority.  They  have  learnt 
from  the  foreigner  to  think  and  to  act  for  them- 
selves. They  have  become  independent,  and  guard 
so  jealously  free  liberty  to  buy  or  to  refuse  to  buy 
from  whom  they  will,  that  any  attempt  upon  my  part 
to  interfere  in  the  matter  would  have  exactly  the 
opposite  effect  to  what  is  intended.  It  would  itself 
create  further  disturbance  and  set  the  people  more 
strongly  than  before  upon  the  course  they  have 
determined  to  adopt.” 

This  attitude  upon  the  part  of  the  Chinese  official 
is  characteristic,  and  it  accounts  for  a very  great 
deal.  British  merchants  read  into  it  that  the 
Chinese  officials  are  actively  hostile.  Apologists 
consider  that  they  are  well-meaning  but  helpless. 
With  regard  to  the  promotion  of  the  Taotai  after 
the  riot,  I can  only  report  the  explanation  I found 
current.  The  conservatism  of  China  is  a proverb. 
Although  Shanghai  is  one  of  the  biggest  and  most 
prosperous  cities  in  China,  it  is  only  sixty  years  old. 
Its  Taotai  is  therefore  a mere  magistrate,  subor- 
dinate to  the  Viceroy  of  ancient  Nanking,  important 
only  in  decay.  Under  ordinary  circumstances,  pro- 
motion from  the  Shanghai  Taotaiship  to  the  gover- 
norship of  Peking  would  merit  the  interpretation 
which  members  of  the  mercantile  community  have 
placed  upon  it  ; but  in  this  particular  case  the  cir- 
cumstances were  special.  The  Taotai  of  the 


38  THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


moment  was  related  by  marriage  to  several  high 
officials  at  Peking,  including  Yuan-Shih-Kai  him- 
self. Some  months  prior  to  the  riot  he  had  been 
given  the  honorary  title  of  Provincial  Treasurer, 
which  qualified  him  to  look  for  elevation  to  a 
governorship.  The  outcry  raised  against  him  by 
the  foreign  element  is  sufficient  to  account  for  a 
not  necessarily  premeditated  movement  upon  the 
part  of  his  own  people  in  his  favour.  His  selection 
for  the  governorship  of  Peking  was  the  outcome  of 
such  movement.  These  explanations  leave  un- 
touched the  fact  that  though  inter-racial  relations 
may  or  may  not  be  worse,  they  are  undeniably  bad. 
The  official  concerned  may  not  impossibly  play  a 
more  prominent  part  in  the  future  than  in  the 
past.  His  own  estimate  of  himself,  given  to  a 
distinguished  American  missionary  in  Shanghai 
some  time  prior  to  the  riot,  may  be  quoted.  “ I 
am  one,”  he  said,  “ who  can  always  be  led  easily 
but  never  driven.”  The  Shanghai  merchants  may 
have  failed  to  discern  this  feature  of  his  character. 

The  armament  question  in  Shanghai  is  less  difficult 
to  understand,  as  both  the  city  itself  and  the  lower 
reaches  of  the  Yangtse  river  afford  abundant  evidence 
of  what  is  going  on.  By  the  courtesy  of  the  officials 
I was  permitted  to  go  over  the  Kiang-Nan 
arsenal  and  gun  factory,  which  stands  upon  the 
river  bank  three  miles  above  the  city  of  Shanghai. 
Here  I found  the  manufacture  of  1888  pattern 
mauser  rifles,  of  about  *302  bore,  in  full  operation. 
The  plant  is  complete  though  not  very  modern,  and 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


39 


is  working  up  to  its  full  capacity.  Some  three 
hundred  Chinese  workmen  are  employed,  and  the 
out-turn  is  from  twelve  to  thirteen  finished  rifles 
daily,  the  total  number  made  in  a month  being 
about  three  hundred.  To  arm  a hundred  thousand 
men  from  this  factory  would  thus  take  a quarter  of 
a century ; but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
works  are  but  one  out  of  many  sources  of  supply. 
The  rifles  are  rough  but  serviceable,  and  are  claimed 
to  have  an  average  deviation  of  not  more  than  about 
three  feet  at  five  hundred  yards’  range.  The  barrels 
are  turned  upon  the  lathe,  and  the  details  of 
mechanism  are  cut  out  by  machines,  each  devoted 
to  some  one  part.  The  stocks  are  shaped  mechani- 
cally, from  yellow  wood  imported  from  Korea.  All 
the  machines  are  driven  by  steam  power.  The 
steel  is  smelted  upon  the  premises,  the  ingredients 
being  scrap-iron  purchased  locally  and  hematite  ore 
imported  from  the  Hupeh  province.  The  furnaces 
comprise  two  up-to-date  installations  of  the  Siemens 
open-hearth  pattern,  one  being  of  fifteen  tons’ 
capacity  and  the  other  of  three  tons.  There  are 
also  two  air-blast  furnaces,  one  of  five  tons’  capacity 
and  the  other  somewhat  smaller,  which  are  used  for 
cast-iron  work.  The  plant  includes  steam-driven 
rolling-mills  for  both  steel  bars  and  sheets,  also 
hydraulic  steel-pressing  plant,  lathes,  planing,  boring, 
cutting,  and  rifling  machinery  big  enough  to  admit 
of  the  handling  of  guns  up  to  twelve-inch  calibre. 
I saw  in  the  shops  two  9*2  guns,  two  six-inch  guns, 
and  one  47  gun  of  modern  design  with  Armstrong 


40 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


pattern  breech  action,  which  I was  told  had  been 
built  upon  the  premises  from  rough  castings  im- 
ported from  Europe.  A disappearing  carriage  for 
one  of  the  9*2  guns  was  being  made  in  the 
shops,  but  I saw  no  big  guns  actually  under 
manufacture. 

A beautiful  naval  twelve-pounder  with  Armstrong 
breech  action,  a couple  of  eleven-pounder  mountain 
guns,  and  one  twelve-pounder  field  gun  with  Nor- 
denfeldt  breech-blocks  were  standing  ready  for 
delivery,  also  a twelve-pounder  field  gun  on  low 
carriage  with  Japanese-pattern  recoil  fork  attached 
to  the  wheels.  A couple  of  pompoms,  two  9*2  guns, 
and  several  six-inch  guns  were  also  upon  the  pre- 
mises for  repair,  but  these  were  said  to  have  been 
imported.  They,  were  from  a Chinese  cruiser  which 
had  run  aground  upon  the  coast.  The  guns  appeared 
to  be  in  excellent  order;  the  barrels  were  absolutely 
free  from  marks  of  corrosion.  The  six-inch  and  47 
weapons  were  fitted  with  spring  and  oil-cylinder 
recoil  absorbers,  some  of  which  were  under  repair. 
The  biggest  guns  which  the  factory  has  built  were 
four  twelve-inch  weapons  used  at  Wei-hai-wei  in 
the  Chino- Japanese  war,  of  which  two  were  subse- 
quently carried  off  to  Japan  for  use  by  the  Mikado’s 
forces.  The  guns  have  outer  steel  sheaths  shrunk 
over  inner  steel  cores,  but  no  wire-winding  plant 
could  be  shown  to  me.  The  story  of  the  building  of 
the  twelve-inch  guns  seemed  to  me  incredible,  when 
first  I heard  it,  though  at  least  one  lathe  capable  of 
taking  such  monsters  was  upon  the  premises  ; but 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


41 


confirmation  has  since  reached  me.  The  work  must 
have  taken  a long  time  to  execute.  There  is  no 
doubt  about  the  capacity  of  the  shops  to  manufacture 
smaller  ordnance.  The  possible  out-turn  of  twelve- 
pounder  field  guns  is  about  fifty  per  annum,  in  addi- 
tion to  other  work.  The  latest  addition  to  the  plant 
is  a fine  hydraulic  steel  tension  testing  machine,  but 
no  laboratory  for  proving  the  chemical  composition 
is  upon  the  premises.  Cast-iron  shells  up  to  the 
9*2  size,  with  percussion  fuses,  were  to  be  seen  in 
small  numbers,  and  the  introduction  of  plant  for 
making  time-fuses  and  forged  steel  shell  is  being 
talked  about. 

The  works  are  staffed  by  Chinese  artisans  under 
Chinese  foremen,  with  two  English  engineers — 
Messrs.  Cornish  and  Atkinson — who  supervise  the 
getting  out  of  new  plant  and  are  responsible  for 
the  surprisingly  high  standard  of  the  work.  A 
courteous  Chinese  gentleman  acts  as  secretary  to 
the  concern. 

Connected  with  the  arsenal  is  a graving-dock 
capable  of  taking  a second-class  cruiser.  Attached 
are  extensive  repairing  shops.  The  fuse  shop  in 
the  factory  is  now  being  dismantled,  with  a view, 
I understand,  to  erection  in  some  more  isolated 
locality  up-country.  At  Loong-Hwa,  a couple  of 
miles  further  up  the  river  and  some  five  miles  from 
Shanghai,  is  a Chinese  powder  and  small-arms 
ammunition  factory  under  Japanese  management. 
It  produces  a modified  cordite  with  such  high 
explosive  qualities  as  to  have  given  some  trouble 


42 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


in  the  rifles.  It  is  here  that  the  mauser  cartridges 
are  turned  out. 

I was  desirous  of  seeing  the  Chinese  forts  which 
guard  the  mouth  of  the  river  at  Wusung  a dozen 
miles  below  Shanghai.  These  are  said  to  be 
capable  of  shutting  off  from  communication  with 
the  outside  world  the  whole  city  of  Shanghai  with 
all  its  cotton-mills,  docks,  and  sixteen  thousand 
foreigners,  as  a cork  shuts  a bottle.  A hot  morning 
spent  in  interviewing  smiling  Chinese  officials  in 
the  gaily-papered  booths  in  the  heart  of  the  native 
city,  which  do  duty  as  the  yamen  of  the  present 
Taotai  of  Shanghai,  though  backed  by  an  intro- 
duction of  authority,  resulted  only  in  the  reference 
by  telegraph  to  the  Viceroy  of  Nanking  of  the 
weighty  question  whether  I might  go  inside  the 
fortifications.  I therefore  contented  myself  with  an 
examination  from  without  the  walls.  I ran  out 
from  Shanghai,  by  a well-appointed  all-British 
railway,  which  is  part  of  the  British  and  Chinese 
corporation’s  line  to  Nanking.  The  permanent 
way  was  open  only  for  a few  miles  on  both  sides 
of  Shanghai,  but  was  shortly  to  be  completed  to 
Suchau,  and  to  Nanking  by  September,  1907. 
The  original  concession  from  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment contemplated  future  extensions  to  the  rich 
cities  of  Hangchau  and  Ningpo,  on  some  of  the 
wonderful  old  canals  that  once  connected  the 
Yanoftse  with  Canton : but  the  China-for-the- 
Chinese  movement  has  intervened,  and  there  is 
a typical  hitch.  The  Chinese  Government  allege 


MORNING  SPENT  IN  IN  PER VI EWING  SMILING  C'HINESE  OFFICIALS 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


43 


that  they  granted  the  concession  upon  the  supposi- 
tion that  they  could  not  raise  the  capital  for  them- 
selves, and  that  it  now  lapses  as  this  state  of 
things  has  changed  with  the  growing  confidence 
of  the  local  gentry  in  the  profitableness  of  railway 
enterprise.  An  appeal  lies  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment. Meanwhile  I passed  a number  of  engines, 
in  all  stages  of  construction  from  imported  parts, 
and  was  told  by  a friendly  Sikh  policeman,  in  un- 
expected English,  that  I had  reached  the  terminus 
at  Wusung  forts. 

The  line  ended  abruptly  a quarter  of  a mile  from 
the  fortifications,  and  a tumble-down  jinrickshaw 
was  soon  trundling  me  to  the  spot.  There  proved 
to  be  an  earthen  rampart  twenty  feet  high  upon  the 
low  river-bank,  close  to  the  water  at  a point  where 
the  navigable  channel  contracts  into  a narrow  gut. 
On  the  top  of  the  wall,  without  cover  of  any  sort, 
beyond  what  was  afforded  by  shrapnel-proof  steel 
shields,  were  half  a dozen  six-inch  and  47-inch  guns. 
There  was  nothing  wrong  with  the  weapons.  The 
waterway  was  completely  commanded  ; but  behind 
the  guns  was  nothing  but  a low  mud  wall  which 
enclosed  a strip  of  ground  a few  yards  broad.  The 
country  around  is  a low  alluvial  flat  without  obstacle 
of  any  kind  to  interfere  with  a landing,  either  above 
or  below  the  fortifications.  An  enterprising  enemy 
would  know  what  to  do  under  these  circumstances, 
if  his  own  guns  proved  insufficient  to  silence  those 
of  the  fort. 

Chinese  sentries,  armed  with  mauser  rifles  from 


44 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


the  factory,  were  on  duty  in  blue  canvas  uniforms 
at  the  gates,  and  a typical  Chinese  travesty  of  a 
modern  manoeuvre  was  in  progress  in  a field  near 
by.  A squad  of  some  forty  Chinese  had  been 
arranged  on  a line  in  close  order.  An  instructor 
stood  in  front.  At  the  first  word  of  command  the 
men  all  lay  down  with  deliberation.  At  the  second, 
they  got  up  slowly.  At  the  third,  they  marched 
funereally  forward  in  step  for  exactly  ten  paces. 
At  the  fourth,  they  all  lay  down  again  and  the 
process  recommenced.  The  only  disquieting  feature 
was  revealed  inside  one  of  the  gates,  where  some 
bell-shaped  metal  receptacles,  chained  to  others 
that  were  like  enormous  drums,  suggested  that  the 
expedient  of  mining  the  navigable  channel  had  not 
been  overlooked.  Whether  the  mines  would  ^o 

o 

off  in  case  of  need  would  depend  upon  those  doubts 
of  honesty  and  efficiency  which  dominate  everything 
else  in  China. 

I left  Shanghai  at  night  by  one  of  the  sumptuous 
British-owned  river  boats  which  ply  to  Hankow, 
six  hundred  miles  up  the  mud-laden  Yangtse  river. 
The  following  day  at  Kiangyin,  a little  below  the 
treaty  port  of  Chiukiang,  a sight  presented  itself 
which  points  to  the  Chinese  Government’s  having 
done  to  the  main  central  waterway  of  their  marvel- 
lous country  exactly  what  the  Wusung  forts  en- 
deavour to  effect  in  connection  with  the  Shanghai 
river.  At  Kiangyin  a hilly  promontory  juts  out 
from  a line  of  neighbouring  heights  and  squeezes 
the  waterway,  which  was  previously  like  the  Bristol 


THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


45 


Channel,  into  a river  which  appears  to  be  scarcely 
a mile  across.  Glasses  enabled  me  to  make  out 
upon  the  hillside  two  modern  “ long  toms,”  which 
were  either  nine-inch  or  twelve-inch  Krupp  guns. 
There  were  also  half  a dozen  smaller  weapons 
' which  appeared  to  be  of  about  six-inch  and  47-inch 
' calibre. 

The  Nanking  Viceroy  has  now  in  all  some  thirty 
thousand  men  with  whom  to  hold  these  and  other 
positions.  The  tumble-down  city  of  Nanking,  at 
which  the  boat  stopped  next  morning  in  cold, 
driving  rain  to  put  out  cargo  and  some  of  the  two 
thousand  Chinese  it  carried  on  its  lower  decks, 
was  full  of  these  warriors,  and  drilling  was  going 
on  industriously.  The  men  were  armed  with 
mausers. 

A further  day  s journey  up  the  river  to  Kiukiang 
were  further  forts  guarding  the  narrow  entrance  to 
the  Poyang  lake.  In  these  the  guns  were  hidden  ; 
but  local  information,  which  I believe  to  be  trust- 
worthy, had  it  that  they  were  both  heavy  and 
modern. 

The  river  teems  with  laden  junks,  and  is  stirred 
to  its  muddy  bottom  by  frequent  flats.  Even  ocean- 
going steamers  are  sometimes  to  be  met.  Upon 
the  low  banks  were  cultivators  in  the  eternal  blue, 
labouring  night  and  day  at  the  pumps  with  which 
they  irrigate  thousands  of  square  miles  of  some  of 
the  richest  crops  in  the  world.  Always  at  the  treaty 
ports  where  I went  ashore  were  well-built  stone 
houses  and  prosperous  Europeans,  also  swarming 


46  THE  ANTI-FOREIGN  MOVEMENT 


Chinese  cities.  Everywhere  were  signs  of  the 
enormous  traffic  which  the  Chinese  guns  profess 
to  protect,  but  everywhere  also  was  the  belief 
that  this  protection  does  not  bode  well  for  the 
interests  of  the  foreigner. 


I 


CHAPTER  V 


THE  MISSIONARY 


LUXURIOUSLY  fitted  steam  flat  conveys 


travellers  for  six  hundred  miles  up  the 
Yangtse  river,  from  the  seaport  of  Shanghai 
to  the  hardly  less  busy  river-port  of  Hankow. 
Creaking  junks  slip  downstream,  conveying  raw 
cotton,  green  tea,  country-made  paper,  hides,  and 
oil  seeds,  to  be  placed  on  board  ocean-going 
steamers  for  Europe.  Others  toil  up  by  oar,  sail, 
and  wonderful  hand  paddle-wheels,  full  of  Man- 
chester piece-goods,  Sheffield  cutlery,  and  American 
kerosine  oil,  for  stations  on  branch  rivers  in  the 
far  interior.  Neglected  pagodas,  muddy  rice-fields, 
swampy  reed-beds  and  creeks  suffocating  with 
anchored  junks  and  poisoned  with  the  emanations 
of  humanity,  march  monotonously  past  on  either 
bank,  as  the  powerful  steam-engines  strain  and 
throb  against  the  swirling  ochre  flood. 

More  noticeable  than  junks,  crops,  and  native 
cities  are  the  nine-inch  Krupp  guns  which  again 
and  again  poke  menacing  noses  out  of  modern 
fortifications  upon  the  hills,  and  the  imposing  mis- 


47 


48 


THE  MISSIONARY 


sionary  houses  and  churches  that  occupy  as  com- 
manding and  even  more  frequent  locations.  I 
place  the  churches  and  the  guns  in  juxtaposition, 
here  as  on  the  shore,  for  there  is  more  than 
physical  propinquity  to  connect  them.  The  mis- 
sionaries become  a factor  in  the  situation  before 
Shanghai  has  dropped  fifty  miles  into  the  rear, 
and  they  grow  steadily  in  importance  further  on. 
For  each  European  layman  who  joins  the  vessel 
at  the  smaller  intermediate  ports,  about  two 
clerics  may  be  expected.  At  wayside  stations 
where  I landed  I always  met  missionaries,  and 
often  no  other  white  people.  The  tenacity  of 
purpose  with  which  the  missionaries  work,  in  the 
face  of  opposition  from  the  Chinese  and  discourage- 
ment from  their  own  fellow-countrymen,  must  strike 
every  visitor.  A typical  propagandist  in  Middle 
China  said  to  me  frankly — 

“ I preach  to  empty  benches ; but  that  is  the 
look-out  of  the  Chinese.  I give  them  my  best. 
If  they  will  not  hear  I am  not  responsible.” 

He  was  living  with  his  wife  and  children  in  a 
solitary  mission-house  overlooking  a native  city. 
All  the  members  of  his  household  wore  Chinese 
dress,  to  facilitate  their  intercourse  with  their 
neighbours,  and  lived  plain  lives  of  industry  and 
daily  self-denial.  The  missionary  had  acquired 
some  reputation  for  medical  skill,  and  the  Chinese 
availed  themselves  freely  of  it.  Amongst  his 
patients,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  was  a feeble 
individual,  who  had  travelled  a long  distance  for 


THE  MISSIONARY 


49 


physic  for  that  common  Chinese  ailment  which  I 
can  describe  only  as  opium  poisoning.  The  man 
was  ill  from  over-indulgence,  and  went  to  the 
missionary,  as  a matter  of  course,  for  help  and 
encouragement  in  making  the  effort  necessary  to 
break  himself  of  the  habit.  The  missionary  told 
me  he  had  many  cases  of  the  kind,  and  that  he 
was  often  successful  with  them. 

It  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  make  the  ac- 
quaintance of  keen  American  Methodists,  solid 
Canadian  Presbyterians,  British  Anglicans,  and 
French  Catholics,  all  engaged  in  the  uphill  work 
of  carrying  Christianity  to  the  Chinese,  and  most 
of  them  prepared  to  speak  frankly  of  their  labours. 
As  a class,  the  missionaries  command  respect. 
Many  are  good  Chinese  scholars.  Most  have 
travelled  widely  in  remote  regions  of  the  interior. 
Their  touch  with  the  people  is  very  much  closer 
than  is  that  of  the  mercantile  community,  and 
they  play  a part  of  a political  importance  that  is 
recognised  by  every  one  in  China.  Their  detrac- 
tors, and  I am  sorry  to  say  these  are  many, 
especially  in  mercantile  and  shipping  circles,  tacitly 
admit  this  when  they  declare  that  eighty  per  cent, 
of  the  trouble  that  has  arisen  between  Europeans 
and  Chinese  has  been  connected  with  the  missionary 
movement.  Consular  officers  deplore  the  lack  of 
acquaintance  and  consequent  absence  of  sympathy 
which  exists  between  the  missionary  and  mercantile 
classes.  This  becomes  significant  when  one  re- 
members that  at  least  throughout  the  greater  part 

E 


50 


THE  MISSIONARY 


of  South  and  Central  China,  the  merchants  and 
the  missionaries  comprise  between  them  practically 
the  entire  permanently  resident  European  element. 

The  merchant  does  business  at  the  ports,  his 
transactions  being  large  enough  to  affect  the 
welfare  of  millions  of  the  manufacturing  classes 
in  England  and  India  ; but  he  goes  little  into 
the  interior  and  seldom  speaks  the  Chinese  lan- 
guage. The  missionary  penetrates  everywhere. 
In  many  cases  he  assimilates  himself  with  the 
Chinese  in  every  possible  way.  Generally,  he 
speaks  the  difficult  language  of  the  country  with 
fluency.  Upon  the  whole,  he  lives  comfortably 
and  is  upon  friendly  terms  with  the  inhabitants 
around  him.  So  far  as  he  stands  upon  his  own 
merits  and  upon  those  of  the  religion  with  which 
he  is  concerned,  his  position  is  admirable.  Unfor- 
tunately, gunboats  and  political  intrigue  are  ever 
behind  him.  If  he  gets  into  trouble  with  the 
populace,  fines  out  of  proportion  to  what  the 
Chinese  regard  as  the  equivalent  of  the  damage 
done  to  him  and  to  his  property  may  be  exacted. 
If  he  be  killed,  however  great  may  have  been 
the  provocation  given  unknowingly  in  a country 
where  it  is  extraordinarily  easy  to  offend  popular 
susceptibilities,  his  death  is  liable  to  be  made  an 
excuse  for  pressing  political  demands  which  some- 
times have  little  connection  with  him. 

The  merchant  has  difficulties  with  the  Chinese, 
very  similar  to  those  with  which  the  missionary 
becomes  occasionally  familiar ; but  he  is  more 


THE  MISSIONARY 


51 


easily  protected.  The  riot  in  secular  Shanghai,  in 
December  last  year,  was  not  unlike  that  which 
occurred  in  ecclesiastical  Nanchang  in  February. 
Only  in  the  one  case  volunteers,  police,  and  blue- 
jackets were  at  hand,  and  the  disturbance  was 
quelled  without  very  seriously  aggravating  the 
ever-present  race  question,  whereas  in  the  other  the 
mob  was  unchecked.  Six  French  priests  and  two 
English  missionaries  were  massacred,  and  a wide 
wave  of  anti-foreign  excitement  arose  which  will 
bring  yet  more  nine-inch  Chinese  guns  into 
position. 

Individuals  may  not  be  greatly  to  blame.  The 
various  missionary  bodies  are  pursuing  their  calling 
to  the  best  of  their  ability.  They  are  bringing 
medical  aid  to  the  sick,  and  are  preaching  a higher 
morality  than  that  which  exists  around  them.  The 
Chinese  officials  are  also  doing  what  they  can, 
according  to  their  lights.  They  are  endeavouring 
to  avoid  friction  and  to  govern  the  country  with  as 
little  embarrassment  as  possible  to  themselves  and 
their  people.  But  a situation  exists  that  is  always 
potential  for  active  trouble.  The  matter  for  wonder 
is  only  that  this  trouble  so  seldom  becomes  grave. 

The  importance  of  the  missionary  question  is  so 
considerable  that  I thought  it  worth  while  to  go 
some  hundreds  of  miles  out  of  my  road  in  order  to 
visit  Nanchang,  a place  which  had  acquired,  by  the 
riot  I have  referred  to,  a claim  to  be  considered 
the  fighting  front  of  the  church  militant  in  China. 
On  my  way  up  the  Yangtse  and  Kan  rivers  and 


52 


THE  MISSIONARY 


across  the  Poyang  lake  to  reach  Nanchang,  I called 
at  mission  stations  at  Wulu,  Kiukiang,  Taku-Tang, 
and  Wochen.  I also  met  numerous  missionaries 
connected  with  Shanghai,  Nanking,  and  other 
stations.  The  Protestants  who  talked  with  me 
were  unanimous  in  holding  that  there  are  few 
countries  in  the  world  in  which  an  unarmed  stranger 
can  wander  with  greater  personal  safety  than  in 
China,  provided  he  does  not  interfere  with  the 
people.  Mr.  L.  Day,  Agent  of  the  British  and 
Foreign  Bible  Society,  whom  I met  at  Kiukiang,  was 
itinerating  within  thirty  miles  of  Nanchang  when 
the  riot  was  going  on.  He  received  no  incivility 
and  was  unaware  that  anything  unusual  was  happen- 
ing, until  he  arrived  within  the  city  walls  three  days 
after  the  disturbance.  Both  Protestant  missionaries 
and  Chinese  officials  consider  that  the  riot  was 
directed  solely  against  the  Roman  Catholics  and 
that  the  Protestants  who  perished  were  killed  by 
mistake.  The  Catholics  do  not  deny  this,  though 
they  hold,  quite  properly,  that  the  Chinese 
authorities  could  and  ought  to  have  afforded  pro- 
tection. 

The  Chinese  discriminate  between  Catholics  and 
Protestants  because  the  French  fathers,  who  repre- 
sent Catholicism  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the 
country,  have  made  themselves  an  active  power  and 
have  thus  come  into  collision  with  the  mandarins  ; 
whereas  this  is  not  generally  the  case  with  the 
Protestants.  The  French  have  unwisely  insisted 
upon  the  granting  of  mandarin’s  precedence  to 


HK;HER  morality  than  that  which  KXIS'I'S  around  them 


THE  MISSIONARY 


53 


their  missionaries.  For  example,  a French  bishop 
ranks  not  far  from  a Chinese  governor.  The 
French  missions  are  long  established  and  have 
become  extraordinarily  well-to-do  and  influential. 
They  pursue  a consistent  policy  of  backing  up  the 
members  of  their  congregations  in  secular  as  well 
as  in  spiritual  matters. 

This  has  had  exceedingly  serious  consequences. 
The  Chinese  is  possessed  of  a curious  indifference 
to  death,  which  has  won  for  him  a not  altogether 
deserved  reputation  for  courage.  He  is  liable  to 
paroxysms  of  ungovernable  excitement  as  brief  as 
they  are  furious  while  they  last,  during  which  he 
may  do  almost  anything.  He  is  self-assertive  and 
touchy,  but  timorous  and  suspicious  at  heart,  to  an 
extent  which  Europeans  find  difficulty  in  realising. 
His  normal  state  is  that  of  a leaf  blown  about  by 
gusty  alarms.  He  is  for  ever  seeking  something 
behind  which  to  shelter  himself  He  sees  in  the 
Catholic  organisation  in  China,  with  its  European 
mandarins,  its  wealth  and  prestige,  something- 
similar  to  but  infinitely  more  powerful  than  the 
secret  societies  which  he  has  created  in  the  hope 
that  they  may  help  him.  He  has  neither  senti- 
mental nor  religious  objection  to  adding  another 
ritual  to  the  affairs  of  his  daily  life ; and  he  finds 
in  Christian  baptism  a means  of  strengthening  his 
position  in  regard  to  his  enemies.  In  consequence 
a Chinese  with  a lawsuit  pending  seeks  out  and 
joins,  if  he  can,  whichever  faith  seems  likely  to 
promise  him  the  most  influential  support. 


54 


THE  MISSIONARY 


The  Catholic  Church  was  in  his  midst  long  before 
the  Protestants  appeared.  It  has  opened  its  arms 
wide  to  receive  him,  believing,  no  doubt,  that 
regeneration  would  follow  conversion  ; and  once  it 
has  embraced  him,  it  has  made  his  interests  its  own 
in  a manner  which  has  sometimes  been  more  whole- 
hearted than  discriminating.  The  apparent  success 
of  the  system  has  been  enormous.  Chinese  acknow- 
ledging a spiritual  overlord  in  the  Pope  are 
numerous.  Stately  churches  and  extensive  monas- 
teries on  commanding  sites  testify  to  the  wealth 
that  has  been  acquired,  not  wholly  by  means  of  the 
collection-plate.  Business  acumen  and  political 
influence  are  valuable  factors  in  the  imposing  result. 
I have  been  told  that  this  Church  owns  land  even 
on  the  bund  at  Shanghai,  on  which  important  busi- 
ness houses  are  located.  A fine  line  of  French 
river  steamers  which  started  last  April,  running 
between  Shanghai  and  Hankow,  is  said  to  be 
to  some  extent  an  ecclesiastical  venture.  The 
Protestant  denominations  are  much  poorer. 

The  system  has  the  grave  drawback  of  creating 
friction  both  with  Chinese  officials  and  with  the 
non-Catholic  populace.  The  mandarins  have  tried 
to  play  off  the  Protestants  against  the  Catholics. 
I have  heard  of  one  instance  where  they  succeeded 
temporarily,  with  results  more  startling  than  edify- 
ing ; but  the  scandal  ceased  when  the  Protestant 
missionary  specially  concerned  was  recalled  by  the 
directors  of  the  body  to  which  he  belonged.  All 
important  negotiations  between  British  missionaries 


THE  MISSIONARY 


55 


and  Chinese  officials  have  now  to  pass  through  the 
hands  of  the  consuls  ; and  I have  been  struck  with 
the  creditable  determination  I have  found  amongst 
missionaries  of  various  Protestant  denominations 
to  avoid  external  assistance  in  pushing  their  tenets. 
Protestant  progress  is  slow  in  consequence  ; but 
the  best  of  the  representatives  of  this  faith  are  on 
cordial  terms  with  the  Chinese  officials,  and  are 
thus  in  a position  to  narrow  the  gulf  of  mutual 
suspicion  which  lies  between  themselves  and  their 
neighbours. 


, ■ '{ 


' 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 

I ARRIVED  at  Nanchang  late  one  afternoon, 
on  the  first  British-owned  trading  steamer  to 
visit  the  place  after  the  riot.  Blue-clad  inhabitants 
crowded  the  river-bank,  and  thrust  eager,  half- 
shaven  heads  out  of  every  visible  door  and  window. 
A steamer  was  evidently  an  event.  Following 
experienced  advice,  I stepped,  uninvited,  into  a 
dinghy  manned  by  Chinese  soldiers  in  black 
uniforms  embroidered  with  red  characters,  which 
lay  amongst  a mass  of  native  craft  besieging 
the  steamer.  I was  sculled  promptly  to  the 
nearest  guard-house  upon  the  bank.  Here  I found 
myself  in  the  embarrassing  position  of  a fragile 
curiosity  thrust  into  unwilling  hands,  which  would 
be  held  answerable  for  any  damage  that  might 
befall  it.  A guard  of  soldiers  was  told  off  to  follow 
me ; and  though  there  was  no  menace  in  the  air 
the  curiosity  of  the  crowd  was  not  wholly  friendly. 
My  guards  tackled  their  troublesome  responsibility 
with  noisy  officiousness  ; and  the  people  were 
shouted  at  and  thrust  out  of  the  path  with  a com- 

57 


S8  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


motion  that  brought  comers  and  goers  from  distant 
thoroughfares  to  supplement  the  occasion.  The 
city  contains  a million  inhabitants.  No  doubt  the 
number  who  assembled  was  but  a microscopic 
fraction  of  the  whole,  but  I found  it  quite  big 
enough  to  be  convincing. 

The  place  is  of  the  characteristic  Chinese  type, 
which  huddles  together  closely  for  protection 
within  a high  wall,  crenellated  and  moated.  There 
is  no  room  for  streets.  Dark,  narrow  passages 
serve  for  both  highways  and  sewers,  so  my 
progress  was  not  as  fast  as  I should  have  liked 
to  make  it ; but  I reached  the  fine  Methodist- 
Episcopal  Mission  building  outside  the  city  at 
last,  where  I was  received  with  kindness  and 
courtesy.  Within  its  walls  I learnt  something  of 
the  quiet  lives  of  unselfish  devotion  which  mis- 
sionaries lead  in  out-of-the-way  parts  of  China, 
and  saw  one  of  the  hospitals  in  which  sick  and 
infirm  Chinese  are  nursed.  In  due  course  I was 
given  particulars  of  the  catastrophe  which  had 
overwhelmed,  only  six  weeks  previously,  all  the 
branches  of  Christian  endeavour  inside  the  city, 
and  narrowly  missed  those  without. 

The  Methodist-Episcopal  missionaries  live  in 
three  roomy  houses  in  a big,  open  compound,  close 
to  the  river.  I found  a wall  in  course  of  erection 
around  this  compound,  and  was  surprised  at  the 
slightness  of  its  structure.  The  entire  mission  had  | 
so  recently  emerged  from  urgent  danger  that  I 
supposed  the  wall  could  be  for  no  other  purpose 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  59 


than  to  resist  mob  violence,  for  which,  however,  its 
proportions  were  totally  insufficient.  I remarked 
upon  this  to  the  Rev.  Edward  James,  the  head  of 
the  station,  and  was  told  that  it  was  simply  to  keep 
sneak  thieves  from,  the  garden.  It  was  a comment 
upon  the  ordinary  and  the  extraordinary  risks  of 
mission  life. 

Late  at  night  I returned  to  the  steamer,  my 
guardians  splashing  in  front  through  an  odorous 
ankle-deep  mire,  which  became  constantly  more 
liquid  as  the  rain  added  to  its  volume,  though  I 
stumbled  occasionally  over  granite  paving- blocks. 
The  populace  was  then  in  bed,  and  the  procession 
in  front  of  me  swayed  weirdly  in  the  feeble  glow  of 
two  enormous  square  lanterns,  covered  with  yellow 
oiled  paper  bearing  red  characters,  which  bobbed 
up  and  down  at  the  ends  of  long,  willowy  sticks. 

At  the  river-bank'  we  scrambled  out  of  the  mud, 
over  a fleet  of  wobbly  junks  and  dinghies  to  get  to 
our  boat.  I was  climbing,  in  the  darkness,  over  an 
ancient  muzzle-loading  cannon,  on  the  stern  of  a 
queer,  square  vessel,  when  two  large  pieces  of  red 
paper,  mysterious  with  Chinese,  were  thrust  into 
my  hand.  The  lanterns  were  brought  to  assist, 
and  I was  bidden,  in  cheerful  pigeon  English,  to 
“ pay  ” two  cards  back.  - I demanded  to  be  presented 
to  my  visitors,  but  was  told  they  were  asleep  upon 
the  Chinese  guard-boat  which,  it  appeared,  I was 
crossing.  So  they  were  not  my  visitors  but  my 
hosts,  and  they  had  gone  to  bed ; but  I was  not 
to  escape  the  due  circumstance  of  the  occasion. 


6o  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


Eventually  I reached  the  ship,  where  my  lantern- 
bearers  lowered  my  self-conceit  by  declining,  with 
good-humoured  condescension,  the  payment  I 
ventured  to  offer  them. 

The  following  morning  a tall  Chinese  guard-boat 
captain,  Wu  Mei  Ting,  presented  himself,  and  proved 
to  be  a capital  fellow.  He  had  been  told  off  by  the 
foreign  department  of  the  local  yamen,  thanks  to  the 
kind  offices  of  my  friends  of  the  previous  evening, 
to  conduct  me  over  the  city.  Wu  Mei  Ting  took 
me  in  hand  conscientiously.  The  ship’s  compra- 
dor’s mate  was  summoned  to  interpret  what  we  had 
to  say  to  each  other.  A posse  of  Chinese  police 
was  added  to  the  party,  and  in  a body  we  inspected 
the  charred  ruins  of  the  monastery,  the  schools,  and 
the  mission-house,  as  the  mob  had  left  them,  and 
traced  the  locations  of  the  various  fatal  tragedies  of 
the  riot,  about  which  my  companion  could  speak 
with  the  authority  of  experience. 

At  the  time  of  the  disturbances  Wu  Mei  Ting  was 
in  command  of  a single  wooden  guard-boat  on  the 
river,  the  size  of  a London  coal-lighter,  which  carried 
a muzzle-loading  cannon  of  pre-Taiping  date,  and 
had  a crew  of  five  Chinese  bluejackets  armed  with 
ancient  Spandal  repeating  rifles.  At  no  small  risk 
to  himself,  but  without  firing  a shot,  Wu  Mei  Ting 
made  his  way  through  the  mob,  and  rescued  and 
brought  into  safety  several  European  missionaries, 
including  ladies  and  children,  who  were  hiding  pre- 
cariously in  different  parts  of  the  city.  The  trouble 
had  roots  which  went  a long  way  back,  but  its 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  6i 


immediate  cause  was  the  ignorant  but  honest  indig- 
nation on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  at  what  they 
believed  to  have  been  a crime  committed  by  Roman 
Catholic  hands.  The  well-known  story  is  that  a 
mandarin  magistrate,  who  had  a misunderstanding 
with  the  French  fathers  over  some  disputes  he  was 
responsible  for  adjusting,  met  his  death  as  the  sequel 
to  self-inflicted  injuries  received  after  dinner  in  the 
monastery.  Two  distinct  charges  were  brought  by 
the  Chinese  against  the  French  fathers.  One  was 
that  of  having  put  the  mandarin  into  such  a position 
that  he  saw  no  alternative  to  suicide  as  a means 
of  escape  from  loss  of  “face,”  which  respectable 
Chinese  dread  more  than  death.  The  other  was 
the  incredibly  horrible  one  of  having  endeavoured 
to  murder  the  self-wounded  man  after  he  had 
bungled  in  cutting  his  own  throat. 

To  Europeans  these  two  charges  seem  totally 
distinct  in  nature  and  of  very  different  degree. 
The  mandarin  undoubtedly  attempted  suicide  within 
the  walls  of  the  monastery,  and  a further  injury  was 
afterwards  done  to  him  ; but  it  does  not  follow  that 
the  unfortunate  French  fathers  who  were  massacred 
were  to  blame.  A British  naval  doctor,  who 
examined  the  corpse  of  the  mandarin  some  time 
after  death,  considered  that  all  the  injuries  were 
suicidal,  but  the  examination  could  not  be  held  soon 
enough  to  establish  this  opinion  beyond  dispute ; 
and  in  view  of  the  evidence  of  Dr.  Charles,  of  the 
Methodist-Episcopal  Mission,  who  also  saw  the 
remains,  the  Protestant  missionary  bodies  have 


62  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


wisely  refrained  from  depending  upon  it.  Even  if 
it  be  rejected  altogether  an  alternative  explanation 
remains,  which  is  accepted  in  some  of  the  best- 
informed  European  circles  in  Middle  China.  This 
explanation  suggests  that  the  second  injury  was 
inflicted  by  the  Chinese,  after  the  sufferer  had  been 
carried  off  from  the  monastery.  The  murder,  if 
murder  occurred,  would  then  be  attributable  either 
to  desire  upon  the  part  of  Chinese  political  agitators 
to  inflame  the  passions  of  the  mob  against  Euro- 
peans, or  else  to  the  less  diabolical  intention  of 
carrying  out  the  wishes  of  the  would-be  suicide. 

The  majority  of  the  Chinese  of  Nanchang  did 
not  stop  to  consider  any  of  these  possibilities,  but 
greedily  swallowed  the  monstrous  allegation  that 
the  French  fathers  had  murdered  the  mandarin.  A 
minority,  who  might  otherwise  have  hesitated,  seem 
to  have  been  carried  away  by  a typically  mandarin 
argument  that  the  owners  of  a house  in  which  an 
ultimately  fatal  suicide  occurs  are  responsible  for 
the  catastrophe,  even  although  they  may  have  had 
no  direct  connection  with  it. 

The  antecedents  of  the  riot  are  likely  to  remain 
always  a matter  for  surmise,  but  the  events  of  the 
disturbance  itself  are  well  ascertained.  A mob- 
meeting was  held,  and  broke  up  with  cries  of 
“ Dah  ! Dah  ! Dahsz  ! ” (Strike  ! Strike  ! Kill !), 
and  then  occurred  an  indiscriminate  massacre  of 
foreigners.  The  Chinese  authorities  had  posted 
guards  to  protect  the  missionaries  when  the  riot 
threatened,  and  from  the  Chinese  point  of  view  the 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  63 


men  were  true  to  their  charge.  They  did  not  dare 
to  take  the  responsibility  upon  themselves  of  firing 
upon  the  mob  or  of  charging  it  with  the  bayonet, 
when  such  a course  alone  would  have  saved  the 
situation  ; but  they  remonstrated  with  the  rioters. 
One  of  them  even  threw  his  arms  round  the  most 
unpopular  of  the  priests  and  shouted,  “ Kill  me,  but 
do  not  hurt  this  foreigner,”  getting  his  own  head 
laid  open  in  consequence  by  a blow  intended  for 
the  priest.  Another  soldier  hid  a little  European 
child  under  his  coat,  thereby  saving  its  life.  The 
Chinese  have  no  Riot  Act,  and  except  when 
aroused,  as  the  mob  was  on  this  occasion,  are 
possessed  by  such  fear  of  responsibility  and  such 
aversion  to  shedding  blood  that  it  is  easy  to  picture 
the  guards  vacillating  until  it  was  too  late.  There 
may  have  been  scarcity,  or  even  entire  absence  of 
cartridges  for  the  antiquated  rifles  with  which  they 
were  provided  ; but  bayonets  were  available  in  any 
requisite  quantity  ; and  there  need  have  been  no 
difficulty  in  calling  in  from  outside  troops  armed 
with  serviceable  weapons. 

With  these  things  in  mind  I stood  upon  a yellow 
chunk  of  slippery  granite,  in  an  evil-smelling  slough 
of  slimy  filth,  where  were  recovered  the  poor  battered 
remains  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kingham,  British  mission- 
aries. Wu  Mei  Ting  dripped  cheerfully  in  the 
rain,  under  a black  European  umbrella  on  the  bank 
above  me,  while  I fumbled  with  cold,  wet  fingers 
over  a combination  of  aperture  and  exposure  in 
vain  endeavour  to  photograph  a black,  closely- 


64  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


barred  door  under  a grey  brick  arch,  where  the 
victims  took  temporary  refuge  ' before  they  were 
killed. 

Alongside,  balanced  unsteadily  on  the  nail-heads 
as  big  as  marbles  of  their  greasy  brown  leather 
boots,  were  a dozen  Chinese  soldiers,  in  black  and 
blue  undress  uniform,  illuminated  with  yard-long 
texts.  Beyond,  shambled  a shabby,  blue  crowd  of 
idlers,  attracted  by  the  unusual  presence  of  a 
foreigner.  The  majority  were  stalwart  coolies, 
armed  with  stout  wooden  staves  used  ordinarily 
to  enable  two  men  to  share  the  weight  in  carrying 
packages  of  green  tea,  but  capable  also  of  less 
peaceful  purpose,  as  the  events  of  the  riot  had 
proved.  At  the  moment  it  would  be  difficult  to 
imagine  a more  harmless-looking  set  of  people  ; yet 
it  was  but  a few  weeks  after  the  events  I have  been 
describing.  The  crowd  grew  as  we  progressed.  I 
manoeuvred  to  photograph  it  when  we  reached  the 
open  space  where  the  massacre  had  been  decided 
upon,  and  again  when  we  were  going  over  the  wet 
heaps  of  fire-scarred  bricks  and  tiles  which  are  all 
that  can  now  be  seen  of  once  large  and  imposing 
monastery  and  mission-houses ; but  the  soldiers 
thrust  the  people  aside  so  promptly,  when  they 
realised  my  movement,  that  the  position  I had 
designed  to  catch  them  in  was  lost.  I became 
absorbed  in  the  wall  of  the  joss-house  alongside 
while  I rearranged  the  focus.  Then  I swung  round 
suddenly  for  a snapshot,  but  the  now  practised 
stampede  was  too  quick  for  me. 


A MORE  HARMLESS-LOOKING  SET  OF  PEOPLE  WOULD  P>E  DIFFICUI.T 

TO  IMAGINE 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  65 


Wu  Mei  Ting’s  flowered  silk  cape  and  expensive 
pantaloons  with  sky-blue  lining,  were  getting  wet. 
The  black  turquoise-studded  spectacle-case  and 
cigarette  satchel,  chained  to  his  brown  leather  belt, 
looked  limp  and  depressed.  Even  his  queue  was 
draggled,  and  the  state  of  his  embroidered  mandarin 
boots  was  shocking ; so  I hurried  him  over  his 
demonstration  of  the  particular  rubble-heaps  which 
represented  the  monastery  rooms  where  the  Chinese 
magistrate  dined  and  committed  suicide.  I excused 
myself  from  hunting  up  more  than  a few  of  the 
localities  in  the  crowded  thoroughfares  and  their 
wet  surroundings  where  the  six  unfortunate  French 
priests  were  severally  overtaken  by  the  mob  and 
beaten  to  death.  At  last  our  round  was  over,  and 
we  backed  politely  into  conveniently  tilted  Sedan 
chairs,  and  were  lifted  upon  the  shoulders  of  our 
respective  quartettes  of  coolies  in  umbrella  hats. 

We  left  what  had  now  become  a very  creditable 
crowd,  struggled  through  the  name-boards  and  paper 
lanterns  of  a gloomy  burrow,  and  climbed  up  a 
rickety  wooden  stair  to  the  attic  which  is  the  public 
dining-room  of  the  leading  hotel.  It  was  dubiously 
dark.  At  one  end  was  a four-poster  bed,  with  red 
cotton  quilt  thrown  back  as  the  last  occupants  had 
left  it.  At  the  other  was  a small  square  window 
looking  out  over  wet,  brown  tiles.  In  the  middle 
tottered  a long  trestle  table,  covered  with  a strip  of 
Manchester  piece-goods,  grey  with  grime  and  pat- 
terned with  stains.  Tin-tipped  chop-sticks,  dinted 
and  polished  with  use,  were  set  out  upon  the  table 


66  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


in  pairs  like  school  pens  at  an  examination.  Im- 
memorial brass  cruets,  covered  with  delicate  green 
verdigris,  further  tempted  the  appetite. 

The  illuminated  military  inscriptions  arranged 
themselves  sociably  in  the  doorway,  whence  they 
beamed  and  steamed  upon  the  proceedings.  They 
were  all  wet  and  all  warm.  Wu  Mei  Ting  waved 
me  courteously  to  a chair.  The  assistant  ship’s 
comprador,  in  long  clerical  coat,  bright  blue  petti- 
coat, white  stockings  and  blue  slippers  with  white 
felt  soles,  seated  himself  in  a friendly  way  between 
us,  and  proceeded  to  demonstrate  upon  his  own 
person  the  method  that  is  proper  in  Nanchang  of 
polishing  the  insides  of  the  nostrils  and  the  outsides 
of  the  face  and  hands  with  a fiercely  steaming  dish- 
cloth. Hurriedly,  I explained  that  ill-health  inter- 
fered with  my  eating  a midday  meal.  I was  told 
cheerfully  that  the  hour  when  my  host  and  his  two 
guests  would  dine  had  come.  I will  not  dwell  upon 
the  bounteous  dishes  of  hot  gelatinous  tooth-combs 
and  child’s  puzzles  which  I took  to  be  the  sharks’ 
fins  and  maws  of  Indian  trade  with  China,  and  the 
recondite,  round  brown  blobs  which  defied  identifi- 
cation, nor  on  the  heaped-up  plenitude  of  rice  and 
brown  slippery  things  in  boiling  fluid  that  followed. 
I sipped  some  green  tea  and  arrack.  My  host  and 
the  comprador’s  mate  performed  the  necessary  rites 
with  their  chop-sticks  to  good  purpose,  and  made 
allowance  for  my  foreign  inability  to  consume  my 
share  of  the  delicacies  that  were  offered  me. 

While  we  were  looking  at  the  ruins  it  had  not 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  67 


been  easy  to  get  any  connected  account  of  the  dis- 
turbance from  my  companion.  It  was  raining  ; the 
crowd  pressed ; the  picture  was  too  evident  and  too 
ghastly.  Warmed  and  fed,  in  the  comparative 
privacy  of  the  hotel,  Wu  Mei  Ting  became  more 
communicative,  and  between  the  courses  gave  me  a 
complete  account  of  the  “ fighting  ” and  its  prelimi- 
naries from  his  own  experience. 

The  ship’s  comprador’s  mate  translated  slowly,  so 
I enquired  if  there  would  be  any  objection  to  my 
taking  down  his  words  for  purposes  of  publication. 
Permission  was  given  with  alacrity,  and  I present 
the  result.  It  is  perhaps  barely  intelligible,  but 
it  interested  me  not  only  as  expressing  the  views 
of  a Chinese  gentleman  of  intelligence  who  was 
actually  present  at  the  riot,  but  also  as  being  told 
in  a style  suited  to  the  requirements  of  our  inter- 
preter, and  therefore  not  dissimilar  to  what  one 
Chinese  in  the  crowd  would  have  used  to  another 
in  describing  the  events.  The  narrative  professed 
to  give  particulars  of  three  separate  incidents.  The 
first  two  were  disputes  which  led  to  the  suicide  of 
the  mandarin  in  the  French  mission-house.  The 
third  related  to  the  incidents  immediately  prior  to 
and  during  the  riot. 

The  First  Dispute, 

“ One  man.  Sing  Song  Chi,  have  got  one  house  ; 
Nanchang  sixty  miles  far”  {i,e.,  sixty  miles  from 
Nanchang).  “French  Chinese  mission-men  ” (z>., 
Chinese  Catholic  converts)  “ lent  money  to  house- 


68  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


owner  so  house  is  belonging  mission-men.”  (The 
sum  lent  was)  “ not  enough  one  thousand  taels  ” 
less  than  one  thousand  taels).  “ Sing  Song 
Chi  give  house  to  mission-man  as  security  to  be  for 
three  years — have  got  papers.  Mission- men  in  one 
and  half  years  write  it  down  for  the  mission-men’s 
house”  {i.e.,  the  Catholic  converts  claimed  possession 
before  the  alleged  date  for  repayment  had  arrived). 
“ He  put  mission-men’s  letters  over  the  door  ” (i.e., 
the  converts  took  possession  and  had  their  names 
inscribed  over  the  door  as  owners).  “ Some  people 
saw  the  letters  and  unwilling  ” (i.e.,  disapproved) 
“and  talk”  (^.^.,  say)  “mission-men  no  have  got 
customs  ” not  acting  according  to  custom)  “ and 
never  trust  French  missionellies.  And  the  people 
they  all  together  in  one  place.  She  wished  to 
fighting  with  the  mission-men.  Then  the  mandarin 
hear  them  and  send  soldiers  to  catch  two  three  men. 
The  missionellies”  {i.e,,  the  Catholic  fathers)  “said 
wish  he  catch  all  to  prison  ” (i.e.,  complained  that 
enough  had  not  been  arrested).  “ If  not,  you  must 
pay  my  money  one  hundred  thousand  taels  ” {i.e., 
claimed  heavy  damages  for  the  threats  against  the 
converts).  “ Mandarin  said  the  men  cannot  pay  the 
money.”  (This  happened)  “ three  years  ago.” 

The  Second  Dispute. 

“ American  Chinese  mission-men  fighting  with 
French  Chinese  mission-men  about  the  pass-river 
biddings  ” (i.e.,  a disturbance  took  place  between 
Chinese  converts  of  the  Amelican  Protestant  Mission 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  69 


and  Chinese  converts  of  the  French  Catholic  Mission 
over  the  payment  of  ferry  money).  “ Amelican 
Chinese  lose.  Amelican  mission  Chinese  man 
make  one  boat  for  pass  that  river.  French  mission- 
men  pass  river  in  boat  and  not  pay  passage  money. 
Amelican  mission-man  was  boatmen.  He  want 
two  cash  ” {{.e.,  fare  demanded  was  less  than  one 
farthing).  “ Then  make  fighting,  and  Amelican 
mission  Chinese  have  died  five  men.  The  man- 
darin Kiang  know  it  and  catch  three  men,  French 
mission  Chinese,  put  in  the  prison.” 

“ Mr.  Wang”  {i.e.y  the  Chinese  name  of  one  of 
the  French  Catholic  fathers)  “wished  tell  the 
mandarin  let  off  his  three  mission  men  ” [t.e.,  to 
let  off  the  Chinese  Catholic  converts  accused  of 
killing  the  five  Chinese  Protestant  converts).  “ The 
mandarin  said  because  that  three  men  have  killed  the 
five  men  they  cannot  be  let  off.” 

The  Riot. 

“Because”  [i.e.,  on  account  of)  “this  two  kinds 
of  business  Mr.  Wang  tell  the  mandarin  Kiang  to 
take  dinner  in  French  missionelly  house  ” {i.e.,  the 
French  father  invited  the  mandarin  in  whose  juris- 
diction these  two  cases  lay  to  dine  at  the  mission- 
house  to  discuss  them).  “ The  missionelly  tell  the 
mandarin  finish  that  case  and  make  square  the  house 
business  too.  Then  the  mandarin  cannot  promise 
he.  Mandarin  say  : ‘ I cannot  make  promise.  If 
you  want  do  as  you  talk  I will  die.  I never 
promise  you’”  {i.e.^  the  mandarin  was  angry  with 


70  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


the  Catholic  father,  and  threatened  to  commit 
suicide  upon  his  premises  if  he  pressed  him  any 
more  about  these  cases).  “ Missionelly  say, 

‘ Suppose  you  die  I finish  that  case — I no  want 
you  do  it.’ 

“ Mandarin  then  go  house ; have  got  plenty 
following.  The  missionelly  get  them  away  outside. 
Mandarin  stop  there.  The  mandarin  think  he  very 
afraid  and  one  boys  come  out  and  tell  the  people. 
He  say  mandarin  was  laid  down  in  the  house  and 
tell  the  other  mandarins”  {i.e,,  the  mandarin  was 
excited,  and  went  into  an  inner  room  of  the  mission- 
house,  and  the  father  meanwhile  dismissed  the 
mandarin’s  followers.  Then  a Chinese  came  out  of 
the  house  and  told  the  people  that  something  had 
happened  to  the  mandarin). 

“ Mr.  Wang  ” the  Catholic  missionary)  “said 
he”  the  mandarin  Kiang)  “ killed  by  himself” 
[i.e.,  had  committed  suicide).  “ The  other  man- 
darins cannot  tell  who  has  killed  him.  No  have 
seen  mandarin.  No  can  talk.  Then  send  men  to 
carry  mandarin  to  his  house.  Mandarin  waiting 
two  days  long  and  then  died  ” (i.e.,  the  mandarin 
was  found  speechless  with  his  throat  cut  and  was 
carried  off  by  his  friends,  and  died  after  lingering  for 
two  days).  “ He  write,  but  no  savvy  what  he 
write.  Afterwards  the  mandarins  tell  the  missionelly 
we  no  have  seen  whose  one  killed  that  mandarin. 
We  don’t  care,  but  this  man  was  killed  from  here. 
Doctor  ofot  said  cannot  save  he.  Then  she  was 

O 

died”  the  doctor  could  not  save  the  wounded 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  71 


mandarin’s  life,  and  the  other  mandarins  said  the 
father  was  responsible  for  his  death). 

“ All  the  people  wished  mandarins  to  catch 
missionelly  to  prison.  The  missionelly  would  not 
go.  Then  they  ” (i.e.,  the  people)  “ wished  to  make 
fighting.  Some  one  gentleman  tell  the  people  don’t 
trouble  that  case.  Have  got  big  mandarin  : will  do. 
The  people  then  all  together  in  the  Pek-warju  ” (held 
a mob-meeting).  “Then  all  the  people  gone  to 
missionelly  house  and  make  fire.  Two  missionellies 
run  away.  Mr.  Wang  is  run  out  by  the  passage 
door  and  the  public  charge  he.  Mr.  Wang  passed 
the  Kingham  house,  and  Mr.  Kingham  stand  at  his 
own  door”  (i.e.,  the  mob  fired  the  French  mission- 
house,  and  hunted  the  unfortunate  priests  through 
the  streets.  One  of  them  fled  past  a neighbouring 
Protestant  mission-house,  and  the  occupant,  Mr. 
Kingham,  went  out  to  see  what  was  happening, 
thereby  involving  himself  and  his  family  in  the 
massacre  that  followed).  “ The  people  did  not  care 
whose  one  is  French.  Then  pull  Mr.  Kingham 
down  and  killed  by  stones.  Soon  Eulopeans  all 
run  away  and  beating  all  killed.  Four  missionellies, 
falling  in  the  water,  died.  Mr.  Wang  died  in  the 
road.” 

After  the  repast  was  over  I persuaded  Wu  Mei 
Ting  to  take  me  to  see  the  courageous  French 
priest  who,  when  the  mob  was  close  upon  him  in 
the  riot,  carried  off  upon  his  back,  into  safety  in 
the  city  jail,  a typhoid-stricken  brother  he  was 


72  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


nursing.  He  was  the  only  priest  in  Nanchang  to 
escape  unhurt,  as  the  brother  he  rescued  died  from 
exhaustion  and  exposure  the  same  night.  I found 
him  alone  with  his  books  in  a cellar-like  chamber 
below  the  level  of  a quagmire  which  filled  the  con- 
fined yard  in  front  of  the  building.  Our  talk  was 
limited  by  some  lack  of  facility  on  my  part  in  his 
language ; but  this  could  not  obscure  the  spirit 
which  inhabited  the  frail  body  of  the  man — a spirit 
which  sordid  discomfort,  solitude,  and  danger  had 
been  unable  to  break.  We  spoke  of  the  actual  riot 
only  by  implication,  for  its  deeds  of  terror  were  too 
fresh  to  be  lightly  recalled  to  one  so  terribly  stricken 
by  it ; but  I learnt  some  additional  particulars  of 
the  disputes  with  the  Chinese  which  had  been  pre- 
liminary to  it,  and  was  impressed  by  the  courageous 
attitude  of  my  host.  “ Moi,  je  suis  Franqais”  said 
this  soldier  of  the  Church  who  is  holding  alone  the 
ground  on  which  all  his  friends  and  comrades  have 
suffered  martyrdom.  It  was  a pardonable  boast. 
Outside  the  big  wooden  gate  that  separated  the 
courtyard  from  a crowded  slum  Chinese  sentries 
paced  up  and  down.  They  guarded  the  representa- 
tive of  a faith  they  feared  but  did  not  love. 

From  the  French  priest  we  went  on  to  the 
yamen,  where  the  Chinese  Governor,  his  Excel- 
lency Hu  Ting  Kai,  a keen-featured  elderly 
mandarin,  was  prepared  to  give  his  version  of  the 
trouble  with  much  detail,  a highly  educated  Chinese 
secretary  acting  as  interpreter.  The  Governors 
eyes  flashed  through  his  black-rimmed  spectacles, 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  73 


and  his  right  hand  went  through  a pantomime  of 
stabbing,  while  his  left  sought  a small  white  goatee 
beard  as  he  pressed  in  rapid  Chinese  his  reasons 
for  maintaining  that  the  death  of  his  magistrate 
was  not  solely  due  to  suicidal  action,  as  the  medical 
officer  of  the  first  British  gunboat  to  reach  Nan- 
chang  after  the  outrage  had  held.  He  showed  me 
the  original  of  Dr.  Charles’  report,  in  English,  of  a 
post-mortem  examination  of  the  remains  of  the 
mandarin,  held  about  a fortnight  after  death.  This 
states  that  there  were  two  injuries  to  the  throat, 
one  of  a typically  suicidal  nature,  done  with  a sharp 
instrument,  the  other  caused  with  a blunt  instru- 
ment at  a later  time  and  with  greater  force.  The 
Governor  also  stated  emphatically  that  he  and  his 
officers  had  had  trouble  previously  with  one  in- 
dividual French  priest  and  with  one  alone.  Of 
all  the  other  missionaries  in  the  province,  including 
American,  British,  and  French,  only  good  was  said. 

The  Governor  admitted  that  the  Chinese  soldiers 
deputed  to  guard  the  missionaries  did  not  fire  upon 
the  mob  in  defence  of  their  charge,  but  declared 
that  the  mob  was  so  large  and  the  soldiers  so  few 
that  firing  would  not  have  prevented  the  massacre, 
while  it  would  have  caused  further  loss  of  life.  This 
explanation  differed  little  in  effect  from  the  even 
more  characteristically  Chinese  view  taken  by  Wu 
Mei  Ting,  who  argued  that  to  have  fired  upon  the 
mob  would  have  been  improper,  as  only  a portion 
of  the  crowd  was  attacking  the  missionaries,  the 
rest  merely  looking  on! 


74  the  nemesis  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


“ Some  very  good  men.  Some  very  bad  men. 
How  shoot?”  was  the  interpreters  version  of  his 
statement.  Wu  Mei  Ting  has  demonstrated  his  amity 
for  the  missionaries  with  action  that  cannot  be  mis- 
understood, and  he  evidently  believed  what  he  said. 

The  Governor  also  argued,  and  I found  his  view 
shared  by  the  Protestant  missionaries  in  Nanchang 
and  its  neighbourhood,  that  there  would  have  been 
no  disturbance  if  there  had  been  no  interference 
with  the  course  of  Chinese  justice  where  native 
converts  were  concerned.  The  subject  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly delicate  one,  but  I may  venture  again  to 
mention  the  wise  course  adopted  by  the  Methodist- 
Episcopal  and  some  other  missionaries,  who  have 
refused  the  offer  of  mandarin  rank,  made  to  them 
as  a set-off  against  the  exigence  of  the  French 
Fathers,  and  resolutely  set  their  faces  against 
mixing  themselves  in  any  way  whatever  with  the 
temporal  affairs  of  their  converts.  It  was  a pleasure 
to  notice  the  cordiality  of  the  tone  in  which  Gover- 
nor Hu  Ting  Kai  spoke  of  the  local  representatives 
of  the  bodies  I refer  to. 

After  leaving  the  Governors  yamen,  Wu  Mei 
Ting  took  me  to  see  the  five  guard-boats,  to  the 
command  of  which  he  had  been  promoted,  in  fitting 
recognition  of  his  courage  and  energy  on  behalf  of 
the  Europeans  in  the  riot.  I have  previously 
quoted  the  case  of  the  Taotai  of  Shanghai,  who 
obtained  promotion  after  failing  to  stop  a disturb- 
ance. The  case  of  Wu  Mei  Ting  shows  that  prefer- 
ment in  China  may  also  be  earned  by  other  action. 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  75 


Wu  Mei  Ting  introduced  me  to  an  intelligent 
Chinese  lieutenant  and  paraded  his  crew.  We 

I afterwards  examined  his  muzzle-loading  nine- 
pounders  and  ancient  repeating  rifles,  and  dis- 
! cussed  their  possibilities  ; but  my  polite  curiosity 
I about  the  ammunition  could  not  be  gratified  upon 
the  guard-boats  any  more  than  in  the  city,  where 
several  of  the  sentries  consented  to  my  examining 
their  rifles,  but  could  not  show  me  a single  cart- 
ridge. Ammunition,  I gather,  is  not  considered 
necessary  in  Central  China  for  keeping  up  respect 
for  the  military  arm.  Even  the  soldier’s  rifle  is 
often  discarded.  I asked  some  unarmed  warriors, 
who  insisted  upon  escorting  me  through  Nanchang 
with  lanterns,  on  the  night  of  my  arrival,  what 
protection  it  was  possible  for  them  to  afford  without 
either  guns  or  swords. 

“ The  lanterns  ” they  told  my  interpreter  cheer- 
fully, “are  altogether  sufficient.” 

Can  it  have  been  that  the  Chinese  officials 
thought  the  same  when  they  set  about  protecting 
the  threatened  missionaries.^ 

Subsequent  to  the  riot  the  inhabitants  of  Nang- 
chang  showed  they  are  as  timid  as  they  are  excit- 
able. After  rising  in  sudden  fury,  and  massacring 
their  European  neighbours  indiscriminately,  word 
went  round  that  British  gunboats  would  arrive 
“ with  bullets  as  big  as  pumpkins  ” to  make  an  end 
of  the  city.  Such  a rush  to  escape  then  took  place 
that  a ferryboat  was  overcrowded  and  sank,  drown- 
ing, I am  credibly  informed,  no  less  than  sixty 


;6  THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE 


people.  Native  junks  leaving  for  up-country  were 
able  to  demand  and  to  obtain  twenty  taels  for 
carrying  a passenger  to  places  to  which  they  had 
been  in  the  habit  of  taking  him  for  just  one  tael. 
The  explanation  of  the  panic  must  be  looked  for  in 
connection  with  the  fact  that  the  danger  which  threat- 
ened the  city  was  unknown  and  indefinite  ; for  no 
one  is  more  indifferent  than  the  Chinese  where 
mere  ordinary  loss  of  life  is  concerned.  The  action 
of  the  mandarin  who  brought  on  the  riot  by  endea- 
vouring to  kill  himself  within  the  French  mission 
premises,  is  an  illustration  in  point,  for  to  kill  one- 
self under  the  roof  or  on  the  doorstep  of  an  enemy, 
for  the  express  purpose  of  getting  that  enemy  into 
trouble,  is  a form  of  revenge  that  is  much  patron- 
ised in  China.  The  Governor  assured  me  that  the 
stories  which  have  been  published  to  the  effect  that 
this  mandarin  was  in  trouble  at  the  time  with  his 
own  people  were  untrue  ; but  his  evidence  upon' this 
point  must  be  received  with  caution. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  the  streets  of  Nang- 
chang  were  almost  as  safe  for  a European  as  are 
those  of  London.  The  surviving  missionaries,  in- 
cluding two  ladies,  had  returned  to  their  work.  I 
found  an  imposing  French  cruiser  and  two  small 
British  gunboats  which  had  been  despatched  to 
protect  the  foreigners,  lying  idle  at  distant  stations 
upon  the  Yangtse  river.  The  Nanchang  incident, 
however,  is  very  far  from  closed.  Never  before 
has  a charge  of  murder,  brought  against  Christian 
missionaries,  been  so  influentially  supported  and 


THE  NEMESIS  OF  THE  MIXED  MOTIVE  77 


so  universally  believed.  The  definite  accusation 
levelled  at  the  French  fathers  was  very  diffe- 
rent from  the  vague  assertions  of  child-killing  by 
which  generations  of  Chinese  agitators  have  stirred 
up  race  hatred  against  Europeans.  Never,  at  a 
critical  time,  has  a more  unfortunate  impression 
been  produced  in  the  bazars.  The  cry,  already 
dangerously  powerful,  of  “China,  at  all  costs,  for 
the  Chinese  alone,”  has  received  a stimulus  which 
has  affected  indigenous  feeling  from  one  end  of  the 
country  to  the  other. 

Some  time  after  my  visit  to  Nanchang  the 
Chinese  Governor  whom  I saw  there  was  removed 
from  his  post  by  the  Peking  Government  in  defer- 
ence to  representations  made  by  the  British  and 
French  Legations.  A necessary  admission  was 
thus  obtained  as  to  the  duties  of  mandarins  in 
the  matter  of  protecting  the  lives  of  Europeans 
from  mob  violence.  This  concession  by  the 
Chinese  did  not  prevent  the  holding  at  Peking,  a 
few  days  before  I reached  that  centre,  of  a public 
meeting  at  which  representatives  from  different 
parts  of  China  were  present,  to  show  respect  to  the 
memory  of  the  Chinese  magistrate  whose  suicide 
was  the  cause  of  the  riot.  The  meeting  was 
orderly  and  attracted  little  attention.  The  Han- 
yang rifle  factory  clicks  even  faster  than  it 
clicked  before,  turning  out  mausers  and  Krupp 
guns  which  are  some  day  to  prevent  all  inter- 
ference, secular  or  clerical,  in  the  affairs  of  the 
country ; but  externally  quiet  reigns. 


■ (. 


CHAPTER  VII 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 

man  say  he  smoke  opeem.  I think 
V_y  not  true,”  observed  my  factotum  conversa- 
tionally, as  he  gazed  at  a gorgeously-coloured 
portrait  in  the  paper  and  wood  shanty  that  serves 
as  a hall  of  reception  at  the  Chinese  Government 
arsenal  in  Hanyang.  The  portrait  as  a work  of  art 
was  negligible  ; but  it  interested  me  almost  as  much 
as  it  interested  Ah  Wun.  It  was  that  of  a simply- 
dressed  Chinese  gentleman  of  seventy,  with  big 
forehead,  dreamy  eyes,  and  nervous  mouth,  curi- 
ously unlike  what  one  would  imagine  to  belong 
to  so  material  a personage  as  its  original,  the 
Viceroy  Chan-Chi-Tung,  founder  of  the  factories 
that  clanged  on  either  side  of  us  and  blackened 
the  city  across  the  river  in  front.  Chan-Chi- 
Tung  is  abused  and  belauded  until  one  does  not 
know  on  which  side  the  balance  lies.  He  has 
built  cotton-mills,  a mint,  a military  academy, 
the  best  rifle  factory  in  China,  and  the  biggest 
steel  and  iron  works  in  Asia.  He  has  got  his 
province  into  financial  difficulty  by  his  lavish 

79 


8o 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


expenditure  ; but  Hankow  with  its  annexe  the 
crowded  Chinese  city  of  Hanyang,  and  its  vis-a-vis 
across  the  Yangtse,  that  human  hive  Wuchang, 
is  becoming  a centre  of  industries  which  profoundly 
affect  the  entire  country.  Hankow  is  six  hundred 
miles  from  the  sea,  yet  ocean  steamers  cast  anchor 
opposite  its  fine  esplanade  and  busy  wharves. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  a railway  by  which  already  one 
may  travel  through  the  heart  of  China  to  Peking, 
and  thence  through  Siberia  to  Moscow  and  Calais. 
Its  air  is  thick  with  factory  coal-smoke,  yet  the 
fresh  aroma  that  crushed  green  tea  alone  produces, 
pervades  whole  streets  in  the  European  quarter, 
and  makes  one  imagine  oneself  back  in  a garden  in 
Assam. 

At  Hankow  the  river  rises  and  falls  by  forty  feet, 
with  the  alternate  melting  and  freezing  of  snow 
two  thousand  miles  off  in  the  highlands  of  Central 
Asia.  Hundreds  of  coolies  are  constantly  engaged 
in  consequence,  adding  to  the  strength  of  the  wide 
granite-faced  bund  that  already  extends  five  miles 
along  the  river  face.  Their  shouts,  as  they  hurry 
with  swinging  baskets  of  river  mud  across  the 
principal  thoroughfare,  are  a characteristic  sound  of 
the  place.  It  is  upon  the  bund  that  the  English, 
Russian,  German,  French,  and  Japanese  conces- 
sions are  arranged  one  after  the  other,  so  that  each 
nation  owns  a strip  of  river  frontage.  One  finds 
English  and  Russian  merchants  in  big  three-storied 
“ hongs  ” which  lounge  complacently,  with  wide 
verandahs  open  to  catch  every  breeze.  The 


A CKN'I'RK  OF  1 N I )US^1'R  I KS  WHICH  RROFOUNDIA'  AFFECT  THE  ENTIRE 

COUNTRY 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


8i 


Germans  live  differently.  In  their  concession 
red-brick  villas,  with  gables  and  gilt  official  eagles 
just  unpacked  from  Berlin,  stand  to  attention  in 
self-conscious  discomfort.  The  Belgians  have 
dumped  themselves  down  anyhow,  with  the  odds 
and  ends  of  their  railway.  The  Japanese  have 
staked  out  a claim  on  a bit  of  neglected  fore- 
shore ; but  a fine  line  of  steamers  flying  their 
flag  to  the  port  is  the  principal  evidence  of  their 
occupation.  Two  British  lines  of  flat-bottomed, 
three-storied  arks,  with  room  for  two  thousand 
Chinese  coolies  upon  deck,  and  sumptuous  accom- 
modation for  first-class  passengers  above,  stump 
the  river  by  the  aid  of  the  best  engines  that 
Scotland  can  build.  A Chinese  line  imitates  them 
and  a French  one  outdoes  them  in  electric-lighted 
top-heaviness.  The  Russians,  the  Germans,  and 
the  Americans  send  sea-going  craft  to  share  in 
the  traffic. 

Raw  Yangtse  cotton  stares  blanch-faced  out 
of  coffin-shaped  craft,  which  dip  their  varnished 
gunwales  under  water  as  they  buffet  their  way  with 
pleated  mainsails  to  Wuchang,  where  steam-driven 
looms  and  spinning-jennies  whirr  in  the  factories. 
Gunny-covered  bales,  bursting  with  Bombay  yarn, 
still  lumber  heavily  ashore  from  the  river  steamers  ; 
but  Chan-Chi-Tung’s  mills  know  that  their  day  is 
coming. 

The  brick-tea  industry  is  divided  between 
mandarin  and  Russian  factories.  The  tea  is 
fired  at  the  gardens  up-country,  and  is  brought 


82 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


down  to  Hankow  to  be  compressed  into  smooth 
black  blocks.  The  extent  and  machinery  of 
the  factories  where  the  compressing  is  done  is  a 
revelation  to  those  who  are  familiar  only  with 
the  simple  appliances  which  the  Assam  tea-trade 
uses.  At  least  a dozen  establishments  employ 
steam  power.  Viewed  from  the  river,  the  smoking 
chimney-shafts  are  almost  as  imposing  as  those 
of  the  industrial  front  of  Calcutta.  Electrically- 
lighted  premises  emit  the  roar  of  machinery  far  into 
the  night.  Some  of  the  processes  are  kept  confi- 
dential ; but  the  main  operation,  of  squeezing 
damped  tea-leaves  into  solid  masses,  appears  to 
be  simplicity  itself.  Both  Russians  and  Chinese 
employ  Sikhs  to  guard  their  premises.  The 
labourers  are  all  Chinese,  who  work  behind  closely 
locked  doors. 

The  brick-tea  industry  is  not  the  only  enterprise 
in  which  Hankow  sets  India  an  example.  At 
Hanyang,  three  miles  above  the  European  settle- 
ment, are  iron  and  steel  works,  also  rifle,  cordite 
and  cartridge  factories,  which  in  point  of  time  are 
five  years  ahead  of  anything  in  India.  They  are 
under  Chinese  managers  who  employ  German, 
British,  and  Japanese  experts  in  various  depart- 
ments. In  the  early  years  of  the  undertaking 
German  engineers  were  in  charge  of  the  ironworks 
only ; and  British  mechanics  directed  the  rifle 
factory.  Characteristic  differences  with  the  British 
employees  resulted  in  the  sending  for  more  Germans. 
The  pay  offered,  of  six  hundred  pounds  sterling  per 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


83 


annum,  from  the  time  of  joining,  with  bonus,  must 
have  been  enough  to  attract  some  talent ; and  the 
men  themselves  say  that  the  money  was  paid  regu- 
larly, and  that  the  Chinese  were  liberal  and  con- 
siderate masters.  The  difficulty,  of  course,  was 
just  the  fact  that  they  were  the  masters.  The 
Britisher  does  best  when  he  is  on  the  top.  So  the 
Germans  came.  For  reasons  of  economy  Japanese 
are  now  displacing  the  Germans.  I found  twenty- 
two  Japanese  assistants,  of  whom  two  were  majors 
in  the  Mikado’s  forces. 

The  manager  of  the  rifle  factory,  a business-like 
Chinese  gentleman,  educated  at  Tientsin,  showed 
me  courteously  over  his  establishment.  His  secre- 
tary, another  Chinese,  acted  as  our  interpreter. 
Teutonic  influence  in  the  enterprise  was  shown 
in  our  having  to  talk  in  German,  that  being  the 
only  European  language  into  which  the  secretary 
could  translate  the  Chinese  of  my  host. 

The  manaorer  of  the  iron  and  steel  works  was  a 

o 

Chinese  of  another  type.  He  was  educated  at 
Hastings  and  London,  and  studied  iron  and  steel 
manufacture  in  both  England  and  America.  So  far 
as  talk  and  behaviour  were  concerned,  he  would 
pass  anywhere  as  a remarkably  keen,  simple- 
mannered,  intelligent  and  cultivated  Englishman. 
He  had  recently  returned  to  China  from  Europe, 
where  he  had  been  supervising  the  purchase  of 
very  extensive  new  plant.  His  secretary  was  a 
young  gentleman,  also  Chinese,  also  educated  at 
an  English  public  school,  and  possessed  of  the 


84 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


manners  that  appertain  thereto.  If  further  testi- 
mony were  needed  to  the  indelible  stamp  of  these 
institutions  it  was  surely  afforded  by  this  young 
Chinese.  He  had  all  the  marks,  and  they  went 
oddly  with  his  blue  silk  dressing-gown  and  em- 
broidered felt  boots.  He  was  good-humouredly 
bored  at  having  to  show  me  round  ; but  he 
took  me  in  the  days  work,  and  on  the  whole 
he  was  kind. 

“ I don’t  know  a thing  about  these  machines,” 
he  stated  candidly,  and  checked  my  flow  of  inter- 
rogation. 

“The  fellows,”  he  explained — about  the  Euro- 
pean employees — “don’t  get  at  all  bad  pay.” 
He  patronised  me  infinitely ; and  I liked  him 
very  much. 

The  shipping  business,  which  is  of  considerable 
magnitude,  is  in  the  capable  hands  of  a British  ex- 
sea captain.  The  blast-furnaces  are  controlled  by 
Germans.  The  whole  establishment  is  well  organ- 
ised. The  rifle  factory  is  not  anything  like  so  up 
to  date  as  the  Indian  one  at  Ishapore;  but  it  was  in 
full  working  a good  many  years  before  the  Govern- 
ment of  India  brought  themselves  to  the  point  of 
undertaking  anything  of  the  kind.  The  blast- 
furnaces, steel-making  plant,  and  rolling  mills  have 
long  been  turning  out  pig-iron,  rails,  and  girders  for 
every  kind  of  purpose,  while  the  Tata  scheme  in 
India  is  still  only  hoping  to  do  the  same.  I 
travelled  by  train  for  three  hundred  miles,  from 
Hankow  to  the  Yellow  River,  the  whole  way  over 


IRON  AND  STEEL  WORKS  IN  MIDDLE  CHINA 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


85 


eighty-five  lb.  railway  rails  manufactured  from  the 
ore  in  the  Hanyang  works ; and  I have  Sheffield 
expert  authority  for  the  statement  that  there  is  not 
much  wrong  with  the  quality. 

Just  now,  the  Hanyang  steel  factory  is  in  a stage 
of  transition,  as  the  Bessemer  process,  hitherto  in 
use,  is  being  discarded,  and  the  Siemens  open-hearth 
system  introduced.  The  yards  are  piled  high  with 
newly  imported  plant  for  rolling  mills,  furnaces,  and 
electric  installation,  to  the  value  of  £ 1 20,000,  which 
will  take  nearly  two  years  to  erect.  When  the 
whole  is  in  working  the  total  output  of  steel  is  to  be 
about  one  hundred  thousand  tons  per  annum. 

Two  blast-furnaces,  with  modern  steam  blowers 
and  pumping  plant,  are  still  in  operation,  turning 
out  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and 
eighty  tons  of  excellent  pig-iron  daily.  This  is  to 
be  increased  to  four  hundred  tons  when  the  new 
steel  plant  is  ready.  The  iron-ore  and  limestone 
for  the  furnaces  are  brought  up  to  the  works  in 
substantial  flats,  towed  by  steamers,  from  the 
Laishan  mines,  which  are  situated  seventy-five 
miles  down  the  Yangtse.  A railway  twenty  miles 
long  connects  the  iron  mines  with  Shihuiyan,  the 
station  upon  the  river  where  the  flats  pick  up  the 
mineral.  Most  of  the  coal  and  coke  travel  by  river- 
steamer  from  Nganuen,  near  Ping  Lsiang,  three 
hundred  miles  south  of  Hankow,  on  the  Kangsi 
border  of  the  Hunan  province.  They  are  supple- 
mented by  Japanese  coal  brought  in  as  ballast  by 
Japanese  steamers  that  fetch  pig-iron  and  ore.  The 


86 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


iron  ore  claims  to  contain  sixty  per  cent,  of  metal, 
and  to  compare  with  the  boasted  Swedish  article 
in  freedom  from  undesirable  constituents.  The 
Nganuen  coal  does  fairly  well,  though  inferior  to 
the  Japanese  article.  The  railway,  the  flats,  and 
steamers  all  belong  to  the  works. 

The  output  of  thirty-foot  rolled  rails  has  hitherto 
been  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  per  diem.  It  is 
hoped  to  roll  four  times  that  quantity  before  long. 
It  is  unlikely  that  there  will  be  any  difficulty  about 
a market.  Last  year  a consignment  of  pig-iron 
was  taken  to  San  Francisco  by  an  enterprising 
company  of  shipowners  in  search  of  return  freight 
for  vessels  engaged  in  carrying  American  lumber  to 
China.  The  cargo  sold  at  a large  profit  ; and  the 
trade  may  be  expected  to  grow,  as  cheap  freight  by 
steamers  which  would  otherwise  be  travelling  empty 
can  be  relied  upon.  The  Japanese  Government  is 
another  large  buyer  of  the  pig-iron,  besides  being 
under  contract  to  take  annually  one  hundred 
thousand  tons  of  unsmelted  ore  from  the  mines. 
The  principal  customer,  however,  is  and  always  will 
be  China  itself.  The  Hankow-Peking  railway  took 
all  the  rails  the  factory  could  produce  at  the  time 
the  line  was  being  built  ; but  the  section  from  the 
Yellow  River  to  Peking  had  to  be  constructed  with 
foreign  rails,  owing  to  the  extent  to  which  the  out- 
put of  the  factory  was  already  booked  for  delivery 
elsewhere.  At  present  the  steel  used  in  the  rifle- 
making  works  at  Hanyang  is  all  imported  from 
Sheffield.  Crucible  steel  for  the  purpose,  made 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES  87 

upon  the  spot,  is  to  be  one  of  the  next  develop- 
ments. 

The  position  of  the  iron  and  steel  works  in  regard 
to  the  Chinese  Government  is  somewhat  complicated. 
Viceroy  Chan-Chi-Tung  initiated  the  enterprise 
from  provincial  funds,  spending  in  all  some  five 
million  taels  (half  a million  sterling).  For  some 
time  an  annual  loss  was  made  upon  the  working. 
While  this  was  still  the  case  pressure  to  take  over 
the  concern  was  put  upon  Shengkung  Pao,  the 
fabulously  rich  ex-Taotai  of  Tientsin,  who  is  now 
one  of  the  members  of  the  Board  of  Public  Affairs 
in  Shanghai.  Shengkung  Pao  has  since  become  the 
principal  owner,  and  has  increased  by  ten  million  taels 
the  amount  of  the  capital  employed.  The  Chinese 
Government  has  retained  a share  in  the  concern, 
and  shows  the  proprietary  nature  of  its  interest  by 
exempting  supplies  imported  for  the  use  of  the 
undertaking  from  the  payment  of  customs  duty. 

The  rifle  factory  is  a purely  Government  venture. 
It  is  equipped  with  extensive,  steam-driven  machine 
shops  containing  plant  far  larger  and  of  better 
type  than  that  employed  in  Shanghai.  I found 
the  works  in  full  operation,  and  was  told  that 
they  were  turning  out  daily  fifty  completed  rifles 
and  twenty  thousand  smokeless  cartridges  to  match, 
an  estimate  which  I have  reason  to  believe  is 
under  rather  than  above  the  actuals.  The  rifles 
are  serviceable  mausers,  of  the  1888  pattern,  with 
exposed  breech  action,  tested  up  to  a deviation  of 
five  feet  at  five  hundred  metres  range.  The  stocks 


88 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


are  of  locally  grown  walnut.  The  rifles  are  better 
finished  than  those  made  at  Shanghai.  A European 
who  had  done  a good  deal  of  shooting  with  them, 
using  the  cartridges  to  match,  told  me  that  the 
principal  defect  he  found  was  some  liability,  on 
the  part  of  the  exploded  cartridge-case,  to  stick 
on  the  breech  after  the  barrel  gets  hot.  This  does 
not  entirely  disable  the  weapon,  but  makes  it  neces- 
sary to  have  a ramrod  ready  to  facilitate  extraction. 
The  cap  of  the  cartridge  is  sometimes  loose  and 
liable  to  fall  out. 

The  cartridges  are  sheathed  with  brass  which  is 
rolled  upon  the  premises.  The  bullets  are  encased 
in  nickel.  The  filling  is  done  by  automatic 
machinery,  which  weighs  the  bullets  and  the 
completed  cartridges  separately,  and  thus  subjects 
the  measurement  of  the  powder  to  a double 
check.  A percentage  of  the  cartridges  is  proved 
by  firing.  Each  process  of  manufacture  of  both 
rifles  and  cartridges  is  done  by  a series  of  spe- 
cialised machines  so  arranged  that  it  is  possible  to 
follow  the  parts  round  the  shops  and  see  them 
grow,  step  by  step,  from  shapeless  steel  bars,  brass 
and  nickel  ingots,  and  walnut  logs  into  the  com- 
pleted weapon. 

The  factory  also  makes  quantities  of  a light 
field-gun  with  Nordenfeldt-block  breech  action, 
and  short  barrel  mounted  upon  low  field-carriage, 
with  fork  recoil  attachment  to  the  wheels.  The 
gun  is  of  57  mm.  bore.  It  carries  a cast-iron 
shell,  with  brass  percussion  fuse  weighing  about 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


89 


six  pounds.  It  is  a somewhat  out-of-date  but  by 
no  means  useless  weapon.  I saw  a shed  full  of 
the  completed  article  which  the  factory  claims  to  be 
producing  at  the  rate  of  about  twelve  per  month. 
The  capacity  of  the  shell  factory  was  given  me  as 
three  hundred  per  diem ; but  the  quantity  now 
being  turned  out  was  not  placed  higher  than  three 
thousand  per  month,  and  I should  doubt  its  being 
so  much.  The  guns  are  intended  so  much  more 
for  show  than  use,  that  a large  ammunition  supply 
is  not  considered  essential  ; but  this  does  not 
apply  to  the  rifles. 

A small  mountain  gun,  of  37  mm.  bore,  with 
cast-iron  shell  to  match ; the  whole  mounted  upon 
a mule  pack-saddle,  is  also  manufactured,  but  in 
lesser  quantity.  I saw  a modern  quick-firing  gun, 
with  shrapnel-proof  shield,  and  was  told  that  some 
of  its  pattern  had  been  made  in  the  works  ; but 
none  were  under  construction  when  I passed 
through.  Both  the  field  and  the  mountain  gun 
are  shaped  upon  the  lathe  out  of  solid  steel 
blocks  imported  from  Europe.  The  planing  and 
rifling  plant  is  very  similar  to  that  in  use  at  the 
Cossipore  works  of  the  Government  of  India  ; but 
there  is  this  important  difference,  that  the  guns 
have  no  separately-shrunk-on  outer  case,  and  no 
wire-winding  is  attempted.  A brass  time-fuse  was 
shown  to  me  as  one  of  the  articles  manufactured  in 
the  works  ; but  I saw  none  being  made. 

When  I was  at  Hanyang  some  of  the  staff  were 
starting  upon  a four  weeks’  journey  to  Cheng-tu-fu, 


90 


HANKOW  AND  ITS  FACTORIES 


where  the  Chinese  propose  to  found  a big  arsenal 
and  factory,  which  shall  be  so  far  from  the  sea  and  in 
so  ungetatable  a location  that  it  shall  defy  capture 
in  case  of  war.  The  idea  is  one  that  has  long  been 
floating  about  in  China.  It  contemplates  that  future 
to  which  all  Chinese  look  forward,  when  a struggle 
with  powers  having  command  of  the  sea  shall  take 
place.  I do  not  pretend  to  be  able  to  say  whether 
it  will  materialise.  The  difficulties  that  are  to  be 
offered  to  the  invading  army  apply  also  to  the 
transport  of  machinery  and  materials,  and  are  very 
considerable. 

Hankow  stands  for  Chinese  enterprise.  Its  fac- 
tories are  in  a transitional  stage.  Europeans  and 
Japanese  own  some  of  them  and  are  employed  as 
experts  in  others,  but  the  part  taken  by  the  Chinese 
themselves  increases  continually. 


CHAPTER  VIII 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


P to  quite  recently  the  traveller  who  would 


reach  Peking  overland  from  the  valley  of  the 
Upper  Yangtse  had  to  resign  himself  to  five  hundred 
miles  of  weary  stage  driving,  through  country  lanes 
which  are  dust-heaps  in  fine  weather,  and  often  im- 
possible bogs  in  wet.  He  was  compelled  to  spend 
night  after  night,  for  weeks  together,  in  the  miser- 
able hovels  with  torn  paper  window-panes,  which  do 
duty  for  inns  in  China,  with  filth  and  disease  for 
bedfellows,  and  discomfort  and  incivility  in  continual 
attendance.  The  capital  of  China  was  as  inacces- 
sible by  land  as  springless  mule  carts  and  absence 
of  macadam  could  render  it.  Now  the  journey  can 
be  made  without  change  from  Hankow  to  Peking 
by  rail. 

Up  to  last  April  one  train  started  every  day  from 
each  end  ; but  it  went  forward  only  during  daylight 
hours,  and  took  four  days  to  traverse  the  line.  The 
carriages  were  the  ordinary  day  coaches  in  use  upon 
lines  in  Continental  Europe,  and  there  were  no 
arrangements  for  sleeping.  Each  night  the  traveller 


92 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


had  to  turn  out  and  seek  shelter  and  food,  as  best 
he  could,  in  some  Chinese  city.  I was  one  of  the 
first  to  travel  by  a very  much  faster  and  more 
luxurious  train,  which  started  when  I was  at 
Hankow  to  run  once  a week  to  Peking  and  back, 
making  the  journey  each  way  in  thirty-six  hours, 
without  stopping  at  night.  It  was  probably  the 
only  thing  of  its  kind  in  China.  It  had  bogie 
carriages  with  sleeping  arrangements  upon  the 
wagon-lit  principle,  and  boasted  a comfortable 
dining-saloon  in  which  European  food  was  served 
by  Chinese  waiters  under  a Belgian  chef.  The 
language  spoken  upon  the  line  was  exclusively 
French,  but  both  Hankow  and  Peking  money  was 
accepted. 

I found  my  way  in  a creaking  jinrickshaw  in 
the  dark  to  the  gusty  Hankow  railway  station, 
where  a civil  French-speaking  Chinese  station- 
master  was  in  charge.  All  luggage  was  weighed, 
but  the  excess  charges  were  by  no  means  un- 
reasonable, and  the  usual  Continental  receipt  was 
given  for  it.  My  fellow-passengers  included  Ger- 
mans, Frenchmen,  Chinese,  Japanese,  and  British. 
We  stowed  ourselves  into  comfortable  berths,  and 
the  train  moved  smoothly  off  to  an  accompaniment 
of  loud  banzais  from  Japanese  who  were  upon  the 
platform  with  their  women-folk  to  say  goodbye  to 
a compatriot. 

Chinese  newspapers  were  reporting  at  the 
moment  the  existence  of  a rebellion  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Honan,  through  which  we  were  to  pass. 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


93 


One  of  them  went  so  far  as  to  allege  that  four 
hundred  people  had  been  killed ; but  we  knew 
nothing  of  the  story  at  the  time,  and  I am  afraid 
I cannot  describe  our  journey  as  even  adventurous 
in  fancy.  We  found  out  afterwards  that  such  dis- 
turbance as  had  occurred  had  been  put  down 
weeks  before  by  some  of  the  Nanking  Viceroy’s 
troops.  The  published  reports  were  both  exag- 
gerated and  belated.  Rebellion  in  China,  one  may 
add  in  passing,  is  a large  word  for  a comparatively 
harmless  affair  as  a rule.  The  people  inform  the 
Governor  that  his  exactions  are  in  excess  of  custom 
and  that  he  must  reduce  them.  If  he  agrees,  the 
matter  ends.  If  not,  there  is  a demonstration,  and 
perhaps  some  shooting ; but  this  is  only  pre- 
liminary to  a compromise,  for  the  Peking 
Government  never  backs  up  its  officials  when 
force  has  to  be  resorted  to  ; and  the  people  seem 
temperamentally  averse  to  pushing  any  successes 
they  may  obtain  to  extremes.  The  troops 
boast  of  the  numbers  of  the  enemy  they  have 
killed ; but  the  fighting  does  not  often  amount  to 
very  much.  A typical  story  was  told  me  of  the 
Taotai  of  a city  through  which  I passed,  who 
claimed  to  have  put  down  a rebellion,  but  ex- 
plained, when  pressed  for  particulars,  that  it  had 
not  been  necessary  to  fight,  since  by  happy  in- 
spiration he  had  taken  out  a tiger  skin,  which 
had  so  frightened  the  insurgents  that  they  had 
all  run  away. 

The  train  travelled,  during  the  night,  northwards 


94 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


from  Hankow  through  the  flat  valley  of  the  Yangtse 
river.  Wooded  hills  came  down  on  either  side 
of  us  at  dawn  when  we  crossed  the  watershed 
into  the  Yellow  River  basin.  All  the  rest  of  the 
five  hundred  miles  to  Peking  the  line  stretched 
through  level  country.  The  only  big  natural 
obstacle  was  the  Yellow  River  itself.  The  railway 
traverses  the  middle  of  China.  It  has  been  built 
by  a company  of  enterprising  Belgians,  of  whom  so 
many  hard  things  have  been  said  that  I feel  almost 
apologetic  in  having  failed  to  recognise  any 
iniquities.  If  the  engineering  work  cost  more 
than  the  projectors  expected,  and  if  it  be  not  as 
solid  as  on  some  other  railways,  I can  say  only 
that  the  train  travelled  remarkably  steadily  and 
fast,  that  the  food  in  the  restaurant  car  was 
good,  the  sheets  in  the  wagon-lit  clean,  the 
officials  invariably  civil,  and  the  fare  reasonable. 
If  the  undertaking  be,  as  has  been  alleged,  an 
integral  part  of  a Russo- French  scheme  to  rule 
an  iron  line  across  China  from  Tongking  to 
Siberia,  and  to  squeeze  Englishmen  out  of  the 
country,  I must  still  admit  that  I found  it  a con- 
venient link  between  the  British  ship  which 
landed  me  at  Hankow  and  the  British  bank 
which  cashed  my  note  of  credit  in  Peking. 

The  line  is  immensely  important.  For  patriotic 
reasons  I sympathise  with  the  wish  that  my  own 
fellow-countrymen  had  had  the  building  of  it. 
I admire  the  more  the  enterprise  of  the  men  who 
secured  the  undertaking.  The  robber  in  me 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


95 


swelled  with  covetousness  as  the  richness  of  the 
country  through  which  we  travelled  unfolded 
itself.  I found  myself  asking,  again  and  again, 
what  could  not  Indian  civilians  have  made  of  such 
a land  and  its  millions  of  industrious,  peace-loving, 
law-abiding  inhabitants.^  For  six  hundred  miles 
from  Shanghai  to  Hankow,  as  I sailed  up  the 
Yangtse  river,  rice  crops  had  stretched  on  either 
bank  as  far  as  my  eyes  would  carry.  As  the 
railway  brought  me  north  I passed  into  the 
temperate  zone.  The  rice  gave  place  to  wheat. 
Carefully  tilled  fields  bearing  promise  of  heavy 
harvest  extended  for  five  hundred  miles  at  right 
angles  to  my  former  route.  I was  tracing  out  the 
bounds  of  plot  of  thirty  thousand  square  miles  of 
rich  agricultural  land,  heavily  populated  and  in- 
dustriously cultivated  throughout.  Peasants  at 
wayside  railway  stations  were  in  coats  of  padded 
bed-quilt,  with  long  months  of  wear  inscribed  upon 
the  seams.  The  houses  grew  substantial.  A 
winged  stone  screen,  in  blue  brick  frame,  balanced 
in  front  of  every  door  to  keep  bad  spirits  out  ; for 
hobgoblins,  as  every  child  in  China  knows,  cannot 
get  round  a corner.  Purple  masses  of  pendulous, 
tree-wisteria  flower  and  white  pear-blossom  told 
of  spring  returning  to  a northern  land.  It  was  the 
last  week  in  April,  yet  reasons  of  warmth  made 
me  seek  out  a car  step,  in  an  angle  where  the  full 
heat  of  the  sun  could  strike  me  and  where  the 
bitter,  dusty  wind  was  fended  off  by  the  car  in 
front.  It  is  exhilarating  to  fly  through  Middle 


96 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


China  on  the  Hankow-Peking  wagon-lit’s  train- 
step,  and  ridiculously  safe  where  one  has  a stout 
brass  handle  conveniently  placed  on  either  side, 
as  I had,  to  hold  on  to  whenever  a bridge  beneath 
was  deep  or  the  willow-shoots  on  the  embankment 
were  swung  suddenly  away  by  an  unexpected 
siding. 

At  breakfast  the  Belgian  conductor  reported  that 
we  were  approaching  the  Yellow  River  bridge  ; and 
we  at  once  sought  the  train  windows  for  the 
embankments  that  the  school  primers  talk  about 
as  protecting  the  country  from  flood.  Presently 
we  thought  that  we  had  discovered  what  we  were 
looking  for.  The  height  climbed  a hundred  feet 
in  the  distance  upon  the  left,  and  was  covered 
with  scrub-jungle,  out  of  which  rose  joss-houses  and 
Chinese  dwellings.  But  it  was  rather  too  big  and 
too  much  like  a natural  line  of  hills  to  satisfy  our 
expectations.  Another  objection  was  that  it  was 
not  continued  on  the  right  of  the  track,  where  the 
country  stretched  away  indefinitely  upon  precisely 
the  same  level  as  ourselves.  Doubts  about  the 
school  primers’  information  began  to  gather  in  our 
minds,  and  were  confirmed  when  a gleam  of  water 
flashed  out  of  a yellow  desert  of  sand  at  the  point 
where  what  we  imagined  to  be  the  embankment 
left  off.  The  train  stopped  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
A short  tunnel  through  an  outlying  spur  lay  in 
front.  On  the  left  was  a flat-bottomed  gully, 
which  ran  into  the  range  longitudinally,  and 
afforded  a vista  of  irregularly  piled-up  loam 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


97 


covered  with  a framework  of  bushy  trees.  The 
branches  were  thickening  with  budding  leaves, 
too  small  to  throw  any  appreciable  shadow  upon 
the  glaring  dust. 

On  the  right  a giant  millipede  strode  on  long 
thin  legs  into  the  distance  across  a waste  of  sand 
and  waters.  The  bridge  was  there  indeed.  The 
spur,  through  which  the  railway  tunnelled,  alone 
concealed  its  head.  There  was  no  embankment. 
The  line  where  the  green  crops  ended  and  the 
yellow  parterre  of  sand  and  water  began,  stretched 
away  to  the  horizon  without  break  in  level.  There 
was  nothing  visible  to  prevent  the  pea-soup  stream 
from  extending  when  in  flood  to  any  extent  over 
the  cultivation.  A schoolroom  tradition  was  de- 
stroyed which  the  hills  on  the  left  could  not  restore, 
however  like  embankments  they  might  seem.  It 
is  possible  that  the  Yellow  River  may  live,  else- 
where in  its  long  course,  up  to  its  old  reputation 
of  a stream  embanked  upon  either  side  until  it  is 
high  above  the  surrounding  country.  It  does 
nothing  of  the  kind,  so  far  as  I could  see,  at  the 
point  where  the  Belgian  railway  crosses  it. 

There  was  barely  time  to  take  a photograph  of 
the  gorge  before  the  train  plunged  into  the  tunnel 
through  the  spur,  and  the  roar  of  reverberating 
steel  girders  announced  that  we  were  upon  the 
bridge.  Behind  us,  lining  the  channel  upon  the 
left,  was  now  the  range  of  hills  which  ended 
abruptly  at  the  railway.  In  front  the  cobweb  of 
girders  stretched  out  over  what  seemed  to  be 

H 


98 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


some  miles  of  a desert  streaked  with  winding 
streams.  Cautiously  we  rumbled  forward  and 
looked  down  through  the  open  framework  upon 
alternating  dusty  stretches  and  rushing  water  far 
below.  In  places  the  streams  were  grubbing,  like 
terrier  after  rat,  at  the  base  of  the  perilously  slender 
columns  which  supported  the  track.  I wondered 
how  much  of  the  foundations  had  been  undermined 
since  the  last  train  had  crossed.  Some  of  the  dusty 
stretches  were  dotted  with  hundreds  of  blue  human 
ants  toiling  to  build  up,  at  the  more  seriously 
threatened  points,  breastworks  of  sand  which  the 
water  may  or  may  not  respect  when  it  rises. 
Down-stream,  a hundred  junks  floated  placidly 
upon  an  expansion  of  the  river,  their  sails  gleaming 
swan-like  in  the  strong  midday  light. 

The  prolonged  reverberation  of  vibrating  girders 
gave  place  at  length  to  the  substantial  hum  of 
metalled  permanent- way.  We  had  reached  the 

further  bank,  where  the  train  took  heart  and 
quickened  its  pace.  We  sped  through  low-lying 
country^  across  a flimsy  embankment  a few  feet 
high,  which  gives  the  river-bed  on  the  northern 
shore  some  slight  hint  as  to  the  course  intended 
for  it — a hint  which  is  omitted  altogether  to  the  east 
of  the  hills  on  the  southern  bank.  Miserable  huts, 
where  once  were  thriving  villages,  reminded  us  that 
the  population  have  not  yet  recovered  from  the 
floods  in  which  millions  of  human  beings  perished, 
barely  a generation  ago  ; but  no  sign  appeared  of 
the  famine  which  must  even  then  have  begun  to 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


99 


pinch  the  people.  The  river  still  flows  in  the 
channel  which  it  carved  in  summer  fury,  when 
it  changed  its  course  from  the  south  to  the  north  of 
the  Shantung  Peninsula  and  adopted  the  Pechihli 
Gulf,  in  place  of  the  Yellow  Sea,  for  its  outfall.  It 
is  an  obstacle  which  must  always  cause  much  anxiety 
to  the  railway. 

At  almost  every  station  where  the  train  stopped 
we  found  a crowd  of  countrymen  prepared  to  take 
intelligent  interest  in  our  affairs.  Of  local  traffic 
there  was  little,  for  few  but  foreigners  travel  by 
express  in  China,  the  man  of  the  country  preferring 
cheaper  means  of  conveyance.  The  people  had 
come  from  near  and  far  to  look  at  us.  In  only  rare 
instances  did  they  either  beg  or  endeavour  to 
dispose  of  inferior  Chinese  bronzes  or  more  pre- 
tentious curios  from  Birmingham.  At  every  stop- 
ping-place was  a soldier  in  black  coat  and  red 
inscription,  carrying  an  1888  pattern  mauser  rifle 
from  the  Hanyang  arsenal,  and  proud  to  show  us 
how  smartly  he  could  come  to  attention  at  the  word 
of  command.  There  was  no  ammunition  in  his 
pouch  ; but  we  felt  we  were  being  taken  care  of  by 
the  Government,  immanent  somewhere  as  usual  to 
watch  over  the  safety  of  the  troublesome  stranger. 
We  were  received  at  a surprising  number  of 
apparently  insignificant  halting-places  by  comfort- 
able Belgian  station-masters. 

A pair  of  steel  rails,  glistening  on  a stone-ballasted 
side-track  which  branched  away  upon  the  left,  soon 
reminded  us  that  a British  company,  calling  itself 


lOO 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


the  Peking  Syndicate,  is  developing  a coal-field 
in  the  middle  of  North-Western  China,  and  will 
supply  mineral  of  good  quality  some  day  to  both 
Peking  and  Hankow. 

Eruptions  of  rough  earth,  amongst  smooth  green 
crops,  with  a cypress-tree  or  two  alongside,  and  a 
substantial  stone  table  in  front,  where  ghosts  can 
sit  conveniently  to  read  inscriptions  engraved  upon 
stone  pillars  by  pious  descendants,  became  more 
and  more  frequent  features  of  the  landscape,  as  the 
second  morning  wore  on.  Presently  we  entered  a 
region  which  was  little  else  than  a vast  graveyard. 
The  horizon  bristled  with  sharp-pointed  earth  heaps, 
each  representing  a tomb.  Not  a single  neglected 
mound  or  protruding  board  was  visible,  though  the 
Chinese  place  the  coffin  merely  upon  the  open 
ground,  and  pile  up  earth  on  the  top  of  it  with- 
out any  attempt  at  sinking  it  below  the  surface. 
The  heaps  were  in  groups,  each  representing  a 
family,  and  sheltered  by  a mound  to  keep  evil  spirits 
away  and  preserve  the  “ fanshui  ” (good  luck)  of 
the  location.  These  mounds  are  generally  upon  the 
north.  It  is  on  them  that  good  spirits  rest,  with 
one  elbow  upon  the  mythical  tiger  and  the  other  on 
the  dragon  that  guard  the  resting-place  of  the  dead. 
Cultivation  goes  on  around  the  graves.  Well-fed 
ox  and  corpulent  donkey,  yoked  as  a pair,  drew 
substantial  carts  past  the  train.  Blue  poke-bonnets 
on  wheels,  with  fine  mules  between  the  strings, 
pottered  along  the  highways,  the  famous  Peking 
carts  that  even  a Chinese  country  quagmire  does 


TO  PEKING  BY  RAIL 


lOI 


not  appal.  Houses  grew  frequent.  Fruit-trees 
covered  with  masses  of  pink  blossom  appeared  on 
every  side.  We  passed  through  a stone  archway 
in  an  ancient  wall,  where  grey  keeps  and  battle- 
ments towered  upon  the  left,  found  ourselves  in  the 
middle  of  an  enormous  Chinese  city,  and  realised 
Peking. 


r.  ‘f  A 


/ 


WHERK  (;KKY  keeps  AND  IPVr'I'EEME N'l'S  TOWERED 


CHAPTER  IX 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 

TO  see  the  Peking  of  to-day  the  traveller  should 
climb  out  of  the  poisonous  atmosphere  of  the 
narrow  streets,  up  the  steep  ramp  of  the  Tartar  wall. 
There  the  wind  blows  keen  and  the  air  is  com- 
paratively pure.  The  straight  thoroughfare,  fifty 
feet  wide,  covered  with  broken  paving-stones,  which 
is  the  top  of  the  wall,  extends  in  front.  On  either 
side  are  ruins  of  breast-high  battlements.  The 
thoroughfare  opens  into  a succession  of  squares 
over  the  bastions.  Enormous  pagoda  towers,  with 
crude  pictures  of  gun-muzzles  painted  upon  the 
shutters  of  the  emplacements,  strut  at  intervals 
along  the  way.  Southward,  beyond  the  arched 
Watergate  where  the  Indian  contingent  scrambled 
into  the  city  when  the  Allies  relieved  the  Legations 
in  1900,  ripple  the  myriad  roofs  of  the  Chinese  city, 
sharply  divided,  beneath  one’s  eyes,  by  the  broad 
thoroughfare  which  Tartar  conquerors  drove  through 
the  packed  capital  they  found.  To  the  north,  the 
yellow  porcelain  tops  of  the  Forbidden  City  and  its 
imperial  palaces  differentiate  themselves  in  the  pall 

103 


104 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


of  smoke,  dust,  and  vapour  that  hangs  over  the 
hived  dwellings  of  lesser  folk.  On  the  horizon 
to  the  left,  the  cathedral,  where  six  years  ago  a 
stout-hearted  French  priest  and  a few  converts  and 
helpers  denied  entrance  to  besieging  Boxer  mobs, 
raises  a Christian  pinnacle.  Nearer  in  is  the  fine 
American  Methodist  hospital,  which  helps  the 
missionary  cause  by  filling  a real  want  in  the 
city.  Immediately  below,  a stone  clock-tower 
stands  on  guard  over  a prosperous  British  bank, 
a lasting  memento  of  fifty  soon-spent  millions  fur- 
nished to  the  Chinese  Government.  A few  well- 
paved  roads  are  visible  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  foreign  Legations  ; but  they  do  not  materially 
alter  the  character  of  the  place. 

Mule  carts  still  jolt  silk-coated  mandarins  before 
dawn  to  daylight  audiences  in  the  palace.  Black, 
powdery  dust  rises  in  the  same  clouds,  to  spread  over 
the  tinned  foods  and  bottled  drinks  which  the  globe- 
trotter survives  as  hardily  as  ever.  The  dim  curio- 
shops  in  the  evil-smelling  lanes  of  the  Chinese  city 
have  restocked  their  looted  shelves  with  ivories  and 
embroideries,  and  begun  again  their  profitable  trade. 
The  coolies  who  drag  ramshackle  jinrickshaws  over 
slimy  refuse  heaps,  have  dropped  no  note  of  aggres- 
sion in  their  argumentative  claims  for  more  pay 
than  they  are  entitled  to  receive.  The  six  years 
which  have  passed  since  the  relief  of  the  Legations 
have  made  no  difference  in  the  relative  positions  of 
the  middle-aged  puppet  Emperor  and  the  imperious 
Dowager  he  obeys.  The  old  international  jealousies 


THE  BROAD  THOROUGHFARE  WHICH  TARTAR  CONQUERORS  DROVE  THROUGH  THE  PACKED 

CAPITAL  THEY  FOUND 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


105 


still  bristle  behind  the  ostentatiously  concealed 
emplacements  of  the  herded  Legations.  But  the 
white  man  is  no  longer  where  he  was.  His  repre- 
sentatives continue  to  hold,  with  armed  guards, 
ground  they  seized  at  a time  of  war  in  the  capital 
of  a people  with  whom  they  have  since  made  peace  ; 
but  this  is  merely  one  of  the  anomalies  common 
in  the  Far  East.  Great  Britain  and  Japan  have 
accepted  China  as  an  independent  power  like  them- 
selves. The  Americans  are  helping  to  keep  up  the 
impression.  France  and  Germany  are  trying  to 
look  as  if  they  had  not  got  any  Chinese  property 
about  their  persons,  whether  in  Tongking,  Shantung 
or  elsewhere.  Small  fry  like  Portugal,  Spain,  Italy, 
Belgium,  and  Austria,  which  also  hold  semi-fortified 
positions  in  Peking,  are  watching  their  bigger 
neighbours  uncomfortably.  Defeated  but  still 
magnificent  Russia  only  is  unconcerned  ; and  now 
that  one  portal  into  China  has  been  wrested  from 
her  by  Japan,  is  pushing  hard  at  every  other.  The 
Chinese  are  never  tired  of  advertising  that  they 
can  do  without  the  European.  In  Peking,  one  is 
tempted,  almost,  to  believe  that  the  European  is  of 
the  same  opinion,  and  that  he  is  endeavouring  to 
behave  in  his  battlemented  Legation  stronghold  as 
if  he  were  upon  sufferance  or  invitation. 

A battered  corner  of  the  wall  of  the  British 
portion  of  the  entrenchment  has  been  left  unre- 
paired to  show  the  marks  of  the  cannon  which 
played  upon  it  from  the  Imperial  enclosure  in  1900. 
It  bears  in  large,  naive  black  letters  the  quotation, 


io6 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


Lest  we  forget,”  but  is  inconspicuous  in  the 
policy  of  forgetting  which  is  in  operation. 

The  Legation  fortifications  in  Peking  are  neces- 
sary. If  they  were  removed  the  Europeans  would 
be  unable  to  protect  themselves  and  their  women 
and  children  from  the  periodical  mob  violence  which 
the  Chinese  Government  has  proved  itself  too  weak 
to  control.  The  Anglo- Japanese- American  policy 
of  preserving  the  autonomy  and  integrity  of  the 
country,  adopted  for  international  reasons  far  re- 
moved from  Peking,  has  resulted  in  the  compulsory 
assumption  by  the  white  man  of  an  attitude  which 
is  foreign  to  his  relations  with  every  other  alien  race 
in  the  world.  In  India,  a vast  Empire  has  been 
built  upon  prestige.  In  China,  prestige  has  been 
allowed  to  disappear,  and  the  European  has  to  put 
up  in  consequence  with  barely  concealed  contempt 
and  hostility,  which  are  liable  to  develop  at  any 
time  into  insult  and  injury. 

China  has  taken,  in  her  own  slow  way,  the  advice 
continually  proffered  her  from  the  West,  to  employ 
foreigners  to  furnish  her  with  armament  and  to 
drill  her  soldiers.  She  has  got  together  a great 
deal  of  more  or  less  modern  material  of  war,  and  a 
large  force  of  men  not  altogether  despicable,  from 
a fighting  point  of  view,  in  spite  of  the  essentially 
peaceful  character  of  her  people.  With  Russia 
defeated  by  a nation  that  China  holds  to  be  her 
own  inferior,  and  with  France  and  Germany — the 
only  other  nations  likely  to  interfere  with  her 
autonomy — in  effectual  check,  she  is  forming  the 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


107 


inflated  opinions  of  her  own  position  natural  to 
the  Eastern  mind.  She  has  not  forgotten  the 
catastrophe  which  befell  her  efforts  in  1900  to  expel 
I the  foreigner.  She  acquiesces  in  his  presence  as 
: an  unavoidable  evil,  and  protects  his  person  with  a 
solicitude  that  is  sometimes  pathetic,  in  order  to 
avoid  subsequent  trouble  ; but  she  has  no  respect 
or  liking  for  himself. 

The  progress  in  certain  branches  of  Western 
civilisation  which  China  is  making,  is  real  and  un- 
mistakeable.  What  is  even  more  apparent  than 
this  progress,  however,  is  backwardness  in  other 
branches.  With  a soil  far  richer  than  that  of 
India  and  a population  larger,  more  intelligent  and 
more  industrious,  China  is  utterly  distanced  by  that 
country  in  everything  that  public  enterprise  confers. 
In  isolated  industries  initiated  for  her  by  Europeans, 
such  as  the  iron  and  steel  works  at  Hanyang  and 
the  brick  tea  factories  at  Hankow,  she  holds  her 
own.  In  almost  everything  where  her  own  people 
have  been  long  in  charge,  she  lags  lamentably 
behind.  The  taxes  levied  by  her  officials  are  at 
least  as  heavy,  per  capita,  as  those  raised  in  I ndia, 
yet  the  corruption  in  her  public  services  is  so  great 
that  the  total  sum  which  finds  its  way  into  the 
Imperial  Treasury  is  only  about  one-tenth  of  what 
the  Government  of  India  is  able  to  spend  upon 
administration.  China  is  burdened  with  a relatively 
large  national  debt,  yet  she  has  practically  no  repro- 
ductive public  works  to  lighten  the  burden  of  the 
interest.  She  does  not  own  a tenth  of  the  railway 


io8 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


mileage  of  India.  The  splendid  canals,  which  cen- 
turies ago  doubled  the  present  fertility  of  enormous 
areas  of  territory,  have  fallen  into  ruin.  The  country 
is  almost  innocent  of  metalled  roads.  Possessed  of 
a people  amongst  whom  learning  is  a passion,  her 
educational  institutions  have  but  one  advanced 
student  in  the  modern  sense  where  those  of  India 
have  scores.  The  Calcutta  University  alone 
possesses  two  thousand  undergraduates.  The  Im- 
perial University  of  Peking,  which  represents 
modern  learning  in  the  capital,  contained  exactly 
two  hundred  and  forty  students  at  the  time  of  my 
visit.  This  university  is  one  of  the  most  deserving 
and  valuable  institutions  in  China.  Its  foreign 
professors  are  able  and  sympathetic,  and,  with 
proper  support,  would  make  its  future  distinguished, 
since  finer  raw  material  for  intellectual  development 
than  the  Chinese  student  is  not  to  be  found  in 
Asia  ; but  it  is  fifty  years  behind  the  University 
of  Calcutta ; and  even  the  small  amount  of  en- 
couragement it  receives  from  the  mandarins  is  in- 
secure. It  was  founded  only  three  years  ago,  as  a 
sequel  to  the  abolition  of  the  Confucian  examina- 
tions ; but  the  Peking  reactionaries  are  already 
undermining  the  basis  on  which  it  stands,  and  the 
edict  issued  in  January,  1907,  which  reintroduces 
the  Confucian  standards,  threatens  to  complete  its 
destruction.  Other  branches  of  Chinese  official 
enterprise  are  in  an  equally  unsatisfactory  position. 
A postal  system  on  European  lines  has  been  intro- 
duced and  has  succeeded  up  to  a certain  point. 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


109 


thanks  to  its  initiation  having  been  placed  in  the 
capable  hands  of  Sir  Robert  Hart ; but  here  also 
Chinese  interference  has  prevented  the  development 
which  would  have  occurred  in  any  better  governed 
country.  I saw  in  Tientsin  men  who  had  travelled 
long  distances  from  the  interior  to  collect  at  the 
head  office  of  the  Transvaal  Immigration  Agency, 
in  person,  sums  as  small  as  five  Chinese  dollars, 
remitted  to  them  from  Johannesburg.  They  could 
not  get  the  money  sent  to  their  homes  by  postal 
order,  as  would  be  done,  as  a matter  of  course, 
in  India,  because  the  Chinese  Post  Office  cannot 
be  depended  upon  to  perform  such  service  with 
reliability. 

The  state  of  medical  science  may  be  judged  by 
the  fact  that  when,  in  Nanchang,  international  com- 
plications hung  upon  the  curing  of  the  magistrate 
who  cut  his  throat  in  the  precincts  of  the  French 
mission,  the  man  died  because  not  a Chinese 
doctor  could  be  found,  in  a city  of  a million  inhabi- 
tants, capable  of  performing  so  elementary  a 
surgical  operation  as  that  of  sewing  up  a by  no 
means  considerable  wound.  In  Canton  a temple 
flourishes  as  a dispensary  ; but  it  affords  no  medical 
treatment.  The  patient  gets  what  benefit  he  may 
from  kowtowing  to  the  individual  image,  out  of 
sixty,  which  happens  to  be  numbered  to  correspond 
with  the  years  of  his  age.  The  high-class  Chinese 
of  Peking  claim  to  be  civilised,  yet  the  Imperial 
Palace  in  the  Forbidden  City  has  all  the  insanitary 
and  draughty  discomfort  of  an  ill-built  shanty. 


no 


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The  Emperor  ploughs  with  his  own  hands  an 
annual  furrow  in  the  grounds  of  the  Temple  of 
Agriculture  at  Peking,  to  propitiate  the  weather ; 
but  he  is  helpless  to  save  millions  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Yellow  River  valley  who  die  when 
the  floods  are  excessive.  His  Imperial  Majesty 
mounts  the  carved  marble  platform  of  the  Temple 
of  Heaven,  and  reads,  for  the  information  of  the 
deity,  a periodical  summary  of  the  acts  of  his 
administration  ; but  his  officials  still  employ  torture 
in  the  ordinary  course  of  their  dispensation  of 
justice,  and  the  rack,  the  thumbscrew,  and  the 
dragon’s  stool  are  a much-used  portion  of  the 
equipment  of  every  yamen. 

“ I strung  him  up  by  the  thumbs  with  my  own 
hands,”  remarked  a mild-faced  Taotai  to  a European 
missionary ; “I  was  determined  he  should  confess.” 
Yet  the  malefactor  in  this  case  was  merely  an 
ordinary  prisoner,  accused  of  some  purely  domestic 
crime,  who  had  annoyed  the  officer  of  the  law  by 
protesting  that  he  was  innocent. 

The  people  of  China  are  the  most  law-abiding 
in  the  world ; but  public  opinion  overrides  the  law, 
being  so  strong  that  it  is  the  ultimate  court  of 
political  appeal.  The  Government  is  one  of  in- 
action exacerbated  by  tax-gathering.  The  officials 
maintain  their  position,  not  by*  force,  but  because 
of  the  respect  which  constituted  authority  com- 
mands. They  keep  up  soldiers  and  police  to 
enhance  the  dignity  of  their  own  positions,  and, 
incidentally,  to  suppress  rebellions  and  catch,  casti- 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


III 


gate,  torture,  or  behead  such  persons  as  they  con- 
sider to  be  malefactors  ; but  all  their  actions  are 
limited  by  what  public  opinion  will  allow.  Local 
governors  are  appointed  from  Peking  because  the 
people  would  not  otherwise  recognise  the  validity 
of  their  authority  ; but  the  imperial  throne  does  not 
interfere  in  the  ordinary  administration.  The  head 
telegraph  office  at  Peking,  which  handles  the  official 
despatches  of  the  capital,  is  about  as  large  as  would 
be  required  in  an  up-country  station  in  India.  The 
Court  demands  of  its  viceroys  and  governors,  first, 
that  they  shall  remit  it  enough  money  to  pay  its 
expenses,  and,  second,  that  they  shall  keep  out 
of  trouble  with  the  populace.  Provided  these  two 
conditions  be  fulfilled  the  officials  may  do  very 
much  what  they  please.  The  towns  are  cesspools 
of  insanitation,  with  dark  tortuous  passages  in  place 
of  streets,  and  are  devoid  of  the  most  elementary 
conveniences.  This  state  of  things  is  not  due  to 
ignorance.  Close  beside  some  of  the  worst  of  the 
Chinese  towns  are  European  - managed  foreign 
settlements.  Here  everything  is  different.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  well-lighted  ; electric  trams, 
waterworks  and  sewers  are  maintained  efficiently. 
Sanitation,  order  and  convenience  are  attended  to, 
because  white  men,  and  not  Chinese,  are  responsible. 

But  Peking  is  full  of  illustrations  of  the  great 
possibilities  of  the  Chinese.  The  massive  walls 
are  monuments  of  industry.  The  carved  temples 
testify  to  a long  plundered  national  art.  I spent  a 
dusty  afternoon  looking  for  a magazine  and  powder 


1 12 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


factory  which  a German  map  indicated  as  existing 
in  the  south-west  corner  of  the  Chinese  city.  I 
discovered  the  buildings  at  length,  but  they  were 
deserted  and  in  ruins.  Alongside  was  something 
at  least  as  interesting.  It  was  a Chinese  paper 
factory  without  appliances,  other  than  a few  vats, 
sticks,  and  mats,  yet  turning  out  a product  which 
competes  successfully,  throughout  China,  with  the 
machine-made  paper  of  Indian  and  German  steam 
factories.  Pallid  creatures  stood  up  to  their  waists 
in  holes  in  the  earthen  floor  of  the  hovel  in  which 
the  principal  process  was  conducted,  toiling  early 
and  late,  under  conditions  of  incredible  insanitation 
and  discomfort,  each  having  to  complete,  as  his 
daily  task,  the  manufacture  of  six  hundred  sheets 
of  coarse  brown  paper.  I saw  men  handling  the 
mats  that  did  duty  for  screens,  with  skill  that  would 
have  made  them  leading  hands  in  any  European- 
run  steam  mill.  Yet  they  are  content  to  labour  in 
Peking  for  the  remuneration  of  the  meanest  coolie. 
Such  sights  must  continue  until  an  administration 
arises  capable  of  directing  the  great  industrial 
abilities  of  the  people  into  more  profitable  channels. 

There  is  no  lack  of  intelligence  in  the  ruling 
classes.  Only  honesty  of  endeavour  in  the  interest 
of  the  public  is  required.  At  present  the  canker  of 
dishonesty  destroys  confidence  in  everything  that 
is  official.  Taotais  of  cities  like  Shanghai  and 
Tientsin,  who  are  the  presidents  of  the  local 
municipalities,  make  fortunes  which  are  believed  in 
China  to  run  into  hundreds  of  thousands  of  pounds. 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY  113 

When  this  is  the  case  with  superiors  it  is  easy 
to  picture  what  goes  on  with  subordinates.  The 
people  are  so  extraordinarily  honest  in  their  private 
dealings,  and  the  officials  rule  them  so  largely  by 
sufferance,  that  it  is  reasonable  to  hope,  with  the 
best  informed  foreign  residents,  for  some  efficient 
endeavour  from  within  to  end  the  eternal  official 
squeezes  that  exist.  Honesty  of  administration  is 
of  comparatively  late  growth,  even  in  England. 
America  has  attained  it  but  partially,  and  Turkey 
not  at  all.  China  is  only  in  the  position  from  which 
Europe  is  emerging.  Her  ultimate  regeneration 
is  in  the  line  of  natural  probability  ; but  the  be- 
ginning so  far  made  is  small. 

Progress,  where  it  can  be  made  out,  is  still 
local  and  partial.  Yuan  - Shih  - Kai,  the  Chinese 
administrator  oftenest  quoted  for  efficiency,  has 
done  much  in  his  own  province  in  training  and 
arming  troops,  founding  schools,  and  building  roads  ; 
but  he  is  so  solitary  among  his  contemporaries  as 
to  force  the  conviction  that,  as  a class,  Europeans 
at  present  alone  possess  the  qualifications  required 
for  the  government  of  the  country.  Europeans, 
however,  are  being  forced  more  and  more  into  the 
background.  As  exploiters  of  the  produce  and 
suppliers  of  the  markets  they  still  prosper  exceed- 
ingly in  co-operation  with  their  Chinese  partners, 
though  the  recent  boycott  of  American  goods  in 
Shanghai  and  Canton  has  given  them  a foretaste 
of  what  they  may  have  to  experience  upon  a larger 
scale.  They  manage  a certain  number  of  mines 
1 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


114 

and  railways,  but  find  increasing  difficulty  in  en- 
larging their  borders  in  these  directions.  Their 
influence  has  not  been  enhanced  by  the  policy,  now 
in  the  ascendant,  of  relieving  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment from  fears  of  aggression  upon  the  part  of  the 
European  powers.  Dreams  of  administering  China 
as  Great  Britain  administers  India  and  France 
Tongking  no  longer  visit  the  pillows  of  political 
attaches  in  the  Foreign  Legations.  Consul-Generals 
and  their  satellite  secretaries  find  their  immediate 
duties  of  obtaining  concessions  out  of  the  Chinese 
authorities  quite  onerous  enough.  If  Chinese 
officialdom  were  less  occupied  in  accumulating 
riches  for  its  individual  members  it  might  preface 
reform  by  buying  so  many  modern  guns  and  em- 
ploying so  large  a staff  of  foreign  military  instructors 
as  to  create  a crisis  ; for  power  only,  not  will,  is 
lacking  for  the  complete  expulsion  of  the  European ; 
but  the  financial  aspect  of  the  situation  has  proved 
deterrent  up  to  the  present.  So  far  as  the  nationali- 
sation of  the  Chinese  army,  announced  in  December, 
1906,  is  real,  it  does  not  alter  the  situation.  The 
bringing  of  the  whole  or  of  any  portion  of  the 
forces  raised  by  the  viceroys  of  the  various  provinces 
under  the  direction  of  the  Peking  War  Office,  would 
be  important  only  if  the  central  administration 
controlled  the  funds  requisite  to  pay  the  soldiers. 
This  is  not  the  case  at  present,  since  the  viceroys 
collect  the  bulk  of  the  taxation  with  the  exception 
of  the  customs  revenue,  which  is  pledged  for  the 
repayment  of  foreign  loans.  Intrigue  and  counter- 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY  115 

intrigue  go  on  to-day  in  Peking  as  they  have  gone 
on  for  centuries.  A month  ago  the  influence  of 
Yuan-Shih-Kai  was  increasing.  To-day  it  has 
received  a check.  Should  it  prevail  eventually, 
and  Yuan-Shih-Kai  establish  himself  as  mentor  to 
the  throne,  and  maintain  his  position  when  the 
present  Empress  dies,  it  does  not  follow  that  he 
will  be  supported  in  the  southern  provinces.  Even 
in  the  north  the  policy  for  which  he  stands  will  not 
necessarily  continue  beyond  his  life. 

The  one  factor  in  the  situation  which  can  be 
counted  upon  to  endure  is  the  loyalty  to  existing 
institutions  of  the  Chinese  people.  I was  shown 
notices  in  Chinese  character,  pasted  on  the  walls  of 
Peking,  inviting  subscriptions  to  a fund  for  paying 
off  the  foreign  debt.  This  fund  was  started 
privately  by  a Chinese  newspaper  and  is  supported 
by  voluntary  subscriptions  only,  yet  it  already  totals 
thirty  thousand  pounds — a sum  which  means  in 
China  a very  great  deal  more  than  in  Europe.  It 
appeals  to  private  endeavour  to  enable  the  dynasty 
to  abstain  from  levying  new  taxes  to  pay  European 
claims  for  Boxer  outrages  ; and  the  spirit  which  is 
behind  it  is  the  strongest  that  exists  in  China.  The 
country  is  used  to  misgovernment,  or  rather  to 
absence  of  government ; but  innovation,  and  par- 
ticularly foreign  innovation,  is  so  resented  that  any 
scheme,  no  matter  how  preposterous,  which  claims 
to  operate  in  the  direction  of  ending  it  finds  ready 
support.  The  new  Peking  bids  fair  to  be  sur- 
prisingly like  the  old. 


Ii6 


THE  PEKING  OF  TO-DAY 


The  point  of  assimilation  in  methods,  and  even 
in  morals,  will  no  doubt  some  day  come,  and  when 
it  does  we  may  look  for  a tremendous  accompani- 
ment. At  present  Western  ideas  seem  little  more 
than  boats  upon  the  old  ocean  of  the  Chinese  con- 
sciousness. The  mind  of  Kuang  Hsii  s four  hun- 
dred million  subjects  still  sways  to  its  own  laws, 
and  pays  little  permanent  heed  to  the  disturbing 
splash  of  alien  oarsmen. 


CHAPTER  X 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 

WIND-SWEPT  sand-spit,  jutting  out  into 


the  Pichihli  Gulf,  with  a few  corrugated  iron 
sheds,  some  rough  stone  bungalows,  a pile  pier  and 
an  open  log-built  railway  platform,  complete  the 
equipment  of  Chen-wang-tao,  the  ice-free  winter 
port  of  Peking  and  Tientsin,  and  the  place  of  ship- 
ment of  the  fifty  thousand  Chinese  coolies  whose 
presence  on  the  Rand  has  produced  such  heart- 
searchings  in  political  England.  One  reaches  the 
place  in  four  or  five  hours  from  Tientsin  by  one  oi 
the  many  north-bound  trains  carrying  cattle  and 
farm  supplies  to  restock  devastated  areas  in  Man- 
churia. Chen-wang-tao’s  hotel  accommodation  is 
designed  for  the  coolies  only.  I went  commended, 
however,  to  the  Protector  of  Emigrants  for  the 
Transvaal,  who  very  kindly  put  me  up  and  showed 
me  all  there  was  to  see  of  the  recruitment  at  this 


The  coolie  depot  stands  back  under  the  lee  of 
the  ridge,  where  there  is  some  slight  shelter.  We 
ploughed  through  soft,  heavy  sand  to  the  courtyard 
where  the  ground  was  gravelled.  The  coolies  are 


point. 


ii8  THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 


housed  in  spacious  quarters  with  walls  of  stone  and 
roofs  of  red  iron.  The  accessories,  from  the  police 
guard  supplied  by  the  Chinese  Government,  to  the 
tank  of  hot  water  in  which  the  coolies  attain  much- 
needed  cleanliness,  are  upon  a business-like  and 
liberal  scale.  I was  in  time  to  inspect  one  of  the 
last  of  the  gangs  of  coolies  to  be  despatched  to 
South  Africa.  It  was  soon  after  dawn  when  I 
reached  the  depot  and  the  morning  was  chilly. 
From  the  dormitories,  as  I approached,  came 
cheerful  sounds  of  loud  talk  and  lusty  laughter, 
which  suggested  anything  but  the  low  spirits  of  a 
downtrodden  people,  or  dissatisfaction  with  the 
contract  that  was  being  completed.  I went  inside 
in  company  with  my  host.  We  were  at  once  sur- 
rounded by  a crowd  of  coolies,  all  immensely 
interested  in  examining  myself  and  my  garments, 
for  a new  foreigner  is  a whole  variety  entertain- 
ment to  persons  waiting  for  a ship  at  Chen-wang- 
tao.  The  coolies  had  decided  that  they  wanted  a 
fire  to  beguile  their  leisure,  and  they  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  assail  my  companion  with  voluble  demands 
to  give  it  to  them. 

They  insisted  like  spoilt  children. 

“ Look  at  this  foreigner’s  clothes,”  said  one  of 
them,  in  illustration  of  his  argument,  as  he  took 
hold  familiarly  of  my  coat,  and  felt  the  texture  of 
the  cloth.  “It  is  thicker  than  ours.” 

Their  own  clothes  were  of  substantial  blue  cotton 
cloth,  in  some  cases  single,  in  others  padded  with 
cotton-wool,  and  at  least  as  warm  as  anything  they 


I WAS  IN  TIME  TO  INSPECT  ONE  OF  THE  LAST  OF  THE  GANGS  OF 
COOLIES  TO  P,E  DESPATCHED  TO  SOUTH  AFRICA 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  119 


would  have  worn  under  similar  circumstances  at 
home,  where  fuel  would  have  been  far  too  expensive 
to  play  w^ith.  The  noisiest  of  the  crew  was  a youth 
of  some  eighteen  or  twenty  years  of  age,  with 
the  copper- coloured  skin,  angular  cheekbones,  and 
argumentative  voice  of  the  Tientsin  street  arab. 
He  pushed  his  companions  in  the  ribs  to  prevent 
their  interrupting  his  own  strident  vociferation. 
Close  to  him  in  the  group  was  a coolie  of  a very 
different  type,  with  wheat-coloured  oval  countenance 
moulded  to  the  round  outlines  of  a contemplative 
Mongolian  Buddha.  The  rest  varied  between  these 
widely  separated  extremes. 

The  coolie-lines  are  within  a walled  enclosure, 
which  also  contains  kitchen,  offices,  and  a long  series 
of  rooms  through  which  the  coolies  pass  on  their 
way  to  the  railway-siding,  whence  a train  carries 
them  to  their  ship.  Within  these  rooms  the 
coolies  are  stripped,  washed,  medically  examined, 
arrayed  in  new  clothes,  supplied  with  necessaries, 
and  subjected  to  magisterial  interrogation  by 
Chinese  officials  appointed  to  look  after  their 
interests,  and  to  secure  that  they  shall  understand 
the  nature  of  the  contracts  that  they  sign.  Each 
man  receives  an  advance  of  thirty  Chinese  dollars 
{£3)  before  he  leaves  the  yard.  He  then  inter- 
views through  a grille  any  relations  who  may  be 
there  to  see  him  off,  and  goes  on  board  not  only 
clean  and  comfortably  attired,  but  also  triumphant, 
for  the  service  is  so  sought  after  that  only  a portion 
of  those  who  apply  for  it  can  be  selected. 


120  THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 


The  resident  staff  includes  a European  doctor,  a 
mandarin  protector  of  emigrants  appointed  by  the 
Peking  Government,  my  friend  the  representative 
of  the  Transvaal  Government,  and  a manager 
appointed  by  the  Johannesburg  Chamber  of  Mines, 
who  happened  to  be  a Canadian.  The  coolies  are 
thus  under  official  protection  of  both  the  country 
from  which  they  start  and  that  to  which  they  go. 
They  make  the  fullest  use  of  all  the  facilities  that 
are  afforded  to  them. 

In  Tientsin  resides  a European  recruiting-agent 
appointed  by  the  Johannesburg  Chamber  of  Mines, 
who  supervises  a number  of  Chinese  sub-agents  in 
the  various  districts  of  North  China  from  which  the 
coolies  are  drawn.  I visited  the  main  office  in 
Tientsin  city,  where  a small  Chinese  staff  is  main- 
tained under  European  direction  for  the  special 
purpose  of  paying  to  families  in  China  the  allow- 
ances sent  by  coolies  upon  the  Rand.  Some  eight 
thousand  out  of  the  fifty  thousand  shipped  to  South 
Africa  send  such  remittances  to  their  homes.  The 
total  paid  out  monthly  in  Tientsin  amounts  to  about 
forty  thousand  Chinese  dollars  (£4,000),  The 
average  individual  remittance  is  five  dollars — a sum 
sufficient  for  the  maintenance  for  that  time  of  a 
workman’s  family  on  the  scale  of  comfort  usual  in 
the  country.  A coolie  on  the  Rand  receives  a 
minimum  of  fifteen  dollars  monthly.  He  may 
double  his  earnings  by  doing  piece-work,  and  can 
count  in  any  case  upon  receiving  the  minimum,  so 
long  as  he  lives  and  behaves  himself.  His  contract 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  121 


is  for  three  years.  At  the  end  of  that  period  he 
receives  a free  passage  back  to  China,  and  must 
either  avail  himself  of  it  or  sign  on  for  a further 
period  of  indentured  service.  A good  many  bad 
characters  managed  to  get  shipped  at  first  and  have 
since  had  to  be  sent  back  to  China.  In  a few  cases 
the  words  “ Once  repatriated  ” appear  upon  the 
history  sheet  of  a coolie.  They  mean  that  the  man 
has  got  out  again,  after  having  been  sent  back  as 
undesirable.  This  occurred  in  the  early  days  of  the 
undertaking,  before  the  present  system  of  super- 
vision had  been  perfected.  It  is  now  but  very 
seldom  that  a man  who  has  once  been  rejected 
succeeds  in  getting  accepted  in  a fresh  outgoing 
batch  ; but  some  Tientsin  bad  characters  boast  that 
they  have  done  so,  and  thereby  twice  secured  the 
thirty-dollar  advance,  besides  four  passages  forwards 
and  backwards  between  Chen-wang-tao  and  Johan- 
nesburg, at  the  expense  of  the  mines.  When  the 
system  of  finger-print  identification,  which  is  under 
introduction,  is  in  full  working,  such  incidents  will 
become  impossible.  That  they  should  have  occurred 
in  the  past  shows  how  popular  is  emigration  amongst 
the  people  concerned.  The  “ two-times- 1 -go  ” men 
have  had  their  day. 

I watched  a gang  of  countrymen  passing  through 
the  office  to  receive  remittances  sent  to  them  by 
relatives  on  the  Rand;  for,  as  I have  explained, 
neither  the  Chinese  post-office  nor  the  native 
bankers  are  trusted  with  any  large  portion  of  the 
remitting.  Of  the  coolies  I talked  to  through  an 


122  THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 


interpreter,  one  was  a weather-worn  farmer,  who 
had  come  in  seventy  miles  by  boat  to  collect  money 
from  his  son  at  the  mines.  His  eye  softened  as  five 
solid  silver  dollars  were  counted  into  his  hand.  He 
said  no  word  ; but  now  he  knew  for  certain  that  the 
son  who  had  stolen  away  from  home  in  hasty  quarrel 
was  alive,  for  had  not  the  clerks  searched  through 
the  register  and  not  found  against  his  name  any  of 
those  red-ink  entries  of  “ deceased,”  “ deserted,”  or 
“ repatriated,”  which  would  have  meant  sorrow  or 
disgrace  or  both  ? The  old  man  was  in  no  great 
want  of  the  money.  His  blue  cotton  coat  and  leg- 
clothes  and  parti-coloured  felt  boots  were  warm  and 
in  good  repair.  He  carried  a substantial  umbrella 
of  yellow  bamboo  and  black-painted  paper,  that  had 
cost  forty  cents  quite  recently.  His  crops  this  year 
were  heavy.  The  remittance  would  be  added  to 
previous  hoardings  for  buying  land,  and  two  seasons 
hence,  when  “Hu  of  the  Great  Happiness”  (Hu 
Tu  Fu)  should  come  home  after  his  three  years’ 
venture,  there  would  be  no  more  running  away  to 
Africa. 

A small,  crooked-eyed  man  in  grey  had  walked  in 
twenty  miles  by  road  to  cash  an  allowance  which  had 
been  sent  by  his  cousin.  This  cousin,  he  explained, 
had  lived  in  his  house  when  times  had  been  hard, 
and  was  now  faithfully  discharging  his  debt  for  the 
kindness  he  had  received.  A poor  blear-eyed 
creature,  with  contracted  putty-coloured  face,  and 
tiny  brass  opium  pipe  dangling  by  a chain  from  a 
shaky  wrist,  was  there  to  cash  a remittance  sent 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  123 


him  by  a brother.  He  would  spend  the  money  no 
doubt  on  the  drug  he  could  no  longer  do  without. 

A middle-aged  peasant  had  brought  a straw-paper 
envelope  covered  with  black  hieroglyphics  upon  a 
red  address-slip,  which  contained  a letter  of  home 
news  and  shrewd  advice  to  be  posted  to  an  absent 
son.  In  a rack  above  the  door  were  a dozen  similar 
missives,  frayed  and  soiled  from  the  handling  they 
had  received  on  their  journey  from  the  Rand,  but 
safe  and  ready  for  delivery  to  whoever  should 
identify  his  own  name  in  the  addresses  they 
displayed. 

Inside  the  office  were  leather-bound  books  with 
long  columns  of  entries  which  told  how  dutiful  “ Li 
of  the  Everlasting  Harmony”  (Li  Yung  Ho)  had 
paid  to  his  old  father  “ Li  the  Forest  Ranger  ” (Li 
Tso  Liu),  every  month  regularly  for  more  than  a 
year,  what  would  keep  the  whole  family  in  comfort 
at  home.  I learnt  that  the  “ Prince  of  the  Old 
Hostel  ” (Wang  Lao  Tin)  had  not  been  to  collect 
the  remittance  sent  by  his  nephew,  the  “ Prince  of 
the  Sea  Gate”  (Wang  Hai  Men)  for  three  months, 
though  the  money  was  lying  there  waiting  for  him. 
I ascertained  that  “Fang’s”  wife,  whose  family 
name  as  a maiden  had  been  “ Li  ” (Fang  Li  Shih), 
for  women  in  China  have  no  first  names,  had  col- 
lected two  months’  remittance  from  her  loving  son, 
“ Fang  the  Pillar  ” (Fang  Chu). 

A drawer  full  of  small  black  bank-books  in  neat 
leather  cases  represented  the  accounts  of  coolies 
who  had  remitted  for  a time  and  then  decided  to 


124  the  coolie  traffic  in  CHIHLI 


send  no  more.  Long  columns  on  thin,  yellow  note- 
paper  told  to  him  who  could  decipher  them  of 
complicated  disputes  about  the  ownership  of  money. 

“ I came  away  to  Africa  and  trusted  to  Kao  San 
to  draw  my  wages  for  my  family  ; and  I think  that, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  I do  not  know  where  this 
man  lives  in  China,  or  whether  Kao  San  is  his 
rightful  name,  I am  afraid  I shall  lose  the  money 
I am  working  for  here,”  wrote  confiding  Pao  Wu 
Yuan,  who  had  handed  over  his  signed  remittance 
sheets  to  a casual  acquaintance  upon  the  road,  and 
now  besought  the  European  general  manager  to 
recover  the  documents. 

“ I ran  away  from  home.  My  mother  s name  is 
Chao  Chung,  and  she  is  not  a widow,”  began  a 
complicated  letter  in  which  Chu  Ho  explained  that 
the  lady  he  had  nominated  to  receive  his  remittances 
was  not  what  he  had  represented  her  to  be,  and 
asked  that  the  money  should  now  be  applied 
elsewhere. 

I learnt  from  a neat  Chinese  clerk,  whom  I found 
painting  his  language  into  a book,  that  a picture  of  a 
windmill  stands  for  the  name  of  the  province  Chihli, 
and  that  two  black  hooks  hanging  precariously  to 
two  upright  strokes  signify  the  hinged  gate  which 
they  roughly  portray.  I was  reminded  besides  that 
writing  in  Chinese  still  requires  artistic  talent,  and 
that  the  accomplished  work  is  of  a kind  to  make  the 
author  justly  proud.  I know  no  country  but  China 
where  even  the  hasty  scribbling  of  a pencil  note 
attracts  respectful  curiosity,  nor  shall  I forget  the 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  125 


comfortable  assurance  of  a highly  educated  English- 
speaking  secretary,  in  a Governor  s yamen,  who, 
when  bidden  by  the  Governor  to  translate  what  I 
had  taken  down,  disregarded  my  well-intentioned 
promptings  and  said  with  superiority,  after  ex- 
amining my  notebook,  that  my  writing  was  in 
“ the  running  hand,”  and  therefore  undecipherable. 

Tientsin  is  one  of  the  many  dusty  cities  of  China. 
One  is  tempted  to  wonder  how  long  would  elapse 
before  one’s  own  eyes  would  screw  themselves  into 
the  crookedness  of  those  of  its  Mongolian  inhabitants 
if  one  were  compelled  to  stay  there.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  dust,  Tientsin  is  a healthy  place  of  residence 
even  for  Europeans.  In  the  matter  of  material 
prosperity  the  city  promises  eventually  to  rival  such 
busy  centres  as  Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai.  Its 
foreign  settlement  already  possesses  broad  streets 
and  substantial  houses,  and  is  becoming  an  example 
of  the  immensity  of  the  possibilities  of  commercial 
development  in  China  wherever  trade  is  encouraged. 
This  is  the  more  significant  as  nothing  bigger  than 
a coasting  steamer  can  get  up  the  narrow  river  to 
the  wharves,  and  the  port  is  closed  by  ice  for 
several  months  each  year.  The  trade  during  the 
winter  finds  an  outlet  at  Chen-wang-tao,  where 
vessels  lie  in  an  open  roadstead  of  the  Pichili 
Gulf. 

The  Chen-wang-tao  harbour  is  the  property  of 
the  Chinese  Engineering  and  Mining  Company, 
which  of  recent  years  has  had  as  managers  two 


126  THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 


Anglo-Indians,  Mr.  Wynne,  now  a member  of  the 
Indian  Railway  Board,  and  Major  Nathan,  who,  I 
understand,  began  his  Eastern  career  in  the  Indian 
Public  Works  Department.  This  is  a flourishing 
concern,  in  spite  of  a serious  .dispute  in  which  it 
is  engaged  with  the  Chinese  Government  as  to  the 
ownership  of  the  extensive  properties  it  controls. 
Its  mines  are  situated  between  Chen-wang-tao  and 
Tientsin,  and  are  turning  out  anything  from  two 
hundred  thousand  to  a million  tons  of  coal  per 
annum,  of  very  fair  quality,  which  is  in  use  through- 
out the  whole  of  Northern  China.  The  demand 
for  this  coal  so  far  exceeds  the  supply  that  I found 
Tientsin  merchants  groaning  almost  as  loudly  as 
those  of  Calcutta  upon  the  subject  of  their  difficul- 
ties; but  this  state  of  things  appears  to  have  been 
only  temporary.  Recently  the  company  has  won 
one  lawsuit  brought  by  the  Chinese  Government  to 
secure  a'  determining  voice  in  its  direction  ; but  an 
appeal  has  yet  to  be  heard.  Meanwhile  one  may 
recognise  the  competence  of  the  present  manage- 
ment in  the  excellent  thirty-ton  coal-wagons  of 
uniform  bogie  pattern  fitted  with  automatic  coup- 
lings, which  are  in  use  for  carrying  the  coal  to 
Chen-wang-tao  for  shipment  to  ports  along  the  coast. 
These  wagons  compare  favourably  not  only  with 
such  trucks  as  I have  seen  elsewhere  in  China,  but 
also  with  the  heterogeneous  collection  of  miscel- 
laneous-pattern rolling-stock  to  be  seen  in  India 
plying  to  the  docks  of  Calcutta.  Both  Tientsin 
and  Chen-wang-tao  make  an  enormous  demand  upon 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  127 


the  country  for  labour ; but  the  supply  appears  to  be 
inexhaustible. 

From  Chen-wang-tao  I went  by  rail  along  the 
coast  to  Shan-hai-kwan  (“  Between  the  Mountain 
and  the  Sea  ”),  the  queer  old  fortified  city  where  the 
three  thousand  miles  of  grey  brick  towers  and  earth- 
backed  battlements,  which  are  the  Great  Wall  of 
China,  end  upon  the  shore  of  the  Pichihli  Gulf.  A 
springless  mule  cart,  with  gowned  Manchu  driver, 
rendered  possible  but  penible  the  crossing  of  the 
stony  gravel-heaped  plain  upon  which  the  city  is 
built.  Thence  I scrambled  on  foot  some  hundreds 
of  feet  up  steep,  grassy  rocks  amidst  clumps  of 
scentless  violets  and  dwarf  oak-trees.  Personal 
comments  from  unsympathetic  local  riffraff,  who  are 
the  foreigner’s  bane  in  China,  punctuated  my  exer- 
tions. The  summit  had  its  village  and  a cheap, 
gaudy  joss-house.  Upon  .one  side  the  loneliness 
of  a dark,  wooded  gorge  was  broken  by  a white 
mountain  stream  in  a setting  of  yellow  sand  ; and 
on  the  other  stretched  the  cheerful  humanity  of  a 
wide  rolling  plain,  where  the  ochre  earth  glistened 
through  seedling  crops  to  end  sharply  in  the  blue 
expanse  of  the  Pichihli  Gulf. 

The  city  of  Shan-hai-kwan,  with  its  grey  castel- 
lated walls  and  gateways,  is  an  irregular  patch 
where  the  plain  is  cut  in  two  by  a long,  sharp 
line  of  earthwork  which  connects  the  square 
keeps  upon  the  mountain  with  the  shore  of  the 
gulf.  A shallow,  winding  river  breaks  through 
a narrow  gap  in  the  ruined  fortifications  at  the 


128  THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI 


foot  of  the  mountain.  Behind  the  slopes  rise 
steeply ; and  height  beyond  height  is  crowned 
with  grey  stone  towers  that  stand  out  against 
the  sunset.  On  the  green  earth-banked  side 
of  the  wall  lies  multitudinous  China.  On  its 
steep,  crenulated  side  stretches  spacious  Manchuria. 
The  broken  parapets  have  no  modern  use.  The 
virile  northern  barbarian  they  so  long  held  at  bay 
rules  the  softer  and  more  industrious  southerner 
who  built  them.  The  mail  train  draws  up  for  the 
night  under  the  ruined  masonry ; but  that  is  only 
because  hurry  is  unknown  in  leisurely  Northern 
China.  Shan-hai-kwan  is  a frontier  post  no 
longer. 

Another  twelve  hours*  journey  along  the  sea- 
coast,  through  a country  which  cold  rain  had  sud- 
denly converted  into  a slough  of  slippery  mud, 
brought  me  to  the  terminus  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Liao-ho.  Here  I was  deposited  upon  a 
bare  spit  of  mud,  with  leaden-coloured  water 
lashing  itself  into  anger  upon  either  side.  A leaky 
dinghy  with  Manchu  boatmen  ferried  me  pre- 
cariously across  to  the  wharves  of  Neuchwang. 

The  province  of  Chihli  through  which  I had 
thus  passed  was  selected  by  the  Johannesburg 
Chamber  of  Mines  as  the  recruiting  ground  for 
coolies  for  the  Rand  with  excellent  reason.  It 
teems  with  hardy  labour.  Upon  the  platforms 
of  wayside  stations  where  the  train  drew  up  were 
crowds  of  immensely  powerful  countrymen  standing 
about  in  the  rain  in  rough  yellow  oilskins,  presum- 


THE  SWAMPY  HARI^OUR  OF  NEUCHWANG 


THE  COOLIE  TRAFFIC  IN  CHIHLI  129 


ably  to  guard  the  line.  The  train  was  full  of  their 
friends  and  brothers  going  backwards  and  forwards 
between  their  work  and  their  villages.  The  streets 
of  Tientsin  were  black  with  stalwart  workmen 
busily  following  their  respective  trades,  who  gave 
an  impression  of  numbers  and  of  hardihood  that 
I formed  in  no  other  city.  Yuan-Shih-Kai  has 
raised  the  bulk  of  his  seventy  thousand  soldiers 
in  the  province  without  materially  reducing  the 
supply  of  men  available.  The  fifty  thousand 
coolies  shipped  to  South  Africa  have  been  but 
a fraction  of  the  balance.  There  remains  a source 
of  rough  and  ill-mannered,  but  also  industrious  and 
capable  labour,  which  is  available  for  transportation 
to  any  field,  no  matter  how  distant,  that  can  offer 
good  wages.  Unlike  the  Indian  coolie,  the  Chinese 
has  no  fear  of  the  sea,  no  caste  to  break  by  crossing 
it,  and  no  levitical  penalties  to  face  when  he  returns. 
He  is  also  content  to  leave  his  women  at  home, 
and  thus  the  problem  of  dealing  with  him  in  ex- 
patriation is  simplified.  He  is  the  true  industrial 
adventurer.  Political  danger  may  lurk  in  too 
greedy  an  appreciation  of  him  ; but  there  is  no 
doubt  that  he  stores  in  his  stout  body  much  of  the 
energy  which  is  needed  to  furnish  the  industries  of 
the  modern  world. 


CHAPTER  XI 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 

IN  traversing  China  from  Shanghai  to  the  Great 
Wall  my  passport  was  not  once  asked  for.  I 
was  free  with  all  the  world  to  go  or  come  as  I would. 
On  reaching  the  confines  of  Manchuria  this  was 
no  longer  the  case.  Manchuria  was  closed  to  all 
foreigners  except  Japanese,  who  were  pouring  in  and 
out  freely.  A prompt  exception  was  made  in  favour 
of  accredited  British  officers,  who  were  admitted  as 
honoured  guests,  guided  over  the  battlefields,  and 
passed  on  from  one  hospitable  military  headquarters 
to  another.  A civilian  had  first,  upon  one  or  two 
points,  to  establish  his  character.  I was  closely  ex- 
amined by  the  Japanese  Administration  at  Neuch- 
wang  as  to  the  objects  of  my  journey.  I was 
suspected  of  trade  samples  and  observed  for  invoices. 
I might  have  had  piece-goods  in  my  pocket,  a com- 
prador in  my  kit-bag,  a street  railway  up  my  sleeve. 
Never  was  the  fourth  estate  more  diligently  sworn 
to  or  more  difficult  to  establish.  Official  telegrams 
flew  between  the  Administrator  of  Neuchwang  and 
the  Governor  of  Port  Arthur.  I was  beginning  to 


132 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


feel  what  it  is  to  be  an  undesirable  alien,  when  the 
reply  from  Port  Arthur  arrived,  and  I found  myself 
suddenly  transformed  into  a friend.  I was  called 
upon  and  entertained,  and  not  allowed  to  pay  my 
own  way  upon  the  railway.  I found  myself  shep- 
herded wherever  I went.  A launch,  courteously 
furnished  by  the  Japanese  Administrator,  conveyed 
me  to  the  terminus  of  the  railway  which  is  a couple 
of  miles  outside  Neuchwang.  A Japanese  officer 
who  spoke  excellent  English  saw  me  off. 

The  railway  station  of  Neuchwang  exemplifies 
what  I found  afterwards  throughout  both  Manchuria 
and  Korea.  It  is  located  away  from  the  existing 
city,  to  enable  the  land  around  it  to  be  taken  up  for  a 
Japanese  settlement,  the  Administration  recognising, 
with  careful  foresight,  that  such  land  is  certain  to 
become  valuable.  The  city,  in  fact,  is  to  move  to 
the  railway,  not  the  railway  to  the  city.  Regular 
traffic — for  Japanese  only — had  been  resumed  upon 
the  line.  The  train  was  full  of  Japanese,  including 
military  men,  coolies,  and  traders.  We  changed  to 
the  main  line  from  Harbin  in  the  night.  After  that 
the  train  ran  through  to  the  junction  for  Dalny, 
whence  a branch  carried  us  to  our  destination,  the 
entire  journey  taking  only  about  sixteen  hours. 

The  line  traverses  the  Liaotung  peninsula  from 
one  end  to  the  other.  The  fields  are  stony,  the  crops 
on  the  ground  poor.  Bare,  round-topped  kopjes, 
from  which  every  tree  has  disappeared,  give  narrow 
horizon  to  the  landscape.  The  country  grows 
wilder  and  more  rugged  as  the  train  moves  south. 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


133 


The  ruins  of  grey  brick  houses,  with  big  Russian 
windows,  and  broken,  pagoda-tiled  roofs,  shiver 
naked,  in  the  cold  rain,  about  the  railway  stations. 
This  grey  brick  is  one  of  the  most  characteristic 
urban  features  of  China,  and  it  does  not  add  to  the 
cheerfulness  of  a damaged  town.  Holes,  torn  in 
the  walls  by  shell-fire,  expose  the  ddbris  of  enormous 
Russian  stoves,  of  iron  or  glazed  earthenware.  The 
names  of  the  stations  are  still  in  the  Russian 
character.  Smart  Japanese,  in  uniforms  borrowed 
from  Germany  and  France,  inquire  pleasantly  for 
one’s  passport,  usually  with  at  least  an  English 
“ Thank  you,”  to  go  with  the  bow.  The  document 
is  so  often  asked  for  that  one  feels  inclined  to  put  it 
where  the  American  traveller  puts  his  railway  ticket, 
in  one’s  hat. 

The  Chinese  inhabitant  of  the  country  is  curiously 
scarce.  Occasionally  he  hawks  a big  basket  of 
excellent  boiled  eggs  upon  the  platform,  but  even 
hawking  is  done  more  often  by  a Japanese  coolie. 
Now  and  again  the  train  passes  the  wretched  mud 
hovels  of  a Chinese  village.  The  fields  are  culti- 
vated along  the  railway,  but  the  long,  blue  coat 
which  proclaims  the  Chinese  villager,  is  seen  but 
little  upon  the  line.  The  Chinese  women  have 
crept  back  out  of  their  hiding-places  ; the  men 
never  entirely  deserted  their  fields.  The  slaughter 
and  license  of  the  long  campaign  have  left  the 
survivors  numb.  If  the  British  were  in  the  place  of 
the  Japanese  they  would  have  large  gangs  of  the 
inhabitants  at  work  at  every  station,  restoring  the 


134 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


houses,  building  feeder-roads  into  the  interior,  and 
incidentally  earning  money  that  would  bring  back 
prosperity.  Unlike  the  Japanese,  we  might  forget 
that  we  were  under  contract  to  quit ; but  the  country 
would  present  a less  depressing  spectacle  than  at 
present. 

The  kopjes  link  themselves  together  as  the 
train  approaches  the  narrow  neck  of  the  Port 
Arthur  peninsula.  The  , steep,  pale-green  slopes 
are  scarred  with  red  where  the  drainage  has  cut 
vertically  into  the  soil,  making  channels  which  are 
natural  shelter-trenches.  Grey  rocks,  behind  each 
of  which  a defender  might  crouch  in  comparative 
safety  from  rifle  fire,  jostle  each  other  in  crowded 
masses.  One  traverses  the  isthmus  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  and  may  obtain  an  excellent  view  of 
the  positions  held  by  both  the  Russians  and  the 
Japanese  in  the  big  fight  which  preceded  the  Port 
Arthur  siege.  The  isthmus  is  so  completely  com- 
manded by  the  kopjes  which  General  Stoessel 
fortified,  that  the  feat  of  the  Japanese  in  capturing 
it  seems  as  incredible  as  any  other  performance  of 
the  war.  I passed  twice  over  the  spot,  once  on 
my  way  to  Port  Arthur,  and  once,  afterwards, 
going  north  into  Manchuria.  The  route  is  a 
good  one  to  take  on  the  way  to  Port  Arthur  ; for 
a view  of  this  preliminary  battlefield  prepares  one 
for  the  further  proofs  of  disparity  in  fighting 
efficiency,  between  attackers  and  defenders,  which 
stare  from  the  shell-torn  defences  of  what  in  other 
hands  might  have  proved  an  impregnable  citadel. 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


135 


Before  entering  Port  Arthur  the  train  picks  its 
way  round  the  exposed,  stony  slopes  of  203  Metre 
Hill.  The  traveller  has  but  to  put  his  head  out 
of  the  train  window  to  obtain  an  idea  of  the  over- 
whelming difficulty  of  the  task  performed  by 
General  Nogi’s  devoted  army.  The  height  which 
cost  ten  thousand  men  to  capture  has  nothing  to 
shelter  its  occupants  from  the  pitiless  fire  of  well- 
built  Russian  forts.  The  ridge  is  torn  to  pieces 
on  the  top,  and  burrowed  into  at  the  sides,  until  it 
has  become  a mere  stony  rubbish-heap.  Later  on, 
when  I had  quitted  the  train  and  obtained  the 
necessary  permission  of  the  authorities  to  go  over 
the  defences,  I had  opportunity  of  seeing  that  the 
position  of  the  Japanese,  after  they  had  captured 
the  height,  must  have  been  very  similar  to  that 
of  the  British  upon  Spion  Kop.  The  trenches  of 
the  Russian  defenders  are  obscured  by  the  super- 
imposed Japanese  works,  facing  in  the  opposite 
direction.  The  whole  has  since  been  demolished 
to  remove  the  bodies,  for  the  parapets  were  con- 
structed of  more  than  stones  and  earth,  wounded, 
as  well  as  dead,  getting  built  into  them  in  the 
frantic  haste  of  men  endeavouring  to  shelter 
themselves  from  overwhelming  shell-fire.  Even 
now  the  entire  surface  is  strewn  with  distorted 
shrapnel-bullets,  and  rusty  shell-fragments ; and 
every  shower  washes  additional  mementos  out  of 
the’  ground. 

From  the  summit  of  the  hill  one  sees  the  whole 
of  the  harbour  of  Port  Arthur  spread  out  below. 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


136 

in  wide  green  expanse.  No  glasses  are  requisite 
to  make  out  the  two  Russian  war-vessels,  still 
awash  upon  a mud-flat,  where  they  sank  under 
Japanese  howitzer-fire  directed  from  the  captured 
height.  The  grey  city  and  its  numerous  suburbs 
stretch  out  into  the  distance,  beside  and  beyond 
the  broad,  white  quays.  It  is  easy  to  recognise 
the  decisive  nature  of  the  position  for  which  the 
Japanese  deliberately  paid  so  terrible  a price. 

Purple  violets,  white-flowered  Siberian  edelweiss, 
green  thyme  and  grey-leafed  wormwood  are  aiding 
sparse  grass,  dark  dwarf  pines  and  brown-leafed 
Chinese  oaks  to  cover  up  what  has  been.  The 
curious  must  also  be  careful,  for  at  his  feet,  amid 
the  stones,  are  green,  corroded  buttons  still  attached 
to  the  matted  fur  of  a grey  Russian  overcoat,  and 
from  the  collar  protrudes  a column  of  dry,  yellow 
cartilage  and  bone.  That  brown,  mouldy,  Japanese 
jack-boot,  too,  cast  out  so  carelessly  amongst 
weather-worn  rags  of  what  once  were  Calcutta- 
made  jute  sand-bags,  lies  more  heavily  upon  its 
side  than  an  empty  boot  should  lie.  A piece  of 
a human  jawbone,  showing  white  where  the  young 
sound  molars  are  smashed,  rolls  down  the  bare, 
steep  incline  with  a loosened  stone. 

Throughout  the  long  line  of  eastern  forts,  where 
the  fierce  attack  of  August,  1904,  failed  to  break 
the  defence,  the  ground  is  equally  eloquent  of  the 
struggle.  The  green  turf  of  the  steep  hillsides 
is  splashed  with  brown  holes  where  gun-shots 
have  struck.  The  wrecks  of  guns  of  position 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


137 


are  strewn  along  the  crest.  The  stony  slopes 
below  are  burrowed  in  all  directions  by  mines, 
counter-mines,  and  trenches.  A stick  of  yellow 
dynamite,  still  ready  to  explode,  lies  between  two 
pebbles  in  a whitey-brown  paper  wrapper  on  which 
the  name  of  its  German  maker  stands  out  in  bold, 
black  type.  Rusty  hand-grenade  tins,  dented,  but 
in  many  cases  unexploded,  lie  where  they  were 
hurled  at  approaching  Japanese.  Live  shells,  also 
too  liable  to  go  off  unexpectedly  for  the  casual 
visitor  to  annex,  may  still  be  picked  up  in  quantity, 
including  baby  pompom  projectiles  and  the  missiles 
of  the  heavier  guns  ; for  many  percussion  fuses 
did  not  strike  fair  on  impact,  shells  often  alight- 
ing with  the  wrong  end  foremost  and  failing,  in 
consequence,  to  explode  at  first.  Enormous 
masses  of  pebbly  concrete,  with  the  ddbris  of 
six-inch  guns,  smashed  and  hurled  hundreds  of 
feet  from  the  forts  which  the  Russians  blew  up, 
are  still  scattered  amidst  the  ruins.  One  may 
look  down  a dark,  underground  passage,  dug 
by  the  Japanese  into  the  heart  of  one  of  the 
Russian  works,  and  terminating  there  in  the 
gaping  hole  of  an  exploded  mine,  and  wander 
along  miles  of  tangled  barbed-wire,  and  bristling 
stake-pits.  Sunken  spots  and  patches  of  green 
weeds  and  grass,  in  otherwise  sterile  ground,  tell 
a continual  tale  of  what  lies  in  shallow  graves 
beneath  the  surface.  The  authorities  have  endea- 
voured to  burn  with  kerosine  oil  whatever  was 
incapable  of  interment ; but  the  Japanese  officers 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


138 

and  men  who  are  pouring  into  Port  Arthur,  on 
their  way  home  from  Manchuria,  will  long  find 
only  too  graphic  evidence  for  all  their  senses,  of 
the  fighting.  Coolies  are  sifting  out  of  exposed 
banks  along  the  Russian  works,  incredible  quantities 
of  pencil-shaped  bullets  marked  with  the  spiral  that 
tells  of  their  having  been  fired  from  Japanese  rifles. 

Port  Arthur  is  holy  ground  for  all  Japan,  but  the 
old  Samurai  families  have  left  there  so  many  of  their 
best  and  bravest  that  they  can  claim  it  especially 
their  own.  Officers  on  duty,  in  far  Manchurian 
stations,  still  speak  with  simple  philosophy  of  the 
friends  they  have  lost.  I have  seen  flowers,  picked 
from  the  battlefields,  treasured  in  little  pocket-books 
by  sunburnt  veterans  who  would  have  seemed  the 
last  to  indulge  in  sentiment.  The  long,  white  name- 
flags  of  the  slain  no  longer  hang  beneath  the  red 
and  white  Japanese  national  banner  in  the  villages 
of  gallant  Kiusiu  ; but  every  straw-roofed  maisonette 
will  treasure  some  memento  of  the  fields  where 
husbands  and  sons  gave  their  lives  freely  and  gladly 
for  their  country. 

Within  the  defences,  the  city  of  Port  Arthur  is 
depressingly  desolate.  Whole  terraces  of  fine  Russian 
houses  stand  empty  and  dilapidated.  Japanese  coolies 
have  been  imported  in  large  numbers,  in  connection 
with  such  works  as  the  raising  of  the  sunken  battle- 
ships and  the  building  of  the  new  Japanese  forts 
upon  Golden  Hill  ; and  they  now  ply  with  jinrick- 
shaws for  hire  in  the  streets.  Japanese  shopkeepers 
have  opened  stores  of  all  kinds  for  the  use  of  the 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


139 


garrison ; but  there  is  no  demand  for  good  accom- 
modation. The  buildings  struck  by  shells  during 
the  siege  are  generally  in  ruins.  No  attempt  has 
been  made  to  alter  the  fire-scorched  heap  which  is 
all  that  remains  of  the  theatre  which  roystering 
Russians  made  famous  throughout  the  East.  The 
beer-gardens  are  empty,  and  their  once  well-kept 
shrubs  are  growing  into  jungle.  The  wreck  of  a 
Russian  cruiser,  blown  up  inside  the  substantial 
stone  graving  basin,  blocks  the  dockyard.  Com- 
fortable droshkies,  with  good  Russian  horses 
between  the  shafts,  rattle  briskly  over  well-mac- 
adamised roads.  The  names  of  makers  in  Odessa 
are  engraved  upon  neat  gun-metal  plates  upon  the 
coach-boxes ; but  the  drivers  are  blue-coated  Man- 
churians and  the  occupants  Japanese  in  uniform. 

The  principal  hotel  is  run  by  a manager  from 
Tokyo.  Russian  tea,  knives  and  forks  stamped 
in  Moscow,  a big  stove  and  roomy  windows, 
recall  a different  past ; but  a shell-rent  in  the 
door  and  a comfortable  kimono  beside  one’s  bed, 
to  wear  on  the  way  to  a copious  hot  Japanese  bath, 
bring  back  the  present  reality.  Once  I saw  one 
of  the  red-faced,  bearded  Russians  who  are  asso- 
ciated with  the  place.  I rubbed  my  eyes,  but  he 
was  real,  a solitary  specimen  admitted  under  some 
special  circumstances,  to  close  up  his  affairs.  His 
presence  emphasised  the  desolation  of  the  change 
which  has  occurred.  The  chateaux,  with  double 
windows  and  spacious  halls,  built  by  extravagant 
Muscovites  with  ideas  of  Empire  in  their  minds,  are 


140  PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 

too  big  for  the  small  Japanese  administration  staffs. 
From  the  pavement  along  the  esplanade,  which  is 
formed  of  granite  slabs  so  long  that  each  reaches 
from  one  side  to  the  other,  down  to  electric  lighting 
plant,  of  which  use  is  still  being  made,  everything  is 
in  excess  of  present  requirements.  The  Port  Arthur 
of  the  Russians  is  totally  different  from  the  Port 
Arthur  of  the  Japanese. 

No  European,  however  he  may  admire  the 
achievements  of  the  present  owners  and  sympathise 
with  the  objects  they  have  had  in  view,  can  see  this 
place  as  it  now  is,  without  some  sore  thought  for  the 
men  who  staked  and  lost  so  much  there.  The  claim 
of  race,  made  oftener  than  one  cares  to  count  in  any 
progress  through  Manchuria,  obscures,  with  a pulse 
that  is  almost  physical,  _ the  dictates  of  reason. 
The  traveller  admires,  but  cannot  entirely  admire, 
and  applauds,  but  not  wholly.  He  learns  many 
things  upon  these  battlefields,  but  the  thing  of  which 
he  is  surest  is  that  Russians  are  not  aliens. 

Not  only  as  a city,  but  also  as  a naval  base,  Port 
Arthur  has  seen  its  day.  The  Japanese  have  wisely 
decided  to  content  themselves  with  making  the 
harbour  secure  from  any  sudden  dash  of  a hostile 
fleet,  and  to  trust  to  command  of  the  sea  to  do  the 
rest.  The  haven  and  its  dockyard  will  become  a 
useful  coaling  and  repair  station  for  the  Japanese 
fleet  upon  the  North  China  coast;  and  money  will 
not  be  wasted  upon  keeping  up  the  enormously 
extensive  defences  which  weakened  the  resources  of 
the  Russian  garrison.  Japan  has  no  need  for  more. 


IN  POK'r  ARTHUR  TO-DAV 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


41 


Her  own  fine  harbours  in  the  Inland  Sea  are  her 
proper  strategic  base.  She  will  dispose  to  the  best 
advantage  of  effects  collected  at  the  cost  of  millions 
by  others  and  now  surplus  to  her  requirements. 

The  precise  part  which  military  Port  Arthur  and 
its  commercial  brother,  Dalny  (re-christened  Tairen 
by  the  Japanese)  are  to  play,  in  relation  with  the 
other  Manchurian  ports  of  Neuchwang  and  Antung, 
will  now  gradually  be  determined.  Manchuria  is  a 
treasure-house  which  has  Neuchwang  and  Antung 
as  wide-open  windows  on  either  side,  communi- 
cating direct  with  the  central  chamber,  and  Port 
Arthur  and  Dalny  as  narrow  doors,  set  at  the  end 
of  a long  and  contracted  passage.  The  windows 
are  far  more  convenient  than  the  doors  for  purposes 
of  both  entrance  and  exit,  but  are  barred  in  the 
winter,  while  the  doors  are  not. 

Strategically,  Port  Arthur  and  Dalny  gave  Russia 
the  warm- water  harbours  in  the  Far  East  which  she 
needed  for  her  fleet ; but  commercially  neither  of 
them  prospered  very  notably  in  her  hands.  Their 
future  is  now  further  contracted.  The  natural 
wealth  of  Manchuria  is  great,  but  it  is  situated  far 
from  the  Liaotung  peninsula  in  which  Port  Arthur 
and  Dalny  stand.  The  stupendously  rich  coal-fields 
and  grain  lands  in  the  north  have  distant  Mukden 
as  their  centre,  and  the  Liao  river,  with  Neuchwang 
at  its  mouth,  as  their  natural  outlet.  The  timber 
forests  in  the  East  are  capable  of  competing  success- 
fully with  the  American  lumber  upon  which  China 
now  depends  for  much  of  its  supply  ; but  they  also 


142 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


have  an  outlet  of  their  own.  They  are  located 
about  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Yalu  river,  and  can 
float  their  produce  by  water  to  Antung  far  more 
cheaply  than  a railway  could  carry  it  to  any  other 
port.  Dalny  is  suitable  as  a distributing  centre  for 
the  piece-goods  and  other  manufactured  articles, 
which  are  imported  into  Manchuria  to  pay  for 
beans,  coal,  and  timber  exported.  It  may  be 
capable,  as  well,  of  attracting  a portion  of  the 
exports. 

The  annual  freezing  of  the  Neuchwang  harbour 
locks  up  the  greater  part  of  the  bean  produce  of 
the  Mukden  plain.  Capital  is  not  turned  over, 
nor  is  the  crop  got  to  market  as  quickly  as  would 
be  the  case  were  a constantly  open  port  employed. 
On  the  other  hand,  money  is  saved  on  freight. 
Flat-bottomed  junks  may  often  stick  upon  mud- 
banks,  and  wait  weeks  for  water  in  the  shallow 
Liao-ho ; but  eventually  they  reach  Neuchwang, 
where  they  put  their  produce  direct  upon  the  small 
but  efficient  coasting  steamers  that  do  the  whole 
of  the  trade  of  the  North  China  coasts.  The 
sand-blocked  Yalu  river  is  also  far  from  an  ideal 
highway.  Its  port  is  a miserable  place,  but  pos- 
sesses distinct  advantages.  It  is  the  terminus  of 
the  standard-gauge  railway  to  Seoul,  which  taps 
the  produce  of  North  Korea.  It  is  also  the 
terminus  of  the  narrow  field-railway  to  Mukden, 
which  is  to  be  converted  eventually  to  the  standard 
gauge.  Pine  and  cedar  logs,  from  the  interior,  are 
floated  in  rafts  alongside  its  wharves.  Its  waters 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


143 


are  frozen  for  only  a few  weeks  each  year,  so  no 
very  serious  locking  up  of  traders’  capital  occurs. 
It  has  a commercial  future  which  is  bound  to  affect 
that  of  Dalny  and  Port  Arthur  adversely. 

Port  Arthur  may  become  a rendezvous  for  the 
profitable  globe-trotting  traffic  which  the  Japanese, 
with  his  infinite  capacity  for  detail,  knows  well  how 
to  exploit.  Dalny  is  already  a port  of  call  for 
Japanese  steamers.  Japanese  traders  have  estab- 
lished themselves  there  in  some  numbers,  thus 
getting  the  start  of  other  foreigners,  whom  I found 
in  Chinese  and  Korean  ports  complaining  loudly  of 
being  excluded.  Japanese  piece-goods  and  nick- 
nacks  may  select  this  entrance  to  Manchuria,  but 
only  a portion  of  the  exports  can  be  expected  to 
leave  it  by  the  same  door. 

A striking  contrast  to  the  empty  warehouses  and 
lonely  wharves  of  splendid  Port  Arthur  and  Dalny  is 
afforded  by  the  busy  traffic  of  squalid  Neuchwang. 
Here  no  millions  have  been  expended  by  would- 
be  empire  builders,  but  the  muddy  banks  of  the 
winding  river  are  lined  with  junks.  Steam-winches 
rattle  merrily  upon  vessels  loading  Mukden  bean- 
cake  and  discharging  American  piece-goods.  A 
sand-bar  shuts  out  all  boats  drawing  more  than 
nineteen  feet  of  water.  The  river  winds  so  much 
that  the  cutting  through  of  a neck  of  mud,  only 
1,650  feet  across,  would  divert  the  stream  altogether 
from  the  main  esplanade  of  the  port.  From  the 
windows  of  the  principal  hotel  upon  the  quay  one 
sees,  across  the  anchorage,  beyond  the  mean 


PORT  ARTHUR  AS  IT  IS 


144 

corrugated  iron  roofs  of  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
way to  Tientsin,  junks  which  have  already  travelled 
by  water  sixteen  miles  on  their  tortuous  journey 
from  the  port,  only  to  sight  it  again.  The  wharves 
are  built  of  little  that  is  more  substantial  than 
dried  yellow  millet-stalks  and  rickety  wooden 
stakes ; but  a foreign  trade  of  ten  million  sterling 
annually  is  being  done  in  the  port,  and  a boom  in 
land  values  was  going  on,  at  the  time  of  my  visit, 
which  afforded  tangible  proof  of  the  confidence  felt 
by  the  residents  in  the  future  of  the  place. 

Port  Arthur  and  Dalny  are  in  a very  different 
position.  They  have  been  famous,  but  are  now 
only  the  monument  of  a gigantic  failure.  Japan 
is  obviously  doing  what  enterprise  can  suggest  and 
careful  industry  effect  to  exploit  their  possibilities ; 
but  the  task  is  difficult  and  the  outlook  far  from 
bright. 


CHAPTER  XII 

NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 

CROWD  of  Japanese  officers,  in  black 


uniforms,  voluminous  service  cloaks,  Bliicher 
boots,  and  smart  German  staff  caps,  was  assembled 
on  the  Port  Arthur  railway  platform,  in  front  of  a 
corrugated-iron  ticket  office,  at  seven  o’clock  one 
morning,  when  the  train  by  which  I was  to  travel 
was  starting.  The  reason  of  so  early  a gathering 
was  to  give  a send-off  to  a Japanese  general  officer 
who  was  leaving  for  up-country  to  rejoin  his  brigade. 
The  ceremony  of  the  leave-taking  was  one  that  I 
was  subsequently  to  see  repeated  many  times  over 
in  Manchuria,  Korea,  and  Japan.  The  general 
stood  in  a regulation  attitude  upon  the  footboard  of 
the  carriage,  and  had  something  friendly  to  say  to 
every  individual  present,  not  excluding  the  landlord 
of  the  little  Port  Arthur  inn  where  he  had  put  up, 
or  the  coolie  in  blue  tights  who  had  carried  his 
luggage,  and  now  waited,  hat  in  hand,  his  patient 
Japanese  countenance  illuminated  with  the  smile  of 
adoration  that  only  the  condescension  of  a popular 
general  officer  of  his  own  nationality  can  evoke. 

L MS 


146  NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


The  occasion  was  official,  so  there  was  much 
German  saluting.  It  was  also  social,  as  was  testi- 
fied by  the  cheerful  peals  of  laughter  from  every- 
body present,  which  followed  as  boisterously  upon 
the  sallies  of  the  youngest  subaltern  as  upon  those 
of  bemedalled  colonels  and  majors.  The  last  salute 
was  made  and  the  last  joke  registered  as  the  train 
moved  off.  I had  made  the  general’s  acquaintance 
previously,  and  he  asked  me  into  his  special  carriage, 
luckily  for  me,  as  he  was  the  only  person  upon  the 
train  whose  speech  I could  understand.  With  the 
courtesy  of  his  class  he  made  me  welcome  all  day 
upon  his  leopard  skin.  The  adjutant  and  half-dozen 
subalterns  who  composed  his  staff  travelled  in  a 
partially  separated  compartment,  whence  pleasant 
sounds  of  restrained  laughter  and  talk  floated  to  us 
continuously.  German  is  the  European  language 
most  often  known  by  Japanese  officers;  and  my 
companion  spoke  it  with  fluency.  It  was  of  course 
the  experience  most  desired  by  every  traveller — the 
realisation  for  himself,  by  actual  contact,  of  the  long- 
accepted  theory  of  the  Japanese  military  character. 
It  was  delightful  to  obtain  this  and  to  find,  over  the 
wide  field  of  subjects  we  discussed,  that  sound  sense, 
modesty,  keenness,  kindliness,  and  sureness  of  self, 
with  which  one  had  clothed  the  type  so  freely  in 
imagination. 

When  we  parted  in  the  evening  I had  obtained 
a glimmering,  which  subsequent  experiences  con- 
firmed, of  the  spirit  that  pervades  the  entire 
Japanese  army  in  the  field.  It  has  been  my  good 


Northwards  in  manchuria  147 

fortune  since  to  meet  and  to  discuss  the  current 
political  situation  in  the  Far  East  with  many 
Japanese  leading  men,  from  Marquis  I to  down- 
wards. No  one  can  do  this  and  fail  to  comprehend, 
at  least  in  part,  the  enthusiasm  which  made  the 
victories  of  Metre  Hill  and  Liaoyang  possible. 
Sir  Ernest  Satow  referred,  in  a recent  speech  at 
Tokyo,  to  the  self  - sacrificing  loyalty  of  the 
Samurai  towards  his  feudal  chief  as  a base  of 
Japan’s  great  successes.  One  cannot  travel  long 
in  Manchuria  without  recognising  that  there  is  a 
converse  to  this  statement.  It  is  that  the  Japanese 
leader  is  a man  to  inspire  the  devotion  he 
commands. 

The  superior  mixes  with  the  subordinate  upon 
a footing  of  something  oddly  like  equality.  I have 
seen  a sergeant  interpose  a remark  in  a conver- 
sation between  two  captains  in  the  train,  and  be 
responded  to,  as  a matter  of  course,  with  geniality 
equal  to  his  own.  The  food  and  warmth  of  his 
men  is  of  more  importance  to  the  officer  than 
his  personal  comfort.  Good  fellowship  is  universal. 
It  permeates  the  Japanese  army,  from  the  top  to 
the  bottom.  The  general  can  count  upon  every 
man  in  his  command.  Selfishness  seems  to  be 
almost  an  unknown  factor,  at  all  events  in  its 
obvious  and  familiar  forms.  Every  soldier  has 
confidence  in  his  fellows.  The  cost  to  himself  of 
what  he  may  be  called  upon  to  do  is  the  last 
thing  to  which  he  directs  his  thoughts. 

The  country  opens  as  the  Port  Arthur  train 


148  NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


proceeds  northwards  into  Manchuria.  The  kopjes 
separate  from  one  another ; the  stony  fields  become 
brown  and  loamy.  Dingy  mud  homesteads,  stunted 
oaks,  dark  pines,  and  vivid  green  pear-trees  come 
into  the  picture  at  intervals.  Streams  appear, 
though  very  occasionally,  flowing  briskly  through 
wide  stretches  of  yellow  sand,  at  the  bottoms  of 
valleys  they  have  scooped  for  themselves  below 
the  general  level  of  the  country.  The  skeleton 
of  a wrecked  train  lies  at  the  bottom  of  one  of 
the  railway  embankments.  The  whole  of  the 
iron-work,  including  wheels,  springs,  and  frames, 
rusts  in  tangled  confusion  where  it  fell  off  the 
track ; but  not  a particle  of  the  woodwork 
remains.  White  paint  hangs  to  the  stanchions  in 
places,  and  is  quite  unsinged.  The  absence  of 
wood  is  not  due  to  accidental  fire,  but  is  because 
the  Manchurian  villagers  are  so  badly  off  for 
fuel  that  they  have  picked  the  iron  bones  clean  of 
everything  capable  of  being  converted  into  warmth 
in  the  long  winter  months. 

This  scarcity  of  fuel  is  reducing  Central  Man- 
churia to  a treeless  land.  The  gigantic  coal 
deposits  in  the  Mukden  plain  will  no  doubt  supply 
the  deficiency  some  day : meanwhile  reeds  and 
millet-stalks  are  used  to  an  astonishing  extent  for 
both  fuel  and  building.  I have  it  from  a Japanese 
mining  engineer  of  experience,  who  has  inspected 
the  Mukden  coal-field,  that  one  of  the  seams  is 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  thick,  and  that  the 
quality  of  the  mineral  compares  with  that  of  the 


NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


149 


Welsh  product.  There  were  no  means  of  checking 
this  statement,  but  every  one  upon  the  spot  with 
whom  I have  discussed  the  matter,  is  agreed  that 
the  value  of  the  deposits  is  enormous.  The  mines 
are  amongst  the  concessions  transferred  to  Japanese 
ownership  by  the  Portsmouth  Treaty  ; but  I am 
told  that  only  about  five  hundred  tons  per  diem 
are  being  raised  at  present,  and  that  the  whole  of 
this  amount  is  absorbed  by  the  local  railways 
and  steamers.  The  Manchurians,  meanwhile,  are 
cutting  down  every  tree  that  is  unguarded.  The 
Japanese  in  consequence  have  found  the  praise- 
worthy endeavour  they  have  been  making  to  re- 
afforest the  Port  Arthur  peninsula  almost  as  difficult 
as  has  been  the  corresponding  task  of  the  Germans 
at  Tsing-tao.  In  each  case  young  trees  have  been 
torn  down  ruthlessly,  and  much  of  the  work  has 
had  to  be  done  twice  over. 

It  was  the  middle  of  the  night  when  the  train 
pulled  up  at  the  bleak  Liaoyang  station,  a place 
which  seems,  to  the  belated  visitor,  a thousand 
miles  from  anywhere.  A Japanese  subaltern 
stepped  out  of  chaos  with  a paper  lantern  to 
meet  me  ; and  I was  glad  to  see  him.  We  were 
soon  tramping  together  through  mud  and  rain, 
in  what,  but  for  the  paper  lantern,  would  have 
been  utter  darkness,  to  find  the  military  rest-house. 
My  luggage  followed  upon  the  shoulders  of  two 
sturdy  little  soldiers  in  uniform.  My  hospitable 
conductor  told  me  in  broken  German  that  he 
had  been  warned  by  telegram,  by  my  fellow- 


ISO  NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 

passenger  of  the  morning,  to  expect  me,  which 
accounted  for  my  reception.  We  were  soon  in 
the  rest-house,  which  has  been  constructed  out 
of  a one-storied  Russian  building.  I was  regaled 
upon  refreshing  green  tea  and  lighted  to  a 
comfortable  bed  with  the  bedclothes  of  Europe, 
no  doubt  a Russian  legacy. 

A familiar  bugle  woke  me  in  the  morning.  A 
polite  little  soldier  conducted  me  to  a tub  and 
gave  me  Japanese  breakfast  with  many  bows,  and  a 
smiling  solicitude  for  my  comfort  that  added  another 
flavour  of  the  country  to  every  dish.  My  subaltern 
friend  turned  up  with  an  orderly  afterwards ; and 
the  three  of  us  were  quickly  mounted  upon  tough 
little  Central  Asian  ponies,  and  scrambling  cheer- 
fully in  and  out  of  dykes  and  Russian  trenches  in 
the  open  country  beyond  the  town. 

Sharp  rain,  with  cold  wind  behind  it,  beat  in  our 
faces,  numbing  our  hands,  and  finding  chilly  way 
into  boots  and  garments  till  we  were  wet  to  the 
skin.  The,  ground  was  a slippery  quagmire  of 
sodden  clay.  The  watercourses  were  swollen  and 
the  trenches  treacherous,  but  the  clever  little  ponies 
struggled  gamely  across  them.  The  millet  of  the 
country,  which  grows  to  be  ten  feet  high,  was  only 
showing  above  the  ground,  so  every  fold  and  crease 
in  the  expanse  could  be  seen  clearly.  The  main 
defences  of  the  Russian  position  consisted  of 
elaborate  star-shaped  forts,  with  heavily  timbered 
shelter-trenches,  surrounded  by  wire  entangle- 
ments and  stake-pits.  These  forts  are  set  in  a 


OUTSIDK  THK  ( TI  V 


A LOAD  OF  MANCHURIAN  MILLP:T 


NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


151 


i wide  circle  around  Liaoyang.  They  are  about 
) a mile  apart  from  each  other  and  a mile  in  advance 
i of  the  old  city  wall.  Most  of  the  fighting  took 
! place,  however,  much  further  afield.  General 
I Kuroki  pressing  in  upon  the  Russian  left,  while 
Nodzu  hammered  at  the  centre,  and  Oku  on  the 
right ; the  Japanese  advancing  from  the  east  and 
south  in  a semicircle  of  fifty  miles  radius. 

Some  four  miles  out  we  rode  round  a high 
bare  kopje  of  grey  rock  showing  through  the  grass, 
which  overlooks  the  rich  brown  plain  on  which 
Liaoyang  stands.  On  the  summit  is  now  a rough 
stone  memorial  tower. 

At  the  foot,  where  the  cultivation  ends  and  the 
steep  grassy  slope  begins,  is  a straggling  Manchu 
village  of  brown  mud  huts,  which  was  captured 
and  recaptured  again  and  again  in  the  long-drawn- 
out  fight.  Beyond  the  village,  a red  scar,  amidst 
grey  rocks  on  the  green  expanse,  indicates  a line 
of  hastily  built  Russian  trenches,  extending  for 
miles  through  the  hills,  with  frequent  gun-emplace- 
ments at  lower  elevations  in  the  rear  behind  the 
crests.  Many  of  the  advanced  bastions,  whence 
the  Russians  directed  the  fire  of  their  men,  are 
still  intact.  The  main  line  is  broken  in  numerous 
places.  From  the  Russian  positions  one  looks 
towards  the  lines  from  which  the  Japanese  ad- 
vanced. The  view  is  of  bare  hills,  which  are 
high  on  the  east  and  sink  into  rich  cultivated 
plain  to  the  south  and  west.  The  entrenchments 
were  noticeably  mainly  Russian.  Japanese  officers 


152 


NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


I have  talked  with  recognise  that  their  men  had 
to  learn  in  this  respect  from  the  enemy.  They 
are  characteristically  modest  about  the  obviously 
superior  morale  which  enabled  them  to  attack,  in 
the  open,  lines  long  prepared  and  strongly  held. 
They  make  the  reasonable  claim,  however,  that 
in  individual  initiative  they  had  a superiority 
which  was  often  of  decisive  value.  They  found 
the  Russians  entirely  dependent  upon  their  officers 
and  completely  disorganised  without  them.  When 
it  became  necessary  to  retreat,  the  Russian  soldier 
flung  away  rifle,  clothes,  and  transport  and  gave 
no  thought  to  the  future.  The  Japanese  could 
act  upon  his  own  initiative  ; he  had  resources  and 
confidence  in  himself  and  stuck  always  tenaciously 
to  his  rifle. 

My  pony  slipped  heavily,  once  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  on  a wet  skull,  half-buried  in  one  of  the 
trenches.  The  effect  of  shell-fire  was  evident 
upon  some  of  the  earthworks,  but  the  soft  loam 
of  the  country  had  absorbed  most  of  the  more 
obvious  marks  of  the  fighting.  Graves  are  plen- 
tiful, but  they  are  not  conspicuous.  Yellow  cow- 
slips and  blue  irises  are  poking  gentle  faces  through 
the  long,  wet  grass  above  them.  Village  huts  have 
been  rebuilt  with  the  materials  of  ruined  neigh- 
bours, whose  owners  have  disappeared.  The  rain 
has  washed  ashes  and  roofless  mud  walls  into  the 
spongy  soil.  Every  stick  of  unclaimed  timber  has 
been  carried  away.  The  village  dogs  are  no  longer 
sated.  They  attacked  us  so  hungrily,  as  our  ponies 


NORTHWARDS  IN  MANCHURIA 


153 


waded  through  the  filthy  quagmire,  which  is  the 
road  between  the  huts,  that  the  orderly  was  tempted 
into  drawing  his  sword  upon  them.  Big- boned 
Manchurians  and  their  listless  women  and  ragged 
children  peered  out  of  doorways  as  we  passed. 
There  was  little  else  to  indicate  that  we  were 
in  what,  two  years  ago,  was  a hotly  contested 
corner  of  one  of  the  biggest  battlefields  in  the 
world. 

Our  route,  on  the  return  journey,  took . us  by 
the  Antung  trunk-road,  which  figures  upon  the 
maps  as  having  been  the  main  channel  of  supplies 
for  Kuroki’s  army.  It  is  a mere  track  through 
a vast  plain  of  cultivation,  without  metalling  of 
any  kind.  We  found  mules  ridden  by  well-dressed, 
dripping  Chinese,  and  heavy  two- wheeled  carts  with 
rough,  and  equally  wet  Manchu  drivers,  struggling 
through  freshly  ploughed  land  to  avoid  the  even 
deeper  quagmires  of  the  road.  Big  stone  slabs, 
which  once  formed  part  of  bridges,  encumbered 
spots  where  the  mud  track  plunged  through  water- 
courses. No  vehicle  except  a Manchurian  mule- 
cart  would  attempt  to  go  forward  at  all,  and  even 
the  mule-cart  is  often  bogged.  There  is  no  other 
road  in  the  country. 


I 


i.  ■ / 


CHAPTER  XIII 


AT  MUKDEN 

Between  Liaoyang  and  Mukden  the  plain 
of  rich  cultivation  grows  wider  and  more 
open.  The  rugged  hills  recede  to  a horizon  ^which 
becomes  continually  more  distant  upon  either  side, 
as  one  journeys  northward.  The  houses  about  the 
railway  stations  are  a little  more  systematically 
shattered  than  further  south.  Earthen  mounds  are 
piled  high  round  the  buildings  which  remain,  to  keep 
out  stray  Hunchus  bullets.  The  fields  are  more 
thickly  furrowed  with  shelter-trenches  and  more 
honeycombed  with  stake-pits.  Drawing  near  to 
Mukden,  one  sees  Russian  forts  with  covered 
timbered-ways  and  barbed-wire  entanglements, 
similar  to  those  about  Liaoyang.  White,  sail- 
covered  stacks  of  military  provisions  make  giant 
encampments  about  the  railway  stations  of  both 
Liaoyang  and  Mukden,  but  are  being  gradually 
depleted  as  the  Japanese  evacuation  proceeds. 
Heaps  of  empty  meat-tins  mark  the  sites  of 
deserted  encampments.  From  time  to  time  one 
sees  recruits  at  drill ; for  the  Japanese  Government 


156 


AT  MUKDEN 


is  infusing  the  spirit  of  its  veterans  into  the  rising 
generation  by  withdrawing  the  men  who  went 
through  the  campaign  and  replacing  them,  for 
garrison  purposes,  with  youngsters  who  enthusias- 
tically study  the  sites  of  the  battles. 

The  military  staff  officers  at  Mukden  are  in 
occupation  of  Russian-built  bungalows  near  the 
railway  station  ; but  the  administrative  offices  are  in 
the  heart  of  the  city.  A two-foot  tramway  with 
wooden  packing-cases  upon  wheels  for  passenger 
cars,  and  big  blue-coated  Manchu  coolies  for  motive 
power,  connect  the  two.  Each  car  takes  one 
passenger,  and  the  coolie,  applying  a sturdy 
shoulder,  pushes  behind — a leisurely  and  inex- 
pensive form  of  transit  which  I saw  nowhere  else. 

Mukden  is  a typical,  walled  Tartar  city,  with  high 
stone-battlemented  bastions,  wide-arched  gateways 
and  steep-roofed  watch-towers.  Broad  - hipped 
Manchu  w^omen,  with  dyed  cheeks,  and  scores  of 
small  looking-glasses  flashing  in  carefully  braided 
hair,  walk  freely  about  the  crowded  streets  upon 
natural-sized  feet,  which  are  a relief  to  the  eye  after 
the  deformed  misery  of  the  Chinese  women  who 
tottered  about  the  cities  I had  come  from.  Coarse- 
featured  men,  in  wadded  coats,  crack  cane  whips 
over  six-in-hand  teams  of  fine  mules  which  have 
to  strain  to  pull  rough  country-carts  out  of  the 
quagmires  of  the  principal  thoroughfare  of  the 
city.  Loungers  of  various  Mongolian  types  are 
to  be  seen  in  the  crowd.  Booths  along  the  pave- 
ment are  doing  a thriving  trade  in  every  imaginable 


IN  THE  STREETS  OF  MUKDEN 


AT  MUKDEN 


157 


article  of  necessity  and  adornment,  from  stout 
leather  harness  and  iron  cooking-pots  to  red 
umbrellas  and  long,  black  hair-queues. 

I was  indebted  to  the  Japanese  Administrator  for 
a comfortable  droshky  with  a fine  Russian  horse. 
My  cab  arrived  with  a broken  spring  from  its 
struggle  through  the  ruts.  A second  was  found  and 
conveyed  me  half-way  across  the  city,  only  to  be  left 
bogged  in  the  Piccadilly  of  the  place.  Eventually 
the  inevitable,  springless,  blue-hooded  Pekin  mule- 
cart  turned  up,  which  proved  able  to  negotiate 
even  the  Mukden  roads.  The  appropriate  official 
visits  were  duly  paid,  and  a start  effected  towards 
the  ancient  tombs  of  the  Ming  dynasty  of  China. 
We  toiled  through  a mile  of  moist,  black  dough, 
where  the  shopkeepers  were  busy  filling  up  new- 
made  ruts.  We  bumped  with  spine-dislocating 
crash  from  one  big  paving-stone  to  another,  under 
the  dark  city  gateway,  and  emerged  outside  on  a 
Golgotha  beset  with  odorous  refuse  and  mangy 
country  dogs.  The  road  then  climbed  to  a grassy 
down,  where  a bracing  wind  chased  swaying 
masses  of  golden  buttercups  under  a sky  of  blue 
broken  by  white  masses  of  cloud.  One  filled 
one’s  lungs  and  stretched  cramped  muscles  in 
the  delicious  warmth  of  direct  sunbeams.  Soon 
the  downs  gave  place  to  sheltered  coppice,  where 
soft  green  newly-emerged  hawthorn  foliage  was 
tinted  with  the  swelling  promise  of  white  May-buds. 
Mistletoe  hung  nestlike  in  dark  clusters  from  gnarled 
branches  of  frequent  trees.  Oak-leaves  which  had 


iS8 


AT  MUKDEN 


not  put  off  the  brown  tint  of  recent  birth  threw 
mottled  shadows  upon  the  way.  Wild  apricot  and 
pear-trees  nodded  in  the  background.  Bees  busied 
themselves  noisily  over  dandelions  which  had  un- 
accustomed white,  as  well  as  familiar  yellow  flowers. 
Carved  pillars  and  grotesque  stone  dragons, 
memorials  of  a dynasty  departed,  waited  at 
regular  intervals  in  the  shade.  Suddenly  the 

way  was  paved  with  big  square  blocks.  A stone 
balustrade  stood  on  either  side.  In  front,  two 

Chinese  lions  grinned  in  sandstone,  at  the  top  of 
wide,  paved  steps  which  led  through  an  elaborately 
carved  stone  gateway  into  the  courtyard  of  the 
tombs  themselves.  A white  cloud  of  wild  carrot- 
flower  obscured  the  lower  steps,  and  clematis 
climbed  over  the  side.  Dry  dandelion-heads 
scattered  gossamer  seedlets  over  fresh  dock-leaves. 
Irises  made  purple  spots  between  the  stones  and 
violets  bloomed  upon  mossy  banks,  beneath  Indian- 
red  walls.  The  sun  shone  warm  through  in- 
vigorating air.  The  hum  of  bees,  close  at  hand, 
mingled  with  the  soft  distant  drone  of  cooing 
pigeons  in  the  pine-trees  and  the  deep  grunt  of 
frogs  in  fish-ponds  not  far  off.  The  stiff  little 
Japanese  interpreter,  who  had  guided  me,  re- 
marked, sentimentally,  that  the  place  reminded 
him  of  his  native  land. 

We  entered,  through  an  elaborate  archway,  roofed 
with  the  glazed,  yellow  tiles  I had  seen  before  in  the 
Forbidden  City  of  Peking,  and  decorated  in  bas-relief 
with  imperial,  five-clawed  dragons  of  rough  brown 


LOCOMOTION  IN  MUKDEN 


AT  MUKDEN 


159 


and  green  porcelain,  which  shaded  into  more 
precious  blue.  Within,  a broad,  straight,  paved 
way  was  flecked  with  sunlight  which  fell  through 
the  matted  branches  of  stunted  pines.  Beyond 
were  the  yellow  pagoda-roofs  of  the  tombs.  The 
pines  ended  abruptly  in  an  open  space.  On 
either  side  was  a well-drilled  company  of  giant 
lions,  camels,  and  elephants  in  stone.  An  enormous 
stone  cart-horse,  with  thick,  hairy  fetlocks,  helped 
to  keep  guard.  A gaily  decorated,  tiled  pagoda 
held  the  first  of  the  graves.  Within  its  walls  an 
immense  stone  tablet  stood  to  attention  upon  a 
stone  tortoise,  the  size  of  a hay-stack,  and  bore, 
in  deep-cut  Chinese  hieroglyphics,  the  history  of 
majesty  buried  below. 

Chinese  carpenters  were  sawing  up  timber  a 
little  further  on.  An  old  Chinese  custodian 
tottered  up  from  amongst  them  and  demanded 
our  passes.  I surprised  him,  shortly  afterwards, 
surreptitiously  holding  a measuring-rod  against  my 
back.  To  him  I was  a Russian,  returned  from  the 
north.  I felt  a throb  of  perfectly  unjustifiable 
gratification. 

A few  hours  later  I was  back  in  the  cramped, 
dirty  bazars  of  the  city,  where  the  courtyards  of 
the  imperial  palace  draw  the  stranger  within  their 
walls.  The  Mings  must  have  sheltered  themselves, 
when  they  were  alive,  much  worse  than  when  they 
were  dead.  After  the  large-minded  spaciousness  of 
the  tombs,  the  palace  seemed  insignificant  and  poor. 
Its  interest  centred  in  the  relics  of  past  dignity  it 


i6o 


AT  MUKDEN 


housed.  Richly  jewelled  weapons,  quaint  carved 
red  lacquer-ware  and  polished  brass  which  had 
miraculously  escaped  the  covetousness  of  contend- 
ing armies,  were  brought  out  by  brusque  Chinese 
custodians,  in  prompt  if  ungracious  obedience  to  the 
order  I presented.  I was  shown  weird  coloured 
portraits  of  fierce,  high-featured,  Tsin  emperors  and 
mild,  round-countenanced  student  Mings.  I was 
taken  over  an  inner  library,  where  were  long  walls 
covered  with  shelves  filled  with  enormous  flexible 
books  in  yellow  and  red  cloth  binding,  which  con- 
tain the  official  history  of  the  imperial  dynasty. 
The  volumes  were  in  course  of  being  removed  to 
another  part  of  the  building,  to  make  way  for 
repairs.  I met  a procession  of  packets,  each  con- 
taining two  books  wrapped  up  carefully  in  Japanese 
piece-goods,  staggering  down  the  passage  by  which 
I entered.  Each  packet  had  four  stalwart  Chinese 
coolies  toiling  at  it  with  thick  bamboo  carrying- 
pole.  Each  book  would  have  covered  a moderate 
sized  dining-table  when  opened.  Each,  I was  told, 
set  forth  the  achievements  of  the  reign  of  some  one 
Ming  or  Tsin. 


SUDDENLY,  THE  WAV  WAS  T’AVED  WH'H  HIG  SQUARE  BLOCKS 


CHAPTER  XIV 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 

HE  traveller  in  Manchuria  expects  conditions 


which,  in  Europe,  would  seem  anomalous. 
The  railways  and  the  Japanese  cantonments,  for 
example,  all  make  use  of  Tokyo  time.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  Mukden,  in  consequence,  who  go  by  the 
clocks,  begin  the  day  an  hour  earlier  than  the  sun 
does.  This  luminary  may  not  have  set  when  they 
prepare  to  turn  in  for  the  night ; the  dawn  may  be 
still  sleepy-eyed  when  they  get  up ; but  the  arrange- 
ment has  its  advantages  in  a country  where  the 
needs  of  a man’s  life  are  summed  up  in  obtaining 
food  and  warmth,  and  arriving  at  the  end  of  the 
day’s  journey  by  daylight. 

The  first  train  in  the  day,  on  the  field  railway 
which  the  Japanese  have  hurried  into  existence 
across  the  mountain  ranges  separating  Mukden 
from  the  western  boundary  of  Korea,  nominally 
starts  soon  after  six  o’clock.  In  consequence  of  the 
peculiarities  of  the  time  system,  and  the  dispropor- 
tion between  the  number  of  the  passengers  and  the 
space  available  in  the  toy  goods-trucks  which  do 

M 


i62  across  south-east  MANCHURIA 


duty  for  carriages,  he  must  arise  betimes  who  would 
travel  to  Antung  otherwise  than  upon  a goods 
wagon  already  filled  with  coal.  I reached  the  point 
upon  the  muddy  plain,  which  is  the  Mukden  railway 
station,  in  what  seemed  to  me  the  middle  of  the 
night ; but  a crowd  was  already  besieging  the  train. 
I found  four  Japanese  officers,  a baby,  five  women, 
two  soldiers,  and  twelve  private  gentlemen,  all 
endeavouring  to  pack  themselves  and  their  not 
inconsiderable  baggage  into  one  luggage-van,  which 
represented  the  first-class  accommodation  of  the 
mail  train  that  was  about  to  start.  When  I added 
myself  to  the  total  we  were  twenty-six.  The  third- 
class  passengers  spread  their  wraps  upon  the  top  of 
the  loose  Mukden  coal  in  the  three  open  trucks 
behind  us.  A little  engine  was  harnessed  at  one 
end  and  a guard’s  brake  at  the  other,  and  we 
started  gaily  for  Korea. 

It  is  cold  between  night  and  morning  in  the  May 
of  Manchuria,  and  a tight  squeeze  was  not  an 
unpleasantly  warm  one,  at  least  at  first.  Later  on 
it  was  different,  when  the  sun  got  up  and  the  limita- 
tions of  the  two-foot  six-inch  gauge  had  had  time 
to  impress  themselves.  Rice  sausages,  loaded  with 
sticky  flavouring,  bottles  of  Kerin  beer,  and  steaming 
kettles  of  aromatic  Japanese  tea  were  handed  in, 
over  good-humoured  heads,  at  the  first  wayside 
station ; and  I found  myself  in  cheerful  and  hospitable 
comradeship.  The  officers  immediately  produced 
their  visiting  cards — have  the  Japanese  borrowed 
this  custom  from  the  Americans,  or  did  Commodore 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA  163 


Perry  bring  it  back  from  Japan  ? — and  we  exchanged 
these  tributes  with  due  ceremony.  The  twelve 
private  gentlemen  were  more  shy  of  introducing 
themselves  in  the  presence  of  the  ever-impressive 
military  caste  ; but  our  company  was  permeated  by 
a thoroughly  good  understanding.  How  impossible 
would  have  been  such  sociability  in  a railway 
carriage  of  India,  where  half  of  a parallel  gathering 
would  have  resented  sausages  as  unclean  and  the 
other  half  would  have  made  the  air  unbearable  with 
hubble-bubble  smoke ! 

The  line  we  were  traversing  is  of  the  portable 
type  which  claims,  as  its  main  attraction,  that  it  can 
be  laid  down  quickly.  It  makes  no  pretence  to  be 
permanent.  The  bridges  are  of  rough  pine  logs 
spiked  together  crazily.  The  embankments  are  of 
hastily  thrown  up  and  not  yet  consolidated  sand  and 
mud.  The  springs  of  the  trucks  are  of  a kind  that 
the  passenger  remembers  tenderly.  The  line  was 
intended  to  feed  General  Kuroki  s army  in  the  long 
campaign  that  preceded  the  battle  of  Mukden  ; 
and  well  it  fulfilled  its  purpose.  It  now  serves  as 
an  alternative  route  between  Japan  and  Northern 
Manchuria.  The  Tokyo  authorities  propose  to 
convert  it  to  the  standard  four-foot  eight-inch 
gauge.  In  this  case  it  will  complete  the  main  line 
connection  between  Korea  and  China,  and  fill  up 
an  important  gap  in  the  railway  route  that  will 
eventually  connect  Fusan,  in  the  south  of  Korea, 
with  the  Trans-Siberian  line,  and  thus  with  Europe. 

A few  miles  outside  Mukden  we  crossed  a narrow- 


i64  across  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 


gauge  feeder  railway,  which  connects  the  Port 
Arthur  track  with  the  coal-mines  of  Middle 
Manchuria.  Thence  the  route  took  us  across  the 
level  plain  towards  the  distant  hills  of  the  south- 
east. On  the  way  we  passed  more  entrenchments 
and  wire-entanglements,  part  of  the  Russian 
lines  around  the  city.  The  first  thirty  miles 
were  through  flat,  open  cultivation.  Steep,  grassy 
hills,  with  grey  rocks  in  patches,  then  closed 
gradually  in  upon  either  side.  For  twenty  miles 
thereafter  the  train  travelled  up  a level  valley  of 
rich,  ploughed  land,  averaging  perhaps  a dozen 
miles  in  breadth.  This  valley  separates  positions 
occupied  by  the  Russians  and  the  Japanese  respec- 
tively throughout  the  whole  of  a long  winter, 
when  the  contending  armies  lay  opposite  to  one 
another  in  snow  that  was  sometimes  three  feet 
deep.  One  of  my  fellow-travellers  had  served 
through  the  campaign  with  Kuroki’s  forces,  and 
could  point  out  ruined  mud  hovels  in  the  plain, 
which  he  had  seen  taken  and  retaken,  and  tell  how 
dear  some  of  the  Russian  hilltops,  which  lined  our 
horizon  upon  the  left,  had  cost  to  obtain. 

“ The  Russians  were  great  diggers,  but  our  men 
learnt,  gradually,  how  to  dig  as  well,”  he  remarked, 
as  mile  after  mile  of  red  patches  upon  the  bare, 
green  slopes  indicated  to  us  where  the  Russians 
had  thrown  the  ferruginous  subsoil  out  of  their 
timbered,  shell-proof  trenches.  There  was  one  low, 
rounded  hill  in  particular,  with  a monument  upon 
its  summit,  which  my  companion  considered  to  have 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA  165 


been  the  centre  of  the  fight  that  decided  the  fate  of 
Mukden.  Glasses  and  maps  were  brought  out  by 
all  the  officers,  and  eyes  sparkled  in  the  telling  of 
how,  after  long  days  of  costly  failure,  the  guards 
stormed  it  in  the  night  and  made  good  their  cap- 
ture. Apropos  of  this  fight,  the  story  was  told  me 
of  certain  newspaper  correspondents  with  Kuroki’s 
army  whose  coolness  in  the  fighting  had  made  an 
impression  upon  the  Japanese.  They  were  de- 
scribed to  me  as  “ tapfere  Herren,”  who  were  upon 
captured  heights  with  their  note-books  and  pencils 
almost  as  soon  as  the  Japanese  got  there  with  their 
rifles.  My  companion  was  unable  to  tell  me  their 
names,  but  described  them  as  American.  One  felt 
an  anonymous  glow  of  satisfaction  in  these  news- 
paper men  for  making  themselves  respected  ; 
for  the  attitude  of  contempt  for  our  race,  which  is 
unpleasantly  universal  amongst  the  Chinese,  is  also, 

I have  found,  not  unknown  in  Japanese  circles, 
though  here  it  peeps  forth  but  seldom  from  behind 
a smiling  mask  of  careful  politeness. 

As  the  morning  broadened  into  day  the  hills  on 
either  side  of  us  closed  in  and  grew  steeper  and 
more  rugged.  A few  oaks,  wild-pear  and  ragged 
pine-trees  appeared.  The  train  climbed,  jolting  up- 
wards along  sandy  shelves,  on  steep,  slippery  slopes, 
and  over  top-heavy  log  bridges  from  which  we  looked 
down  into  boulder-strewn  river-beds  far  below. 

“He  should  say  his  prayers  who  would  travel 
by  this  line,”  said  one  of  my  cheery  fellow-passen- 
gers ; and  this  was  a great  joke,  good-humouredly 


i66  ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 


translated  into  German  for  my  benefit.  Another 
effort,  much  applauded,  reminded  my  companions 
of  the  swords  with  which  they  were  to  tackle 
Hunchus  highwaymen  who  might  infest  the  line. 
They  were  still  unpleasantly  active,  it  seemed, 
wherever  the  strong  hand  of  the  Japanese  was  not 
upon  them. 

The  train  stuck  in  a heavy  cutting  at  the  head  of 
the  valley,  but  eventually  struggled,  panting,  over 
the  watershed,  and  bumped  with  dangerous  speed 
down  the  slope  on  the  other  side.  The  country 
now  grew  wilder.  We  found  ourselves,  presently, 
in  a magnificent  gorge  with  crags  several  hun- 
dred feet  high.  A trout-stream  rippled  amongst 
cream-coloured,  marbled  rocks  and  splashed  over 
picturesque  weirs  to  turn  queer,  horizontally-set 
wooden  mill-wheels,  with  daylight  showing  between 
the  spoke-like  blades.  A pagoda-roofed  temple 
sat,  complaisant,  upon  a peninsula  of  buff-coloured 
quartz.  We  saw  weather-worn  Manchu  coffins, 
with  sides  of  three-inch  planks,  set  out  upon  the 
bare  ground  in  cramped,  sloped  fields,  in  some 
cases  entirely  exposed,  in  others  supporting  a dome 
of  earth,  which  covered  only  the  lid  and  left  sides 
and  ends  in  view.  Here  the  trees  had  multiplied 
into  forest.  Felled  pine-trunks  were  piled  in  con- 
fusion upon  each  other  in  the  stream-bed,  at  the 
bottom  of  steep  slides,  down  which  they  had  been 
precipitated  to  await  a flood  to  carry  them  to  a 
market.  Green  hawthorn-trees  were  bursting  into 
snowy  bloom.  The  call  of  a cuckoo  gave  the 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA  167 


silence  a sentiment  when  we  pulled  up  at  a wayside 
station  to  water  the  engine.  Everything  was  rest- 
ful except  the  jarring  train. 

The  coal-trucks  were  here  transferred  to  a siding. 
We  took  on,  in  their  place,  heaped-up  loads  of  loose 
beams  and  scantling,  which  threatened  to  pour 
deyastatingly  into  our  truck  whenever -the  grade 
was  down-hill.  The  little  engine  smothered  us 
with  coal-smoke ; and  the  sun  became  a furnace 
under  which  we  roasted  in  tightly  packed  layers. 
The  baby  definitely  declined  our  united  blandish- 
ments, and  yelled  continuously,  for  even  a Japanese 
baby  is  human.  A stout  gentleman  in  a kimono 
snored  upon  my  shoulder,  and  the  narrow  board 
that  did  duty  for  a seat  developed  aggressive 
angles.  The  five  Japanese  ladies  piled  themselves 
into  a heap  of  shapeless  misery  at  the  far  end  of  the 
truck ; the  five  husbands  held  the  baby  by  turns. 
Seven  o’clock  in  the  evening  arrived  at  last,  how- 
ever ; and  the  tired  little  train  bustled  punctually 
into  the  station  of  Gibatto,  where  we  were  to  spend 
the  night,  after  a good  thirteen  hours’  run. 

An  iron-roofed  shed  with  mat  walls  served  as  a 
Japanese  inn.  The  charm  of  a capacious  wooden 
boiler,  with  a hot  stove-pipe  running  through  it, 
was  slightly  impaired  by  the  doubtless  fully  justified 
criticism  of  the  twenty  men,  women,  and  children 
who  turned  up  to  watch  my  endeavours  to  tub  in  it 
without  parboiling.  The  crowd  got  itself,  after- 
wards, one  by  one,  into  the  scalding  interior,  with 
apparent  satisfaction  and  no  false  modesty  what- 


i68  ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 


ever.  I felt  it  was  merely  the  eccentricity  of  the 
foreigner  to  object  to  publicity. 

I was  allowed  to  hire  the  best  accommodation 
of  the  house.  It  consisted  of  a cupboard  sepa- 
rated off  by  a partition  of  matting  from  the 
general  apartment  where  the  cooking  of  the 
establishment  was  done,  and  my  fellow-passengers 
fed,  smoked,  and  slept.  The  excellent  boiled 
rice  which  was  brought  to  my  cupboard  was 
heaped  high  in  steaming  plenitude  in  a house- 
maid’s bucket.  I experimented,  also,  upon  a 
whole  trayful  of  delicacies  in  little  lacquer-ware 
bowls,  including  Japanese  soup,  dried  fish,  and 
novelties  in  mouth-wrinkling  pickles.  A warm, 
black  cotton  quilt  and  a yellow  sheet  which  had 
seen  service  since  the  wash,  but  was  not  aggressive 
on  that  account,  made  a snug  sleeping-place  upon 
the  floor. 

Daylight  saw  us  again  in  the  train  proceeding 
through  broken  country.  Stools  of  Chinese  oak, 
with  young,  yellow  foliage,  began  to  be  prominent 
in  the  forest.  In  places  there  were  sheer  cliffs 
of  rock  a couple  of  hundred  feet  high.  Twice 
the  line  crossed  the  ’watershed.  “ Bunsingling  ” 
was  the  name  given  by  the  Japanese  officers  to 
the  principal  pass.  Trenches  crept  out  upon  the 
slopes  ; and  I was  told  of  heavy  fighting  that  had 
taken  place  to  secure  possession  of  the  ranges. 
The  line  rose,  further  on,  by  a series  of  long  curves 
and  zigzags,  over  a spur.  From  the  summit  one 
looked  back  upon  what  seemed  like  five  sets  of 


DAYLIGHT  SAW  US  AGAIN  IN  THE  TRAIN 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA  169 


separate  railways,  so  much  does  the  line  double 
upon  itself  to  obtain  the  necessary  gradients  in 
climbing  up  from  below.  A tunnel  is  to  be  con- 
structed in  this  place  when  the  expected  conversion 
of  the  system  to  standard  gauge  takes  place.  In 
:he  afternoon  we  were  in  an  open  valley  bounded 
on  the  east  by  jagged  blue  peaks,  where  Manchu 
/illagers  found  asylum  for  many  of  their  women 
iuring  the  campaign.  The  line  of  the  Russian 
retreat,  after  the  battle  of  the  Yalu,  was  up  in 
this  valley ; and  we  were  able  to  trace  the  location 
of  one  of  the  lesser  cavalry  fights. 

The  sun  was  low,  in  a cold,  grey  sky  as  the  train 
made  its  way  into  an  open  plain  swept  by  the  chill 
sea  air  of  the  port  of  Antung.  Shadows  settled 
over  the  rugged  peaks  we  had  been  amongst.  On 
one  side  of  the  line  a big  Manchu  was  hoeing 
in  his  field.  On  the  other  a fine  team  of  six 
mules,  harnessed  in  three  pairs  to  a country  cart, 
was  standing  in  startled  disorder,  the  attention  of 
the  animals  fixed  upon  the  train,  regardless  of  the 
whip  wherewith  their  lusty  driver  endeavoured  to 
get  them  back  into  the  track.  A large-limbed 
peasant  woman,  with  unbound  feet,  had  turned 
unabashed  to  stare.  Close  by  was  an  open  shed, 
in  which  one  could  see  two  little  women  in  butterfly 
obis,  retailing  green  tea  to  Japanese  soldiers — a gay 
stage  scene  in  diminutive. 

The  train  itself  also  repaid  attention.  Though 
on  its  way  out  of  Manchuria,  a land  of  oil- 
seeds and  other  produce  that  pay  well  to  export. 


170  ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 


its  trucks  were  empty  of  goods.  On  the  other 
hand,  it  contained  a queerly  assorted  set  of  pas- 
sengers. I stood  upon  the  platform  of  a bogie  truck. 
My  refined  little  captain,  with  a language  of  Europe 
upon  his  lips,  was  on  one  side  of  me.  On  the  other 
was  a typical  sergeant  of  infantry  with  round,  bucolic 
features,  who  addressed  his  official  superior  fami- 
liarly across  me,  in  Japanese,  in  the  intervals  of  our 
talk.  On  the  open  truck  immediately  in  front  of  us 
were  Japanese  veterans,  on  their  way  home  at  last 
from  the  long  campaign,  clasping  their  rifles,  as  if 
they  loved  them,  against  their  long,  black  overcoats. 
In  the  next  truck  but  one  sat  stout  and  comfortable 
Japanese  traders,  travelling  to  Japan  to  buy  a 
second  or  a third  instalment  of  manufactured  goods 
for  sale  in  the  still  nominally  unopened  markets  of 
Mukden.  Further  up  squatted  Manchu  Chinese, 
one  of  them  with  pendulous  lips  wrapped  around 
the  ragged  edges  of  a tin  of  sugared  chestnuts, 
shared  with  him  by  his  neighbour,  a hospitable 
Japanese  recruit. 

The  Japanese  affects  to  despise  the  Manchurian 
because  he  thinks  him  a coward  ; but  in  ordinary  life 
the  two  races  get  on  pleasantly  together.  The 
Manchurian  holds  his  own.  I have  seen  in  his  case 
none  of  the  personal  contempt  with  which  low-class 
Japanese  too  often  treat  the  Korean. 

The  military  rest-house  at  Antung,  where  I spent 
the  night,  was  typical  of  its  kind  in  Manchuria.  It 
was  a one-storied  house,  built  originally  to  accom- 
modate a Chinese  official.  Its  paper  windows  faced 


ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA  171 


into  the  paved  courtyard,  which  was  guarded  by 
a stout  wooden  gate.  Fireplaces  in  the  outside 
walls  suggested  possibility  of  warmth  within.  A 
yellow-capped  Japanese  soldier  looked  after  me. 
He  had  been  selected  for  this  duty  on  the  ground 
of  knowing  some  English,  which  enabled  him  hos- 
pitably, but  quite  without  reason,  to  lament  his 
inability  “to  welcome  properly.” 

I learnt  before  the  morning  something  of  the 
etiquette  of  a Japanese  officers’  mess,  and  was 
initiated  into  the  ceremonial  of  its  rice  and  pickle 
dinner,  served  on  lacquer-ware,  eaten  with  chop- 
sticks, and  washed  down  with  tiny  cups  of  green 
tea.  We  were  travelling  under  field-service  con- 
ditions, so  I was  able  to  study  the  neatness  and 
efficiency  of  the  officer’s  kit,  which  weighs,  includ- 
ing bedding,  only  forty  pounds.  I was  shown 
besides  the  capacious  overcoat,  and  the  platinum 
rice-boiler  which  make  each  individual  Japanese 
soldier  almost  independent  of  transport,  for  at 
least  three  days  at  a time,  wherever  water  and 
firewood  can  be  procured.  This  equipment  is  not 
brought  out  upon  stated  occasions  only,  but  is  in 
everyday  use  by  both  officers  and  men.  It  is  thus 
under  continual  test.  Deficiencies  and  defects  are 
not  left  to  be  discovered  upon  service,  when  they 
cannot  be  easily  rectified.  Economy  and  simple 
efficiency  are  kept  up,  which  contrast  sharply  with 
the  luxury  in  cantonments  and  elaboration  upon  the 
march  which  obtain  amongst  most  white  troops. 

Officers  in  uniform  who  had  risen  at  dawn  to 


172  ACROSS  SOUTH-EAST  MANCHURIA 


speed  their  parting  comrades  and  guest,  made 
formal  salutes  and  shouted  carefully  framed  sen- 
tences of  kindly  good  wishes,  in  broken  English, 
as  we  clattered  out  of  the  courtyard  of  the 
rest-house  next  morning.  The  route  lay 
through  sleeping  shanties,  to  the  low  river-bank 
which  bounds  the  harbour.  The  neighbourhood 
was  not  attractive.  Shallow  water  a mile  wide 
gleamed  cold  in  the  grey  twilight.  A small 
Japanese  steamer  was  waking  up  in  midstream. 
Along  the  bank  slept  a collection  of  native  river 
craft,  the  broad  sails  lowered  upon  deck,  the  masts 
a forest  of  rough  brown  timber.  Acres  of  ware- 
houses with  grey  corrugated  iron  roofs,  sail-covered 
mounds  of  army  stores,  black  heaps  of  coal  from 
Chen-wang-tao,  and  disordered  stacks  of  squared 
timber  were  dotted  along  the  marshy  shore ; for 
Antung  has  not  forgotten  that  it  was  the  principal 
base  of  the  Japanese  armies  throughout  the  war. 
A ferry-boat,  propelled  with  the  broken-backed 
oars  of  the  Inland  Sea,  carried  us  to  Korean  terri- 
tory across  the  river,  where  a grown-up  train  was 
busily  shunting.  Only  five  miles  up-stream  was  the 
battlefield  of  the  Yalu,  where  the  Japanese  fought 
their  first  serious  engagement ; but  I had  not  time 
to  visit  it.  A sharp  scramble  over  timber  which 
had  floated  from  the  now  confiscated  Russian 
concession  up-country,  a race  for  the  platform, 
and  I had  barely  caught  the  train  which  plies 
along  the  brand-new  Japanese  railway  to  Seoul. 
Manchuria  was  behind  and  Korea  before  me. 


CHAPTER  XV 

DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 

I BEGAN  my  first  day’s  journey  through  Korea 
by  falling  soundly  asleep  in  what,  after  two 
days  in  a truck  on  a half-built  military  railway  in 
Manchuria,  appeared  to  me  exquisite  luxury.  This 
was  the  white-wood,  American-built,  third-class 
corridor  car  that  I found  waiting  for  passengers 
on  the  Korean  side  of  the  Yalu  river. 

The  Japanese  built  the  Korean  line  hurriedly, 
during  the  war.  They  imported  half  of  the  labour 
from  Japan,  and  forced  the  Koreans  to  supply  the 
other  half  upon  pay  which  seems  to  have  been 
sometimes  far  from  adequate.  The  track  traverses 
the  entire  length  of  Korea,  from  Antung,  on  the 
Manchurian  border,  in  the  north,  to  Fusan,  on  the 
straits  of  Tsushima,  in  the  south.  Midway  it 
passes  through  Seoul,  where  a short  American-built 
line  connects  it  with  the  port  of  Chemulpo.  The 
southern  section,  between  Fusan  and  Seoul,  is  in 
full  working  order.  It  has  substantial  girder- 
bridges  and  well-laid  permanent-way.  The 
northern  half,  between  Seoul  and  Antung,  is 

173 


174 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


being  rapidly  improved,  but  has  reached  at 
present  only  to  the  stage  where  trains  must  run 
slowly  by  day  and  not  at  all  at  night.  Shaky 
log  bridges  are  still  in  use,  but  are  being  replaced 
everywhere  by  steel  and  stone  of  modern  pattern. 

The  Japanese  have  good  reason  to  be  proud  of  the 
undertaking.  They  have  had  the  courage  to  adopt 
the  standard  four-foot  eight-inch  gauge,  thereby 
assimilating  it  with  the  Chinese  lines  which  it  will 
ultimately  join,  but  rendering  it  altogether  different 
from  their  own  system  in  Japan,  which  is  still  upon 
the  now  inadequate  metre  gauge.  Their  action  in 
this  matter  is  the  more  enterprising  since  shortage 
of  broad-gauge  rolling  stock  at  the  time  of  the  war 
compelled  them  to  incur  the  enormous  labour  and 
expense  of  reducing  to  narrow  gauge  the  Russian- 
built  line  between  Port  Arthur  and  Mukden.  This 
they  must  now  undo,  for  they  have  no  intention  of 
allowing  any  narrow-gauge  section  in  Manchuria  to 
interpose  between  the  standard-gauge  lines  of  China 
upon  one  side  and  those  of  Korea  upon  the  other. 

Two  formidable  rivers,  the  Yalu  and  the  Liao-ho, 
will  have  to  be  bridged  before  the  long-dreamt-of 
through  line  from  Peking  to  Fusan  will  become  a 
reality.  Japans  object  is  plain,  and  there  can  be 
no  question  either  of  her  ability  or  her  determina- 
tion to  carry  it  into  effect  without  much  delay.  It 
is  to  bring  the  South  China  market  for  Osaka  piece- 
goods,  and  the  Mid-China  ore  supply,  which  is 
required  for  the  Kiusiu  steel  works,  into  connection 
with  Fusan  without  break  of  bulk.  Fusan  is  but 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


175 


half  a short  clay’s  sail  from  large  harbours  upon  the 
Japanese  coast.  Japan  looks  forward  to  sending 
her  own  manufactured  goods  by  rail  to  Peking,  and 
thence  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  China 
as  far  south  as  Canton,  for  Canton  is  certain  to  be 
connected  by  rail  with  Hankow,  and  thus  with 
Peking,  some  day.  In  this  case  she  will  succeed 
to  a position  in  the  markets  of  China  even  more 
commanding  than  that  occupied  there  by  Russia 
prior  to  the  war.  And  railways  which  carry  goods 
can  be  used,  in  case  of  need,  for  troops. 

Japan  sees  no  reason  why  her  commercial  de- 
velopment in  China  should  not  be  peaceful.  She 
sees,  also,  that  the  stronger  her  strategical  position 
there,  the  less  likely  are  other  nations  to  interfere 
with  her  plans.  For  the  time  being  Japan  is  in 
league  with  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States 
to  maintain  the  integrity  of  Chinese  territory,  since 
the  longer  China  can  be  kept  intact  the  more  firmly 
will  Japan  be  able  to  establish  herself  in  a position 
superior  to  that  occupied  by  any  other  nation  in 
the  Far  East.  She  can  afford  to  wait.  It  is  easy 
to  understand,  under  these  circumstances,  the  efforts 
which  Russian  diplomacy  is  making  to  further  the 
pushing  forward,  from  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway, 
of  an  independent  branch  line  to  connect  with  Peking 
by  way  of  Kalgan.  The  weight  of  Germany’s 
influence  is  with  Russia  in  this  matter,  for  Germany 
sees  that  at  present  her  own  schemes  of  develop- 
ment from  her  base  at  Tsingtao  are  in  check,  and 
that  Russia  can  be  used  as  a counterpoise  to  Japan, 


176 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


The  Korean  railway  is  a monument  to  the 
organising  and  constructive  ability  of  the  Japanese 
people.  Unlike  most  of  the  trunk  lines  in  Japan, 
it  was  both  financed  and  built  without  the  inter- 
vention of  either  a foreign  board  of  directors  or  of 
foreign  engineers.  The  engines  and  the  cars  which 
I saw  upon  it  were  of  American  make.  The  signals 
and  the  notices  regarding  them  are  English,  but 
the  engineering  and  traffic  management  are  entirely 
Japanese.  The  trains  run  punctually  and  smoothly, 
and  are  attracting  large  Korean,  as  well  as  Japanese, 
traffic.  The  undertaking  presents  a concrete  ex- 
ample of  Japanese  success  in  a class  of  enterprise 
in  which,  up  to  the  present,  the  Chinese  have  failed 
signally. 

I enquired  somewhat  particularly  into  various 
branches  of  the  organisation.  My  observations 
lead  me  to  believe  that  the  staffs  of  officials  at 
the  stations  are  distinctly  larger  and  somewhat 
more  costly,  upon  the  whole,  in  spite  of  the  low 
pay  of  individual  employees,  than  would  be  the 
case  on  a line  worked  by  Europeans  or  Americans. 
Mistakes  have  been  made  in  taking  Koreans  from 
their  fields,  to  compulsory  labour  upon  the  line  at 
seasons  of  maximum  agricultural  activity,  when  the 
exercise  of  forethought,  in  giving  out  the  railway 
contracts  earlier,  would  have  enabled  the  work  to 
be  accomplished  more  quickly  and  with  less  friction. 
The  Japanese  complain  of  the  Korean  labourer  as 
lazy  and  inefficient.  The  retort  is  made,  on  behalf 
of  the  Korean,  that  the  Japanese  have  neither  the 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


177 


temper  nor  the  capacity  to  handle  alien  labour 
economically.  It  must  be  added  that  the  organisa- 
tion of  the  railway  services  is  efficient.  I was 
especially  struck  by  the  completeness  of  the  police 
arrangements  and  the  excellence  of  the  working 
of  such  conveniences  as  telephone  communication 
between  the  stations.  A small  constable  pounced 
inevitably  upon  me  and  inquired  concernedly  after 
my  permits  if  I allowed  myself  the  relaxation  of 
a stroll  upon  any  wayside  platform  where  the  train 
drew  up  ; and  my  companions  were  able  to  arrange 
by  telephone,  from  Anju,  for  the  forwarding  of 
luggage  left  behind  upon  the  Yalu  river. 

The  indigenous  passengers  to  be  met  with  upon 
the  Manchurian  lines  were  few,  and  the  trains  were 
packed  with  Japanese ; but  the  car  which  I entered 
at  Wiju,  on  the  frontier,  was  crowded  with  Koreans  ; 
the  Japanese  constituted  only  a small  minority. 
The  Korean  is  a fine,  upstanding  individual,  who 
enhances  the  distinction  of  his  appearance  by  some 
of  the  most  wonderful  conceivable  clothes.  From 
his  feet  to  his  neck  his  garments  are  white.  His 
feet  are  covered  by  short,  thick,  snowy  cotton  socks 
with  pointed,  open-worked,  straw  slippers.  The 
remainder  of  his  ample  person  is  enveloped  in  a 
long,  loose  flowing  coat.  His  yellow  hands  and 
face  and  his  black  hats — for  he  wears  two  head- 
covers  at  the  same  time,  one  on  the  top  of  the 
other — make  the  only  colour  marks  upon  him. 

Korean  hats  are  a study  in  themselves.  The  couple 
worn  by  the  ordinary  father  of  a family,  when  not 

N 


178 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


in  mourning,  are  both  constructed  of  open-worked 
horse-hair.  The  one  that  is  put  on  first  is  dome- 
shaped, with  a depression  in  the  front  of  the  top. 
It  is  not  unlike  what  a Bombay  Parsee  s cap  would 
be  if  it  were  made  of  gauze-netting  and  worn  with 
the  front  behind,  and  is  obviously  the  ancestor  of 
the  black  head-dress  of  the  Daimyo  which  is  to  be 
seen  in  many  an  old  Japanese  print.  The  outer 
hat  is  a combination  of  a bird-cage  and  a Welsh- 
woman’s national  head-gear.  It  may,  for  aught 
I know,  also  have  claims  to  be  the  original  of 
the  British  top-hat.  It  fits  over  the  first,  like  a 
thimble  on  a finger,  but  both  are  so  transparent 
that  the  top-knot  of  black  hair,  which  indicates  that 
a man  is  married,  can  be  seen  lying  within  them, 
like  a chop  in  a meat-safe.  The  bachelors  locks 
are  not  done  into  a top-knot,  but  are  allowed  to 
flow.  Until  he  is  married,  therefore,  a man  wears, 
instead  of  the  dome-shaped  underhat,  only  a broad 
band  of  black,  plaited  horse  hair,  intended  to  re- 
strain his  tresses  from  getting  into  his  eyes  and  to 
prevent  the  outside  structure  from  galling  his 
forehead.  My  fellow-passengers  included  Korean 
officials,  whose  national  hats  were  adorned  with 
black  gauze  flaps  and  peaks,  which  turned  them 
into  miniature  pagodas.  In  one  corner  of  the  car 
sat  an  individual  whose  father  had  died  less  than 
a year  previously.  He  wore  a white  cottage-thatch, 
a yard  across,  his  eyes  looking  out  of  a gable  in 
front.  The  Korean,  it  seems,  believes  that  Heaven 
must  be  displeased  with  the  man  who  suffers  be- 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


179 


reavement,  else  why,  he  asks,  should  it  deprive 
him  of  a relative?  He  hides  himself,  therefore,  for 
twelve  months,  from  the  sky,  beneath  an  enormous 
hat,  which  is  white,  to  indicate  his  sorrow.  A 
second  mourner  was  of  older  standing.  He  wore 
a white  topee  which  approached  in  shape  to  that  of 
ordinary  Korean  life.  The  wearer,  in  this  case,  was 
supposed  to  be  approaching  readmission  to  celestial 
favour. 

On  the  seat  in  front  of  me,  was  a Korean 
woman,  in  homely  voluminous  white  petticoat,  the 
first  of  its  kind  I had  seen  worn  by  any  Eastern 
female.  Her  head  was  bound  not  unbecomingly  in  a 
large  white  handkerchief.  A short,  white  jacket,  with 
long,  close-fitting  sleeves,  covered  up  precisely  that 
portion  of  her  person  which  a European  lady  thinks 
fit  to  expose  in  a ballroom,  but  left  bare  some  inches 
of  smooth,  yellow  anatomy  immediately  below. 
Slung  in  cramped  sitting  posture  upon  her  back, 
in  a clean  sheet  knotted  over  her  sturdy  shoulders, 
was  a fine,  black-haired,  tawny-skinned  baby,  which 
purred  good-temperedly  so  long  as  the  mother 
thumped  it  rhythmically  behind ; for  the  blows, 
though  seemingly  severe,  meant,  that  it  was  not 
forgotten.  The  father,  like  every  other  Korean  in 
the  car,  including  the  woman  but  excluding  the 
baby,  smoked  a long  tobacco-pipe.  An  assortment 
of  white  packages  hung  from  his  waistbelt. 

The  Korean  differs  from  the  Japanese  in  washing 
his  clothes  rather  than  his  person.  He  is  a 
pleasant-tempered,  easy-going  fellow.  His  courtesy, 


i8o 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


the  petticoats  of  his  women,  and  his  own  top-hats 
all  seemed  to  me  originals,  beside  which  the 
corresponding  articles  of  the  European  were  but 
pretentious  derivations.  A smart  little  English- 
speaking  Japanese  gentleman,  who  had  discovered 
and  befriended  me  upon  the  train  insisted,  for  my 
edification,  upon  exchanging  his  own  black  frock- 
coat  and  bowler-hat  for  the  flowing  white  robes  of  a 
Korean  lad  alongside.  The  temporary  barter 
having  been  effected  and  the  garments  donned,  he 
demanded  of  me  whether  I found  him  a Japanese 
or  a Korean.  There  was  but  one  answer  possible. 
The  big  Korean  and  the  little  Japanese  had 
changed  themselves  effectually  into  one  another. 
Had  I not  seen  the  transformation  I should  never 
have  suspected  its  possibility,  for  nothing  could 
have  been  more  unlike  than  the  two  individuals  in 
their  respective  national  costumes.  The  resemblance 
in  features  and  expression  is  real  enough  to  justify 
the  well-worn  statement  that  one  must  hit  a Korean 
before  one  can  be  sure  he  is  not  a Japanese.  The 
Korean  apologises;  the  Japanese  hits  back.  My 
Japanese  friend,  in  this  instance,  was  an  enlightened 
member  of  his  race.  His  friendly  playfulness 
towards  his  Korean  fellow-traveller  made  pleasant 
contrast  to  what  I saw  later  on ; for  it  is  un- 
fortunately true  that  patience  and  self-restraint,  in 
dealing  with  a subject  people,  is  not  characteristic 
of  the  Japanese  who  are  now  in  Korea. 

The  wide  plains  and  rugged  gorges  of  Manchuria 
change,  almost  as  soon  as  the  border  is  passed,  into 


IN  HOMELY  VOLUMINOUS  WHITE  PETTICOAT 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


i8i 


scenery  which  might  be  that  of  a Japan  under 
misfortune.  Green  velvet  patches  of  seedling  rice 
are  dotted  over  a brown,  watery  swamp,  on  either 
side  of  the  raised  railway  embankment.  Strong, 
straight-backed  cattle  take  the  place  of  Chinese 
mules.  Green  kopjes  hem  in  the  view,  and  differ 
from  those  of  the  northern  shore  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  chiefly  in  being  neglected  and  bare  instead  of 
covered,  as  in  Japan,  with  carefully  planted  trees. 
Frequent  villages  of  squalid  shanties  flit  past  the 
windows.  One  is  constantly  tempted  to  consider 
how  easily,  given  national  security  and  public  con- 
fidence, these  structures  would  grow  into  the 
pleasant  homesteads  with  their  Noah’s-ark  gardens, 
that  are  one  of  the  happiest  features  of  Hondo. 

Chinese  influence  upon  the  architecture  presented 
itself  in  the  shape  of  chimneys  connecting  with  the 
flues  beneath  the  floors,  which  had  somewhat  in- 
effectually warmed  my  slumbers  at  Antung.  These 
chimneys  are  sufficiently  remarkable.  They  look 
as  if  they  were  constructed  of  packing-case  boards, 
bound  round  with  hay-bands.  I was  told  that  this 
seemingly  dangerous  arrangement  is  less  liable  to 
produce  conflagrations  than  it  appears,  since  the 
chimney  is  the  direct  outlet,  not  of  the  fireplace 
itself,  but  only  of  a series  of  horizontal  brick 
passages  which  conduct  the  smoke  beneath  the 
dwelling-rooms,  from  a fireplace  at  the  other  side  of 
the  building.  The  system  makes  the  Korean  shanty 
one  of  the  warmest  places  imaginable  upon  a cold 
winter  s night.  The  rooms  are  ovens,  capable  of 


i82 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


being  heated  to  any  temperature  that  the  fuel- 
supply  will  allow.  The  reason  my  oven  at  Antung 
was  disappointing  was  because  the  fire  was  out ! 
The  Russians  took  advantage  of  the  inflammable 
nature  of  the  roofs  to  destroy  the  villages  upon  the 
line  of  their  retreat.  I have  heard  this  measure 
criticised  by  Japanese  officers  on  the  ground  that 
it  inflicted  unnecessary  hardship  upon  the  people, 
since  the  houses  held  little  or  nothing  that  was  of 
assistance  to  the  pursuing  Japanese  troops. 

Now  and  again  we  passed  crowds  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, assembled  apparently  with  no  other  object 
than  to  see  the  train  go  by.  A large  proportion 
were  women,  the  balance  equally  idle  men.  All 
looked  clean  and  well-fed.  All  were  attired  in 
white,  sharply  punctuated  by  the  black  hats  of  the 
men.  Along  the  rivers  that  we  crossed  clothes- 
washing  could  be  seen  in  active  operation.  The 
industry  takes  up  so  much  of  the  energies  of  the 
people  that  the  Japanese  are  bringing  pressure  to 
bear  to  restrict  the  wearing  of  white,  for  they 
imagine  that  the  Korean  might  do  more  work  if 
he  were  not  engaged  so  perpetually  in  washing  his 
garments. 

The  Peking  road,  the  one  track  in  the  country 
which  can  claim  to  be  a highway,  was  visible 
occasionally.  It  runs,  more  or  less  parallel  to  the 
railway,  from  one  end  of  Korea  to  the  other.  The 
Japanese  improved  it  at  the  time  of  the  war,  to 
enable  artillery  to  proceed  along  it ; but  its  present 
condition  is  poor.  I was  told  by  men  who  have 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


183 


used  it  recently  that  many  of  its  bridges  are  still 
of  the  Korean  type,  which  means  that  they  are 
dism.antled  every  rainy  season  and  piled  upon  the 
banks  to  remain  unutilised  until  the  floods  subside. 
Loaded  carts  are  left  stuck  in  it  for  months  waiting 
for  the  surface  of  the  soil  to  dry  sufficiently  to 
enable  them  to  be  extricated.  In  the  summer  the 
road  is  sometimes  a foot  deep  in  dust. 

Half-way  to  Seoul,  beneath  the  battlemented 
walls  of  an  old  Korean  city,  I saw  the  location  of 
the  first  fight  of  the  war.  The  engagement  was 
between  Japanese  infantry  and  raiding  Russian 
cavalry.  It  was  these  Russians  who  burnt  the 
Korean  villages  so  ruthlessly  as  they  retreated. 
To-day,  however,  the  Korean  hates  the  Japanese 
far  more  bitterly  than  ever  he  hated  the  other 
invader. 

The  train  pulled  up  for  the  night  outside  the  city 
of  Pingyang.  The  land  on  which  the  railway  station 
is  situated  is  of  considerable  value,  and  the  taking  of 
it  up  has  been  quoted  to  me  by  members  of  the  anti- 
Japanese  party  in  Korea  as  a typical  example  of  the 
high-handedness  of  their  new  masters.  A number 
of  Koreans  were  evicted  from  their  houses  with 
little  ceremony  and  less  compensation.  Much  hard- 
ship was  caused  and  friction  was  increased  by  the 
action  of  individual  Japanese  immigrants,  who  were 
allowed  to  add  to  the  confusion  by  confiscating 
property  upon  their  own  account.  In  the  disorder 
that  arose,  the  Koreans  complain  that  neither 
justice  nor  protection  was  extended  to  them.  It 


184 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


was  only  reasonable  that  the  Japanese  should  take 
up  the  land.  The  railway  is  the  single  reliable 
means  of  locomotion  in  the  country,  and  the  sur- 
roundings of  its  stations  are  certain  to  become 
valuable.  It  is  not  unfair  that  the  increment 
should  be  appropriated  by  those  who  had  the 
enterprise  to  build  the  line.  As  to  the  methods 
adopted,  much  may  be  forgiven  of  a people 
engaged,  as  the  Japanese  were,  in  a life-and- 
death  struggle  with  a great  Power  ; but  it  cannot 
be  denied  that  mismanagement  occurred,  and  that 
steps  which  might  have  been  taken  later  on  to 
restore  confidence  were  unduly  postponed. 

Pingyang  is  a typical  Korean  city.  Its  streets, 
though  narrow,  are  far  wider  and  cleaner  than 
those  of  native  Canton  and  Shanghai.  It  has  fine 
old  stone  gateways  and  bastions  which  recall  the 
architecture  of  China ; but  its  one-storied  houses 
and  its  inhabitants  remind  one  at  every  step,  of 
Japan.  It  is  located  upon  high  ground,  on  the 
bank  of  one  of  the  numerous  rivers  of  clear,  rip- 
pling water,  which  are  as  noticeable  a feature  of 
Korea  as  of  Japan.  I found  the  barley  crop  which, 
three  days  earlier  at  Mukden,  had  been  but  just 
above  the  ground,  already  in  Korea  ripe  for  the 
harvest.  The  cold  wind  of  the  north  had  given 
place  to  warm,  balmy  breezes.  The  people  lack 
the  stimulating  atmosphere  which  has  fostered  the 
hardy  Manchu. 

The  train  reaches  Seoul  on  the  evening  of  the 
second  day  after  leaving  the  Yalu.  It  halts  at  the 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


185 


capital  for  the  night.  The  following  daylight  hours 
carry  it  right  through  to  Fusan.  On  the  way  it 
traverses  some  difficult  country.  The  Diamond 
Mountains,  which  shut  off  the  people  of  the  south 
of  the  peninsula  from  those  of  the  north,  are  passed 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  final  day.  Here  are  a 
number  of  troublesome  tunnels  which  afford  a 
good  example  of  Japanese  engineering  skill.  The 
mountain  range,  until  the  railway  came,  was  so 
hard  of  passage  that  it  created  an  ethnological 
parting  which  is  apparent  to-day  in  the  fact  that 
the  inhabitants,  on  one  side,  approximate  to  those 
of  Japan,  and  on  the  other  have  closer  relations 
with  Central  Asia  and  China.  The  range  is  a 
dividing  line  no  longer. 

At  the  moment,  Korea  is  in  a critical  position.  In 
every  locality  that  I halted  at,  traversing  the  country 
from  the  north  to  the  south,  I heard  similar  testi- 
mony. All  of  it  tended  to  show  that  the  Japanese 
have  made  a most  unfortunate  start  with  their 
administration  of  the  country.  In  Seoul  I looked 
into  carved  wooden  chambers  in  the  deserted  North 
Palace,  where  the  queen  of  the  present  Emperor 
of  Korea  was  murdered,  one  night  fourteen  years 
ago,  by  members  of  the  Japanese  party,  including 
police.  Purple  irises  have  blossomed,  season  after 
season,  since  then,  in  the  shadow  of  the  royal  seven- 
clawed  dragons  of  the  pagoda-roofed  structure. 
Seedling  pines  in  the  shrubbery  behind,  have 
pushed  up  into  trees,  as  the  Emperor  s sons  have 
grown  into  manhood  ; but  the  pillared  dancing-hall 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


1 86 

has  stood  deserted,  the  royal  fish-ponds  are  choked 
with  weeds,  and  the  cane-bucket  of  the  old  stone 
well  in  the  garden  has  hung  unused.  The  Emperor 
has  refused  to  return  to  his  violated  house.  The 
hundred  yellow  cardboard  rooms  of  the  dead  Queen  s 
quarters  are  still  in  the  disorder  in  which  they  were 
left  on  the  night  of  the  murder.  The  brown  stain 
of  royal  blood  upon  the  floor  has  not  been  washed 
out. 

It  might  have  been  supposed  that,  in  fourteen 
years,  the  Japanese  would  have  lived  down  or 
worked  out  the  memory  of  this  unfortunate  incident : 
but  they  have  not.  The  Korean  considers  that 
what  has  since  happened  is  entirely  in  keeping  with 
the  beginning.  The  European  in  Korea  is  only 
one  degree  less  despondent,  though,  unlike  the 
Korean,  he  is  prepared  to  make  allowance.  The 
Japanese  soldier  in  the  field  has  proved  himself 
considerate  and  merciful  as  well  as  brave  and 
efficient ; but  the  same  cannot  be  said  of  the 
Japanese  proletariat  in  Korea.  Assaults  by 
Japanese  upon  both  Koreans  and  Europeans  have 
been  unfortunately  frequent.  In  such  cases  as  the 
one  which  occurred  the  day  before  I reached  Seoul, 
where  the  Catholic  bishop  was  mishandled  in  his 
own  cathedral  by  Japanese  soldiers  in  uniform,  the 
offenders  were  identified  and  redress  has  been 
obtained ; but  this  seems  to  have  been  the  exception 
rather  than  the  rule.  I do  not  attach  importance  to 
isolated  instances  of  the  cuffing  of  Koreans  by 
Japanese  which  I myself  witnessed,  though  the 


YELLOW  CARDBOARD  ROOMS  OF  THE  DEAD  QUEEN’S  QUARTERS 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


187 

spirit  thus  accidentally  betrayed  made  a very  un- 
favourable impression  upon  me  at  the  time.  What 
I saw  was  confined  to  the  lower  orders  of  each 
people  ; and  I had  no  means  of  ascertaining  the 
nature  of  the  provocation  given.  It  would  be 
foolish,  however,  to  overlook  the  opinion  which  I 
found  general  amongst  merchants,  missionaries,  and 
other  Europeans  resident  in  the  country,  and  which 
was  expressed  to  me  with  varying  degree  of  reser- 
vation, according  as  the  sympathies  of  the  individual 
were  for  or  against  the  Japanese.  The  few 
Koreans  I talked  with  were  unable  to  restrain  the 
violence  of  their  antipathy  to  the  ruling  race. 

A story  was  told  me  by  a European  resident  of 
Tokyo,  who  happened  to  be  visiting  Korea  at  the 
same  time  as  myself,  which  illustrates  the  nawetd  of 
the  Korean’s  attitude  of  disapproval.  At  an  official 
dinner  party  in  Seoul  the  European  found  himself 
seated  next  to  a highly  ^educated  Korean  official, 
who  spoke  English  fluently.  The  Korean  conversed 
freely  and  pleasantly  upon  every  topic  that  came  up 
until  the  fact  emerged  that  his  neighbour  spent 
most  of  his  time  in  Japan.  His  tone  then  changed 
abruptly.  He  said  stiffly  that  he  could  not  under- 
stand how  any  one  could  live  in  the  country  belong- 
ing to  such  a people,  and  then,  to  further  show  his 
displeasure,  turned  his  back  upon  the  European  and 
did  not  say  another  word  to  him  throughout  the 
remainder  of  the  evening. 

Japan  is  accused  of  breaking  faith  in  this 
country  and  in  Manchuria  with  the  European 


i88 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


Powers.  By  treaty,  she  is  bound  to  respect  local 
autonomy,  and  to  give  foreigners  the  same  oppor- 
tunity in  conducting  trade  and  in  exploiting  the 
mineral  resources  as  her  own  subjects  enjoy.  I 
have  been  told  by  men  whose  honesty  cannot  be 
doubted  that  this  is  not  being  done.  European 
and  American  merchants  and  mining  engineers  find 
their  operations  hampered  in  many  ways.  The 
popular  party  in  Japan,  who  hold  that  the  con- 
quered territory,  having  been  won  by  Japanese 
blood,  should  be  administrated  to  Japanese  advan- 
tage alone,  have  enthusiastic  supporters  in  the 
military  element  upon  the  spot.  Systematic  at- 
tempts, of  an  official  nature,  have  been  made  to 
push  on  Japanese  enterprise  of  every  kind  to  the 
detriment  of  the  foreigner.  The  Japanese  control 
practically  the  whole  of  the  railways  throughout 
Korea  and  Manchuria.  They  threw  these  open  to 
their  own  people  months  before  they  allowed 
foreigners  to  make  use  of  them.  Godowns  in 
Shanghai  are  overflowing  with  British  and  American 
manufactured  articles  awaiting  access  to  the  region 
under  Japanese  influence.  European  prospectors 
have  been  denied  access  to  the  interior,  while  a 
shipload  of  mining  engineers,  in  the  employ  of  the 
Japanese  authorities,  has  been  allowed  to  proceed 
inland.  New  mining  rules  unfavourable  to  outsiders 
are  being  drafted.  The  provisions  of  the  customs, 
which  guarantee  equality  of  treatment  to  all  alike, 
are  being  respected  ; but  their  spirit  is  alleged  to 
have  suffered  violence  since  the  Japanese  relieved 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


189 


Mr.  McLeavy  Brown,  the  member  of  Sir  Robert 
Hart  s capable  staff,  who  was  previously  in  charge. 

There  is  something  to  be  said  in  palliation  of  the 
view  taken  by  the  Japanese  popular  party.  It  is 
impossible  to  deny  that  a nation,  which  has  made 
the  great  sacrifices  of  Japan,  has  acquired  moral,  if 
not  treaty,  rights  of  a very  far-reaching  kind  in  the 
territories  concerned.  The  existence  of  a campaign 
of  calumny  against  Japan,  organised  by  corrupt 
Korean  officialdom  which  sees  itself  superseded, 
must  also  be  taken  into  account.  When  all  allow- 
ances have  been  made,  however,  there  remains  a 
situation  which  is  certainly  open  to  criticism. 

It  is  necessary  to  add  that  since  the  arrival  of 
Marquis  I to,  as  administrator  at  Seoul,  the  Japanese 
attitude  in  Korea  has  been  modified.  Marquis  I to, 
veteran  as  he  is,  is  still  the  ablest  man  that  Japan 
possesses,  and  he  recognises  that  his  countrymen 
have  gone  too  far.  He  professes  the  absolute  and,  I 
believe,  entirely  sincere  determination  to  hold  Japan 
to  the  spirit  as  well  as  to  the  letter  of  the  treaties 
by  which  she  is  bound  ; but  he  is  committed  to  no 
simple  task.  His  view  is  in  opposition  to  popular 
sentiment,  alike  in  the  army  of  occupation  in 
Korea  and  amongst  the  general  public  in  Japan. 
Already  there  has  been  some  friction  with  the 
military  authorities  in  Seoul,  who  are  being 
superseded  by  civilians.  The  Japanese  Govern- 
ment have  decided,  however,  to  support  Marquis 
I to,  whose  policy  is  to  govern  Korea  by  and  through 
the  existing  Korean  Government,  and  to  retain  in 


tgo 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  KOREA 


Manchuria  only  that  control  of  the  railways,  coal- 
mines, and  lumber  concessions  which  belongs  to 
Japan  by  treaty.  Marquis  I to  insists  upon  two 
things:  first,  that  the  Korean  Government  shall  act 
honestly  and  obey  him  in  all  things  ; and  second, 
that  the  Chinese  administration  in  Manchuria  shall 
afford  adequate  protection  to  life  and  property.  This 
leaves  Japan  a wide  margin  for  action.  It  may 
be  anticipated  that  the  attitude  of  the  official  on 
the  spot  will  be  scrupulously  correct ; but  one  is 
forced  to  the  cynical  conclusion  that  foreign  traders 
would  be  unwise  to  suppose,  on  this  account,  that 
their  own  prospects  will  change,  without  external 
pressure,  very  materially  for  the  better. 


CHAPTER  XVI 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 

Almost  any  experienced  Anglo-Indian  ad- 
ministrator, who  had  not  been  a conspicuous 
failure  in  his  own  province,  could  make  Korea  into 
a fairly  prosperous  and  contented  country  in  ten 
years,  if  he  were  placed  in  charge  and  given  a free 
hand.  Japanese  statesmen  may  take  thirty  years 
and  some  fighting  to  do  the  same  thing  ; but  they 
will  succeed  in  the  end. 

The  land,  though  not  so  rich  as  in  many  parts  of 
China,  is  able  to  support  a very  much  larger  popu- 
lation than  is  now  upon  it.  Wide  areas  are  capable 
of  profitable  irrigation.  Gold  and  other  valuable 
minerals  exist  in  paying  quantity.  The  bare  hills, 
so  often  described  as  worthless,  are  no  more  sterile 
than  are  the  almost  exactly  identical  formations  in 
Japan,  where  the  energy  of  the  administration  has 
covered  them  with  profitable  forests.  The  Korean 
is  improvident  and  lazy  only  because  he  has  been 
systematically  robbed,  for  many  generations,  of  all 
margin  over  bare  sustenance  that  he  may  scrape 
together.  His  manly  qualities  have  disappeared 


192 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


under  continued  oppression.  The  white  engineers 
who  direct  the  large  and  profitable  gold-mining 
industry,  established  by  an  American  company  to 
the  north  of  Pingyang,  have  discovered  that  the 
Korean  labourer  makes  one  of  the  best  miners  in  the 
world.  Experts  upon  the  spot  have  told  me  that, 
upon  the  average,  taking  a six-months’  spell  as  a 
test,  two  ordinary  Korean  miners,  upon  a shilling 
a day  apiece,  are  slightly  superior,  in  working 
efficiency,  to  one  Cornish  or  Californian  pitman  on 
eight  times  this  pay.  Korean  labour  mining  thus 
costs,  when  tactfully  handled,  only  a quarter  of 
European.  The  Korean  workman,  however,  re- 
quires to  be  humoured,  and  this  the  Japanese  have 
not  yet  perceived  to  their  profit. 

A Japanese  coal-mine  owner  in  Kiusiu  gave  me 
particulars  of  an  experiment  tried  two  years  ago  in 
that  island,  of  importing  two  hundred  Koreans  as 
miners.  He  declared  that  the  trial  had  proved  the 
Korean  a failure.  Only  half  a dozen  of  the  batch  re- 
main upon  the  mine  ; and  no  more  are  being  im- 
ported. The  pay  appears  to  have  been  reasonable, 
and  the  treatment  not  unkindly ; but  the  men  would 
not  stand  the  restrictions  which  .were  imposed  upon 
their  liberty.  They  deserted  because  the  manage- 
ment insisted  upon  requiring  them  to  work  regularly 
for  the  full  daily  spell  of  eight  hours  which  had  been 
adopted  in  the  mine  to  suit  the  Japanese  pitman. 
Rather  than  change  this  arrangement,  the  Japanese 
directors  gave  up  the  experiment,  and  went  back  to 
an  exclusively  Japanese  labour  force.  This  rigidity 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


193 


is  characteristic  of  their  experiment  in  more  than 
one  direction,  and  it  will  take  time  to  induce  them 
to  abandon  it.  Sympathy  with  other  races  is  the 
slowest  growth  in  the  world,  and  the  Japanese  is 
peculiarly  without  it. 

The  experience  of  most  European  employers  of 
labour  in  Korea  and  that  of  certain  white  planters 
in  Hawaii,  who  have  imported  Korean  labour  to 
work  upon  their  estates,  is  totally  different.  It  is 
significant,  also,  that  in  constructing  the  main 
railway  through  Korea,  the  Japanese  themselves 
have  employed  a continually  increasing  proportion 
of  Koreans,  more  Koreans  and  fewer  Japanese 
being  taken  on  as  the  work  progressed.  Europeans 
in  Korea,  who  have  utilised  Koreans  as  watch- 
men, and  inspired  them  with  confidence  that  they 
would  be  supported  in  the  discharge  of  their 
duties,  have  been  able  to  tell  me  of  Japanese 
and  other  marauders  tackled  and  disarmed,  though 
outnumbering  the  Korean  custodians. 

Japanese  officers,  on  the  other  hand,  say  that,  in 
their  experience,  whenever  Korean  police  are  sent 
against  Hunchuses  they  show  the  white  feather,  the 
Korean  officers  often  setting  the  example  to  their 
men  in  running  away  from  the  enemy.  The 
Japanese  coolie  thinks  nothing  of  hitting  a Korean 
to  make  him  get  out  of  the  way  in  the  street,  being 
confident  that  there  will  be  no  retaliation.  This 
state  of  things  arises  far  more  from  past  oppression 
than  from  present  physical  fear.  The  Korean  is  a 
coward,  not  because  he  is  incapable  of  courage,  but 


194 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


because  he  has  learnt,  by  bitter  and  long-extended 
experience,  that  no  justice  will  be  given  him  by  his 
rulers.  He  accepts  insult  and  injury  lest  a worse 
thing  befall  him.  The  laziness  for  which  he  is 
famous  also  admits  of  some  explanation.  Until  the 
Japanese  arrived  in  Korea  no  private  rights  in 
immovable  property  were  recognised  by  the  local 
officials.  The  possession  of  wealth  had  become 
undesirable,  since  all  it  could  do  for  the  owner 
was  to  subject  him  to  the  rapacity  of  the  tax- 
gatherer.  The  system  of  forced  labour  taught  the 
labourer  to  dawdle.  The  ordinary  incentives  to 
industry  and  thrift,  obtaining  elsewhere  throughout 
the  world,  were  absent.  The  Korean  became 
thriftless,  idle,  and  cowardly  because  there  was  no 
reward  for  providence,  industry,  or  courage.  The 
present  is  but  the  natural  sequel  to  the  past ; but  this 
does  not  show  that  nothing  better  is  possible  in  the 
future.  The  easy-going  Korean  is  as  able  to 
become  manly  as  the  once  cowardly  Egyptian  culti- 
vator has  proved  capable  of  conversion  into  the 
soldier  who  stood  firm  before  his  former  conqueror 
at  Omdurman. 

There  is  no  lack  of  material.  Nothing  struck  me 
so  much,  in  going  through  Korea,  as  the  crowds 
of  fine  men  and  women  I saw  standing  about  in  this 
inherited  idleness.  The  Korean  is  strong-bodied, 
pleasant-mannered,  and  good-tempered.  He  wants 
but  right  handling  to  prosper.  Missionaries  who 
have  lived  long  in  the  interior  tell  me  they  have 
found  no  sneak- thieving.  Crimes  of  violence 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


195 


are  rare.  European  women  and  children  can  travel 
across  country,  attended  only  by  their  chair-coolies, 
without  fear  of  violence  or  insult.  The  Korean 
official  is  hopelessly  corrupt  and  inefficient,  but 
his  rule  has  seldom  been  questioned  seriously. 
Moreover,  this  mild-mannered  people  are  loyally 
attached  to  their  pathetic  Emperor,  and  do  not 
lay  their  misfortunes  to  the  blame  of  his  ridiculous 
Court. 

A new  era  has  now  commenced,  though  cautiously. 
Marquis  Ito  s official  position  is  that  merely  of  ad- 
viser to  the  Korean  Government,  and  nominally  the 
Korean  Emperor  and  his  Korean  ministers  continue 
to  rule.  Practically,  the  Japanese  control  everything 
and  exercise  all  real  authority.  To  get  permission 
in  Seoul  even  to  collect  turf  for  one’s  garden,  one 
must  obtain  Japanese,  not  Korean,  consent.  Not 
one  penny  of  the  revenue  that  filters  into  the  public 
treasury  can  be  spent  without  Japanese  sanction. 
A Japanese  financial  officer  has  been  appointed  to 
see  to  this  matter.  He  is  getting  together  as- 
sistants, nominally  to  help  the  Korean  officials  to 
collect  the  taxes,  really  to  control  them  absolutely. 
Japanese  police  officers  have  been  lent  to  the 
Korean  Government  and  are  exercising  influ- 
ence over  the  district  administration.  The  Korean 
system  that  is  being  displaced  is  rotten  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom,  and  now  that  opportunity  to 
squeeze  the  people  is  taken  away  from  the  officials, 
the  fact  has  become  apparent  that  these  latter  have 
no  sufficient  means  of  support.  The  ebbing  of  the 


196 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


fiscal  tide  has  left  them  high  and  dry,  a new  and 
embarrassing  class  of  State  paupers. 

Intrigue  is  afoot  in  Seoul  with  every  foreign 
power  that  will  condescend  to  lend  its  sympathies 
to  the  helpless  Korean  Court.  Local  insurrections 
have  become  common  throughout  the  country,  and 
the  Japanese  accuse  the  Korean  officials  of  foment- 
ing them.  The  evicted  bureaucrat  hates  with  a 
bitter  hatred  the  people  who  are  taking  from  him  his 
cherished  power  and  means  of  livelihood,  and  is  no 
doubt  rousing  whatever  is  capable  of  being  roused 
in  the  minds  of  his  humbler  fellow-countrymen,  who 
have  also  their  own  grievances  against  their  new 
masters.  Under  Korean  rule,  the  ordinary  in- 
surrection was  a very  mild  affair.  It  occurred  on 
the  frequent  occasions  when  exactions  exceeded 
what  local  opinion  would  tolerate,  beginning  with 
the  assemblage  of  a noisy  mob  outside  the  yamen 
concerned,  and  ending,  as  a rule,  with  the  hasty 
flight  of  the  official  whose  squeezes  had  become 
unbearable.  Ordinary  people  continued  their  avo- 
cations. I have  heard  of  European  ladies  being 
carried  in  their  chairs,  without  mishap,  through  the 
ranks  of  an  insurgent  gathering  that  blocked  their 
way.  These  risings  are  now  more  formidable,  and 
there  has  been  some  loss  of  life  in  putting  them 
down  ; but  the  Japanese  power  is  overwhelming,  and 
nothing  in  the  country  can  challenge  it  seriously. 

The  Japanese  programme  is  definite.  The 
Korean  courts  of  justice  are  notoriously  unsatis- 
factory. Bribery  and  corruption  are  rampant ; and 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


197 


this  is  necessarily  the  first  matter  to  be  attended  to. 
As  an  initial  step  Marquis  I to  proposes  to  set  up 
a new  High  Court  in  Seoul  for  the  trial  of 
appeals  from  the  Japanese  consular  courts.  These 
consular  courts  are  located  in  the  principal  com- 
mercial centres,  having  been  established,  when 
Korea  was  still  independent,  for  the  trial  of  cases 
in  which  Japanese  subjects  were  concerned.  An 
appeal  from  these  lay  to  the  Japanese  court  at 
Nagasaki.  The  new  court  at  Seoul  therefore 
replaces  the  Nagasaki  tribunal,  and  will  entertain, 
at  first,  only  cases  in  which  Japanese  are  concerned. 
Eventually,  Marquis  Ito  hopes  to  extend  its  jurisdic- 
tion to  all  appeals,  from  the  decisions  of  the  local 
Korean  courts,  as  well  as  from  the  consular  courts, 
irrespective  of  whether  the  parties  are  Japanese  or 
Koreans.  The  local  Korean  courts  are  to  continue 
to  exist  beside  the  Japanese  consular  courts  in  the 
hope  that  this  may  teach  them  to  emulate  the  im- 
ported probity.  But  J apanese  expectation  of  improv- 
ing Korean  justice  by  means  of  precept  and  example 
is  not  likely  to  be  fulfilled  until  sufficient  pay  is 
given  to  the  Korean  judges  to  raise  them  above 
temptation  to  be  corrupt.  This  is  a matter  which 
the  Japanese  are  considering,  but  on  which  they 
had  taken  no  action  up  to  the  time  I left  Seoul. 
Subjects  of  the  European  powers,  resident  in 
Korea,  will  continue  to  be  tried  by  their  own 
consuls. 

In  regard  to  education  and  police  reform  Japan 
is  resorting  to  the  expedient  of  lending  Japanese 


198 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


officers  to  the  Korean  Government.  In  other 
words,  Japanese  are  being  put  in  to  exercise  control 
and  to  introduce  Japanese  methods.  Long  ago, 
the  Korean  Emperor  ordered  all  his  subjects  to 
send  their  children  to  school  under  pain  of  his 
royal  displeasure  ; but  little  else  was  done.  There 
were  hardly  any  schools  in  existence,  so  compliance 
was  impossible.  The  Japanese  are  endeavouring 
to  remedy  this  by  starting  schools  in  the  principal 
centres.  Japanese  schoolmasters,  of  a kind,  are 
fairly  cheap.  They  will  teach  the  Japanese 
language,  if  nothing  else.  Their  distribution  over 
the  country  is  desirable,  even  if  their  object  be 
rather  to  Japanise  the  people  than  to  instruct  them 
in  general  knowledge.  Everywhere  they  will  stand 
for  order.  Everywhere  they  will  represent  Japanese 
interests,  report  sedition  to  headquarters  and  be 
points  from  which  the  influence  of  Tokyo  will 
radiate.  This  is  to  the  interest  of  the  Koreans, 
for  their  fate  is  now  bound  up  with  that  of  Japan. 
Promises  of  autonomy  are  only  misleading,  and  the 
sooner  the  people  recognise  that  the  old  order  has 
disappeared  the  more  likely  are  they  to  settle  down 
into  good  citizens  under  the  new. 

The  Japanese  police  officers  will  be  similarly 
useful.  They  are  certain  to  be  more  honest  than 
the  Korean  officials.  They  may  not  be  altogether 
mild  or  always  considerate  in  their  methods  ; but 
the  Koreans  will  find  that  the  protection  they  will 
afford  is  real,  and  that  rogues  have  more  reason  to 
dread  them  than  have  respectable  citizens.  A 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


199 


useful  proclamation  has  been  issued  declaring  that 
private  ownership  in  immovable  property  is  to  be 
recognised.  This  no  doubt  will  be  taken  to  heart 
by  predatory  Japanese  immigrants,  as  well  as  by 
Korean  officials  whose  ideas  of  the  rights  of 
private  property  are  also  confused. 

Progress  is  being  made,  meanwhile,  with  the 
development  of  the  material  resources  of  the 
country.  The  Japanese  have  lent  to  Korea  a 
considerable  sum  of  money  for  public  works, 
upon  terms  which  I heard  criticised  in  Seoul  as 
more  onerous  than  the  state  of  the  unofficial 
money  market  justifies,  the  security  being  the 
excellent  one  of  the  practically  unmortgaged 
Korean  customs.  This  money  is  being  laid  out 
by  Japanese  engineers  upon  improving  the  har- 
bours and  other  works.  The  primary  object  is  to 
help  the  Japanese  trader,  but  obviously  and  no  less 
surely,  it  will  benefit  Korea.  The  money  spent 
upon  the  fine  Japanese  military  railway,  from  Fusan 
to  Antung,  which  I have  had  occasion  to  refer  to  so 
often,  is  to  be  refunded  to  Japan  out  of  the  amount. 
Undoubtedly  the  line  is  one  of  the  greatest  boons 
that  has  ever  been  conferred  upon  the  country.  It 
would  be  cheap  to  the  inhabitants  at  almost  any 
cost ; and,  as  far  as  I could  ascertain,  after  making 
allowances  for  Korean  complaints  against  Japanese 
methods  in  connection  with  the  taking  up  of  land 
for  its  construction,  the  cost  is  by  no  means  un- 
reasonable. The  roads  and  irrigation  works,  that 
are  so  badly  wanted  to  increase  the  prosperity  of 


200 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


the  country,  are  certain  to  be  supplied  eventually 
under  Japanese  rule.  The  planting  up  of  the 
barren  hill-sides  is  another  matter  upon  which  the 
new  administrators  have  an  eye. 

This  brief  account  of  the  situation  which  exists 
in  Korea  would  not  be  complete  without  some 
further  reference  to  Marquis  I to,  who  stands  for 
justice  to  the  Korean.  The  Marquis  had  gone  to 
Japan,  to  discuss  the  situation  with  the  central 
Government,  just  before  I reached  Seoul.  It  was 
not  until  I arrived  at  Tokyo,  therefore,  that  I had 
an  opportunity  of  meeting  him.  I found  him 
eventually  in  an  unpretentious,  two-storied  villa 
on  a small  hill  overlooking  the  capital  of  his  country. 
I was  shown  into  a cheerful  room  which  was  car- 
peted and  furnished  in  ordinary  European  style,  but 
relieved  from  banality  by  a single  giant  spray  of 
pink  and  white  peony  arranged  with  dainty  light- 
ness in  the  full  cross-light  of  two  big  windows. 
A solidly  built  Japanese  gentleman,  in  European 
frock-coat,  with  a small  red  and  white-rayed 
button  in  the  lappet,  walked  in  briskly.  At  the 
moment  I was  chiefly  aware  of  a pair  of  some- 
what dimmed  brown  eyes,  with  typical  Japanese 
lids,  beneath  a wide,  domed  forehead  surmounted 
with  closely  brushed  grey  hair.  As  we  talked 
the  external  marks  of  personality  faded  and  two 
very  un-Oriental  characteristics  took  their  place — 
simplicity  and  straightness.  I saw  an  I to  grown 
old,  but  as  full  of  energy  and  confidence  as  the 
boy  he  was  when  he  smuggled  himself  aboard 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


201 


an  outward-bound  ship  on  the  quest  of  what 
Europe  could  teach  Japan.  I saw  a man,  whose 
quiet  voice  and  gentle  manner  inspired  confidence 
in  the  rectitude  of  the  resolve  of  the  Japanese 
leaders  to  comply  with  the  self-denying  conditions 
to  which  they  have  agreed.  The  discussion  ranged 
over  the  whole  field  of  Japanese  policy  in  Man- 
churia and  Korea.  He  outlined  schemes  for  handing 
over  Manchuria  to  the  Chinese  Government  as  soon 
as  guarantees  should  be  forthcoming  for  the  pro- 
tection of  life  and  property  from  brigands,  and 
arrangements  concluded  for  the  disposal  of  public 
works  executed  by  Japanese  officers  in  Neuchwang 
and  other  ports.  He  went  into  the  matters  of  the 
railways  and  coal-mining  rights  which  Japan  retains, 
and  of  the  Yalu  lumber  concessions,  taken  over 
from  the  Russians,  which  are  to  be  worked  by  joint 
Japanese  and  Chinese  enterprise.  We  talked  of 
Japanese  reforms  in  Korea,  the  autonomy  to  be 
allowed  to  the  Korean  Government,  the  facilities  to 
be  given  to  Europeans  in  exploiting  the  commercial, 
industrial,  and  mining  riches  of  the  country,  of 
Japanese  adherence  to  treaties  made  with  Korea 
by  every  European  nation,  except  Russia,  and  the 
Japanese  repudiation  of  Russian  arrangements. 

Marquis  I to  reminded  me  that  Korea  was  the  ally 
of  Japan  in  the  war  with  Russia,  and  that  it  was 
the  intention  of  Japan  to  treat  her  as  such.  He 
dwelt  upon  the  determination  of  the  Government 
he  represents  to  give  equality  of  opportunity  to  all 
legitimate  foreign  enterprise  in  the  peninsula.  His 


202 


THE  FUTURE  OF  KOREA 


enthusiasm  was  contagious  when  he  expressed  his 
belief  that  honest  and  efficient  administration  and 
even-handed  justice  are  capable  of  restoring  pros- 
perity to  the  country,  and  of  raising  its  unfortunate 
inhabitants  from  the  abject  condition  into  which 
they  have  fallen.  In  one  respect  he  saw  that  the 
task  which  Japan  has  before  her  in  Korea  is  easier 
than  that  which  has  confronted  Great  Britain  in 
Egypt,  since  Korea  is  practically  free  from  debt, 
whereas  Egypt  was  not.  It  is  pleasant  to  remember 
that  Marquis  I to  is  still  the  most  influential  states- 
man in  Japan.  The  humane  and  hopeful  policy 
which  he  stands  for  in  Korea  has  at  least  the 
impetus  lent  by  a commanding  and  beloved 
personality. 


BENEATH  THE  WALLS  OF'  AN  OLD  KOREAN  CITY 


CHAPTER  XVII 

THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 

IT  is  easily  forgotten  that  the  proportions  of  the 
share  which  Japan  will  take  in  the  future  of 
the  Far  East  depend  upon  the  peaceful  as  well 
as  upon  the  warlike  capabilities  of  her  people  and 
civilisation. 

Japanese  have  established  themselves  in  all 
parts  of  the  Far  East.  Every  open  port  in  China 
has  a well-kept  Japanese  settlement  inhabited  by 
a prosperous  community.  Two  thousand  cheerful 
little  traders,  including  men,  women,  and  children, 
have  crowded  to  Harbin  on  business  since  last 
September,  when  railway  communication  was  first 
restored  between  that  hitherto  exclusively  Russian 
centre  and  the  Port  Arthur  that  is  now  a Japanese 
city.  Kimono-clad  merchants  have  started  shops 
and  banking  houses,  and  are  hawking  the  wares  of 
Kobe  and  Osaka  in  every  considerable  Chinese  city 
from  Canton  to  Mukden.  Well-found  Japanese 
steamers  are  to  be  seen  wherever  there  is  water 
to  float  in  and  cargo  to  carry  at  a profit.  The 
Japanese  ironworks  which  are  to  be  established 

203 


204 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


upon  the  Yangtse  will  be  one  of  the  biggest 
concerns  of  the  kind  in  Asia.  Japanese  competi- 
tion is  felt  by  every  European  who  does  business 
in  the  Far  East.  Indifferent  reputation  for  com- 
mercial honesty  may  hamper  some  of  his  trans- 
actions, but  the  Japanese  succeeds  because  he 
attends  industriously  to  business,  and  for  the  com- 
mon oriental  reason  that  he  can  live  well  upon 
profits  on  which  a white  man  would  starve. 

I have  found  Japanese  in  the  heart  of  China 
employed  by  the  Chinese  as  experts  in  making 
cartridges  and  rifles.  I have  seen  Japanese  at 
their  duties  as  professors  in  the  Peking  University 
and  as  teachers  in  military  academies  which  the 
Chinese  Government  is  setting  up.  I have  talked 
with  Japanese  who  are  mining  engineers,  dock 
superintendents,  and  mill  managers.  I have  visited 
factories  and  places  of  education  in  Japan  and  have 
discussed  the  industrial  and  intellectual  capacity 
of  the  race,  with  Europeans  engaged  in  commerce, 
politics,  and  religion,  in  many  parts  of  the  Far  East. 
The  estimates  given  me  are  various.  Japanese 
professors  in  Chinese  military  academies  have  been 
described  to  me  by  expert  authority  as  mere 
schoolboys  in  knowledge.  On  the  other  hand,  I 
have  become  familiar  with  the  view  obtaining  in 
one  section  of  the  British  commercial  community 
in  China,  which  sees  something  almost  superhuman 
in  the  efficiency  of  Japanese  arrangements,  and 
exalts  Japanese  foresight  and  attention  to  detail 
into  gifts  of  organisation  and  initiative  superior  to 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


205 


those  possessed  by  any  European  people.  Nor  is 
there  any  lack  of  intermediate  opinions.  The 
Japanese  himself  is  never  tired  of  flattering  his 
European  visitors  by  assuring  them  that  his 
countrymen  have  learnt  everything  from  Europe, 
that  they  have  no  originality,  and  that  their 
civilisation,  industries,  and  military  organisation 
are  mere  slavish  copies  of  Western  models.  The 
tourist  soon  learns  that  self-abasement  of  this  kind 
is  mere  formal  compliment,  no  more  intended  to  be 
taken  seriously  than  are  such  terms  as  “miserable 
hovel”  and  “honourable  mansion”  which  polite 
people  in  the  Far  East  apply  to  identically  con- 
structed houses  which  differ  from  each  other  only 
in  being  inhabited,  in  the  one  case  by  the  speaker, 
in  the  other  by  the  person  addressed. 

Japanese-built  railways  took  me  from  one  end 
of  Korea  to  the  other,  and  from  the  west  to  the 
extreme  east  of  Manchuria.  The  smoking  factory- 
chimneys  of  cotton-spinning  Osaka  inked  the 
sky  of  a whole  day  of  travel.  I was  shown  by 
hard-headed  Japanese  managers  over  dockyards  at 
Kobe  where,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  half  a dozen 
nickel-steel  plated  gunboats  of  modern  pattern 
were  being  manufactured  for  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment. Alert,  thick-set  navvies  swarmed  over  the 
works,  at  one  time  building  a fifteen  hundred  ton 
steamer,  at  another  busy  in  the  midst  of  acres  of 
whirling  lathes  and  clanging  hydraulic  hammers, 
at  a third  sitting  about  in  laughing  groups  dis- 
cussing, with  chopsticks  and  tin  pots  of  tea,  the 


2o6 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


universal  midday  meal  of  cold  boiled  rice  and  dried 
fish  pickle. 

The  Japanese  copper  mines  near  Nikko  employ 
eight  thousand  horse-power  electric  plant,  and  turn 
out  twenty-five  tons  of  copper  daily,  besides  enough 
sulphuric  acid  to  make  that  industry-begetting  pro- 
duct cheap  and  plentiful  throughout  the  entire 
country.  Mines  in  Kiusiu,  Yesso,  and  Hondo 
yield  amongst  them  annually  ten  million  tons  of 
coal,  which  finds  its  way  along  the  coasts  of  the  Far 
East  to  Singapore.  This  coal  is  inferior  in  quality 
to  the  Cardiff  article,  but  superior  to  that  of  Bengal 
in  the  proportion  that  Bengal  coal  must  sell  at 
Hongkong  at  eight  Chinese  dollars  per  ton  in  order 
to  underbid  Japanese  coal,  in  the  same  port,  at 
ten  dollars.  The  Kure  naval  yards  are  building 
sixteen-thousand  ton  cruisers.  Extensive  electric 
installations  driven  by  water  power  are  in  operation 
in  almost  every  city  of  any  size  in  Japan. 

Even  villages  are  beginning  to  employ  electric 
plant.  Messrs.  Siemens  and  Company  are  com- 
pleting a Japanese  order  for  a sixteen  thousand 
horse-power  installation  for  electric  tram-driving 
and  manufacturing  purposes  in  Tokyo,  and  have 
been  applied  to  in  connection  with  the  setting  up 
of  a sixty  thousand  horse-power  installation,  to  be 
driven  by  water  from  the  Biwa  lake,  to  supersede 
coal  in  Osaka  cotton-mills.  Electric  tram  lines  are 
wandering  in  all  directions  along  country  roads 
where  they  serve  as  invaluable  feeders  to  the  main 
lines  of  railway.  Blast-furnaces  and  rolling  mills  at 


DOCKYARDS  IN  KOBE  AND  OSAKA,  WHERE  . . . GUNBOATS  WERE  BEING 
MANUFACTURED  FOR  THE  CHINESE  GOVERNMENT 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


207 


Yawata  Mahi  are  turning  out  enormous  quantities 
of  useful  steel,  including  inch-thick  nickel  plates  for 
warship  construction. 

Japan  supplies  practically  the  whole  of  the  Far 
East  demand  for  calcium  carbide,  which  is  manu- 
factured at  electrically  driven  works  at  Kurjana  and 
elsewhere.  Cement  works  at  Onoda,  Moji,  and 
Tokyo  fill  the  needs  of  the  country  for  this  im- 
portant article.  There  is  a gold-mine  at  Kagosuma, 
Kiusiu,  where  one  thousand  horse-power  electric 
plant  is  used.  Splendidly  equipped,  electrically 
driven  factories  at  Osaka  and  Tokyo  turn  out 
rifles  and  heavy  guns  for  the  entire  Japanese  army. 
Modern,  bogie-pattern  railway  rolling-stock  is  manu- 
factured at  Nagoya  and  Tokyo.  Railway  locomo- 
tives have  been  constructed  in  Japan,  though  reasons 
of  economy  dictate  the  importation  from  Europe  and 
America  of  most  of  this  class  of  machinery. 

Ocean-going  steamers,  owned  and  manned  by 
Japanese,  maintain  regular  passenger  services 
across  the  Pacific  and  trade  along  the  Chinese 
coast  and  to  India  and  Europe.  Joint-stock  con- 
cerns in  Osaka  boast  paid-up  Japanese  capital 
amounting  to  over  six  million  sterling. 

Traversing  Southern  Japan  by  rail,  from  Moji  to 
Yokohama,  one  looks  out  upon  a continual  series  of 
flat  irrigated  fields,  cultivated  like  gardens,  and 
shadowed  by  rocky  hills,  which  are  themselves 
covered  with  carefully  tended  forest.  The  upper 
slopes  are  black  with  the  foliage  of  stunted  pines, 
only  an  occasional  yellow  scar  telling  of  ever- 


208 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


narrowing  stretches  where  wastes  of  sand  and 
stones  protest  against  the  industry  of  the  Japanese 
forester.  What  was  once  desert  is  being  surely 
conquered.  Already  all  but  a fraction  of  the  total 
area  has  been  turned  to  account.  The  crooked 
pines  give  way,  as  one  journeys  eastwards,  to  the 
softer  green  of  carefully  planted  deciduous  trees, 
and  these  shade  into  the  straw-yellows  of  bamboo 
forest  which  covers  the  outskirts  of  the  minutely 
cultivated  plain.  Every  yard  of  level  ground  is 
irrigated.  Out  of  shallow  water  emerge  closely  set 
earth-ridges  upon  which  grow  a rich  yellow  harvest 
of  mustard  plants  with  pods  parturient  for  the  oil- 
press.  White  masses  of  heavily  laden  barley  and 
wheat,  with  brown,  thick-set  ears,  are  being  reaped. 
Between  the  ridges  deep  green  bean  foliage  pro- 
mises a second  crop.  At  intervals  are  spread 
verdant  carpets  of  recently  sown  rice  which  will 
supply  hand-planted  materials  for  yet  later  yield. 

Narrow  macadamised  roads  meander  amidst  the 
cultivation.  Piously  guarded  tombstones,  mossy 
and  grey,  and  the  brighter  tints  of  thriving  villages 
flit  by  at  intervals.  Bandbox  houses,  with  brown 
thatched  roofs  and  grey-tiled  verandahs,  dodge  the 
railway  track  upon  both  sides  of  the  way.  Beside 
the  doorways  are  poised  delicate  sprays  of  big  pink 
roses,  each  blossom  so  skilfully  isolated  against  a 
background  of  carefully  arranged  foliage  that  its 
beauty  invites  individual  attention.  Plump  cattle 
wade,  belly  deep,  in  the  luscious  tilth.  The  retain- 
ing walls  of  the  railway  embankments  are  mosaic 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


209 


puzzles  of  irregular  grey  stones,  so  exactly  fitted 
into  each  other  that  there  is  no  room  for  mortar,  the 
granite  blocks  clinging  firmly  together  by  dint  of 
sheer  accuracy  of  shaping. 

The  whole  of  the  wonderful  richness  of  the  region 
is  induced  artificially.  Naturally  the  soil  is  poor. 
The  fields  would  be  sand-deserts  for  hundreds  of 
miles  but  for  irrigation  channels  which  utilise  every 
drop  of  water  available  from  the  mountain  streams. 
These  irrigation  channels  are  upon  a very  large 
scale.  One  of  them  near  Kyoto  collects  the  drain- 
age of  a whole  countryside  and  carries  it,  by  a 
tunnel  some  miles  long,  right  through  the  rocky 
range  which  forms  the  watershed,  to  irrigate 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  acres  on  the  other  side, 
which  would  otherwise  be  barren.  I am  informed 
that  this  channel  was  both  designed  and  constructed 
by  Japanese  engineers.  It  is  an  example  of 
indigenous  ingenuity  and  industry  of  very  high 
order.  I saw  long  embankments  in  course  of 
erection  along  the  northern  shores  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  where  immense  areas  of  what  has  hitherto 
been  useless  beach  and  waste  sea-bottom  are  being 
surely  reclaimed.  The  soil  where  the  embankments 
are  new  is  mere  yellow  sand,  but  every  stage  of 
development  can  be  seen  ; for  irrigation  and 
fertilisers  are  being  so  applied  that  the  entire 
process  of  the  creation  of  fields  of  rich  cultivation 
is  visible.  An  unmistakable  odour  tells  of  town 
sewage  that  is  utilised  in  quantity  to  assist ; for 
nothing  is  wasted. 


210 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


The  process  of  converting  thousands  of  square 
miles  of  bare  ridges  of  rock  and  sand  into  profitable 
forest  can  also  be  seen  in  operation.  Few  sights 
are  more  striking  than  the  bamboo  copses  between 
Kobe  and  Kyoto,  which  are  so  thick  that  the  big 
feathery  fronds  have  had  to  be  tied  back  with  fence- 
wire,  bound  like  a girl’s  tresses,  to  prevent  their 
straying  unduly.  More  than  half  of  the  total  area 
of  Japan  is  forest;  and  sixty-five  per  cent,  of  the 
forests  belong  to  the  State.  The  forest-land  is 
generally  so  situated  as  to  be  out  of  reach  of  irriga- 
tion, and  too  poor  to  be  cultivated  dry.  It  affords, 
in  the  hands  of  the  Government,  however,  an 
important  source  of  national  wealth  which  is 
increasing  steadily,  and  is  a good  example  of  that 
self-denying  foresight  which  is  so  characteristic 
of  Japan.  I had  not  time  to  proceed  into  the 
north  of  the  central  island,  so  was  unable  to  gather 
any  personal  impression  of  the  drought  and  con- 
sequent famine  in  progress  there,  nor  of  the 
measures  taken  by  the  authorities  to  relieve  dis- 
tress ; but  in  the  south,  where  small  holdings  are 
the  rule,  the  prosperity  of  the  peasants  is  evident. 
The  land-tax,  I understand,  averages  only  about 
fifteen  per  cent,  of  annual  value,  and  is  paid  easily. 
A poor  soil  has  been  made  capable  of  supporting  a 
teeming  population,  and  wealth  is  growing  fast. 

The  hand  of  the  Japanese  administration  is 
visible  everywhere,  helping  development  to  pro- 
ceed. The  railways  are  in  course  of  nationalisation  ; 
and  the  rates  for  freight  and  passenger  fares  are 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


211 


kept  low  to  encourage  traffic.  When  big  iron- 
works failed  under  private  management  the 
Japanese  Government  refused  to  allow  them  to 
be  closed,  but  took  them  over  itself  and  spent 
millions  of  yen  in  making  them  a partial  success. 

Up  to  a comparatively  recent  period  the  man- 
hood of  South  Japan  was  cooped  up  upon  the 
land.  The  holding  of  each  individual  family  was 
split  into  patches,  generally  separated  by  other 
folk’s  fields  and  too  small  to  admit  of  anything  but 
spade  cultivation.  This  has  now  changed.  A law 
requiring  every  village  community  to  readjust 
the  distribution  of  the  land  so  as  to  give  to  each 
family  a compact  plot,  equivalent  in  value  and  area 
to  the  total  of  the  separate  patches  it  possessed 
previously,  has  been  adopted  with  the  cheerful 
obedience  which  is  so  characteristic  of  this  remark- 
able people.  Plough  cultivation  has  become  prac- 
ticable in  consequence,  and  labour  has  been  set  free 
in  very  large  quantity.  The  construction  by  the 
local  authorities  of  roads,  to  replace  the  footpaths 
previously  in  use,  has  operated  in  a similar 
direction,  since  it  has  rendered  practicable  the 
introduction  of  draught  animals  to  take  the  place 
of  the  weary  carrying  of  agricultural  produce  upon 
the  backs  of  the  peasants.  This  explains  the  ease 
with  which  Japan  has  spared  millions  of  its  man- 
hood, first  to  fight  Russia  in  Manchuria,  and 
afterwards  to  pour,  as  traders  and  coolies,  into  the 
newly-acquired  territory  of  Korea,  without  trenching 
seriously  upon  the  supply  available  to  meet  the 


212 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


heavy  demand  for  factory  labour  in  Japan  itselt. 
Simultaneously  with  the  creation  of  fresh  sources 
of  industrial  wealth  has  come  such  notable  economy 
in  labour  as  to  avoid  any  serious  blow  to  the  older 
and  less  profitable  forms  of  enterprise. 

It  is  important  to  remember  this  in  estimating 
the  extent  to  which  further  industrial  development 
is  practicable,  since  there  is  room  for  yet  additional 
economy  in  labour.  Jinrickshaw-men,  for  example, 
still  teem  in  every  Japanese  city,  doing  work  which 
in  almost  all  other  countries  is  performed  by  draught 
animals  or  machinery.  In  Japan,  cheap  electric 
power  promises  to  become  before  long  so  abundant 
and  widely  distributed  as  to  set  free  a very  large 
number  of  jinrickshaw-men.  Already  electric  trams 
have  done  much  in  this  direction.  Great  as  have 
been  the  developments  in  Japan  in  the  forty  years 
which  have  elapsed  since  feudalism  went  out  and 
European  methods  came  in,  there  is  yet  prospect 
of  further  advance.  A continuously  increasing 
birth-rate  contributes  to  the  total  manhood  avail- 
able, and  that  manhood  profits  by  better  training 
than  the  race  has  ever  had  before. 

Meanwhile  some  other  points  must  be  considered. 
The  annual  value  of  the  foreign  trade  of  Japan  has 
risen  in  the  past  decade  from  twenty-three  million 
sterling  to  sixty-four  million,  and  growth  is  still 
proceeding ; but  the  imports  considerably  exceed 
the  exports.  The  large  amounts  of  rice,  bean-cake, 
flour,  sugar,  and  raw  cotton  brought  in,  show  that 
the  people  have  become  dependent  upon  the 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


213 


foreigner  for  a serious  fraction  of  their  food,  and 
that  the  greater  portion  of  the  principal  raw  pro- 
duct required  for  their  mills  is  grown  abroad. 
The  imports  of  machinery,  rails,  and  other  iron 
goods  are  also  significant.  The  exports  principally 
comprise  such  Japanese  manufactured  articles  as 
cotton  yarn  and  silk  piece-goods,  of  which  eight 
million  sterling’s  worth  are  shipped  annually.  Tea, 
matches,  matting,  umbrellas,  cigarettes,  camphor, 
and  porcelain  are  also  important  items,  and  raw 
products,  like  copper  ore  and  coal,  figure  to  the 
annual  value  of  three  million  sterling.  It  follows 
that  Japan  is  using  machinery,  but  not  yet  making 
it  herself  to  any  very  large  extent ; also  that  she 
still  sends  part  of  her  raw  products  to  be  worked 
up  by  the  foreigner. 

The  custom  duties  are  heavy,  but  they  serve 
what  every  Japanese  considers  a useful  purpose  in 
encouraging  home  industries  as  opposed  to  foreign. 
They  bring  in  at  present  from  three  to  four  million 
sterling  annually,  and  are  being  raised  to  produce 
about  five  million.  The  new  rates  average  some- 
thing like  fifty  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on  the  goods, 
and  are  higher  upon  commodities  needed  by  the 
European  in  Japan  than  on  those  which  the 
Japanese  themselves  require.  The  principal  sources 
of  Japanese  revenue,  other  than  customs,  are  the 
land  tax,  the  sak6  tax,  and  the  salt,  tobacco,  and 
camphor  monopolies.  The  national  debt  is  by  no 
means  overwhelming,  in  spite  of  the  great  expense 
of  the  war  with  Russia.  It  amounts,  at  present,  to 


214 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


‘ less  than  two  hundred  million  sterling,  of  which, 
roughly,  a hundred  million  has  been  borrowed 
outside  the  country.  The  annual  national  income 
before  the  war  was  less  than  thirty  million  sterling. 
It  has  been  increased  since,  by  special  taxation,  to 
forty  million,  and  will  soon  touch  fifty  million.  The 
national  debt  is  not  entirely  unproductive,  for  it 
includes  the  capital  cost  of  a number  of  public 
works  bringing  in  nearly  four  million  sterling 
annually.  With  such  relation  between  debt  and 
income  the  financial  position  is  not  disheartening, 
though  ten  years  of  peace  and  careful  economy 
are  essential  to  enable  expenditure  upon  the 
administration  to  keep  pace  with  the  material 
development  of  the  country. 

The  present  standard  of  efficiency  in  the  public 
services  cannot  be  maintained  without  increased 
outlay.  The  pay  of  the  officials  is  so  low  at  present 
as  to  threaten  the  stability  of  the  entire  organisation 
of  the  Government.  Already  the  bench  is  fallen 
into  such  disfavour  that  many  of  the  judges 
look  upon  it  as  a mere  stepping  - stone  to 
the  more  adequately  remunerated  bar.  High 
servants  of  the  State  are  unable  to  mix  upon 
equal  terms  with  Europeans  and  other  well-to-do 
strangers,  and  often  hold  themselves  aloof  in 
consequence,  for  fear  of  being  put  to  shame  by 
the  poorness  of  the  circumstances  in  which  they 
are  compelled  to  live.  In  any  other  nation  grave 
deterioration  would  have  resulted  already  ; and  in 
Japan  it  threatens  seriously.  In  every  branch  of 


THE  JAPANESE  COEFFICIENT 


215 


Japanese  development  marvellous  progress  has 
been  made ; but  everywhere  there  is  a sharply 
defined  need  of  money.  The  country  has  entered 
upon  vast  schemes  of  national  improvement ; 
scarcity  of  resources  alone  hampers  their  growth. 
The  skill  that  has  been  shown  in  internal  organisa- 
tion promises  well  for  Japanese  ability  to  deal  with 
allied  problems  in  Korea  and  China.  Basic  limita- 
tions, however,  exist,  and  cannot  fail  to  affect  the 


issue. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


CONTRADICTIONS  IN  THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 

HE  Japanese  soldier,  from  the  most  senior 


general  down  to  the  last-joined  private,  is 
high-spirited,  hospitable,  and  chivalrous,  ready  to 
sacrifice  himself  for  his  beloved  country,  obedient 
to  authority,  brave,  resourceful,  and  democratic. 
The  familiarity  which  I have  noted  as  existing 
between  the  officer  and  the  private  is  remark- 
able to  those  who  are  accustomed  to  the  greater 
distance  maintained  between  members  of  the 
corresponding  ranks  in  European  armies ; but 
it  does  not  interfere  with  discipline.  The  pride 
which  animates  every  branch  of  the  service  is 
splendid.  I have  seen  a thirsty  Japanese  soldier, 
after  a hot  day’s  tramp  in  the  sun  over  a 
Manchurian  battlefield,  refuse  a drink  because, 
as  he  explained  to  the  interpreter,  he  w^as  on 
duty.  I remember  another,  who  had  been  given 
a smoke  by  a visitor  for  whom  he  had  performed 
some  trifling  service,  decline  to  consume  it  until 
satisfied  that  one  of  his  own  cigarettes  was  to  be 
accepted  in  return.  To  tip  a Japanese  soldier- 


2i8 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


servant  would  be  an  insult  against  which  I re- 
ceived friendly  warning  at  an  early  stage  in  my 
wanderings. 

The  European  finds  intercourse  with  Japanese 
gentlemen  more  difficult  than  he  is  sometimes 
prepared  to  admit.  This  is  because  the  Japanese, 
while  hanging  together  themselves  in  the  closest 
possible  manner,  regard  the  members  of  every  other 
nationality  with  distrust.  It  is  distrust  for  which 
the  past  may  afford  ample  justification  ; but  this 
does  not  prevent  its  inconvenience  as  a present 
condition.  The  Japanese  tries  hard  to  make  an 
exception  in  favour  of  the  Englishman.  He  reminds 
himself  that  he  is  dealing  with  an  ally.  He  loads 
the  English  visitor  with  hospitality.  He  tolerates, 
with  continual  patience  and  admirable  temper,  what 
he  considers  the  shockingly  bad  manners  of  the 
Occidental.  He  is  for  ever  endeavouring  to  see 
this  friendly  barbarian  from  a favourable  point  of 
view,  and  to  ignore  his  drawbacks.  The  English- 
man tries  in  return  not  to  be  irritated  by  the 
Orientals  attitude  of  secretiveness,  self-conscious- 
ness, and  suspicion,  which  flowery  language,  en- 
gaging manners,  and  exaggerated  humility  do  but 
emphasise  ; and  he  recognises  to  the  full  his  good- 
fellowship,  kindliness,  and  painstaking  conscientious- 
ness. But  neither  feels  wholly  at  ease  in  the 
presence  of  the  other.  The  differences  of  race, 
tradition,  and  custom  are  so  great  as  to  constitute 
almost  a physical  diversity  of  species,  and  a physical 
discomfort  in  the  best-intentioned  attempt  at  inter- 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


219 


course.  Both  are  conscious  of  a barrier,  swept 
away  sometimes  by  community  of  interest  and 
alliance,  but  inevitably  restored,  with  results  that 
affect  the  entire  political  situation  in  the  Far  East. 

Japanese  methods  do  not  always  commend  them- 
selves to  Europeans.  One  hears  of  officers  who 
condescended  to  disguise  themselves  as  coolies  and 
pull  the  jinrickshaws  of  visitors  belonging  to  a 
country  with  which  Japan  was  at  peace,  in  order 
to  overhear  talk  that  might  possibly  prove  useful 
politically.  Japanese  combatants  have  taken  service 
in  different  parts  of  the  world  as  photographers, 
and  even  as  porters  and  domestics,  in  order  to 
surprise  the  naval  and  military  secrets  of  their 
employers.  The  soldier  is  thorough  in  everything, 
not  excluding  the  obtaining  of  information  by  what- 
ever means  he  can.  The  world  has  abundantly 
recognised  Japanese  self-denial,  Japanese  courage, 
and  Japanese  honour.  It  has  yet  to  recognise 
the  military  side  of  Japanese  taste. 

I have  referred  to  the  fact  that  the  whole  of  the 
public  services  in  Japan  are  underpaid.  The  Lord 
Chancellor,  who  presides  over  the  highest  court  of 
appeal,  gets  a salary  of  ;^500  a year.  A general 
officer  in  the  field  receives  ;^35  monthly,  a subaltern 
two  shillings  a day,  and  a private  three-halfpence 
in  addition  to  his  keep.  The  poverty  of  the  whole 
of  the  members  of  the  civil  services  is  pathetic,  yet 
I have  never  heard  a whisper  of  justice  being  sold, 
or  of  corruption,  for  selfish  purposes,  upon  any  really 
extensive  scale  amongst  the  officials.  The  traders. 


220 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


artisans,  and  labourers  have  notoriously  a less 
favourable  record.  They  are  industrious  and  in- 
genious, but  have  won  the  very  reverse  of  that 
reputation  for  honesty  and  fair-dealing  which  the 
Chinese  have  long  possessed. 

The  foreign  traveller  of  independent  means  sees 
little  of  the  national  failing ; not  so  the  foreign 
business  man  with  a stake  in  the  country.  Japan 
is  a tourists  paradise  because  the  tourist  is  a 
source  of  profit  to  its  people ; but  it  is  no 
place  for  the  European  who  has  to  make  his 
living.  I refer  not  so  much  to  European  experts 
in  Japanese  employ,  who  are  rapidly  disappearing, 
but  to  the  European  merchants  who  do  business 
upon  their  own  account.  These  men  see  the 
Japanese  at  his  worst.  I have  heard  a level- 
headed Englishman  amongst  them  compare  the 
position  which  he  and  his  fellows  occupy  to  that 
of  the  outlander  in  Johannesburg  before  the  Trans- 
vaal war.  Ostensibly,  they  are  protected  by  treaty 
and  given  absolute  equality  of  opportunity  with 
their  Japanese  competitors.  Practically,  they  are 
hampered  upon  all  sides.  They  find  the  Japanese 
official  in  league  with  the  Japanese  merchant  to 
undersell  them.  Regulations  are  rigidly  enforced 
where  they  operate  to  the  foreigner  s disadvantage, 
but  are  read  in  an  altogether  different  spirit  where 
Japanese  merchants  are  concerned.  For  one 
European  merchant  who  has  been  able  to  say  that 
he  considers,  upon  the  whole,  that  the  particular 
operations  he  is  concerned  with  are  given  a fair 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


221 


field,  two  have  assured  me  that  they  find  the  con- 
trary to  be  the  case. 

I do  not  quote  the  bitter  things  that  are  said 
by  Belgians,  Germans,  and  other  Continentals  who 
are  struggling  on  in  business  in  Japan  under 
adverse  circumstances,  because  these  persons,  as 
a class,  are  so  hostile  to  the  Japanese  that  it 
is  only  natural  that  they  should  meet  with  hostility 
in  return.  I refer  rather  to  Englishmen  and 
Americans,  who  are  in  sympathy  upon  other 
points  with  the  Japanese,  and  are  unlikely  there- 
fore to  exaggerate  the  differences  which  exist. 
It  is  perhaps  natural  that  specific  examples  of 
obstruction  should  be  hard  to  find.  The  cases 
quoted  to  me  refer,  for  the  most  part,  to  what 
appear  to  the  non-expert  somewhat  petty  matters 
connected  with  facilities  and  rebates  of  freight  upon 
Government-owned  or  officially  subsidised  railways, 
steamers  and  other  services,  also  with  the  levying  of 
local  taxation  and  the  framing  and  working  of  the 
Japanese  customs  tariff.  Individually,  they  may 
be  susceptible  of  easy  explanation ; but  collectively 
they  indicate  the  existence  in  Japan  of  a state  of 
feeling  which  has  grown,  when  transplanted  to 
Korea,  into  active  friction  between  the  foreign 
trader  and  the  paramount  authorities. 

The  Japanese  think  the  white  man  amongst  them 
disproportionately  well-to-do.  They  combine,  in 
consequence,  to  relieve  him  of  some  of  his  super- 
fluous prosperity.  At  a Japanese  show  in  Tokyo  I 
was  asked,  as  entrance  fee,  precisely  double  the 


222 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


sum  which  Japanese,  in  European  attire,  were 
paying  for  similar  accommodation  at  the  same 
time.  A polite  explanation  was  vouchsafed  that 
the  sum  was  double  in  my  case  because  I was  big 
and  would  take  up  space.  The  European  mer- 
chant doing  business  in  Japan  may  console  himself 
for  the  moment  with  a somewhat  similar  reflection. 
He,  too,  no  doubt  is  big,  and  takes  up  space  ; but 
he  will  not  be  able  to  do  so  for  long,  since  one  class 
of  business  after  another  is  being  taken  out  of  his 
hands.  This  is  the  more  galling  since  the  sufferers 
believe  that  if  the  field  were  open  they  could  more 
than  hold  their  own. 

The  Chinese  merchant  is  content  to  work  with 
and  through  the  foreigner.  The  Japanese  will  do 
nothing  of  the  kind,  but  is  determined  to  get 
business  sooner  or  later  into  his  own  hands.  The 
ambition  of  Japan  is  to  drive  all  manufactures  but 
her  own  out  of  Japanese  markets,  and  out  of  those 
of  China,  Manchuria,  and  Korea,  to  absorb  the 
carrying  trade,  and  to  employ  none  but  Japanese 
in  the  handling  and  distributing  of  the  goods. 
Looked  at  by  itself,  this  ambition  is  honourable 
and  legitimate.  The  foreigner  who  is  being  dis- 
placed, however,  has  cause  for  indignation,  since 
not  only  does  he  find  the  State  leagued  with  private 
enterprise  against  him,  but  Japanese  Government 
contracts  interpreted  with  a looseness  which  gives 
him  cause  for  continual  anxiety. 

The  scheme  for  the  nationalisation  oi  the 
principal  railways  in  Japan  may  be  quoted  as  a 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


223 


typical  example  of  Japanese  methods.  No  one  who 
has  lived  in  India,  where  the  nationalisation  of 
the  railways  has  proved  an  unmixed  boon  to  the 
taxpayer,  can  doubt  the  wisdom  of  the  general 
intention  underlying  the  measures  taken  by  the 
Japanese  Government  towards  a similar  end.  The 
same  cannot  be  said  of  the  method  employed. 
The  dangerous  principle  has  been  accepted  that 
what  government  can  give,  government  can  take 
away.  Concessions,  with  many  years  still  to  run, 
are  being  suddenly  abrogated.  A sense  of  in- 
security has  been  created  which  cannot  fail  to 
react  unfavourably  upon  the  credit  of  the  country. 
It  is  true  that  the  existing  companies  are  to  be 
bought  out  upon  liberal  terms.  The  shareholders  are 
to  receive  five  per  cent,  bonds  to  an  amount  which 
approximates  to  twenty  per  cent,  above  the  market 
value  of  their  property  at  the  time  of  the  transac- 
tion. They  may  profit  in  the  end  by  this 
arrangement,  though  this  was  by  no  means  certain 
at  the  beginning ; but  they  have  a legitimate 
grievance  in  being  arbitrarily  deprived  of  securities 
in  which  they  felt  confidence,  by  exchange  for  others 
of  a different  nature.  Financiers  at  Tokyo  ask 
themselves  what  guarantee  exists  that  other 
national  liabilities  will  not  be  juggled  with 
similarly. 

I have  referred  to  what  the  European  in  the 
Far  East  considers  to  be  questionable  methods 
upon  the  part  of  Japanese  military  and  naval 
officers  in  the  matter  of  obtaining  intelligence.  It 


224 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


is  fair  to  add  that  these  methods  cannot  be  de- 
scribed as  at  all  directly  countenanced  by  the 
Japanese  Government.  The  breach  of  neutrality 
committed  by  a Japanese  naval  commander  in 
Korean  waters  at  Chemulpo,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  war  with  Russia,  which  resulted  in  the  destruc- 
tion of  two  of  the  Russian  war-vessels,  received  no 
open  official  recognition.  Neither  did  the  unsuccess- 
ful attempt,  made  shortly  afterwards  by  Japanese 
officers  in  disguise,  to  blow  up  one  of  the  big 
bridges  in  Central  Asia  in  the  rear  of  the  Russians, 
whether  justifiable  or  otherwise  under  the  special 
circumstances  of  the  case.  On  the  contrary,  the 
authorities  held  responsible  for  each  occurrence 
were  formally  reprimanded.  The  story  of  a breach- 
of-neutrality  incident  in  the  Spanish-American  war, 
where  an  over-zealous  United  States  officer  is  said 
to  have  been  solemnly  court-martialled,  condemned, 
and  promoted,  may  be  recalled  in  this  connection  ; 
but  I am  assured  there  was  no  corresponding 
humour  in  the  Japanese  proceedings.  Japanese 
recruits,  sent  to  the  front  during  the  war,  were 
carefully  instructed  before  starting  in  what  was 
supposed  to  be  the  European  code  of  honour.  I 
am  told  that  both  the  railway  in  the  Russian  rear, 
and  also  the  Neuchwang-Sinmintung  line,  which 
long  continued  to  carry  from  China  supplies  for 
General  Kuropatkin  s forces,  might  have  been  cut 
had  the  Japanese  resorted  to  really  extensive 
alliance  with  brigand  Hunchuses.  The  small  scale 
upon  which  such  alliance  took  place  must  be  attri- 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


225 


buted  quite  as  much  to  Japanese  chivalry  as  to 
self-interested  resolve  to  command  the  respect  of 
the  civilised  world. 

It  is  possible  to  say  that  the  Japanese  fighting 
man  of  to-day  is  the  lineal  descendant  of  the  gallant 
Samurai  whose  devotion  to  his  feudal  chief  has 
inspired  a national  poetry  and  created  a national 
cult,  while  the  commercial  Japanese  belongs  to 
another  class  of  life  and  has  been  despised  by  his 
own  fellow-countrymen  until  he  has  sunk  accord- 
ingly. This,  however,  is  but  a rough  discrimina- 
tion, and  will  not  cover  the  acts  of  the  people  as  a 
whole.  To  attribute  to  the  spirit  of  the  Samurai 
the  self-denying  promises  of  the  Japanese  Govern- 
ment to  treat  foreigners  upon  an  industrial  and 
commercial  equality  with  Japanese  in  Manchuria 
and  Korea,  and  to  blame  the  commercialism  of 
Japanese  public  opinion  with  the  failure  which 
has  occurred  to  keep  the  spirit  of  these  promises, 
is  neither  logical  nor  sufficient.  It  is  better  to 
say  that  commercial  dealing,  even  by  the  Govern- 
ment, is  not  yet  quite  recognised  as  an  expression 
of  national  honour.  We  must  take  the  Japanese 
nation  as  a whole,  and  remind  ourselves  that  dis- 
tinguished qualities  do  not  create  perfect  people. 
Polished  manners,  kindliness,  courage,  intense 
national  as  well  as  personal  pride  and  sensitiveness 
to  public  opinion,  are  widely  characteristic.  The 
Japanese  have  been  tactless  and  sometimes  brutal 
masters  of  subject  races  in  Formosa  and  Korea,  only 
because  they  lack  facility  in  recognising  points  of 

Q 


226 


THE  JAPANESE  CHARACTER 


view  other  than  their  own.  They  have  drunk  the 
strong  wine  of  victory  over  a European  power  with- 
out the  intoxication  that  most  other  peoples  would 
have  shown.  Their  brave  moderation  in  action, 
their  generosity  in  victory,  their  dignity  in  reverse, 
their  subordination  of  all  lesser  considerations  to  a 
common  aim,  and  their  proud  refusal  to  boast  or 
exaggerate,  may  well  be  held  to  outbalance  the 
spirit  of  dishonest  commercialism  which  is  also 
abroad  in  their  land. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

LIMITATIONS  TO  JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 

Ten  years  ago  English  engineers  were  in 
charge  of  almost  every  cotton-mill  in  Osaka; 
Belgians  controlled  the  steel-works  of  Kiusiu ; 
Germans  and  Americans  were  entrusted  with  the 
technical  direction  of  the  electric  tram  lines  and 
lighting  installations  which  have  been  set  up  in 
most  of  the  bigger  towns  and  even  in  some 
villages.  British  sea-captains  commanded  Japanese 
merchant  ships.  English  was  heard  upon  the 
quarter-deck  and  in  the  engine-room  of  every 
Japanese  war- vessel.  German  military  instructors 
were  to  be  found  in  camp  and  barrack-square. 
Graduates  of  Oxford  and  London  delivered  the 
principal  lectures  in  the  Tokyo  University. 
Japanese  railways,  dockyards,  and  irrigation  works 
all  leaned  heavily  on  Europe.  This  is  now  wholly 
— I hesitate  to  say  irrevocably — changed. 

The  well-found  steamer  which  conveyed  me  from 
Fusan  to  Moji,  over  the  scene  of  Admiral  Togo’s 
final  victory,  was  built,  commanded,  and  manned 
by  Japanese  exclusively.  The  national  naval 

227 


228 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


base  upon  that  emerald  and  sapphire  training- 
ground  for  Japanese  bluejackets,  the  Inland  Sea, 
employs  no  British  officers  beyond  one  highly  paid 
naval  constructor  and  a few  draughtsmen  and  other 
assistants.  Sixteen-thousand  ton  men-of-war  are 
built  at  Kure,  of  materials  partly  of  European 
origin,  with  but  very  little  assistance  from 
Westerners  upon  the  spot.  Japanese,  not  Germans, 
drill  the  troops  at  Hiroshima.  The  coal-mines, 
blast-furnaces,  and  steel- works  are  under  Japanese 
engineers  and  Japanese  masters.  I did  not  see 
a single  European  in  the  dockyards  of  Kobe  or 
Osaka.  Hardly  any  of  the  Japanese  cotton-mills 
now  employ  Europeans.  At  the  Tokyo  University 
I was  shown  round  by  a highly  cultivated  Japanese 
professor,  who  could  introduce  me  to  none  but 
Japanese  colleagues.  The  comfortable  electric 
tram-lines,  which  carried  me  to  see  the  lacquer 
and  gilt  temples  in  Kyoto  and  Tokyo,  were  run 
by  indigenous  experts. 

The  European  in  Japanese  employ  has  practically 
disappeared.  Where  he  still  exists  he  is  a mere 
survival  of  a state  of  things  which  has  gone.  He 
resents  his  supersession,  but  has  no  just  cause  of 
grievance,  for  he  was  treated  liberally  as  long  as 
his  contract  lasted.  Little  visible  change  has 
followed  his  dismissal.  The  works  go  on  very 
much  as  before  and  many  of  them  continue  to 
do  well  financially ; but  this  does  not  prove  that 
the  European  is  not  missed  or  that  some  loss  of 
efficiency  has  not  followed  his  elimination.  There 


TO  SEE  THE  LACQUER  AND  GILT  TEMPLES 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


229 


is  a tale,  pretty  well  ear-marked  by  now,  but  very 
illustrative,  of  Japanese  engineers  failing  so  com- 
pletely to  learn  the  essentials  of  an  exotic  industry 
that  European  experts  had  to  be  recalled,  after  a 
costly  attempt  had  been  made  to  do  without  their 
services.  This  was  in  some  big  ironworks  where 
the  molten  metal  refused  to  flow  from  the  principal 
blast-furnaces,  soon  after  white  supervision  had  been 
bowed  out  of  the  gate.  The  furnaces  were  ruined 
by  the  coagulation  of  the  pig-iron  within  them,  and 
dynamite  had  to  be  employed  to  clear  away  the 
debris. 

It  is  not  always  safe  to  turn  to  Peking  for  a 
parallel  to  anything  Japanese,  but  the  fate  of  the 
European  methods  introduced  into  China  after  the 
Taiping  rebellion,  nearly  half  a century  ago,  is  not 
without  a moral  of  very  general  application  in  the 
Far  East.  Gordon  had  stamped  out  a rebellion 
which  had  threatened  to  overwhelm  the  Manchu 
dynasty.  He  had  employed  for  this  purpose 
Chinese  troops,  which  he  had  drilled  and  armed 
in  the  then  modern  fashion.  The  Peking  mandarins 
were  so  badly  frightened  that  they  decided  upon 
reform,  and  imported  a number  of  British  military 
and  naval  experts  to  improve  the  Chinese  State 
forces.  The  experiment  was  not  persisted  in  long 
enough  to  be  of  more  than  very  temporary  assist- 
ance to  the  army ; but  the  naval  officers  bought 
some  modern  ironclads  and  trained  their  Chinese 
crews  so  efficiently  that  the  navy  became  by  no 
means  despicable,  and  remained  so  for  a consider- 


230 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


able  time.  Had  the  China-] apanese  war  occurred 
in  1880,  instead  of  fourteen  years  later,  there 
would  have  been  much  more  doubt  of  the  issue. 
The  event  turned  out  as  it  did  because  the 
reactionary  party  in  China  was  able  to  reassert 
itself  when  the  Taiping  danger  had  passed  away. 
The  British  officers  were  replaced  by  Chinese, 
and  naval  efficiency  at  once  declined  so  steadily 
that  no  stand  could  be  made  against  the  Japanese 
in  1904. 

The  Japanese  have  persisted  far  more  doggedly 
than  did  the  Chinese  in  adopting  European  methods. 
Their  organisation  in  the  war  against  Russia  proved 
that  they  could  not  only  profit  by,  but  in  some  cases 
improve  upon  the  teaching  of  their  German  drill- 
instructors  and  British  naval  experts.  The  same 
holds,  but  to  a more  limited  extent,  in  regard  to 
their  industrial  methods.  Japanese  inventiveness 
and  attention  to  the  minutiae  of  organisation  have 
enabled  mills  and  factories  in  Japan  to  maintain  a 
considerable  degree  of  efficiency  long  after  the 
withdrawal  of  the  Europeans  who  initiated  the 
various  industries  ; but  deterioration  is  by  no  means 
unknown.  Competent  authorities  are  to  be  found 
in  Japan  who  hold  that  the  falling  off  from 
European  standards  is  far  more  serious  and  wide- 
spread than  is  generally  supposed,  though  partly 
compensated  by  Japanese  resourcefulness  and  in- 
dustry. The  supply  of  trained  Japanese  mechanics 
and  engineers  is  so  limited  that  machinery  is  often 
injured  by  unskilled  handling.  When  the  original 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


231 


managers  make  money  they  occasionally  lose  interest 
in  their  undertakings,  which  pass  to  irresponsible 
underlings.  The  plant,  which  is  often  of  the  best, 
is  not  kept  in  as  good  order  as  would  be  the  case  in 
European  workshops  and  factories.  Nor  are  defects 
in  one  concern  compensated,  as  in  Europe,  by 
increased  excellence  in  another. 

Ship-building  is  one  of  the  most  highly  developed 
industries  in  Japan.  In  the  principal  dockyards  of 
Osaka  and  Kobe  I saw  a number  of  steel  vessels 
under  construction,  including  half  a dozen  torpedo- 
boats  and  two  gunboats  intended  for  the  Chinese 
navy.  The  work  struck  me  as  of  very  fair  quality 
and  as  proceeding  at  good  speed,  though  the  day  s 
task  performed  by  the  individual  workman  was  con- 
siderably less  than  a European  would  have  got 
through.  Deficiency  in  the  unit  of  work,  however, 
was  fully  compensated  by  numerical  superiority  in 
the  workmen.  Nickel-steel  plates  of  excellent  quality 
were  in  use  ; but  I observed  that  both  these  plates 
and  also  much  of  the  shafting  and  other  working 
parts  of  the  engines  were  of  European  or  American 
manufacture.  The  drawing  of  the  plans,  the  bolting 
together  of  the  framework  and  plates,  the  installing 
of  the  engines,  and  the  manufacture  and  fitting  of 
the  woodwork  must  be  credited  to  the  Japanese. 
Those  portions  of  the  materials  which  are  difficult 
to  prepare,  also  the  more  complicated  factors  in  the 
mechanism,  which,  in  Europe,  would  be  made  at 
- home,  were  imported. 

Similarly,  in  the  case  of  the  electric  tram-lines 


232 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


at  Tokyo  and  Kyoto,  I found  that  the  wood- 
work of  the  cars  and  the  steel  rails  were 

Japanese,  but  the  working  parts,  as  a rule, 

were  of  foreign  origin.  The  Japanese  has  learnt 
to  use  the  white  man  s inventions  and  to  operate 
his  machinery,  but  has  stopped  short  of  inventing 
and  making  the  machinery  for  himself.  I am  aware 
that  this  allegation  is  disputed.  The  Japanese  claim 
to  be  large  inventors,  and  quote  their  rifle,  their 
high  explosives,  and  their  wireless  telegraph  as 
examples  of  their  achievements  in  this  field.  The 
more  closely,  however,  that  intelligent  foreigners  in 
Japan  have  been  associated  with  these  inventions, 
the  more  sceptical  one  finds  them  upon  the  subject 
of  the  originality  involved.  The  laws  of  Japan 
afford  little  protection  to  foreign  patents.  The 
Japanese  is  clever  in  borrowing  the  discoveries  of 
others  and  in  adding  unimportant  modifications 
which  give  an  appearance  of  novelty.  His  critics 
regard  the  secrecy  in  which  he  wraps  many  of  his 
manufacturing  processes  as  confirmative  of  the 
common  allegation  that  he  is  making  illegitimate 
use  of  other  men  s discoveries.  Evidence  of  clever 
imitation  and  adaptation  is  everywhere  available 
in  Japan,  but  examples  of  originality  in  practical 
matters  are  more  difficult  to  obtain. 

The  ordinary  Japanese  believes  with  some  reason 
that,  individually  or  collectively,  he  has  learnt  pretty 
well  all  that  the  average  imported  employee  can 
teach  him ; but  he  recognises  that  processes  and 
inventions  are  in  use  in  Europe  and  America  which 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


233 


are  still  worth  his  while  to  master.  He  travels 
assiduously  to  study  them,  and  is  remarkably  suc- 
cessful in  searching  out  what  is  of  value.  He  then 
returns  to  Japan  with  the  results,  and  organises  the 
cheap  labour  which  is  there  available  in  turning 
them  to  account.  The  copy  is  astonishingly  good, 
but  the  original  still  surpasses  it.  The  Japanese 
has  started,  with  the  light-hearted  self-confidence 
of  a clever  boy,  to  undertake  anything  and  every- 
thing the  European  can  accomplish  ; and  he  has  had 
such  a large  measure  of  success  that  a tendency  has 
arisen  to  magnify  his  achievements  unduly.  He 
has  passed  beyond  the  inferior  and  the  mediocre, 
but  must  pursue  the  road  of  progress  a very  great 
deal  further  before  he  can  overtake  the  white  man 
at  his  best. 

Japan  has  made  her  grand  national  effort,  and 
must  now  rest  to  refit  and  recuperate.  Education, 
high  and  low,  technical  and  physical,  as  well  as 
theoretical,  is  extending  gradually  amongst  her 
people  ; but  progress  is  slow.  Elementary  teaching 
reaches  a larger  proportion  of  the  children  of 
school-going  age  than  in  any  other  country  in  the 
world.  No  one  can  see  the  large  crowds  of  well- 
developed  men  and  boys  at  physical  drill  in  the 
free,  open-air  gymnasia  of  Tokyo,  without  compar- 
ing them,  to  their  advantage,  with  the  average 
manhood  of  Great  Britain.  The  laboratories  and 
workshops  of  the  Tokyo  University,  where  educa- 
tion is  free,  can  challenge  the  costly  corresponding 
institutions  at  Eton  and  Oxford  without  fear  of 


234 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


being  put  to  shame ; but  there  is  one  deficiency. 
The  number  of  Japanese  possessed  of  first-class 
training  is  still  very  small.  The  demand  for  trained 
men  in  every  branch  of  enterprise  has  outstripped 
the  supply  so  completely  that  individuals  with  only 
rudimentary  acquirements  have  to  be  accepted  and 
paid  for  as  if  they  were  the  genuine  article. 
Japanese  engineers  are  especially  scarce.  Railway 
companies  in  China  are  beginning  to  find  that  it  is 
cheaper  to  import  Europeans  than  to  employ  the 
Japanese  who  are  available  ; and  Chinese  officials 
constantly  complain  of  inefficiency  upon  the  part  of 
the  so-called  Japanese  experts  in  their  service. 

The  Japanese  no  doubt  needs  every  advantage 
he  has  in  China,  and  the  greatest  is  his  natural 
power  of  assimilation  with  the  Chinese.  His 
elaborate  manners  commend  themselves  to  Chinese 
notions  of  propriety,  whereas  the  abruptness  of 
European  behaviour  gives  sore  offence.  In  a 
set  of  papers  published  in  Shanghai  in  1901, 
Ku  Hung-Ming,  a Chinese  gentleman  with  Euro- 
pean education,  who  was  at  the  time  secretary- 
interpreter  to  Viceroy  Chang-Chih-Tung,  quotes 
with  approval  the  statement  of  Count  Cassini  that 
“ The  Chinese  are  a polite  people,  and  the  English 
and  Germans  are — well — as  a rule,  not  very  polite,” 
and  adds,  “ The  fact  is,  the  average  foreigner  in 
China  is  often  very  unreasonable  and  hasty ; and 
the  average  Chinaman  is  polite  and  reserved. 
When  you  make  an  unreasonable  request  to  a 
really  educated  Chinaman,  it  is  impossible  for  him 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


25s 


to  say  ‘No.’  His  innate  politeness  will  prompt  him 
to  use  polite  evasiveness  by  giving  you  a condi- 
tional ‘Yes.’  The  late  Marquis  Tseng  Kuo-Fan, 
in  a letter  to  a friend  in  i860,  says,  ‘When  you 
meet  with  foreigners  who  make  insolent  and  insult- 
ing remarks  to  your  face,  the  best  course  to  take 
is  to  smile  blandly  and  look  stupid,  as  if  you  did 
not  understand  them.’  . . . Thus  against  foreign 
unreasonableness  the  educated  Chinese  are  often 
prompted  to  use  polite  evasiveness,  and  against 
foreign  unreasonable  violence  the  Chinese  some- 
times use  a weapon  which  in  Chinese  is  called  'Chi 
mi'  translated  by  Dr.  Giles  as  ‘ to  halter.’  In  fact 
when  you  meet  a violent  mad  bull,  it  is  of  no  use  to 
reason  with  him  ; the  only  thing  you  can  do  is  to 
halter  him.” 

The  ordinary  European  often  comes  to  grief  in 
China  because  he  cannot  communicate  with  those 
around  him.  The  Japanese  suffers  from  no  such 
disability  since  he  has  only  to  write  to  be  under- 
stood, the  picture  signs  being  practically  identical 
in  the  two  languages.  Physically  the  races  have 
so  many  points  of  resemblance  that  Chinese 
students  in  Japan  who  cut  off  their  queues  and 
dress  in  kimonos  can  often  pass  undiscovered 
as  Japanese,  and  Japanese  in  China  can  make 
themselves  similarly  at  home.  The  Japanese 
looks  upon  China  as  his  natural  field  of  enter- 
prise, and  flocks  there  in  large  numbers.  As  an 
interpreter  of  Western  science  to  the  Chinese  he 
has  the  important  qualification,  which  the  Euro- 


236 


JAPANESE  EFFICIENCY 


pean  lacks,  of  having  personally  experienced  the  ( 
difficulties  which  present  themselves  to  the  i 
Oriental.  Nevertheless,  his  Chinese  pupils  are  , 
beginning  to  realise  that  it  is  more  advantageous  ; 
to  learn  first-hand  from  the  Europeans  than 
second-hand  from  the  Japanese.  The  Japanisation 
of  China  is  proceeding,  in  consequence,  very  much  i 
more  slowly  than  is  generally  supposed.  So  long 
as  Japanese  professors,  engineers,  soldiers,  and  i 
chemists  were  notably  cheaper  than  Europeans  and  • 
claimed  equivalent  qualifications,  there  was  a i 
definite  incentive  to  the  Chinese  to  turn  to  Japan 
for  their  requirements.  Now  that  this  is  no  longer 
the  case,  as  the  excess  of  demand  over  supply  has 
sent  up  the  price  of  the  Japanese  commodity,  a 
reaction  has  commenced. 

Japan  may  yet  arrive  at  the  port  where  many  of 
her  admirers  imagine  her  to  be  at  anchor  already. 
She  has  put  out  the  Western  pilot  and  weathered  a 
storm  since  his  departure ; but  some  eccentricities 
in  the  course  she  is  steering  are  already  apparent, 
and  a wide  ocean  has  still  to  be  crossed. 


CHAPTER  XX 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 

HE  High  Court  at  Tokyo  is  a typical  insti- 


tution of  the  Japanese  present.  It  comprises 
three  sets  of  tribunals,  a Local  Court  of  first 
instance,  an  Appeal  Court  to  which  reference 
can  be  made  in  almost  all  cases  on  both  law  and 
fact,  and  a Supreme  Court  which  gives  a second 
reference  on  points  of  law  only,  and  corresponds 
to  the  appellate  tribunal  of  our  House  of  Lords. 
As  Japan  has  borrowed  its  naval  training  from 
England  and  its  military  system  from  Germany, 
so  it  has  introduced  its  judicial  arrangements  from 
France.  No  juries  are  employed,  and  long  cross- 
questioning of  prisoners  and  defendants  by  the 
bench  are  familiar  features  of  the  proceedings  in 
court.  The  bar  is  exclusively  Japanese,  and  its 
members  enjoy  much  consideration  and  make  large 
incomes.  They  represent  clients,  address  the  court, 
and  suggest  to  the  judges  questions  to  put  to  the 
witnesses,  but  they  do  no  examining.  On  the 
other  hand,  admissions  which  they  make  are  held 
to  have  been  made  by  their  clients.  The  court 
consists  always  of  several  judges  sitting  as  a 


237 


238  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


bench.  There  is  also  in  each  court  a public 
prosecutor  who  represents  the  Crown  in  criminal 
cases,  and  watches  the  public  interest  in  civil 
ones.  The  accused  is  always  expected  to  confess, 
and  so  much  weight  is  attached  to  his  doing  so 
that,  up  to  thirty  years  ago,  torture  was  employed 
as  a regular  means  to  this  end.  Professor  Basil 
Chamberlain  tells  in  “Things  Japanese”  how 
its  abolition  was  brought  about  by  the  indignant 
protests  of  a distinguished  French  jurist,  em- 
ployed by  the  Japanese  Government  to  introduce 
the  present  system,  who  found  his  labours  in  the 
court  interrupted  by  groans,  and  forced  his  way 
to  their  source  to  discover  the  existence  of  a 
torture  chamber.  He  offered  his  employers  the 
alternative  of  abolishing  torture  or  of  losing  his 
services ; and  the  threat  prevailed.  The  change 
was  a very  necessary  preliminary  to  the  abandon- 
ment, so  necessary  to  Japan’s  status  among 
civilised  powers,  of  extra-territoriality. 

Judges  have  been  known  to  go  out  on  strike 
in  Japan  for  better  pay  ; but  their  probity  is  un- 
questioned. I have  heard  some  of  their  decisions 
in  commercial  cases,  in  which  Europeans  have 
been  concerned,  criticised  as  lacking  in  technical 
knowledge,  but  never  as  intentionally  unjust.  The 
judicial  system  has  been  transplanted  to  Japanese 
soil  with  little  loss  of  vitality ; but  the  French 
lawyers  who  introduced  the  exotic  have  now  re- 
tired and  its  culture  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
indigenes. 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  239 


I visited  the  High  Courts  in  Tokyo  under  the 
favourable  auspices  of  a letter  of  introduction  to  the 
Minister  of  Justice.  The  Chief  Justice  of  the  Local 
Court,  a solid  gentleman  in  European  morning  dress, 
was  good  enough  to  conduct  me  over  all  the  courts 
that  happened  to  be  sitting  ; and  the  secretary  to  the 
Minister  of  Justice  kindly  accompanied  us  as  inter- 
preter. We  passed  through  a simply  furnished 
ante-room  to  which  the  judges  retire  to  discuss 
their  decisions.  The  Chief  Justice  climbed  up  half 
a dozen  steps  at  the  far  end  and  opened  a small  door 
in  the  wall  at  the  top.  He  then  turned  and  beckoned 
us  to  follow  him.  Upon  the  other  side  we  found 
ourselves  upon  the  rostrum  of  the  bench  in  one  of 
the  smaller  courts,  and  were  accommodated  with 
chairs,  a little  in  the  rear  of  those  of  three  judges 
who  were  engaged  in  trying  a case. 

The  judges  wore  black  gauze  caps  and  plain 
black  robes ; and  the  impression  they  gave  me  was 
the  pleasant  one  of  substantial  capacity  and  quiet 
common  sense.  The  man  they  were  trying  was  a 
Japanese  coolie,  accused  of  selling  sak6  without  a 
licence.  The  senior  judge  was  examining  a defer- 
ential but  self-possessed  youth  appearing  as  a witness 
on  behalf  of  the  accused,  who  sat  stolidly  alongside. 
The  boy  was  questioned  as  to  his  connection  with 
the  principal  in  the  case,  and  was  told  eventually 
that  his  evidence  would  be  taken  as  that  of  a relative 
and  not  as  of  an  ordinary  witness,  the  latter  being 
liable  to  penalties  in  case  of  perjury  which  the 
former  escapes.  In  Japanese  law  you  may  lie  for 


240  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


your  relatives  without  committing  perjury,  but  your 
tendency  to  do  so  is  discounted  in  advance.  Two 
women  in  black  kimonos  sat  behind  with  troubled 
faces.  A ferret-faced  lawyer  in  cap  and  gown  was 
with  them. 

Our  visit  to  this  court  was  brief,  for  there  was 
much  to  see.  We  passed  into  another,  which  was 
also  subordinated  to  my  kindly  cicerone,  and  saw  a 
case  postponed  in  which  the  prisoner  refused  to 
confirm  the  statement  taken  down  by  the  judge 
in  the  preliminary  secret  examination  where  the 
primd  facie  case  is  made  out. 

Then  we  went  on  to  a third  and  sat  upon  the 
bench,  as  strangers  in  the  wake  of  a Chief  Justice 
may,  in  a very  much  more  important  case.  The 
large  hall  below  us  was  crowded.  Seventeen 
Japanese  in  robes,  with  the  look  of  keenness  and 
assurance  upon  their  faces  which  stands  for 
practising  barristers  in  all  parts  of  the  world, 
lounged  upon  seats  in  the  middle,  since  deference 
to  the  bench  is  not  exacted  from  the  bar  in  Japan 
as  strictly  as  in  England.  In  front  of  the  barristers 
were  huddled  some  fifty  accused  who  were  under  the 
charge  of  a number  of  court  officials.  On  one  side 
half  a dozen  newspaper  reporters  painted  in  pictorial 
shorthand.  A crowd  filled  the  body  of  the  building. 
We  were  assisting  at  the  trial  of  some  of  the  rioters 
who  had  made  a demonstration  against  the  accept- 
ance by  their  country  of  the  self-denying  conditions 
of  the  peace  treaty  with  Russia.  The  best  counsel 
in  Japan  were  engaged  in  the  defence,  and  the 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  241 


sympathy  of  the  spectators  was  all  upon  one  side. 
The  state  of  feeling  was  not  so  much  apparent  in 
the  attitude  of  the  silent  and  respectful  crowd  as 
implied  in  the  faces  of  the  accused,  who  were  grave 
but  by  no  means  disquieted,  though  several  people 
had  lost  their  lives  in  the  disturbance.  They 
believed  still  in  the  righteousness  of  their  action, 
and  relied  confidently  upon  the  patriotism  which  had 
prompted  their  offence  to  extract  them  from  serious 
consequence.  They  were  dressed,  like  the  crowd 
at  the  back,  in  the  blue  kimonos  of  the  working 
classes,  whereas  all  the  officials  of  the  court  wore 
European  dress  beneath  their  robes  of  office.  The 
judicial  desks  were  piled  high  with  paper  books 
containing  the  records  of  the  evidence. 

As  we  arrived,  the  senior  judge,  who  occupied  the 
central  seat  upon  the  bench,  was  reading  out  state- 
ments made  by  the  prisoners  in  their  preliminary 
secret  examination.  The  men  concerned  stood  up 
as  their  names  were  called ; and  I saw  no  endeavour 
made,  either  by  themselves  or  their  counsel,  to 
dispute  the  accuracy  of  the  record.  The  public 
prosecutor,  who  sat  to  the  right  of  the  bench, 
had  an  assistant  beside  him,  but  neither 
of  the  pair  spoke.  Their  responsibilities  were 
heavy,  since  the  side  they  represented  was  un- 
popular and  at  a disadvantage  as  regards  legal 
talent,  but  their  faces  wore  the  look  of  men  unlikely 
to  be  turned  from  their  duty  by  either  eloquence 
or  sentiment. 

The  case  proceeded  slowly,  and  the  senior  judge 


242  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


was  still  reading  out  the  notes  when  my  companions 
took  me  away.  Our  destination  was  now  the 
Appeal  Court,  outside  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Local 
Court  Chief  Justice,  so  a seat  upon  the  bench  was 
no  longer  available  ; and  we  made  our  way  to  an 
enclosure  open  to  the  public.  This  faced  the 
judicial  rostrum,  on  which  five  judges  sat  in  a 
row,  flanked  by  the  public  prosecutor  upon  the 
right  and  the  clerk  of  the  court  upon  the  left. 
Five  barristers  occupied  positions  at  a row  of 
small  tables  immediately  in  front  of  us.  We 
were  the  only  spectators  present,  and  neither  of 
the  parties  to  the  case  that  was  under  appeal 
appeared.  Two  of  the  barristers  were  upon  their 
feet,  one  of  them  silent,  the  other  rasping  out 
the  defence.  The  Chief  Judge,  who  sat  in  the 
centre  of  the  rostrum,  afterwards  said  a few  grave 
words,  and  the  case  was  over.  The  two  counsel 
for  the  defence,  also  a barrister  who  had  been 
for  the  plaintiff,  walked  out,  after  bowing  slightly 
to  the  bench.  They  left  the  door  open  behind 
them,  and  their  tramp  and  voices  echoed  loudly 
through  the  empty  stone  corridor  outside.  A 
marshal,  who  sat  below  the  bench,  in  white  duck 
uniform  with  brass  buttons,  opened  his  eyes  sud- 
denly and  climbed  carefully  down  from  his  chair, 
his  legs  not  being  long  enough  to  reach  the  ground 
as  he  sat.  He  walked  stiffly  across  the  court  and 
shut  the  door  with  precision,  thereafter  returning  to 
his  seat  and  reclosing  his  eyes.  The  court  clerk 
shut  up  his  note-book  and  put  away  a paint-brush. 


TBE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  243 


One  of  the  remaining  barristers  rose,  turned  over 
a packet  of  tissue  paper  covered  with  neat  black 
writing,  and  cleared  his  throat  loudly.  He  then 
muttered  a few  words  and  hunted  about  for  the 
place.  Judge  number  two  on  the  right  sighed 
softly.  Judge  number  one  on  the  left  changed  a 
cramped  position.  Stout  counsel  for  the  defendant 
sat  squarely  to  attention.  Counsel  for  the  petitioner 
found  the  place  at  last  and  got  into  his  subject.  He 
was  appealing  against  the  decision  of  a Local  Court 
which  had  thrown  out  a petition  to  have  a son  disquali- 
fied on  grounds  of  misbehaviour  from  succeeding  to 
family  property.  The  case  must  have  been  a forlorn 
one,  for  counsel  kept  his  nose  in  his  notes  and  sawed 
away  at  the  points  with  an  “ I don’t  care  what  you 
may  say  ” intonation  that  arrayed  all  my  sympathies 
in  favour  of  the  peccant  son.  I was  waiting  to  see 
the  Chief  Justice  glance  round  his  colleagues  and 
dismiss  the  appeal  when  my  conductors  arose  and 
led  the  way  out  of  the  court.  We  had  seen  the 
appellate  machine  at  work,  and  there  was  something 
else  to  be  done.  We  went  out  as  quietly  as  we 
could,  and  closed  the  door  carefully  behind,  but  the 
corridor  echoed  badly.  The  court  seemed  impervious 
to  interruption.  The  judges  on  the  bench  were  all 
watching  their  barrister,  and  I feel  confident  that 
they  dealt  with  him  firmly. 

Outside  we  met  an  under-trial  prisoner  in  an 
enormous  basket  mask,  since  such  is  the  kind- 
heartedness  of  the  Japanese  that  they  will  not  hurt 
even  a criminal’s  feelings  by  exposing  him  as  such  to 


244  the  new  and  the  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


the  public  gaze  until  they  are  quite  sure  no  mistake 
has  been  made  about  his  guilt.  He  was  on  his 
way  to  his  cell  in  the  basement,  from  the  secret 
examination  before  the  recording  judge.  A closely 
barred  door  to  this  secret  tribunal  was  shown  to  me. 
It  led  out  of  a dusky  passage  and  seemed  more 
appropriate  to  the  past  than  to  the  present.  Below 
were  the  cells  where  cheerful  Japanese  policemen 
kept  watch  over  disconsolate  under-trial  prisoners, 
who  turned  their  faces  away  as  we  approached. 

The  Supreme  Court  was  not  in  session,  but  my 
conductors  carried  me  to  its  rostrum,  where  stood 
the  seven  empty  chairs  of  the  ordinary  bench,  with 
space  around  them  for  twenty-three  more,  since  the 
whole  of  the  thirty  judges  sit  together  whenever 
an  appeal  which  involves  any  previous  decision  of 
any  of  their  number  is  brought  before  them.  They 
also  took  me  to  call  upon  the  President  of  the 
Supreme  Court,  a courteous  elderly  gentleman  in 
European  dress,  who  gave  us  tea  in  his  simply 
furnished  office  and  inquired  politely,  in  Japanese, 
about  my  travels,  suggesting  that  I should  visit  the 
Singamo  prison  to  obtain  a further  impression  of 
the  system  of  Japanese  justice. 

To  the  Singamo  prison  I accordingly  went  the  next 
day.  It  is  at  the  other  end  of  Tokyo,  and  confines 
eighteen  hundred  long-term  prisoners.  The  wards 
are  well-built  structures,  radiating  from  a centre  and 
elaborately  fitted  up.  The  prisoners  were  engaged, 
under  the  supervision  of  a surprisingly  large  number 
of  paid  warders,  in  such  industries  as  weaving,  boot- 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  245 


making,  tailoring,  grain-grinding,  and  smithy  work. 
The  system  largely  utilised  in  India,  of  employing 
the  better-behaved  convicts  to  look  after  their 
more  troublesome  fellows,  was  not  adopted.  I saw 
attractive  kitchens  where  savoury  rice  and  vege- 
tables were  being  cooked  for  the  convicts,  and  was 
shown  the  varying  measures  of  food  given  to  each 
individual  to  accord  with  his  behaviour ; for  the 
Japanese  hold  quite  wisely  that  violence  and  mis- 
behaviour are  best  met  by  reducing  the  rice  supply. 
This  means  of  discipline,  I gathered,  was  held 
rather  in  terrorem  than  practised  habitually,  since 
most  of  the  prisoners  looked  well  fed  and  cheerful. 
The  arrangements  were  so  complicated  that  I was 
not  surprised  to  learn  that  the  cost  of  each  prisoner 
is  a hundred  per  cent,  more  than  in  Indian  jails, 
though  this  did  not  seem  to  imply  any  noticeably 
higher  standard  of  health  or  reformation. 

The  whole  organisation,  from  the  secret  chambers 
of  preliminary  judicial  investigation,  where  the 
accused  is  tried  by  every  test  but  that  of  the  opinion 
of  his  peers,  to  the  glazed  hospital  wards  of  the 
prison,  where  the  consumptive  criminal  is  given  every 
luxury  except  fresh  air,  struck  me  as  over-elaborated 
in  faithful  imitation  of  not  always  perfect  European 
models.  It  represents,  however,  a surprisingly 
high  standard,  considering  the  shortness  of  the 
time  which  has  elapsed  since  its  introduction  from 
the  West ; and  its  limitations  are  typical  of  the  stage 
which  Japan  has  now  reached  as  a state  civilised 
upon  Western  pattern. 


246  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


To  step  back  into  the  Japan  of  the  past  it  is 
necessary  to  go  no  further  than  the  immense  pandal 
in  the  heart  of  the  city  in  which  the  national  wrest- 
ling competition  is  still  held.  The  road  passes  the 
palace  garden,  where  a space  as  big  as  Trafalgar 
Square  is  hedged  with  closely  set  rows  of  guns  of 
every  calibre,  captured  from  the  Russians  and 
hauled  to  this  central  location,  without  regard  to 
cost  or  labour,  to  be  a perpetual  reminder  to  the 
Japanese  people  of  danger  they  must  ever  stand 
ready  to  face. 

A jinrickshaw  whirled  me  to  the  Ekoin  temple 
and  on  through  an  arch  thirty  feet  high,  which  in 
itself  constitutes  one  of  the  prizes  given  to  the 
master  wrestler.  The  arch  was  built  of  nothing 
but  straw-bound  pots,  the  size  of  coal-scuttles,  each 
filled  to  its  earthen  brim  with  the  strongest  sake. 
Beyond  was  the  wrestling  booth,  an  immense  struc- 
ture, into  the  dark  interior  of  which  sunbeams  slanted 
distractingly  through  holes  in  the  torn  mat  roof. 
Only  slowly  could  a way  be  made  through  the 
crowd  to  a tottering  grand-stand,  where  seats 
were  obtainable.  A dado  of  yellow  faces,  white 
straw  hats,  and  dingy  kimonos  lined  the  walls  of 
the  thronged  amphitheatre.  In  the  middle  was  a 
raised  mud  platform  containing  a small  ring  marked 
off  by  a hayrope  sunk  in  the  floor.  The  platform 
was  shaded  by  an  erection  like  that  which  covers  a 
four-poster  bed. 

An  umpire  squatted  gravely  upon  his  heels  at  the 
foot  of  each  of  the  bed-posts.  On  benches  around 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  247 


were  half  a dozen  of  the  biggest  and  fattest  Japanese 
I have  ever  seen.  They  were  innocent  of  clothes 
except  for  a blue  belt  with  stiff  tassels,  which  stuck 
out  round  them  like  the  frill  on  a ham-bone.  The 
flesh  hung  from  their  sides  in  pendulous  masses. 
It  was  the  most  lamentable  spectacle  of  strong 
men  made  gross  and  what  we  should  think  out 
of  condition,  I had  ever  seen. 

Presently  there  appeared  in  the  ring  a grey 
kimono  with  white  socks  below,  a large  fan  at  one 
side,  and  a round  head  of  closely  cropped  black 
hair  on  top.  It  was  the  master  of  the  ceremonies 
with  his  back  towards  us,  in  the  act  of  making  an 
announcement  to  the  assembly.  With  no  desire  to 
be  flippant,  I can  only  say  that  the  words,  which 
were  of  course  incomprehensible,  sounded  like  the 
prolonged  lamentations  of  a deserted  cat.  The 
interpreter  explained  that  they  signified  the  post- 
ponement of  the  finals  by  a day  for  the  reason  that 
one  of  the  champions  had  cut  his  lip. 

The  situation  thus  cleared,  two  of  the  fat  men 
lumbered  up,  one  from  either  side,  to  plant  them- 
selves opposite  to  one  another  in  the  ring,  where 
they  stood  with  feet  wide  apart  and  looked  at  each 
other.  Then  one  of  them  lifted  up  a huge  leg 
sideways,  until  the  knee  was  almost  as  high  as  the 
shoulder,  and  brought  it  down  again  with  a stamp. 
He  repeated  the  performance  first  with  one  foot 
and  then  with  the  other  a number  of  times  over. 
His  vis-a-vis  copied  him  exactly. 

The  two  great  men  were  stretching  themselves 


248  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


before  their  admirers,  and  we  all  waited  respect- 
fully ; but  nothing  happened.  Suddenly  both 
squatted  down  on  their  heels.  The  grey  kimono 
did  the  same,  and  extended  a yellow  hand  to  set 
great  man  number  one  back  an  inch  exactly,  after 
which  he  flapped  his  fan  violently  and  caterwauled 
more  briefly.  A homeric  battle  was  surely  about 
to  begin,  but  not  so.  Number  one  champion 
suddenly  stood  up  and  went  off  the  platform  for  a 
drink,  which  he  took  with  much  ceremony.  Number 
two  champion  followed  his  example,  and  rubbed 
himself  all  over  with  a small  piece  of  thin  paper. 
The  first  round  was  over,  and  neither  had  touched 
the  other ; but  both  took  a good  rest  before  they 
reappeared  in  the  ring.  Then  the  process  was 
repeated.  The  second  round  was  exactly  like  the 
first,  except  that  hero  number  one  danced  on  his 
heels,  and  hero  number  two  took  exercise  by 
standing  up  straight  and  then  suddenly  getting 
down  upon  his  hands  and  knees — manoeuvres  which 
required  hero  number  one  to  do  the  same.  Neither 
touched  the  other,  but  this  did  not  interfere  with  the 
necessity  of  another  adjournment  for  drinks  and 
massage.  The  third,  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth  rounds 
were  equally  preliminary. 

The  audience  grew  impatient,  and  an  individual 
in  the  dress  circle  barked  out  some  comment  at 
which  there  was  a roar.  “ He  say  first-class 
wrestlers  not  so  slow,”  interpreted  the  hotel  guide. 
There  was  another  shout,  and  “ He  say  so  long 
time  must  pay  forfeit,”  was  the  translation. 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  249 


Then  something  happened.  Number  two  made 
a spring  and  clutched  at  number  one,  but  number 
one  did  not  approve.  He  folded  his  arms  and 
backed  out  of  the  ring  without  being  collared. 
That  finished  round  the  seventh,  and  there  was 
another  interval  for  rest  and  refreshments.  The 
eighth  round  was  no  more  exciting ; but  in  the 
ninth  number  one  took  the  offensive.  Number 
two  refused,  but  was  too  late  in  doing  so,  and 
received  as  he  retired  a heavy  push  and  an  open- 
handed  smack  in  the  eye  which  sent  him  flying  off 
the  stage.  He  sat  down  and  nursed  his  eye  with  a 
paper  pocket-handkerchief,  getting  up  now  and  then 
to  rinse  his  mouth  with  water.  Number  one  stood 
proudly  to  attention  in  the  ring  while  various 
officials  in  old  willow-pattern  petticoats  crowded 
round  number  two  to  suggest  he  should  return  to 
the  contest ; but  number  two  had  had  enough  and 
would  not.  The  grey  kimono  went  to  the  umpires 
and  had  a lengthy  confabulation  with  each  apart. 
Then  all  four  umpires  rose  stiffly  to  their  feet  and 
discussed  the  matter  together  in  the  middle  of  the 
ring.  One  of  them  was  deputed  to  examine  the 
eye,  which  showed  no  signs  of  injury  visible  from 
the  grand  stand.  He  returned,  and  a further 
council  was  held. 

At  length  the  senior  willow-pattern  made  an 
announcement,  which  we  all  received  with  relief. 
The  interpreter  explained  that  the  match  was 
drawn,  but  not  with  honour.  Number  one  re- 
tired with  head  erect.  Number  two  shuffled  off 
dejectedly,  and  two  fresh  champions  appeared. 


250  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


This  time  there  was  to  be  no  fiasco.  The 
stamping  and  leg-stretching  lasted  not  more  than  a 
minute.  Then  both  got  down  upon  their  hands  and 
knees.  The  umpire  tapped  them  apart,  and  both 
went  off  for  a drink.  Then  they  faced  each  other 
again,  and  in  a flash  were  boxing  like  two  cats  on  a 
housetop.  The  struggle  lasted  ten  seconds,  and 
the  one  who  was  bald-headed  received  a punch  on 
the  throat  which  sent  him  out  of  the  ring.  That 
finished  the  event,  and  the  man  who  was  still  in  the 
ring  was  clapped  as  victorious. 

Other  pairs  succeeded.  Two  men  like  bladders 
gripped  each  other  suddenly,  with  hardly  any  pre- 
liminaries, and  fell  heavily  together.  The  wrestler 
who  was  uppermost  was  declared  the  victor.  It 
was  almost  impossible  to  believe  that  the  man 
underneath  had  not  burst  with  the  shock,  so 
extraordinarily  inflated  was  his  person  and  so 
violent  the  concussion,  but  he  picked  himself  up 
cheerfully,  none  the  worse  for  the  encounter,  which 
had  at  least  been  honourable. 

Presently  a well-matched  couple  set  to  work  and 
struggled  violently  about  the  ring  for  half  a minute 
in  tight  embrace.  Then  they  leant  up  against  each 
other  heavily  to  recover  breath.  The  real  thing 
had  surely  come  at  last.  But  no ; the  master  of 
the  ceremonies  interfered.  He  touched  each  man 
on  the  shoulder,  whereupon  the  embrace  was  ended 
and  the  meek  combatants  retired  for  the  indis- 
pensable refreshments. 

The  proceedings  had  become  wearisome,  and 


THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO  251 


the  prospect  of  another  long  set  of  preliminaries 
was  not  exhilarating.  It  was  an  agreeable  surprise, 
therefore,  to  see  that  the  match  was  to  be  con- 
tinued where  it  had  left  off.  The  champions 

reappeared,  and  the  umpires  took  hold  of  their 
long  arms  and  arranged  them  round  each  other, 
exactly  as  they  had  been  before.  Another  well- 
matched  tussle  ensued.  Neither  went  down,  and 
in  a few  seconds  the  umpire  again  interfered. 
This  time  it  was  to  announce  that  a draw  with 
honour  had  occurred.  The  champions  unlocked, 
and  retired  with  equal  pride  to  the  cheerful  accom- 
paniment of  clapping. 

The  last  round  of  the  day  followed.  A lithe 
man  in  hard  condition  but  small  of  stature  tackled 
a fat  giant  vigorously  and  well.  The  giant  threw 
his  assailant  at  last  and  fell  heavily  beside  him  ; 
but  the  smaller  man  s pluck  was  excellent,  and  the 
assembly  cheered  him  lustily.  The  guide  explained 
that  the  winner  in  this  case  was  the  second  favourite. 

The  proceedings  terminated  and  the  crowd 
trooped  out  in  orderly  fashion.  The  fat  men 
strutted  up  and  down  the  road  with  self-satisfied 
smiles,  their  long  black  hair  done  up  in  chignons  on 
the  tops  of  their  heads.  One  of  them  sailed  past 
at  dangerous  pace  through  the  crowd,  in  a jinrick- 
shaw with  two  gaily  dressed  coolies  harnessed 
tandem-fashion  in  front.  Everybody  made  way 
respectfully.  Heads  looked  out  from  all  the 
windows.  The  dignity  of  the  profession  of  the 
wrestler  was  unmistakable. 


252  THE  NEW  AND  THE  OLD  IN  TOKYO 


Between  the  High  Court  and  the  wrestling  booth 
is  a gulf  of  a thousand  years,  which  the  breaking 
down  of  the  barrier  against  the  European  has 
enabled  the  Japanese  to  bridge  in  one  generation. 
Nominally  that  barrier  is  still  down ; but  the 
European  who  has  taught  Japan  the  sciences  and 
arts  by  which  she  has  profited  so  magnificently  no 
longer  finds  the  opening  as  practicable  as  it  was.  A 
new  phase  has  begun  in  which  the  Japanese  people 
have  commenced  once  more  to  rely  upon  themselves 
alone.  They  are  turning  more  and  more  to  their 
ancient  wrestling  booths.  Their  borrowed  Euro- 
pean lawyers  have  retired,  and  the  amendment  of 
the  code  of  their  High  Court  is  left  to  indigenous 
hands.  If  the  movement  be  general,  as  I believe 
to  be  the  case,  it  cannot  fail  of  effect  upon  the 
future,  for  the  wrestling  is  typical  of  what  the  race 
has  thought  well  to  evolve  when  left  to  its  unaided 
resources.  The  enormous  momentum,  which  has 
been  borrowed  from  Europe,  will  no  doubt  long 
continue ; but  momentum  tends  to  decrease  when 
not  continually  reinforced.  Upon  the  extent  and 
the  frequency  with  which  Japan  will  consider  it 
necessary  to  import  this  reinforcement  probably 
depends  her  future  among  the  powers  that  stand 
for  modern  civilisation. 


CHAPTER  XXI 


INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 

IN  the  year  1900,  when  urgent  necessity  arose  to 
send  troops  to  the  relief  of  Peking,  the  South 
African  War  was  still  in  progress,  and  Great  Britain 
was  not  in  a position  to  undertake  an  additional 
campaign  in  a field  so  remote  as  China.  The  task 
of  relieving  the  endangered  Legation  was  therefore 
handed  over  to  the  Government  of  India.  Simla 
responded  with  a promptitude  and  efficiency  which 
argued  well  for  her  ability  to  meet  Imperial  demands 
of  greater  scope.  Not  once,  while  the  lights  burned 
late  in  the  departmental  offices  under  the  deodars, 
did  she  turn  to  Pall  Mall  for  help  in  her  prepara- 
tions. Not  once  was  it  even  hinted,  at  all  events 
publicly,  that  any  but  an  Indian  officer  should  take 
command  of  the  contingent.  Delicate  situations 
arising  out  of  the  international  character  of  the 
undertaking  were  handled  with  a tact  that  had  little 
to  learn  from  the  British  Foreign  Office.  Cawn- 
pore  and  Calcutta  factories  furnished  tents,  clothes, 
boots,  saddlery,  and  ammunition.  To-day  they 
could  furnish  rifles  and  field  guns  as  well.  In  the 

thronged  harbours  of  Calcutta  and  Bombay  the 

253 


254  INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


Indian  Marine  Department  took  its  pick  of  Indian 
merchant  steamers  for  transport.  Thirty  thousand 
troops  were  told  off  and  despatched  with  all  field 
equipment,  and  reached  the  scene  of  the  operations 
in  China  at  least  a month  sooner  than  would  have 
been  the  case  if  they  had  embarked  in  the  English 
Channel. 

The  bulk  of  the  force  was  native,  and  the  regi- 
ments were  drawn  chiefly  from  the  Bombay  and 
Madras  commands,  in  order  to  give  those  corps  a 
chance  of  distinguishing  themselves  which  seldomest 
see  fighting  on  the  Indian  frontiers.  The  regiments 
of  the  Punjab  command,  which  are  inured  to 
extremes  of  climate  and  hardened  by  border  war- 
fare, were  scarcely  represented.  The  contingent 
went  from  enervating  stations  in  the  hot  plains  of 
Southern  and  Western  India  to  the  snow  and  frost 
of  a Chihli  winter,  yet  the  white  troops  of  Germany, 
France  and  Italy  failed  to  outstay  our  force  upon 
the  march  or  to  surpass  it  in  action.  The  Indian 
troops  took  more  than  their  full  share  of  hardship, 
and  were  first  inside  Peking  in  the  attack  in  which 
the  operations  culminated — an  honour  attributable 
to  campaigning  quality  as  well  as  to  luck.  The 
health  of  the  Indians  was  vastly  better  than  that 
of  the  Germans.  Their  discipline  was  superior 
to  that  of  any  of  the  Allies,  the  Japanese  alone 
excepted.  Their  strength  was  that  which  the 
British  Government  considered  necessary.  Had 
a force  three  times  as  large  been  wanted  the 
demand  could  have  been  met.  Far  from  exhaust- 


INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST  255 


ing  the  resources  of  India  the  expedition  laid  only 
small  and  light  toll  upon  them. 

Great  Britain  paid  the  cost  of  the  contingent 
because  the  Legation  which  had  to  be  rescued 
was  her  own.  India  would  have  been  fully  able 
to  find  the  money.  The  gross  revenues  of  its 
Government  exceed  eighty  million  sterling  annually. 
There  is  little  burden  of  debt  for  other  than  such 
reproductive  public  works  as  railways  and  canals  ; 
and  surpluses  have  been  so  much  the  rule  of  late 
years,  in  spite  of  two  recent  reductions  in  the 
rate  of  taxation,  that  large  military  enterprises  can 
be  conducted  without  upsetting  the  financial 
equilibrium.  It  must  also  be  remembered  that 
fighting  is  the  hereditary  employment  of  large 
sections  of  the  races  of  the  northern  provinces. 
The  trade  of  arms  is  understood  and  followed  as 
a profitable  calling  by  men  whose  ancestors  were 
seldom  at  peace. 

The  ability  of  India  to  assist  Great  Britain  in 
the  Far  East  rests  upon  the  sound  basis  of 
military  preparedness  buttressed  by  financial 
strength  ; but  the  question  naturally  arises  as  to 
how  far  the  British  Government  is  justified  in 
employing  that  ability.  If  India  were  here  a 
mere  tool  of  empire,  with  no  considerable  interests 
of  her  own  to  serve,  she  might  be  considered  to 
be  hardly  used  by  a policy  which  made  her  an 
active  participant  in  Far  East  affairs ; but  the 
contrary  is  the  case.  India  is  affected  by  Far 
Eastern  conditions  almost  as  closely  as  Great 


256  INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


Britain.  Calcutta  and  Bombay  do  a larger  trade 
with  China  than  with  any  other  country  except 
the  United  Kingdom.  The  Indian  taxpayer  is 
relieved  of  an  annual  burden  of  some  three 
million  sterling  by  the  taste  of  the  Chinese  for 
the  opium  of  Patna  and  Benares.  China  and 
Japan  are  the  principal  foreign  buyers  of  Deccan 
cotton  goods  and  Bengal  jute.  They  also  take  the 
major  portion  of  Indian  fish  exports,  and  afford  the 
principal  market  for  the  indigo  of  Behar.  Fleets  of 
steamers  owned  in  Calcutta  and  Bombay  trade 
between  India  and  the  Far  East.  Indians  are 
employed  as  police  in  all  the  treaty  ports  of  China. 
An  Indian  regiment  guards  British  interests  at 
Shan-hai-kwan.  Anglo-Indians  are  engaged  in 
the  development  of  mining,  trade,  and  railway 
enterprises  from  Canton  to  Peking.  Members 
of  the  Indian  Staff  Corps  and  the  Indian  Medical, 
Public  Works  and  Survey  Departments  have  been 
pioneers  in  exploration  throughout  the  Chinese 
Empire. 

The  western  border  of  China  marches,  for 
several  hundred  miles,  with  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  Indian  Empire  ; and  the  establishment  of 
direct  railway  communication  between  Rangoon  and 
Shanghai  is  only  a question  of  time.  A well-found 
British  railway,  with  many  feeders,  has  been  built 
from  one  end  of  Burma  to  the  other  to  connect  the 
principal  port  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  with  Mandalay  and  Myitkyina.  At  Man- 
dalay a branch  has  been  constructed  a hundred 


INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST  257 


miles  in  a north-easterly  direction  to  Lashio,  near 
the  Chinese  border.  Another  branch  is  creeping 
forward  further  north  from  Bhamo  to  Tangyueh  ; 
and  both  are  designed  to  admit  of  ultimate  extension 
into  Chinese  territory.  The  original  plans  for  the 
Mandalay- Lashio  section  included  an  extension  to 
the  Kunlan  ferry  upon  the  Salween  river ; but 
construction  was  stopped,  three  years  ago,  when 
Lashio  had  been  reached,  as  the  prospects  of  local 
trade  by  this  route  did  not  then  justify  the  heavy 
demand  upon  the  revenues  of  India  involved  in 
further  eastern  progress.  The  country  between  the 
Burmese  frontier  and  the  Yangtse  basin  is  cut  up 
by  an  almost  continuous  series  of  deep  gorges  which 
run  at  right  angles  to  the  general  direction  of  the 
route.  This  makes  railway  construction  costly  but 
not  impossible.  The  undertaking  has  been  aban- 
doned as  a local  venture,  but  could  be  put  through 
with  certainty  if  it  became  an  Imperial  concern. 

Military  affairs  and  commercial,  shipping,  and 
railway  interests  do  not  exhaust  the  potentialities 
of  India  were  opportunity  available  in  the  Far  East. 
The  system  pursued  in  India  of  giving  large  powers 
and  much  freedom  of  action  to  officials  has  created 
a body  of  men  prompt  of  action,  skilled  in  Eastern 
affairs,  and  ready  to  accept  responsibility,  such  as 
no  other  country  in  the  world  possesses.  Admini- 
strators, engineers,  and  judicial,  medical,  educational, 
police  and  scientific  officers  are  available  in  very 
large  numbers.  Enough  highly  trained  servants  of 
the  Government  of  India  are  upon  leave  and  in 


258  INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


retirement  at  the  present  moment  to  man,  if  need 
arose,  a Chinese  province. 

The  problems  of  the  Far  East  of  to-day  are  but 
new  versions  of  those  which  India  has  already 
solved  for  herself  since  she  left  the  stage  of  not 
altogether  dissimilar  political  chaos.  The  men 
who  have  been  active  agents  in  the  one  case  might 
be  of  equal  value  in  the  other.  Great  Britain  pos- 
sesses in  India  a skilful  interpreter,  a large  partner, 
and  a strong  coadjutor  in  Far  Eastern  affairs.  Her 
own  ability  to  shape  these  affairs  to  advantage 
depends  to  a great  extent  upon  her  Indian  re- 
sources, and  not  only  upon  those  resources,  but 
upon  the  extent  to  which  she  is  willing  to  make 
use  of  them.  The  East  is  best  dealt  with  by  the 
East,  and  Great  Britain  is  alone  amongst  the 
nations  of  Europe  in  owning  the  means  to  turn  this 
fact  to  account. 

Intricate  political  questions  involving  those 
Eastern  prejudices,  bred  of  diversity  of  race  and 
conflict  of  faith,  which  are  so  baffling  to  the  Western 
mind,  are  handled  at  Simla  with  knowledge  and 
experience.  The  Indian  Foreign  Office  affords 
efficient  help  in  the  conduct  of  the  political  relations 
of  Great  Britain  with  Afghanistan,  Muscat,  and 
Southern  Persia.  An  arrangement  which  has 
proved  successful  when  applied  to  the  Western 
neighbours  of  India  is  not  to  be  neglected  so  far  as 
it  is  applicable  to  the  Eastern.  It  facilitates,  within 
the  scope  at  present  prescribed  to  it,  the  employ- 
ment by  a democracy  of  patriarchal  methods  with 


INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST  259 


races  that  most  appreciate  them.  It  utilises  tried 
Eastern  experience  for  the  solution  of  Eastern 
problems  and  identifies  the  men  upon  whom  Great 
Britain  must  largely  rely  in  trouble  with  her 
councillors  in  peace.  The  Indian  army,  a quarter 
of  a million  strong,  keeps  watch  upon  the  road  to 
China.  A signal  flashed  from  Simla  will  change 
the  solitary  tramp  of  sentries  into  the  hum  of  march- 
ing hosts.  We  have  already  proved  the  effective- 
ness of  this  striking  force.  The  men  who  have 
organised  it,  who  have  inspired  it  with  loyalty  to 
Great  Britain  and  made  it  independent  of  the 
British  taxpayer,  can  also  be  trusted  to  be  respon- 
sible and  enlightened  advisers  of  the  home  Govern- 
ment in  affairs  in  which  that  army  must  always  be 
the  first  support. 

The  trend  of  political  thought  in  England  is 
gradually  but  surely  unfitting  the  mother  country 
for  direct  relations  with  races  unresponsive  to  the 
ideals  of  modern  Anglo-Saxondom.  The  British 
workman  may  prove  himself  in  the  future  a shrewd 
administrator  of  his  own  municipal  affairs  ; but  by 
the  time  his  imperial  education  is  completed  he  may 
have  lost  his  valuable  Far  East  markets,  if  he  fails 
to  make  use  of  the  expert  agency,  backed  by  armed 
force  of  its  own  and  removed  from  party  politics, 
which  is  available  to  assist  him.  Peking  is  no 
longer  a bear  garden  of  European  Legations  where 
the  scramble  of  Continental  Powers  for  Far  East 
concessions  had  to  be  frustrated  if  Great  Britain  was 
to  hold  her  own.  It  has  become  a mart  where  the 


260  INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 


yellow  man  in  confirmed  possession  meets  the  white 
with  every  Eastern  wile.  If  Great  Britain  is  to 
avoid  finding  herself  displaced  under  these  new 
conditions,  she  must  not  neglect  the  Eastern 
resources  in  her  control. 

No  friction  has  resulted  in  Southern  Persia  from 
co-operation  between  political  officers  appointed  by 
the  British  Foreign  Office  and  others  selected  by 
the  Government  of  India  and  supported  by  suitable 
escorts  from  the  Indian  army.  Similar  co-ordination 
of  British  and  Indian  resources,  with  modification  to 
suit  each  case,  is  possible  in  other  parts  of  the  world 
as  well  as  Persia,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that,  if 
applied  in  the  Far  East  as  opportunity  offered,  it 
would  tend  to  augment  Anglo-Saxon  influence. 

No  dramatic  change  in  the  existing  system  is 
suggested,  but  occasion  for  such  co-ordination  should 
be  taken  as  it  might  arise.  At  the  moment.  Great 
Britain  needs  additional  agents  to  represent  her 
interests  in  Manchurian  and  other  centres  that 
are  in  course  of  being  thrown  open  to  international 
commerce.  She  could  well  ask  the  Government 
of  India  to  supply  them.  Indian  trade  upon  the 
Yangtse  river,  again,  is  sufficiently  extensive  to 
justify  the  appointment  of  Anglo-Indians  to  foster 
it  in  stations  where  consular  officers  are  not  already 
located. 

The  Oriental  pays  little  attention  to  what  he  does 
not  see.  At  present  the  only  representatives  of 
Great  Britain,  known  in  hundreds  of  stations  in 
China,  are  missionaries,  who  are  neither  intended 


INDIA  AS  A LEVER  IN  THE  FAR  EAST  261 


nor  equipped  to  support  the  political  interests  of 
their  fellow-countrymen.  The  more  numerous  and 
widely  distributed  the  accredited  agents  of  a nation 
the  greater  will  be  its  prestige.  British  prestige 
may  stand  higher  than  that  of  any  other  European 
Power  in  the  Far  East  and  yet  be  the  better  for 
even  small  additional  support ; and  that  which  India 
is  able  to  lend  is  very  far  from  inconsiderable. 

The  lending  of  consular  officers  is  not  the  only 
service  which  India  is  capable  of  performing.  Com- 
paratively recently  a former  head  of  the  Indian 
Foreign  Office  was  given  diplomatic  charge  in 
Teheran,  and  later  on  in  Washington.  It  would 
be  more  to  the  purpose  if  such  promotion  were  to 
lead  to  Shanghai  and  Peking. 

It  is  no  new  thing  for  the  Far  East  to  lean  upon 
India.  A religion  which  Chinese  and  Japanese 
alike  profess  was  imported  from  Western  Bengal, 
where  Buddha  lived  and  preached  two  thousand 
years  ago.  In  the  ages  since  Sanskrit  was  the 
learned  language  of  Asia,  the  Mongolian  has 
borrowed  from  the  Indian  in  literature,  in  philo- 
sophy, and  in  art.  The  worship  of  ancestors,  the 
race  diet  of  rice  and  fish,  the  fire  drill  used  in 
Shinto  temples,  and  fables  current  in  both  China 
and  Japan,  are  said  to  be  traceable  to  the  teaching 
of  Indian  sutras.  If  influence  exercised  from  India 
should  hereafter  become  prominent  in  Far  Eastern 
affairs,  it  will  be  but  the  restoration  of  a connection 
suggested  by  history,  approved  by  existing  tradi- 
tion, and  supported  by  the  sentiment  of  the  past. 


CHAPTER  XXII 


THE  OUTLOOK 


HE  new  tact  from  which  all  inference  must 


X proceed,  is  that  the  situation  in  the  Far  East 
has  resolved  itself,  since  the  Russo-Japanese  War, 
into  a question  of  difficulties  and  dangers  arising 
from  the  peoples  of  the  Far  East  and  from  no  one 
else.  These  difficulties  and  dangers  can  be  asso- 
ciated only  with  Japan  and  China,  which  are  now 
masters  of  the  fate  of  the  Mongolian  race.  So 
much  stands  clear. 

Japan  has  become  one  of  the  Great  Powers, 
though  still  poor,  and  not  possessed  of  that  vast 
population  which  renders  the  potentialities  of  China 
so  overwhelming.  The  unaided  martial  energy  of 
the  forty-five  million  subjects  of  the  Mikado,  how- 
ever well  directed,  need  never  upset  the  equilibrium 
of  the  world.  Japan  must  exercise  rigid  economy 
for  another  ten  years  to  wipe  off  the  burden  of 
financial  indebtedness  imposed  upon  her  by  war 
with  Russia.  She  has  undertaken  a heavy  and 
protracted  task  in  the  government  of  Korea.  Her 
administration  of  Formosa,  though  successful  after 


264 


THE  OUTLOOK 


a long  period  of  costly  friction  and  rebuff,  puts  a 
serious  drain  upon  her  manhood.  The  Japanese 
entertain  an  entirely  legitimate  ambition  to  become 
the  England  of  the  Far  East,  and  to  beat  European 
nations  in  their  own  arts  of  industry  and  commerce. 
They  are  pressing  forward  in  this  direction  per- 
sistently. Their  achievements  are  great  and  their 
possibilities  are  greater,  though  limited  in  many 
ways.  Their  aims  are  not  altruistic,  and  their 
commercial  methods  are  open  to  objection ; but 
they  remain  capable  of  combining  efficiently  with 
Great  Britain  and  America  in  the  one  thing  essen- 
tial, which  is  the  maintenance  of  open  markets 
in  China. 

Japan  has  attained  uneasy  eminence.  Her  suc- 
cess in  curbing  the  aggression  of  Russia  in  Man- 
churia is  resented  by  the  whole  of  Continental 
Europe  with  a bitterness  of  race  feeling  which  is 
shared  by  the  Germans,  Frenchmen,  Belgians,  and 
Russians,  who  collectively  outnumber  the  British  in 
most  of  the  treaty  ports  of  China.  Twelve  years 
ago  Germany  and  France  combined  with  Russia  to 
rob  Japan  of  the  fruits  of  her  victories  over  China. 
They  would  do  the  same  now  if  opportunity  offered. 
They  watch  Japan  with  a jealousy  which  allows 
no  slip,  however  trifling,  to  escape  attention,  and 
the  attitude  of  Great  Britain  alone  prevents  active 
manifestation  of  hostility.  The  Japanese  fully 
realise  the  nature  of  the  situation.  They  have 
shattered,  after  prolonged  efforts  which  have  strained 
the  capabilities  of  their  country  to  the  utmost,  that 


THE  OUTLOOK 


265 


portion  of  the  might  of  Russia  which  the  rolling- 
stock  of  a single  line  of  rails  was  able  to  carry  to 
the  Far  East  across  the  wilds  of  Siberia ; but  their 
leaders  recognise,  with  characteristic  directness, 
both  the  small  extent  of  Japanese  resources  and  the 
special  nature  of  the  circumstances  which  enabled 
them  to  prevail. 

The  single  mistake  fairly  chargeable  to  the 
Japanese  is,  as  we  have  seen,  a serious  one. 
They  have  allowed  themselves  to  be  carried 
away  by  popular  exaltation,  in  the  hour  of  vic- 
tory, into  disregarding  the  spirit  of  their  treaty 
engagements  in  Manchuria  and  Korea.  It  has 
been  shown  in  an  earlier  chapter  that  European 
merchants,  including  those  of  Great  Britain  and 
America,  find  their  transactions  hampered  and 
those  of  their  Japanese  competitors  unduly  favoured 
in  Seoul  and  Mukden.  Complaints  are  loud-voiced. 
Japanese  traders  have  been  allowed  to  import  their 
goods  into  Manchuria  vid  Dalny,  where  they  have 
paid  no  duty,  for  a full  year,  during  which  Europeans 
could  enter  only  vid  Neuchwang,  where  import 
duties  had  to  be  paid.  This  appears  to  be  now 
under  rectification  ; but  the  rates  upon  the  railways 
in  the  new  territory,  which  are  all  in  Japanese 
hands,  are  still  complained  of  as  designed  to  favour 
the  Japanese  at  the  expense  of  the  foreigner. 
The  silk-cocoon  trade  between  China  and  Antung, 
which  was  once  done  by  Europeans,  has  passed  to 
the  Japanese  ; and  other  traffic  is  threatened.  The 
grievance  is  real,  and  is  not  the  less  deserving  of 


266 


THE  OUTLOOK 


notice  because  natural  of  occurrence  and  easy  to 
make  allowance  for  alter  the  events  of  the  war. 
Grave  complications  are  liable  to  result  if  the 
attitude  adopted  by  Japan  in  act,  though  not  in 
profession,  be  persisted  in  ; but  it  is  not  too  late  for 
the  trouble  to  be  dealt  with  adequately  by  friendly 
diplomatic  action.  The  Japanese  profess  that  they 
have  no  intention  of  breaking  their  engagements, 
and  they  realise  clearly  that  their  need  to  avoid 
national  isolation  outweighs  altogether  such  mate- 
rial advantage  as  is  to  be  derived  from  displacing 
Anglo-Saxon  and  other  European  trade. 

The  Japanese  are  not  exclusively  to  blame  in 
the  matter.  Great  Britain  has  helped  to  bring  the 
difficulty  upon  herself,  by  failure  to  appoint  sufficient 
consuls  to  look  after  the  interests  of  her  subjects  in 
the  outlying  cities  of  the  vast  mainland  territories 
which  are  now  under  Japanese  influence.  This  is 
especially  the  case  in  the  rich  plains  of  Northern 
Manchuria,  which  have  possibilities  of  agricultural 
and  mining  development  second  only  to  those  of 
the  new  provinces  of  North-Western  Canada.  The 
United  States  have  been  somewhat  more  alive  to 
their  interests  in  this  respect ; but  both  countries 
may  direct  attention  to  the  matter  with  advantage. 
Both  are  well  represented  in  Neuchwang  and 
Seoul ; but  both  should  possess  additional  agents  of 
ability  inland,  and  should  support  them  vigorously. 

Difficulty  is  not  confined  to  Manchuria  and 
Korea.  The  European  resents  the  position  to 
which  he  finds  himself  relegated  in  Japan,  where  he 


THE  OUTLOOK 


267 


is  welcome  only  if  he  be  a tourist  with  money  to 
spend  in  the  country,  and  is  hampered  at  every 
point  if  he  tries  to  make  a living  for  himself ; but  he 
has  no  sustainable  grievance  here.  Japan  has  won 
the  right  to  dispose  absolutely  of  her  own  pos- 
sessions ; and  European  influence  is  amply  sufficient 
to  insure  reasonable  definition  of  what  those 
possessions  include. 

It  is  easy  to  threaten  Great  Britain  with  ghosts 
of  Hengist  and  Horsa  because  her  ally,  Japan, 
has  won,  in  her  own  interests,  a series  of  splendid 
victories  which  are  of  great  utility  to  the  Empire. 
Such  ghosts  will  take  to  themselves  bones  and 
flesh  with  absolute  certainty  the  day  that  British 
naval  efficiency  is  neglected  or  the  army  of  India 
is  allowed  to  fall  into  decay  ; but  they  are  com- 
paratively harmless  vapours  so  long  as  no  such 
national  suicide  be  committed.  Hengist  and 
Horsa  would  never  have  turned  upon  their  allies 
had  those  allies  been  of  fighting  stock  and  equiva- 
lently armed.  Whatever  our  Oriental  friendships, 
the  fate  of  the  ancient  Briton  is  not  yet  written  on 
the  forehead  of  the  Anglo-Saxon. 

The  Government  of  Japan  is  still  upon  an  aristo- 
cratic basis,  and  the  representatives  of  the  fighting 
Samurai  remain  in  practical,  though  no  longer  pro- 
fessed authority.  Should  the  democracy  prevail, 
hereafter,  and  an  influential  labour  party  become  a 
permanent  feature  of  the  Tokyo  Parliament,  the 
situation  would  tend  to  become  less  and  not  more 
acute,  since  the  proportion  of  the  national  income 


268 


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voted  for  the  furtherance  of  an  aggressive  foreign 
policy  would  be  reduced.  In  any  case,  however, 
minor  sources  of  friction  between  the  Anglo-Saxon 
and  the  Japanese  will  continue  to  exist.  There  is 
no  smoothing  away  the  racial  antipathies  of  indepen- 
dent and  intensely  self-reliant  peoples  belonging  to 
totally  different  branches  of  the  human  family  long 
isolated  from  each  other.  Even  those  white  men 
who  have  spent  the  greater  part  of  their  lives  in 
Japan,  who  have  studied  the  language  and  the 
customs  of  the  country,  and  allied  themselves  with 
it,  in  the  closest  personal  manner,  by  contracting 
permanent  and  fully  recognised  marriages  with 
Japanese  ladies  belonging  to  cultivated  and  influ- 
ential families,  find  themselves  often  aloof  from  the 
point  of  view  of  the  Japanese  amongst  whom  they 
live.  The  difficulties  which  they  encounter  upon  a 
small  scale  are  not  unlike  those  which  confront  the 
British  and  ^American  Governments  upon  a large 
scale,  in  relations  with  Tokyo. 

Unfortunate  incidents,  such  as  have  arisen 
during  the  past  autumn,  between  Americans  and 
Japanese  in  the  Pribyloffs  and  in  California,  are 
certain  to  recur  and  to  increase  the  strain ; but 
each  side  is  capable  of  making  sufficient  allowance 
for  the  idiosyncrasies  of  the  other  to  enable 
effectual  co-operation  to  continue  in  the  main  lines 
of  policy  that  govern  the  affairs  of  the  Far  East. 
Community  of  interest  makes  ever  a reliable  bond. 
The  much-advertised  theory  that  Japan  is  supplying 
nerves  and  brain  to  the  inert  corpus  of  China,  with 


THE  OUTLOOK 


269 


a view  to  arraying  it  against  the  white  man,  can 
easily  be  pushed  further  than  the  situation  justifies. 

The  Chinese  are  borrowing  European  sciences 
and  arts  second-hand  from  Japan,  but  they  are 
also  borrowing  them  first-hand  from  Europe.  The 
source  adopted  is  largely  determined  by  considera- 
tions of  price.  A Japanese  vogue  was  created  in 
China  by  the  success  of  Japan  over  Russia,  but 
this  is  already  decreasing,  the  Japanese  article 
proving  deficient  in  both  quantity  and  quality,  yet 
asking  scarcity  rates.  The  Japanese  has  an  advan- 
tage over  the  European  in  understanding  the 
Chinese,  because  of  his  racial  relationship  ; but  I 
have  found  no  indication  that  he  is  anywhere  ac- 
quiring any  special  ascendency  on  this  account.  On 
the  contrary,  his  failure  to  hand  back  Korea  to 
China  is  confirming  his  old  unpopularity.  Neither 
individually  nor  nationally  is  he  in  a position  to 
play  the  injurious  part  that  has  been  suggested  for 
him.  He  will  do  in  China  the  best  he  can  for 
himself ; but  this  need  not  cause  alarm  at  present 
to  anybody  else.  There  is  every  reason  to  suppose 
that  Japan  will  remain  the  valued  ally  of  Great 
Britain,  and  her  splendid  achievements  in  the  life- 
and-death  struggle,  from  which  she  has  emerged  so 
magnificently,  will  probably  not  be  obscured  by 
sustainable  charges  of  subsequent  broken  faith. 

The  Chinese  factor  is  more  complex.  If  racial 
characteristics,  hitherto  potent  in  keeping  the 
yellow  man  in  subordination  to  the  white,  were 
no  longer  operative,  the  future  would  cause  well- 


270 


THE  OUTLOOK 


founded  anxiety  for  the  world  in  general  as  well 
as  for  the  Far  East ; but  the  changes  which  are 
in  progress  do  not  go  so  deep.  Western  virility 
cannot  be  assumed  with  clothes  and  learning. 
Moral  qualities  have  to  be  inherited  to  stand  the 
test  of  trial.  The  imitation  does  not  wear  like  the 
original.  Modern  Chinese  civilisation  and  progress 
have  all  the  inherent  weaknesses  of  exotics. 
Growth  may  be  vigorous,  but  the  yield  will  not  be 
in  proportion  to  the  standing  size  of  the  crop. 

The  gravest  feature  of  the  situation  is  that  China 
is  arming  ; and  that  she  means  to  become  a world- 
power  equivalently  equipped  and  vastly  larger  than 
Japan.  The  menace  of  the  outlook  centres  upon 
the  seventy  thousand  mauser-armed  troops,  which 
Yuan-Shih-Kai  has  brought  into  being  in  Northern 
China.  This  large  force  is  far  more  efficient  than 
anything  Chinese  of  its  kind  that  has  ever  existed 
before ; and  it  is  liable  to  increase  in  size  indefinitely, 
if  nothing  be  done  to  check  its  growth  ; but  it  has 
certain  features  which  limit  its  capabilities.  It  may 
be  drilled,  organised,  and  armed  as  well  as  European 
troops,  though  some  of  the  incidents  of  the  recent 
manoeuvres  in  the  Honan  province,  in  which  twenty- 
four  thousand  men,  including  some  of  the  best  corps 
from  Paotingfu,  Tientsin,  Shantung,  and  Peking  took 
part,  do  not  indicate  that  this  is  yet  the  case. 

The  following  are  extracts  from  a telegram,  dated 
October  23,  1906,  published  by  the  London  Times, 
from  its  correspondent  in  Peking,  who  is  one  of 
the  closest  students  of  military  affairs  in  China : — 


THE  OUTLOOK 


271 


“The  general  opinion  formed  at  the  manoeuvres 
by  the  military  attaches  was  not  unfavourable, 
though  many  years’  work  towards  uniformity 
without  official  jobbery  will  be  needed  before  the 
troops  can  claim  equality  with  those  of  more 
advanced  nations.  The  inefficiency  of  the  officers 
is  still  conspicuous,  and  the  field  training  of  men  is 
still  inadequate,  but  the  material  is  good.  There 
was  little  confusion,  , discipline  was  satisfactory,  and 
the  men  showed  improved  military  bearing.  Inci- 
dents occurred  which,  if  repeated  in  war,  would  be 
disastrous.  The  spectacle  of  two  contending  forces 
blazing  at  each  other  while  standing  in  close  forma- 
tion at  sixty  yards’  distance  suggested  methods  of 
warfare  more  suitable  to  the  bow-and-arrow  period 
than  to  that  of  the  modern  rifle,  though  the  noise  of 
the  fusillade  was  highly  gratifying  to  the  Chinese 
spectators. 


“ Practically  all  the  forces  engaged  had  been 
instructed  by  Japanese  officers,  of  whom  twelve 
on  each  side,  dressed  in  Chinese  uniform  with 
queues,  took  a prominent  part.  Colonel  Ugata 
acting  as  chief  of  the  staff  to  Chang-piao,  com- 
manding the  Southern  Army,  and  Colonel  Banzai 
being  chief  military  adviser  to  Tuan  Chi-jui,  com- 
manding the  Northern  Army.  What  would  have 
happened  had  the  Japanese  been  absent  is  a 
question  easily  answered.  What  will  happen  to 
this  newly-formed  army,  whose  early  stages  we  are 


272 


THE  OUTLOOK 


witnessing,  when  the  strong  arm  of  Yuan-Shih-Kai 
ceases  to  control  them  is  not  so  easy  to  conjecture.” 

The  Chinese  soldier  may  be  prepared  to  meet 
death  at  his  post,  provided  it  comes  to  him  in  the 
precise  guise  in  which  he  has  been  trained  to  await 
it,  and  not  in  some  unexpected  form  ; but  he  remains 
Chinese  in  enterprise,  in  resourcefulness,  and  in 
spirit.  Travellers  in  the  interior  of  China  are 
familiar  with  a condition  of  abject  terror  of  the 
unknown,  upon  the  part  of  their  Chinese  servants, 
which  no  amount  of  military  training  can  eradicate. 
The  European  is  able  to  understand  the  low  esteem 
in  which  the  Japanese  hold  the  Chinese  when  he 
sees  for  himself  grown  Chinese  men  refusing  to 
leave  the  inside  of  a mule-cart  for  days  together 
because  the  route  taken  happens  to  lie  through  a 
region  where  highway  robbery  is  liable  to  occur. 

The  Manchurians  were  despised  by  both  the 
Russians  and  the  Japanese  during  the  late  war 
for  their  lack  of  fighting  quality,  yet  I have  heard 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  Manchurian  Hunchuses 
repulsing,  with  seventy  casualties,  a thousand 
modern-armed  Chinese  troops  in  the  province 
where  the  bulk  of  Yuan-Shih-Kai  s much  vaunted 
army  is  recruited.  The  Manchurians,  on  their 
way  to  attack  the  Chinese  on  this  occasion,  passed 
through  a village  in  which  some  British  and  Ger- 
man travellers  were  resting.  They  announced,  on 
their  arrival,  that  they  had  no  particular  quarrel 
with  the  white  man,  and  they  advised  the  British 


THE  OUTLOOK 


273 


to  stop  with  them,  on  the  ground  that  this  would 
be  the  safest  course,  but  said  they  would  not  make 
themselves  responsible  for  the  Germans.  The 
British  accordingly  stopped  and  were  well  treated. 
The  Germans  moved  on.  Little  doubt  seems  to 
have  been  felt  beforehand,  by  those  who  were 
present,  that  the  Chinese  would  get  the  worst  of 
the  fight  that  was  to  follow,  and  the  expected 
happened.  Yet  the  Chinese  troops  were  fair  samples 
of  the  force  for  which  such  extensive  achievement 
has  been  prophesied. 

An  incident,  described  to  me  by  an  eye-witness, 
at  a large  military  station  in  North  China  is  also 
apropos.  A force  of  modern  Chinese  troops  de- 
trained on  the  railway  platform  for  the  night, 
intending  to  resume  their  journey  on  the  following 
day.  Orders  had  been  issued  that  the  men  should 
not  go  into  the  bazars.  The  Chinese  officer  in 
charge  had  barely  reminded  his  men  of  this  pro- 
hibition when  he  saw  one  of  them  sneaking  away 
round  the  corner,  in  direct  defiance  of  his  authority. 
He  ran  after  the  delinquent,  seized  him  by  the 
hair,  dragged  him  back  and  kicked  him  soundly 
from  one  end  of  the  platform  to  the  other,  in 
the  sight  of  all  his  comrades.  The  soldier  re- 
ceived his  chastisement  with  howls  of  pain,  and 
nothing  further  was  heard  of  the  incident.  It 
struck  no  Chinese  present  that  there  was  anything 
improper  in  the  occurrence.  Yet  this  soldier  re- 
mains in  the  ranks,  and  is  expected  hereafter  to 
possess  the  respect  for  his  officers  and  himself  which 


274 


THE  OUTLOOK 


shall  enable  him  to  bear  himself  courageously  in  the 
face  of  the  enemies  of  his  country. 

The  now  disbanded  Chinese  regiment,  which  was 
raised  by  British  officers  at  Wei-hai-Wei,  has  shown 
another  weak  point  in  the  Chinese  soldier.  The 
men  who  could  be  induced  to  remain  in  the  corps 
proved  reliable  enough  in  the  operations  in  1900  for 
the  relief  of  Peking,  in  which  they  were  employed ; 
but  the  difficulty  of  preventing  their  deserting  was 
always  very  considerable.  A soldier  would  learn 
his  drill  conscientiously,  but  would  be  found  some 
morning  to  have  disappeared,  leaving  in  many  cases 
his  uniform,  rifle,  and  arrears  of  pay  behind.  It 
was  supposed  at  first  that  the  deserters  had  been 
attracted  by  promises  of  better  remuneration  in  the 
national  Chinese  army,  but  this  proves  not  to  have 
been  at  all  generally  the  case.  Indeed,  those  who 
slipped  away  from  the  British  corps  in  order  to  join 
the  Chinese  forces  rarely  remained  long  in  their  new 
employment.  As  a rule  the  reason  of  their  deser- 
tion was  nothing  more  than  the  caprice,  superstition 
or  prejudice  of  relatives  in  the  interior,  who  would 
send  a sudden  summons,  appealing  to  filial  or  family 
piety,  which  no  sense  of  military  obligation  could 
withstand.  Deserters  could  not  be  arrested  in  their 
homes  in  distant  provinces  ; and  the  evil  grew  to 
such  magnitude  as  to  necessitate  the  training  of  a 
disproportionate  number  of  men  in  order  to  keep 
the  corps  up  to  the  strength  prescribed.  This 
source  of  weakness  has  not  been  confined  to  the 
British  service  or  to  times  of  disturbance.  It  is 


THE  OUTLOOK 


275 


equally  if  not  more  prevalent  in  the  armies  of  the 
Chinese  Government  which  are  recruited  from 
similar  classes  to  those  employed  in  the  Wei-hai- 
Wei  corps,  but  with  smaller  pay,  slacker  discipline, 
and  less  tactful  handling. 

The  Chinese  is  a man  of  peace.  As  a trader 
and  a manufacturer  he  is  certain  to  become  an 
increasingly  serious  competitor  of  the  European. 
As  a soldier  he  possesses  many  merits,  including 
that  of  passive  fatalism,  which  makes  him  a difficult 
adversary  to  dislodge  from  a position  ; but  he  lacks 
altogether  the  dlan  which  makes  his  fellow-Mon- 
golians,  the  Gurkha  and  the  Japanese,  formidable 
on  the  offensive. 

No  opinion  on  the  subject  of  the  efficiency  of  the 
twentieth-century  army  of  China  carries  greater 
weight  than  that  of  Colonel  A.  W.  S.  Wingate, 
who  was  intelligence  officer  with  General  Gaselee’s 
force  at  the  relief  of  Peking  in  1900,  and  has  since 
been  engaged  in  survey  and  exploration  in  Northern 
China.  In  the  course  of  a lecture  delivered  before 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  in  London,  last 
December,  Colonel  Wingate  said  of  the  Chinese 
soldiers  of  to-day:  “At  learning  drill,  manoeuvres, 
military  exercises,  and  all  about  modern  warfare 
they  are  adepts.  Under  favourable  conditions,  they 
quickly  acquire  the  proficiency  and  accuracy  of  the 
German  Imperial  Guard  on  the  parade  ground  ; 
while  at  examinations  for  fitness  for  command,  or 
at  military  sketching,  reconnaissance,  &c.,  they 
soon  learn  to  excel.  What  they  lack  individually 


276 


THE  OUTLOOK 


is  the  will  to  fight  for  what,  hitherto,  has  been  to 
them  an  incomprehensible  object.  As  an  army 
their  fighting  value  is  still  inconsiderable,  because 
of  divided  interests  and  the  corrupt  and  inefficient 
way  in  which  an  excellent  system  is  worked.” 

The  present  Chinese  army  is  useless  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  country  from  outside  aggression. 
The  real  strength,  which  has  put  an  end  to  the 
predatory  enterprises  of  Continental  Europe  upon 
Chinese  territory,  is  to  be  found  solely  in  the  forces 
of  the  British  Empire  and  Japan.  The  Chinese 
troops  have  been  organised  to  bolster  up  the  ambi- 
tions of  particular  Chinese  viceroys.  They  are  not 
even  suitable  for  police  work.  On  the  other  hand, 
they  constitute  a real  and  ever-present  menace  to 
the  Europeans  resident  in  China.  They  are  liable 
to  be  used  at  any  time,  at  the  bidding  of  petty  spite 
or  imagined  grievance,  to  indulge  the  strong  anti- 
foreign  feeling  which  is  always  close  below  the 
surface  in  an  excitable  populace. 

The  mandarin  armed,  even  to  the  not  very  ad- 
vanced point  of  efficiency  requisite  to  convince  his 
easily  satisfied  vanity  that  he  is  invincible,  is  highly 
dangerous.  The  severe  lesson  which  the  Allies 
taught  the  Peking  Administration  in  1900,  as  to  the 
ability  of  the  white  man  to  avenge  unprovoked  and 
murderous  attack  upon  himself  and  his  Legations,  is 
becoming  effaced  by  the  blustering  self-confidence 
of  the  modern-drilled  Chinese  soldiery.  The  boy- 
cott of  American  goods  in  Canton,  the  Shanghai 
riot,  the  attempt  made  by  the  Chinese  Foreign 


THE  OUTLOOK 


277 


Office  during  the  past  autumn  to  obtain  the  control 
of  the  Chinese  customs,  the  more  astute  and  more 
recent  campaign  against  British-Indian  trade,  under 
the  guise  of  a crusade  to  abolish  the  undoubted 
evils  of  the  Chinese  opium  habit,  and  the  determi- 
nation that  is  growing  in  the  minds  of  the  officials 
of  every  yamen  in  China  to  supplant  European 
enterprise  in  local  railway,  mining,  commercial,  and 
industrial  undertakings,  all  possess  a background  in 
which  the  patriotic  Chinese  is  taught  to  imagine 
conquering  hosts  of  his  own  fellow-countrymen 
stamping  upon  the  white  man  with  hob-nailed 
boots.  The  European  does  profitable  business  in 
China  only  because  the  Chinese  do  not  possess 
rifles  and  men  to  turn  him  out.  The  armies  which 
are  growing  up  threaten,  sooner  or  later,  to  remove 
this  inability. 

Again  and  again  in  the  past  the  armaments  of 
China  have  been  turned  against  the  European. 
Nothing  has  occurred  to  render  the  future  immune 
from  repetition  of  the  events  of  the  years  1899- 
1900  when  white  men  were  murdered  by  Chinese 
soldiers  in  the  streets  of  Peking,  and  Chinese  artil- 
lery was  turned  upon  white  women  and  children  in 
Mukden.  The  larger  and  more  efficient  the  arma- 
ments the  sooner  may  trouble  be  expected  to  recur, 
and  the  more  serious  will  it  be.  China  cannot 
absorb  too  much  of  European  sciences,  learning, 
and  art ; but  quick-firing  guns  are  not  necessary 
for  this  purpose,  and  are  as  undesirable  playthings 
for  the  mandarin,  in  the  present  imperfect  stage 


278 


THE  OUTLOOK 


of  his  national  development,  as  loaded  revolvers 
would  be  in  a kindergarten.  Only  he  who  would 
abstain  from  taking  the  revolver  from  the  baby 
need  hesitate  as  to  the  proper  course  to  be  followed 
in  regard  to  guns  in  China. 

There  is  nothing  new  in  this  statement.  The 
agreement  between  the  Allies  and  the  Peking 
Government,  signed  September  7,  1901,  after  the 
Boxer  rising,  contains  the  following  formal  stipu- 
lation : — 

“China  has  agreed  to  prohibit  the  importation 
into  its  territory  of  arms  and  ammunition,  as 
well  as  of  materials  exclusively  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  arms  and  ammunition.  An  Imperial 
Edict  has  been  issued  on  August  25,  1901  (Annex 
No.  II.),  forbidding  the  said  importation  for  a 
term  of  two  years.  New  edicts  may  be  issued 
subsequently  extending  this  by  other  successive 
terms  of  two  years  in  case  of  necessity  recognised 
by  the  Powers.” 

It  seems  to  me  impossible  to  deny  that  the 
contingency  contemplated  in  this  stipulation  has 
arisen,  though  it  may  not  be  technically  accurate, 
as  yet,  to  claim  “ necessity  recognised  by  the 
Powers  ” as  one  of  its  attributes.  I am  aware  that 
to  press  for  the  carrying  out  of  any  arrangement 
agreed  to  by  the  Chinese  Government,  at  present, 
is  to  rouse  opposition,  and  that  to  press  in  this 
particular  matter  is  to  provoke  the  retort  that  it  is 
the  accepted  policy  of  Great  Britain  to  support  and 
not  to  weaken  the  forces  available  for  resisting  the 


i 

V 

i 


THE  OUTLOOK 


279 


aggression  of  Continental  Europe  upon  Chinese 
territory.  The  difficulties  found  in  enforcing  the 
prohibition  of  gun-running  after  the  Boxer  rising 
will  be  quoted  as  a further  objection.  The  con- 
troversy is  an  old  one ; but  the  fact  that  a decision 
was  arrived  at  in  1902  to  allow  Chinese  armament 
to  go  on  unchecked,  does  not  prove  that  it  is  either 
safe  or  desirable  to  persist  in  this  attitude,  under  the 
entirely  changed  conditions  which  have  since  arisen. 

Great  Britain  and  her  ally  Japan  succeeded  in 
putting  a stop  to  the  process  of  dismemberment  at 
a time  when  the  armed  strength  of  the  Chinese 
Government  was  still  a negligible  quantity,  and 
they  need  no  help  from  China  to  keep  up  this 
desirable  state  of  things.  The  difficulty  of  enforcing 
the  prohibition  against  the  arms  trade  may  be  even 
greater  at  this  stage  than  in  1902  ; but  something 
appreciable  can  still  be  done. 

Fortunately,  the  control  of  the  Chinese  customs, 
though  threatened,  has  not  yet  been  completely 
wrested  from  the  capable  hands  of  Sir  Robert  Hart 
and  his  European  assistants.  The  Chinese  customs 
officials  can  do  a great  deal  in  the  desired  direction 
if  they  receive  the  necessary  authority  to  act.  Even 
if  they  fail,  there  need  be  no  insurmountable  obstacle 
in  the  way  of  making  gun-running  as  penal  in 
Chinese  waters  as  it  is  already  on  the  Arabian 
side  of  the  Persian  Gulf,  where  patrol  by  European 
war-vessels  is  no  more  complete  than  off  the 
Chinese  coast.  The  arms  trade  in  China  is  con- 
ducted, almost  entirely,  by  European  firms  in 


28o 


THE  OUTLOOK 


Tientsin,  Shanghai,  and  Hongkong.  I believe  that 
the  traffic  has  only  to  be  declared  contraband  in 
Treaty  and  British  ports  to  effect  an  appreciable 
lessening  of  its  present  large  dimensions.  Importa- 
tions would  continue  clandestinely,  as  they  continued 
during  the  short  period,  subsequent  to  the  Boxer 
disturbances,  when  prohibition  was  in  operation ; 
but  the  supply  would  become  costly  to  an  extent 
that  would  appreciably  reduce  the  demand.  The 
existing  gun  factories  in  China  would  continue 
to  turn  out  enormous  quantities  of  poorly  made 
and  increasingly  obsolete  mausers  and  Krupp  guns. 

The  requirements  of  all  the  troops  which  the 
Chinese  maintain  would  be  amply  met,  so  far  as 
quantity  was  concerned ; but  the  standard  of 
capability  for  evil  would  be  kept  down,  since 
up-to-date  factories  in  Europe  and  America  would 
find  it  no  longer  profitable  to  vie  with  each  other  in 
pouring  into  China,  at  dumping  rates,  not  only  rifles 
and  quick-firing  guns  of  far  greater  efficiency  than 
the  Chinese  arsenals  can  produce,  but  also  steel 
castings  to  be  worked  up,  in  China,  into  yet  more 
rifles  and  guns,  and  machinery  to  enable  still  further 
Chinese  factories  to  be  started.  The  intention, 
which  T found  openly  professed  in  the  Chinese 
rifle  factories  at  Shanghai  and  Hanyang,  to  intro- 
duce electric  plant  to  manufacture  the  1899  model 
mauser,  in  place  of  the  less  efficient  mauser  of  1888, 
and  shells  with  time  instead  of  percussion  fuses, 
is  an  example  in  point.  No  doubt  complications 
and  friction  would  arise  in  carrying  out  any  scheme 


THE  OUTLOOK 


281 


of  prohibition,  but  these  could  be  kept  within 
bounds ; and  even  a low  degree  of  efficiency  in 
prevention,  combined  with  some  political  friction, 
would  be  better  than  avoidance  of  friction  combined 
with  no  prevention  at  all. 

Every  European  Power  which  trades,  or  hopes  to 
trade,  in  the  Far  East,  is  interested  in  discouraging 
Chinese  armament.  If  Great  Britain  leads  the  way 
in  pressing  for  reduction,  there  will  be  no  lack  of 
a following.  The  United  States  have  interests 
similar  to  those  of  this  country,  and  should 
co-operate  cordially.  It  is  reasonable  to  feel  con- 
fidence that  Japan  will  support  her  ally.  Once  the 
accord  of  the  three  Powers  which  have  guaranteed 
the  integrity  of  China  were  secured,  action  would 
be  possible.  Chinese  objection  to  such  action 
need  not  be  regarded  too  seriously  The  Oriental 
ever  respects  strength  ; and  a temperate  but  firm 
policy  has  only  to  be  pursued  steadfastly  to  be 
tolerated,  if  not  approved.  Procrastination  is  inter- 
preted as  weakness,  and  does  only  harm. 

Apart  from  dangers  connected  with  armament, 
the  Chinese  outlook  is  not  discouraging.  Germans, 
Japanese,  and  Belgians  are  capturing  an  ever- 
growing share  in  the  trade ; but  Great  Britain  still 
does  a larger  proportion  than  any  other  power. 
Japan  has  succeeded,  by  means  of  a high  tariff 
against  the  foreigner,  in  closing  her  own  markets, 
and  those  of  her  dependency,  Formosa,  against 
most  of  the  manufactures  of  Europe  ; but  the  vast 
markets  of  China  absorb  more  goods  than  ever 


282 


THE  OUTLOOK 


before.  It  has  become  customary  for  the  English- 
man in  the  Far  East  to  lament  over  the  lagging 
enterprise  of  his  fellow-countrymen  as  compared 
with  that  of  their  competitors  in  energy  and 
adaptability ; but  this  need  not  cause  anxiety  while 
British  steamers  equipped  like  those  of  Messrs. 
Jardine,  Matheson  and  Company  and  Messrs. 
Butterfield  and  Swire,  continue  to  do  the  bulk  of 
the  coasting  trade  of  the  treaty  ports,  and  so  long 
as  the  Peninsula  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation 
Company  still  takes  first  place  in  the  ocean-carrying 
trade  between  China  and  Europe,  while  a British 
house — the  Hongkong  and  Shanghai  Bank — nego- 
tiates the  Chinese  Government  loans,  and  British 
cable  companies  transmit  the  intelligence  of  every- 
thing of  importance  in  the  Far  East  to  the  world 
at  large.  The  Chinese  trader  continues  to  learn 
pigeon-English,  and  not  pigeon-German  or  pigeon- 
Japanese,  to  be  his  means  of  communication  with 
non  - Chinese  - speaking  British,  Germans,  and 
Japanese  alike.  German  and  Japanese  traders 
may  be  apter  than  their  British  competitors  at 
acquiring  a smattering  of  the  difficult  Chinese 
tongue ; but  it  is  possible  to  lay  too  much  stress 
upon  this  qualification,  since  the  test  of  success  is 
not  the  language  spoken  but  the  amount  of  business 
done ; and  in  this  both  Germans  and  Japanese  are 
behind.  Competition  is  increasing  in  every  branch 
of  Chinese  trade,  but  substantial  profits  can  still  be 
made.  British  prestige  still  stands  higher  than  that 
of  any  other  nation. 


THE  OUTLOOK 


283 


China  is  undoubtedly  following  in  the  footsteps 
of  Japan,  and  her  development  may  be  the  world- 
achievement  of  the  present  century.  For  the  time 
being,  her  administration  is  corrupt  and  inefficient, 
though  there  are  already  some  notable  exceptions ; 
and  real  patriotism  is  behind  the  movement  of 
reform.  The  Chinese  trader  is  honest,  and  the 
Chinese  official  is  capable  of  becoming  so.  Pro- 
gress will  be  slow  or  fast  according  to  the  accident 
of  the  views  which  prevail  in  the  Forbidden  City  ; 
but  it  is  certain. 

In  the  discernible  future  the  white  man  is  likely 
to  find  that  a high  tariff  hedge,  with  many  prickles, 
has  sprung  up  between  his  trade  and  the  Chinese 
market,  as  has  already  occurred  in  the  case  of 
Japan  ; but  such  catastrophe  can  be  postponed 
long,  and  perhaps  indefinitely,  by  energetic  action. 
The  pan- Mongolian  dragon,  which  now  snorts 
threateningly,  can  be  harnessed  to  the  chariot  of 
peaceful  progress,  but  will  do  grave  damage  if 
left  at  large. 

The  possession  of  India  confers  upon  Great 
Britain  a position  of  unique  advantage  in  regard 
to  the  Far  East.  I have  shown  how  closely  the 
interests  of  the  Indian  subjects  of  His  Majesty 
King  Edward  are  concerned  with  those  of  China 
and  Japan,  and  how  useful  to  the  Empire  the 
services  which  Simla  and  Calcutta  are  both  able 
and  willing  to  render  in  this  sphere.  Great  Britain 
has  but  to  encourage  these  services,  while  herself 
acting  with  ordinary  tact  and  resolution  in  the 


284 


THE  OUTLOOK 


support  of  her  own  vast  trade,  and  she  may  regard 
the  outlook  with  serenity.  The  dangers  which 
threaten  are  no  worse  than  those  which  English- 
men have  met  and  overcome  before. 

Friendliness  and  respect  for  one  another  are  not 
impossible  between  European  and  Mongolian 
peoples.  Canton  has  the  worst  reputation  of  any 
city  of  the  Far  East  for  antipathy  to  the  occidental, 
yet  in  the  temple  of  the  five  hundred  Genii,  in  the 
heart  of  Canton,  within  easy  reach  of  mob  violence 
at  any  time,  may  be  seen  to-day  the  life-sized 
statue  of  an  elderly  European  in  gilt  clothes  and 
black  hat,  which  the  Chinese  have  cared  for  and 
preserved  from  generation  to  generation  because 
the  original,  Marco  Polo,  was  a friend  to  their 
kind.  This  thirteenth-century  wanderer  had  no 
monopoly  of  ability  to  make  himself  loved  and 
reverenced.  A position  similar  to  that  which  he 
won  as  an  individual  is  open  to-day  to  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  as  a race.  But  the  Mongolian  was  not 
afraid  of  Marco  Polo,  and  he  is  afraid  of  us  to  the 
point  of  hostility  and  defiance.  It  can  be  attained, 
therefore,  only  by  fair  dealing  and  sympathy, 
protected  by  an  overwhelming  preponderance  of 
fighting  strength. 


APPENDIX 


THE  ANGLO-JAPANESE  TREATY 

The  following  is  the  text  of  the  Agreement  between  the 
United  Kingdom  and  Japan,  signed  at  London,  August  12 
1905 

Preamble. — The  Governments  of  Great  Britain  and 
Japan,  being  desirous  of  replacing  the  Agreement  con- 
cluded between  them  on  January  30,  1902,  by  fresh 
stipulations,  have  agreed  upon  the  following  Articles 
which  have  for  their  object — 

(a)  The  consolidation  and  maintenance  of  the  general 
peace  in  the  regions  of  Eastern  Asia  and  of  India  ; 

(d)  The  preservation  of  the  common  interests  of  all 
Powers  in  China  by  insuring  the  independence  and 
integrity  of  the  Chinese  Empire  and  the  principle  of 
equal  opportunities  for  the  commerce  and  industry  of  all 
nations  in  China  ; 

(c)  The  maintenance  of  the  territorial  rights  of  the 
High  Contracting  Parties  in  the  regions  of  Eastern  Asia 
and  of  India,  and  the  defence  of  their  special  interests  in 
the  said  regions  : — 

Article  I. — It  is  agreed  that  whenever,  in  the  opinion 
of  either  Great  Britain  or  Japan,  any  of  the  rights  and 
interests  referred  to  in  the  preamble  of  this  Agreement 
are  in  jeopardy,  the  two  Governments  will  communicate 
with  one  another  fully  and  frankly,  and  will  consider  in 


286  THE  ANGLO-JAPANESE  TREATY 


common  the  measures  which  should  be  taken  to  safeguard 
those  menaced  rights  or  interests. 

Article  II. — If  by  reason  of  unprovoked  attack  or 
aggressive  action,  wherever  arising,  on  the  part  of  any 
other  Power  or  Powers  either  Contracting  Party  should  be 
involved  in  war  in  defence  of  its  territorial  rights  or  special 
interests  mentioned  in  the  preamble  of  this  Agreement, 
the  other  Contracting  Party  will  at  once  come  to  the 
assistance  of  its  ally,  and  will  conduct  the  war  in  common, 
and  make  peace  in  mutual  agreement  with  it. 

Article  III. — Japan  possessing  paramount  political, 
military,  and  economic  interests  in  Corea,  Great  Britain 
recognises  the  right  of  Japan  to  take  such  measures  of 
guidance,  control,  and  protection  in  Corea  as  she  may 
deem  proper  and  necessary  to  safeguard  and  advance 
those  interests,  provided  always  that  such  measures  are 
not  contrary  to  the  principle  of  equal  opportunities  for 
the  commerce  and  industry  of  all  nations. 

Article  IV. — Great  Britain  having  a special  interest 
in  all  that  concerns  the  security  of  the  Indian  frontier, 
Japan  recognises  her  right  to  take  such  measures  in  the 
proximity  of  that  frontier  as  she  may  find  necessary  for 
safeguarding  her  Indian  possessions. 

Article  V. — The  High  Contracting  Parties  agree  that 
neither  of  them  will,  without  consulting  the  other,  enter 
into  separate  arrangements  with  another  Power  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  objects  described  in  the  preamble  of  this 
Agreement. 

Article  VI. — As  regards  the  present  war  between 
Japan  and  Russia,  Great  Britain  will  continue  to  maintain 
strict  neutrality  unless  some  other  Power  or  Powers  should 
join  in  hostilities  against  Japan,  in  which  case  Great 
Britain  will  come  to  the  assistance  of  Japan,  and  will 
conduct  the  war  in  common,  and  make  peace  in  mutual 
agreement  with  Japan. 


THE  ANGLO-JAPANESE  TREATY  287 


Article  VII. — The  conditions  under  which  armed 
assistance  shall  be  afforded  by  either  Power  to  the  other 
in  the  circumstances  mentioned  in  the  present  Agreement, 
and  the  means  by  which  such  assistance  is  to  be  made 
available,  will  be  arranged  by  the  Naval  and  Military 
authorities  of  the  Contracting  Parties,  who  will  from  time 
to  time  consult  one  another  fully  and  freely  upon  all 
questions  of  mutual  interest. 

Article  VIII. — The  present  Agreement  shall,  subject 
to  the  provisions  of  Article  VI.,  come  into  effect  immedi- 
ately after  the  date  of  its  signature,  and  remain  in  force  for 
ten  years  from  that  date. 

In  case  neither  of  the  High  Contracting  Parties  should 
have  notified  twelve  months  before  the  expiration  of  the 
said  ten  years  the  intention  of  terminating  it,  it  shall 
remain  binding  until  the  expiration  of  one  year  from  the 
day  on  which  either  of  the  High  Contracting  Parties  shall 
have  denounced  it.  But  if,  when  the  date  fixed  for  its 
expiration  arrives,  either  ally  is  actually  engaged  in  war, 
the  alliance  shall,  ipso  facto^  continue  until  peace  is  con- 
cluded. 

In  faith  whereof  the  Undersigned,  duly  authorised  by 
their  respective  Governments,  have  signed  this  Agreement 
and  have  affixed  thereto  their  Seals. 

Done  in  duplicate  at  London,  the  12th  day  of  August, 
1905.  (L.S)  Lansdowne,  His  Britannic  Majesty's 

Principal  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs.  (L.S.) 
Tadasu  HayaSHI,  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister 
Plenipotentiary  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Japan  at  the 
Court  of  St.  James. 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


The  following  is  the  text  of  the  treaty  between  Japan 
and  Russia  which  terminated  the  war  of  1904-5  : — 

The  Emperor  of  Japan  on  one  part  and  the  Emperor 
of  All  the  Russias  on  the  other  part,  animated  by  a desire 
to  restore  the  blessings  of  peace  to  their  countries,  have 
resolved  to  conclude  a treaty  of  peace  and  have  for  this 
purpose  named  their  plenipotentiaries,  that  is  to  say,  for 
his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  Baron  Komura  Jutaro 
Jusami,  Grand  Cordon  of  the  Imperial  Order  of  the  Rising 
Sun,  his  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  and  his  Excellency 
Takahira,  Kogoro,  Imperial  Order  of  the  Sacred  Treasure, 
his  minister  to  the  United  States,  and,  for  his  Majesty  the 
Emperor  of  All  the  Russias,  his  Excellency  Serge  Witte, 
his  secretary  of  state  and  president  of  the  Committee  of 
Ministers  of  the  Empire  of  Russia,  and  his  Excellency 
Baron  Roman  Rosen,  Master  of  the  Imperial  Court  of 
Russia,  his  Majesty’s  ambassador  to  the  United  States, 
who,  after  having  exchanged  their  full  powers,  which  were 
found  to  be  in  good  and  due  form,  have  concluded  the 
following  articles  : 

Article  I. — There  shall  henceforth  be  peace  and  amity 
between  their  Majesties  the  Emperor  of  Japan  and  the 
Emperor  of  All  the  Russias  and  between  their  respective 
States  and  subjects. 

Article  II. — The  Imperial  Russian  Government 
acknowledging  that  Japan  possesses  in  Korea  paramount 

2S8 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


289 


political,  military,  and  economical  interests,  engages 
neither  to  obstruct  nor  interfere  with  measures  for 
guidance,  protection,  and  control  which  the  Imperial 
Government  of  Japan  may  find  necessary  to  take  in 
Korea.  It  is  understood  that  Russian  subjects  in  Korea 
shall  be  treated  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  the  subjects 
and  citizens  of  other  foreign  Powers,  that  is  to  say  they 
shall  be  placed  on  the  same  footing  as  the  subjects  and 
citizens  of  the  most  favoured  nation.  It  is  also  agreed,  in 
order  to  avoid  causes  of  misunderstanding,  that  the  two 
high  contracting  parties  will  abstain  on  the  Russian- 
Korean  frontier  from  taking  any  military  measure  which 
may  menace  the  security  of  Russian  or  Korean  territory. 

Article  III. — Japan  and  Russia  mutually  engage. 

First. — To  evacuate  completely  and  simultaneously 
Manchuria,  except  the  territory  affected  by  the  lease  of 
the  Liaotung  Peninsula,  in  conformity  with  the  provisions 
of  the  additional  Article  I.  annexed  to  this  treaty  ; and 

Second. — To  restore  entirely  and  completely  to  the 
exclusive  administration  of  China  all  the  portions  of 
Manchuria  now  in  occupation  or  under  the  control  of  the 
Japanese  or  Russian  Troops,  with  the  exception  of  the 
territory  above  mentioned. 

The  Imperial  Government  of  Russia  declare  that  they 
have  not  in  Manchuria  any  territorial  advantages  or 
preferential  or  exclusive  concessions  in  the  impairment 
of  Chinese  sovereignty,  or  inconsistent  with  the  principle 
of  equal  opportunity. 

Article  IV. — Japan  and  Russia  reciprocally  engage 
not  to  obstruct  any  general  measures  common  to  all 
countries  which  China  may  take  for  the  development  of 
the  commerce  or  industry  of  Manchuria. 

Article  V. — The  Imperial  Russian  Government  trans- 
fers and  assigns  to  the  Imperial  Government  of  Japan, 
with  the  consent  of  the  Government  of  China,  the  lease 
u 


/ 


290 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


of  Port  Arthur,  Talien,  and  the  adjacent  territory  and 
territorial  waters,  and  all  rights,  privileges,  and  con- 
cessions connected  with  or  forming  part  of  such  lease, 
and  they  also  transfer  and  assign  to  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment of  Japan  all  public  works  and  properties  in  the 
territory  affected  by  the  above-mentioned  lease.  The 
two  contracting  parties  mutually  engage  to  obtain  the 
consent  of  the  Chinese  Government  mentioned  in  the 
foregoing  stipulation.  The  Imperial  Government  of 
Japan  on  their  part  undertake  that  the  proprietary 
rights  of  Russian  subjects  in  the  territory  above  referred 
to  shall  be  perfectly  respected. 

Article  VI. — The  Imperial  Russian  Government 
engage  to  transfer  and  assign  to  the  Imperial  Government 
of  Japan  without  compensation  and  with  the  consent  of 
the  Chinese  Government  the  railway  between  Chang- 
chun-fu  and  Kuan-chang-tsu  and  Port  Arthur  and  all 
> the  branches,  together  with  all  the  rights,  privileges,  and 
properties  appertaining  thereto  in  that  region,  as  well 
as  all  the  coal-mines  in  the  said  region  belonging  to  or 
worked  for  the  benefit  of  the  railway.  The  two  high 
contracting  parties  mutually  engage  to  obtain  the  consent 
of  the  Government  of  China  mentioned  in  the  foregoing 
stipulation. 

Article  VII. — Japan  and  Russia  engage  to  exploit 
their  respective  railways  in  Manchuria  exclusively  for 
commercial  and  industrial  purposes,  and  in  no  wise  for 
strategic  purposes.  It  is  understood  that  this  restriction 
does  not  apply  to  the  railway  in  the  territory  affected  by 
the  lease  of  the  Liaotung  Peninsula. 

Article  VIII. — The  Imperial  Governments  of  Japan 
and  Russia,  with  the  view  to  promote  and  facilitate 
intercourse  and  traffic,  will,  as  soon  as  possible,  conclude 
separate  convention  for  the  regulation  of  their  connecting 
railway  services  in  Manchuria. 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


291 

Article  IX. — The  Imperial  Russian  Government  cedes 
to  the  Imperial  Government  of  Japan  in  perpetuity  and 
full  sovereignty  the  southern  portion  of  the  Island  of 
Saghalien,  and  all  the  islands  adjacent  thereto,  and  the 
public  works  and  properties  thereon.  The  fiftieth  degree 
of  north  latitude  is  adopted  as  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  ceded  territory.  The  exact  alignment  of  such  territory 
shall  be  determined  in  accordance  with  the  provisions  of 
the  additional  Article  XI.  annexed  to  this  treaty.  Japan 
and  Russia  mutually  agree  not  to  construct  in  their  respec- 
tive possessions  on  the  Island  of  Saghalien,  or  the  adjacent 
islands,  any  fortifications  or  other  similar  military  works. 
They  also  respectively  engage  not  to  take  any  military 
measures  which  may  impede  the  free  navigation  of  the 
Strait  of  La  Perouse  and  the  Strait  of  Tartary. 

Article  X. — It  is  reserved  to  Russian  subjects,  inhabi- 
tants of  the  territory  ceded  to  Japan,  to  sell  their  real 
property  and  retire  to  their  country,  but  if  they  prefer  to 
remain  in  the  ceded  territory  they  will  be  maintained  and 
protected  in  the  full  exercise  of  their  industries  and  rights 
of  property,  on  condition  of  submitting  to  the  Japanese 
laws  and  jurisdiction.  Japan  shall  have  full  liberty  to 
withdraw  the  right  of  residence  in,  or  to  deport  from  such 
territory  any  inhabitants  who  labour  under  political  or 
administrative  disability.  She  engages,  however,  that  the 
proprietary  rights  of  such  inhabitants  shall  be  fully 
respected. 

Article  XI. — Russia  engages  to  arrange  with  Japan 
for  granting  to  Japanese  subjects  rights  of  fishery  along 
the  coasts  of  the  Russian  possessions  in  the  Japan,  Okhotsk, 
and  Behring  Seas.  It  is  agreed  that  the  foregoing  engage- 
ment shall  not  affect  rights  already  belonging  to  Russian 
or  foreign  subjects  in  those  regions. 

Article  XII. — The  treaty  of  commerce  and  navigation 
between  Japan  and  Russia  having  been  annulled  by  the 


292 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


war,  the  Imperial  Governments  of  Japan  and  Russia 
engage  to  adopt  as  a basis  for  their  commercial  relations, 
pending  the  conclusion  of  a new  treaty  of  commerce  and 
navigation,  the  basis  of  the  treaty  which  was  in  force  pre- 
vious to  the  present  war,  the  system  of  reciprocal  treat- 
ment on  the  footing  of  the  most  favoured  nation,  in  which 
are  included  import  and  export  duties,  customs,  formali- 
ties, transit,  and  tonnage  dues,  and  the  admission  and 
treatment  of  agents,  subjects,  and  vessels  of  one  country 
in  the  territories  of  the  other. 

Article  XIII. — So  soon  as  possible  after  the  present 
treaty  comes  in  force  all  prisoners  of  war  shall  be  reci- 
procally restored.  The  Imperial  Governments  of  Japan 
and  Russia  shall  each  appoint  a special  commissioner  to 
take  charge  of  the  prisoners.  All  prisoners  in  the  hands 
of  one  Government  shall  be  delivered  to  and  received  by 
the  commissioner  of  the  other  Government  or  by  his  duly 
authorised  representative  in  such  convenient  numbers  and 
such  convenient  ports  of  the  delivering  State  as  such 
delivering  State  shall  notify  in  advance  to  the  commis- 
sioner of  the  receiving  State.  The  Governments  of  Japan 
and  Russia  shall  present  each  other  so  soon  as  possible 
after  the  delivery  of  the  prisoners  is  completed  with  a 
statement  of  the  direct  expenditures  respectively  incurred 
by  them  for  the  care  and  maintenance  of  the  prisoners 
from  the  date  of  capture  or  surrender  and  up  to  the  time 
of  death  or  delivery.  Russia  engages  to  repay  to  Japan 
so  soon  as  possible  after  the  exchange  of  statements  as 
above  provided  the  difference  between  the  actual  amount 
so  expended  by  Japan  and  the  actual  amount  similarly 
disbursed  by  Russia. 

Article  XIV. — The  present  treaty  shall  be  ratified  by 
their  Majesties  the  Emperor  of  Japan  and  the  Emperor  of 
All  the  Russias.  Such  ratification  shall  be  with  as  little 
delay  as  possible  and  in  any  case  no  later  than  fifty 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


293 


days  from  the  date  of  the  signature  of  the  treaty,  to  be 
announced  to  the  Imperial  Governments  of  Japan  and 
Russia  respectively  through  the  French  Minister  at  Tokyo 
and  the  Ambassador  of  the  United  States  at  St.  Peters- 
burg, and  from  the  date  of  the  later  of  such  announce- 
ments this  treaty  shall  in  all  its  parts  come  into  full  force. 
The  formal  exchange  of  ratifications  shall  take  place  at 
Washington  so  soon  as  possible. 

Article  XV. — The  present  treaty  shall  be  signed  in 
duplicate  in  both  the  English  and  French  languages.  The 
texts  are  in  absolute  conformity,  but  in  case  of  a discre- 
pancy in  the  interpretation  the  French  text  shall  prevail. 

In  conformity  with  the  provisions  of  Articles  III.  and 
IX.  of  the  treaty  of  peace  between  Japan  and  Russia  of 
this  date,  the  undersigned  plenipotentiaries  have  concluded 
the  following  additional  articles  : 

Sub-Article  to  Article  III. — The  Imperial  Governments 
of  Japan  and  Russia  mutually  engage  to  commence  the 
withdrawal  of  their  military  forces  from  the  territory  of 
Manchuria  simultaneously  and  immediately  after  the 
treaty  of  peace  comes  into  operation,  and  within  a period 
of  eighteen  months  after  that  date  the  armies  of  the  two 
countries  shall  be  completely  withdrawn  from  Manchuria, 
except  from  the  leased  territory  of  the  Liaotung  Peninsula. 
The  forces  of  the  two  countries  occupying  the  front  posi- 
tions shall  first  be  withdrawn. 

The  high  contracting  parties  reserve  to  themselves  the 
right  to  maintain  guards  to  protect  their  respective  railway 
lines  in  Manchuria.  The  number  of  such  guards  shall  not 
exceed  fifteen  per  kilometre,  and  within  that  maximum 
number  the  commanders  of  the  Japanese  and  Russian 
armies  shall  by  common  accord  fix  the  number  of  such 
guards  to  be  employed  as  small  as  possible  while  having 
in  view  the  actual  requirements. 

The  commanders  of  the  Japanese  and  Russian  forces  in 


294 


THE  PORTSMOUTH  TREATY 


Manchuria  shall  agree  upon  the  details  of  the  evacuation 
in  conformity  with  the  above  principles,  and  shall  take  by 
common  accord  the  measures  necessary  to  carry  out  the 
evacuation  so  soon  as  possible,  and  in  any  case  no  later 
than  the  period  of  eighteen  months. 

Sub- Article  to  Article  IX. — So  soon  as  possible  after 
the  present  treaty  comes  into  force,  a commission  of 
delimitation  composed  of  an  equal  number  of  members  is 
to  be  appointed  respectively  by  the  two  high  contracting 
parties,  which  shall  on  the  spot  mark  in  a permanent 
manner  the  exact  boundary  between  the  Japanese  and 
Russian  possessions  on  the  island  of  Saghalien. ' The 
commission  shall  be  bound  so  far  as  topographical  con- 
siderations permit  to  follow  the  fiftieth  parallel  of  North 
latitude  as  the  boundary  line,  and,  in  case  any  deflections 
from  that  line  at  any  points  are  found  to  be  necessary, 
compensation  will  be  made  by  correlative  deflections  at 
other  points.  It  shall  also  be  the  duty  of  said  commission 
to  prepare  a list  and  a description  of  the  adjacent  islands 
included  in  the  cession,  and  finally  the  commission  shall 
prepare  and  sign  maps  showing  the  boundaries  of  the 
ceded  territory.  The  work  of  the  commission  shall  be 
subject  to  the  approval  of  the  high  contracting  parties. 

The  foregoing  additional  articles  are  to  be  considered 
ratified  with  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  of  peace  to  which 
they  are  annexed. 

Portsmouth,  the  Fifth  Day  of  the  Ninth  Month  of  the 
Thirty-eighth  year  of  Mejei,  corresponding  to  the  Twenty- 
third  of  August,  1905.  (September  5,  1905.) 

In  witness  whereof  the  respective  plenipotentiaries  have 
signed  and  affixed  seals  to  the  present  treaty  of  peace. 

Done  at  Portsmouth,  New  Hampshire,  this  Fifth  Day 
of  the  Ninth  Month  of  the  Thirty-eighth  Year  of  the 
Mejei,  corresponding  to  the  twenty-third  day  of  August, 
One  Thousand  Nine  Hundred  and  Five. 


THE  JAPANESE-KOREAN  SUZERAINTY 
PROTOCOL 

The  following  is  the  text  of  the  Agreement  signed 
November  17,  1905,  by  plenipotentiaries  of  Japan  and 
Korea,  whereby  Japan  becomes  the  medium  for  conducting 
the  foreign  relations  of  Korea  : — 

The  Governments  of  Japan  and  Korea,  desiring  to 
strengthen  the  principle  of  solidarity  which  unites  the 
two  Empires,  have  with  that  object  in  view  agreed  upon 
and  concluded  the  following  stipulations  to  serve  until 
the  moment  arrives  when  it  is  recognised  that  Korea  has 
attained  national  strength. 

Article  I. — The  Government  of  Japan,  through  the 
Department  of  Foreign  Affairs  in  Tokyo,  will  hereafter 
have  control  and  direction  of  the  external  relations  and 
affairs  of  Korea,  and  the  Diplomatic  and  Consular 
Representatives  of  Japan  will  have  the  charge  of  the 
subjects  and  interests  of  Korea  in  foreign  countries. 

Article  II. — The  Government  of  Japan  undertake  to 
see  to  the  execution  of  the  treaties  actually  existing 
between  Korea  and  other  Powers,  and  the  Government 
of  Korea  engage  not  to  conclude  hereafter  any  act  or 
engagement  having  an  international  character,  except 
through  the  medium  of  the  Government  of  Japan. 

Article  III. — The  Government  of  Japan  shall  be 
represented  at  the  Court  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor 
of  Korea  by  a Resident  General  who  shall  reside  at  Seoul, 
primarily  for  the  purpose  of  taking  charge  of  and  directing 

295 


296  JAPANESE-KOREAN  SUZERAINTY 


the  matters  relating  to  diplomatic  affairs.  He  shall  have 
the  right  of  private  and  personal  audiences  of  His  Majesty 
the  Emperor  of  Korea.  The  Japanese  Government  shall 
have  the  right  to  station  residents  at  the  several  open 
ports  and  such  other  places  in  Korea  as  they  may  deem 
necessary. 

Such  residents  shall,  under  the  direction  of  the  Resident 
General,  exercise  the  powers  and  functions  hitherto 
appertaining  to  Japanese  Consuls  in  Korea,  and  shall 
perform  such  duties  as  may  be  necessary  in  order  to  carry 
into  full  effect  the  provisions  of  this  Agreement. 

Article  IV. — The  stipulations  of  all  treaties  and 
agreements  existing  between  Japan  and  Korea,  not  in- 
consistent with  the  provisions  of  this  Agreement,  shall 
continue  in  force. 

Article  V. — The  Government  of  Japan  undertake  to 
maintain  the  welfare  and  dignity  of  the  Imperal  House 
of  Korea. 

In  faith  whereof  the  undersigned,  duly  authorised  by 
their  Governments,  have  signed  this  Agreement  and 
affixed  their  Seals. 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 

The  following  is  the  text  of  the  final  Protocal  between 
the  Powers  and  China,  for  the  resumption  of  friendly 
relations  after  the  Boxer  outbreak,  signed  at  Peking  on 
the  7th  of  September,  1901  : — 

The  Plenipotentiaries  of  Germany,  M.  A.  Mumm  von 
Schwarzenstein  ; of  Austria-Hungary,  Baron  M.  Czikann ; 
of  Belgium,  M.  Joostens;  of  Spain,  M.  B.  J.  de  Cologan ; 
of  the  United  States,  Mr.  W.  W.  Rockhill  ; of  France, 
M.  Beau  ; of  Great  Britain,  Sir  Ernest  Satow ; of  Italy, 
Marquis  Salvago  Raggi ; of  Japan,  M.  Jutaro  Komura  ; 
of  the  Netherlands,  M.  F.  M.  Knobel  ; of  Russia,  M. 
Michael  de  Giers ; and  the  Plenipotentiaries  of  China, 
His  Highness  Yi-K‘uang,  Prince  of  the  First  Rank  ; 
Ch‘ing,  President  of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Affairs  ; and 
his  Excellency  Li  Hung-chang,  Count  of  the  First  Rank  ; 
Su-Yi,  Tutor  of  the  Heir  Apparent ; Grand  Secretary 
of  the  Wen-Hua  Throne  Hall,  Minister  of  Commerce, 
Superintendent  of  Trade  for  the  North,  Governor-General 
of  Chihli,  have  met  for  the  purpose  of  declaring  that  China 
has  complied  with  the  conditions  laid  down  in  the  Note 
of  the  22nd  of  December,  1900,  and  which  were  accepted 
in  their  entirety  by  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  China  in 
a Decree  dated  the  27th  of  December,  1900  (Annex  No.  i). 

Article  I. — {a)  By  an  Imperial  Edict  of  the  9th  of  June 
last  (Annex  No.  2),  Tsai-Feng,  Prince  of  the  First  Rank, 
Chiin,  was  appointed  Ambassador  of  His  Majesty  the 

297 


298 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


Emperor  of  China,  and  directed  in  that  capacity  to  convey 
to  His  Majesty  the  German  Emperor  the  expression  of 
the  regrets  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  China  and 
of  the  Chinese  Government  at  the  assassination  of  his 
Excellency  the  late  Baron  von  Ketteler,  German  Minister. 

Prince  Chiinleft  Peking  on  the  i2thof  July  last  to  carry 
out  the  orders  which  had  been  given  him. 

(J?)  The  Chinese  Government  has  stated  that  it  will 
erect  on  the  spot  of  the  assassination  of  his  Excellency 
the  late  Baron  von  Ketteler  a commemorative  monument 
worthy  of  the  rank  of  the  deceased,  and  bearing  an  in- 
scription in  the  Latin,  German,  and  Chinese  languages 
which  shall  express  the  regrets  of  His  Majesty  the 
Emperor  of  China  for  the  murder  committed. 

The  Chinese  Plenipotentiaries  have  informed  his  Ex- 
cellency the  German  Plenipotentiary,  in  a letter  dated 
the  22nd  of  July  last  (Annex  No.  3),  that  an  arch  of  the 
whole  width  of  the  street  would  be  erected  on  the  said 
spot,  and  that  work  on  it  was  begun  on  the  25th  of  June  last. 

Article  II. — {a)  Imperial  Edicts  of  the  13th  and  21st 
of  February,  1901  (Annexes  Nos.  4,  5,  and  6),  inflicted  the 
following  punishments  on  the  principal  authors  of  the 
attempts  and  of  the  crimes  committed  against  the  foreign 
Governments  and  their  nationals  : — 

Tsa-Ii,  Prince  Tuan,  and  Tsai-Lan,  Duke  Fu-kuo,  were 
sentenced  to  be  brought  before  the  Autumnal  Court  of 
Assize  for  execution,  and  it  was  agreed  that  if  the 
Emperor  saw  fit  to  grant  them  their  lives,  they  should  be 
exiled  to  Turkestan,  and  there  imprisoned  for  life,  without 
the  possibility  of  commutation  of  these  punishments. 

Tsai  HsUn,  Prince  Chuang,  Ying-Nien,  President  of 
the  Court  of  Censors,  and  Chao  Shu-chiao,  President 
of  the  Board  of  Punishments,  were  condemned  to  commit 
suicide. 

Yu  Hsien,  Governor  of  Shansi,  Chi  Hsiu,  President  of 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


299 


the  Board  of  Rites,  and  HsU  Cheng-yu,  formerly  Senior 
Vice-President  of  the  Board  of  Punishments,  were  con- 
demned to  death. 

Posthumous  degradation  was  inflicted  on  Kang  Yi, 
Assistant  Grand  Secretary,  President  of  the  Board  of 
Works,  Hsii  Tung,  Grand  Secretary,  and  Li  Ping-heng, 
former  Governor-General  of  Szu-chuan. 

Imperial  Edict  of  the  13th  of  February  last  (Annex 
No.  7)  rehabilitated  the  memories  of  Hsii  Yung-yi,  Presi- 
dent of  the  Board  of  War;  Li  Shan,  President  of  the 
Board  of  Works ; Hsii  Ching  Cheng,  Senior  Vice- 
President  of  the  Board  of  Civil  Office;  Lien  Yuan,  Vice- 
Chancellor  of  the  Grand  Council  ; and  Yuan  Chang, 
Vice-President  of  the  Court  of  Sacrifices,  who  had  been 
put  to  death  for  having  protested  against  ^the  outrageous 
breaches  of  international  law  of  last  year. 

Prince  Chuang  committed  suicide  on  the  21st  of 
February  last ; Ying  Nien  and  Chao  Shu-chiao  on  the 
24th  of  February ; Yu  Hsien  was  executed  on  the  22nd  of 
February ; Chi  Hsiu  and  Hsii  Cheng-yu  on  the  26th  of 
February  ; Tung  Fu-hsiang,  General  in  Kan-su,  has  been 
deprived  of  his  office  by  Imperial  Edict  of  the  13th  of 
February  last,  pending  the  determination  of  the  final 
punishment  to  be  inflicted  on  him. 

Imperial  Edicts,  dated  the  29th  of  April  and  19th  of 
August,  1901,  have  inflicted  various  punishments  on  the 
provincial  officials  convicted  of  the  crimes  and  outrages  of 
last  summer. 

(^)  An  Imperial  Edict,  promulgated  the  19th  of 
August,  1901  (An. ex  No.  8),  ordered  the  suspension  of 
official  examinations  for  five  years  in  all  cities  where 
foreigners  were  massacred  or  submitted  to  cruel  treatment. 

Article  III. — So  as  to  make  honourable  reparation  for 
the  assassination  of  Mr.  Sugiyama,  Chancellor  of  the  J apanese 
Legation,  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  China,  by  an  Im- 


300 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


perial  Edict  of  the  1 8th  of  June,  1 90 1 ( A nnex  N o.  9),  appointed 
Na  T‘ung,  Vice-President  of  the  Board  of  Finances,  to  be 
his  Envoy  Extraordinary,  and  specially  directed  him  to 
convey  to  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Japan  the  expression 
of  the  regrets  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  China  and 
of  his  Government  at  the  assassination  of  Mr.  Sugiyama. 

Article  IV. — The  Chinese  Government  has  agreed  to 
erect  an  expiatory  monument  in  each  of  the  foreign  or 
international  cemeteries  which  were  desecrated,  and  in 
which  the  tombs  were  destroyed. 

It  has  been  agreed  with  the  Representatives  of  the 
Powers  that  the  Legations  interested  shall  settle  the 
details  for  the  erection  of  these  monuments,  China  bearing 
all  the  expenses  thereof,  estimated  at  10,000  taels,  for  the 
cemeteries  at  Peking  and  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  at 
5,000  taels  for  the  cemeteries  in  the  provinces.  The 
amounts  have  been  paid,  and  the  list  of  these  cemeteries 
is  inclosed  herewith  (Annex  No.  10). 

Article  V. — China  has  agreed  to  prohibit  the  importa- 
tion into  its  territory  of  arms  and  ammunition,  as  well  as 
of  materials  exclusively  used  for  the  manufacture  of  arms 
and  ammunition. 

An  Imperial  Edict  has  been  issued  on  the  25th  of  August 
(Annex  No.  ii),  forbidding  said  importation  for  a term  of 
two  years.  New  Edicts  may  be  issued  subsequently  ex- 
tending this  by  other  successive  terms  of  two  years  in  case 
of  necessity  recognised  by  the  Powers. 

Article  VI. — By  an  Imperial  Edict  dated  the  29th  of 
May,  1901  (Annex  No.  12),  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of 
China  agreed  to  pay  the  Powers  an  indemnity  of  450,000,000 
of  Haikwan  taels. 

This  sum  represents  the  total  amount  of  the  indemnities 
for  States,  Companies,  or  Societies,  private  individuals 
and  Chinese,  referred  to  in  Article  6 of  the  note  of  the 
22nd  of  December,  1900. 


I 


THE  PEKING  TREATY  301 

{a)  These  450,000,000  constitute  a gold  debt  calculated 
!'  at  the  rate  of  the  Haikwan  tael  to  the  gold  currency  of 
: each  country,  as  indicated  below  : — 


'Marks  ...  ...  ...  ...  3*055 

Austro-Hungary  crown  ...  3*595 

Gold  dollar  ...  ...  ...  0*743 

Haikwan  tael  = 

£ sterling  3s. 

Yen  1*407 

Netherlands  florin  ...  ...  1*796 


Gold  rouble  (17*434  dolias  fine)  1*412 


This  sum  in  gold  shall  bear  interest  at  4 per  cent,  per 
annum,  and  the  capital  shall  be  reimbursed  by  China  in 
thirty-nine  years  in  the  manner  indicated  in  the  annexed 
plan  of  amortisation  (Annex  No.  13).  Capital  and  interest 
shall  be  payable  in  gold  or  at  the  rates  of  exchange  corre- 
sponding to  the  dates  at  which  the  different  payments  fall 
due. 

The  amortization  shall  commence  the  ist  of  January,  1902, 
and  shall  finish  at  the  end  of  the  year  1940.  The  amorti- 
zations are  payable  annually,  the  first  payment  being  fixed 
on  the  1st  of  January,  1903. 

Interest  shall  run  from  the  1st  of  July,  1901,  but  the 
Chinese  Government  shall  have  the  right  to  pay  off 
within  a term  of  three  years,  beginning  January,  1902, 
the  arrears  of  the  first  six  months  ending  the  31st  of 
December,  1901,  on  condition,  however,  that  it  pays 
compound  interest  at  the  rate  of  4 per  cent,  a year  on 
the  sums  the  payment  of  which  shall  have  been  thus 
deferred. 

Interest  shall  be  payable  semi-annually,  the  first  pay- 
ment being  fixed  on  the  ist  of  July,  1902. 


302 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


(d)  The  service  of  the  debt  shall  take  place  in  Shanghai 
in  the  following  manner  : — 

Each  Power  shall  be  represented  by  a Delegate  on  a 
Commission  of  bankers  authorised  to  receive  the  amount 
of  interest  and  amortization  which  shall  be  paid  to  it  by 
the  Chinese  authorities  designated  for  that  purpose,  to 
divide  it  among  the  interested  parties,  and  to  give  a 
receipt  for  the  same. 

(^)  The  Chinese  Government  shall  deliver  to  the  Doyen 
of  the  Diplomatic  Corps  at  Peking  a bond  for  the  lump 
sum,  which  shall  subsequently  be  converted  into  fractional 
bonds  bearing  the  signature  of  the  Delegates  of  the  Chinese 
Government  designated  for  that  purpose.  This  operation 
and  all  those  relating  to  issuing  of  the  bonds  shall  be 
performed  by  the  above-mentioned  Commission,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  instructions  which  the  Powers  shall 
send  their  Delegates. 

(d)  The  proceeds  of  the  revenues  assigned  to  the 
payment  of  the  bonds  shall  be  paid  monthly  to  the 
Commission. 

(e)  The  revenues  assigned  as  security  for  the  bonds  are 
the  following : — 

1.  The  balance  of  the  revenues  of  the  Imperial  Maritime 
Customs,  after  payment  of  the  interest  and  amortization  of 
preceding  loans  secured  on  these  revenues,  plus  the  pro- 
ceeds of  the  raising  to  5 per  cent,  effective  of  the  present 
tariff  of  maritime  imports,  including  articles  until  now  on 
the  free  list,  but  exempting  rice,  foreign  cereals,  and  flour, 
gold  and  silver  bullion  and  coin. 

2.  The  revenues  of  the  native  Customs,  administered  in 
the  open  ports  by  the  Imperial  Maritime  Customs. 

3.  The  total  revenues  of  the  salt  gabelle,  exclusive  of 
the  fraction  previously  set  aside  for  other  foreign  loans. 

The  raising  of  the  present  tariff  on  imports  to  5 per 
cent,  effective  is  agreed  to  on  the  conditions  mentioned 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


303 


below.  It  shall  be  put  in  force  two  months  after  the 
signing  of  the  present  Protocol,  and  no  exceptions  shall 
be  made  except  for  merchandise  in  transit  not  more  than 
ten  days  after  the  said  signing. 

1.  All  duties  levied  on  imports  valorem  shall  be  con- 
verted as  far  as  possible  and  as  soon  as  may  be  into  specific 
duties. 

This  conversion  shall  be  made  in  the  following 
manner : — 

The  average  value  of  merchandise  at  the  time  of  their 
landing  during  the  three  years  1897,  1898,  and  1899,  that 
is  to  say,  the  market  price  less  the  amount  of  import 
duties  and  incidental  expenses,  shall  be  taken  as  the  basis 
for  the  valuation  of  merchandise. 

Pending  the  result  of  the  work  of  conversion,  duties 
shall  be  levied  ad  valorem. 

2.  The  beds  of  the  Rivers  Whangpoo  and  Peiho  shall 
be  improved  with  the  financial  participation  of  China. 

Article  VII. — The  Chinese  Government  has  agreed 
that  the  quarter  occupied  by  the  Legations  shall  be  con- 
sidered as  one  specially  reserved  for  their  use  and  placed 
under  their  exclusive  control,  in  which  Chinese  shall  not 
have  the  right  to  reside,  and  which  may  be  made 
defensible.  The  limits  of  this  quarter  have  been  fixed  as 
follows  on  the  annexed  plan  (Annex  No.  14). 

On  the  east,  Ketteler  Street  (10,  ii,  12). 

On  the  north,  the  line,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10. 

On  the  west,  the  line,  i,  2,  3,  4,  5. 

On  the  south,  the  line  12 — i,  drawn  along  the  exterior 
base  of  the  Tartar  wall,  and  following  the  line  of  the 
bastions. 

In  the  Protocol  annexed  to  the  letter  of  the  i6th  of 
January,  1901,  China  recognised  the  right  of  each  Power 
to  maintain  a permanent  guard  in  the  said  quarter  for  the 
defence  of  its  Legation. 


304 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


Article  VIII. — The  Chinese  Government  has  con- 
sented to  raze  the  forts  of  Taku,  and  those  which  might 
impede  free  communication  between  Peking  and  the  sea. 
Steps  have  been  taken  for  carrying  this  out. 

Article  IX. — The  Chinese  Government  conceded 
the  right  to  the  Powers  in  the  Protocol  annexed  to  the 
letter  of  the  i6th  of  January,  1901,  to  occupy  certain 
points,  to  be  determined  by  an  Agreement  between 
them  for  the  maintenance  of  open  communication  be- 
tween the  capital  and  the  sea.  The  points  occupied  by 
the  Powers  are  : — 

Huang-tsun,  Lang-fang,  Yang-tsun,  Tien-tsin,  Chun- 
liang-Cheng,  Tong-ku,  Lu-tai,  Tong-shan,  Lan-chou, 
Chang-li,  Chin-wang  Tao,  Shan-hai  Kuan. 

Article  X. — The  Chinese  Government  has  agreed  to 
post  and  to  have  published  during  two  years  in  all  district 
cities  the  following  Imperial  Edicts  : — 

(a)  Edict  of  the  ist  of  February,  1901  (Annex  No.  15) 
prohibiting  for  ever,  under  pain  of  death,  membership  in 
any  anti-foreign  society. 

(3)  Edicts  of  the  13th  and  21st  February,  29th  April 
and  19th  August,  1901,  enumerating  the  punishments 
inflicted  on  the  guilty. 

(c)  Edict  of  the  19th  August,  1901,  prohibiting  examina- 
tions in  all  cities  where  foreigners  were  massacred  or 
subjected  to  cruel  treatment. 

(d)  Edicts  of  the  ist  February,  1901  (Annex  No.  16), 
declaring  all  Governors- General,  Governors,  and  provincial 
or  local  officials  responsible  for  order  in  their  respective 
districts,  and  that  in  case  of  new  anti-foreign  troubles  or 
other  infractions  of  the  Treaties  which  shall  not  be  imme- 
diately repressed  and  the  authors  of  which  shall  not  have 
been  punished,  these  officials  shall  be  immediately  dismissed 
without  possibility  of  being  given  new  functions  or  new 
honours. 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


305 

The  posting  of  these  Edicts  is  being  carried  on  throughout 
the  Empire. 

Article  XL — The  Chinese  Government  has  agreed  to 
negotiate  the  amendments  deemed  necessary  by  the 
foreign  Governments  to  the  Treaties  of  Commerce  and 
Navigation  and  the  other  subjects  concerning  commercial 
relations  with  the  object  of  facilitating  them. 

At  present,  and  as  a result  of  the  stipulation  contained 
in  Article  6 concerning  the  indemnity,  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment agrees  to  assist  in  the  improvement  of  the  courses  of 
the  Rivers  Peiho  and  Whangpoo,  as  stated  below : — 

(a)  The  works  for  the  improvement  of  the  navigability 
of  the  Peiho,  begun  in  1898  with  the  co-operation  of  the 
Chinese  Government,  have  been  resumed  under  the  direc- 
tion of  an  International  Commission.  As  soon  as  the 
Administration  of  Tien-tsin  shall  have  been  handed  back 
to  the  Chinese  Government  it  will  be  in  a position  to  be 
represented  on  this  Commission,  and  will  pay  each  year  a 
sum  of  60,000  Haikwan  taels  for  maintaining  the  works. 

(d)  A Conservancy  Board,  charged  with  the  management 
and  control  of  the  works  for  straightening  the  Whangpoo 
and  the  improvement  of  the  course  of  that  river,  is  hereby 
created. 

The  Board  shall  consist  of  members  representing  the 
interests  of  the  Chinese  Government  and  those  of  foreigners 
in  the  shipping  trade  of  Shanghae. 

The  expenses  incurred  for  the  works  and  the  general 
management  of  the  undertaking  are  estimated  at  the 
annual  sum  of  460,000  Haikwan  taels  for  the  first  twenty 
years.  This  sum  shall  be  supplied  in  equal  portions  by 
the  Chinese  Government  and  the  foreign  interests  con- 
cerned. Detailed  stipulations  concerning  the  composi- 
tion, duties,  and  revenues  of  the  Conservancy  Board  are 
embodied  in  Annex  No.  17. 

Article  XII. — An  Imperial  Edict  of  the  24th  July,  1901 

X 


3o6 


THE  PEKING  TREATY 


(Annex  No.  i8),  reformed  the  Office  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
Tsung-li  Yamen,  on  the  lines  indicated  by  the  Powers, 
that  is  to  say,  transformed  it  into  a Ministry  of  Foreign 
Affairs,  Wai  Wu  Pu,  which  takes  precedence  over  the  six 
other  Ministries  of  State ; the  same  Edict  appointed  the 
principal  Members  of  this  Ministry. 

An  agreement  has  also  been  reached  concerning  the 
modification  of  Court  ceremonial  as  regards  the  reception 
of  foreign  Representatives,  and  has  been  the  subject  of 
several  notes  from  the  Chinese  Plenipotentiaries,  the 
substance  of  which  is  embodied  in  a Memorandum 
herewith  annexed  (Annex  No.  19). 

Finally,  it  is  expressly  understood  that  as  regards  the 
declarations  specified  above  and  the  annexed  documents 
originating  with  the  foreign  Plenipotentiaries,  the  French 
text  only  is  authoritative. 

The  Chinese  Government  having  thus  complied  to  the 
satisfaction  of  the  Powers  with  the  conditions  laid  down 
in  the  above-mentioned  note  of  the  22nd  December,  1900, 
the  Powers  have  agreed  to  accede  to  the  wish  of  China  to 
terminate  the  situation  created  by  the  disorders  of  the 
summer  of  1900.  In  consequence  thereof,  the  foreign 
Plenipotentiaries  are  authorised  to  declare  in  the  names  of 
their  Governments  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  Legation 
guards  mentioned  in  Article  7,  the  international  troops 
will  completely  evacuate  the  city  of  Peking  on  the  17th 
September,  1901,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  localities 
mentioned  in  Article  9,  will  withdraw  from  the  Province  of 
Chihli  on  the  22nd  September,  1901. 

The  present  final  Protocol  has  been  drawn  up  in  twelve 
identic  copies,  and  signed  by  all  the  Plenipotentiaries  of 
the  contracting  countries.  One  copy  shall  be  given  to 
each  of  the  foreign  Plenipotentiaries,  and  one  copy  shall 
be  given  to  the  Chinese  Plenipotentiaries. 


INDEX 


Agitation  in  South  China,  29 
American  boycott,  9,  36  ' 

Anglo-Japanese  Treaty,  285 
Anti-Foreign  movement,  9,  23,  31,  36, 

77,  106,  277 
Antung,  141 

Armaments  in  China,  23,  38,  85,  106, 
270,  276 

Boxer  rising,  7,  104 
Brick  tea  industry,  81 
Brown,  Mr.  McLeavy,  189 

Canton,  16,  21 
Chan-Chi-Tung,  4,  14,  79 
Chen-wang-tao,  117 
Chinese  arms  trade,  278 
Chinese  character,  12,  16,  29,  38,  75, 
107,  1 15,  272,  275 
Chinese  customs,  279 
Chinese  graves,  100 
Chinese  in  British  Territory,  ii 
Chinese  outlook,  281 
Chinese  possibilities,  269 
Chinese  troops,  8,  114,  270 
Coal  mining  in  the  Far  East,  85,  126, 
164,  192 

Coolie  traffic,  16,  117,  192 
Cordite  factories  in  China,  41,  82 
Cotton  industry  42,  81,  205 
Customs  duties,  213 

Dalny,  141 

307 


Education  in  China  and  Japan,  22, 
108,  228 

Efficiency  of  Chinese  troops,  270 
Electric  installations,  82,  140,  231 
Engineering  and  Mining  Co.,  125 

Famine  in  China  and  Japan,  99  210 
Finance  in  China,  107,  114 
Finance  in  Japan,  213 

Great  Wall,  the,  127 

Gun  foundries  in  China,  39,  89 

Hankow  factories,  79 
Hankow-Peking  Railway,  91 
Hanyang  arsenal,  83 
Hart,  Sir  Robert,  109,  279 
Hongkong  development,  29 
Hunchus  highwaymen,  166 

India  as  a factor,  253,  283 
Industrial  competition,  4,  81,  I12,  126 
Industries  in  Japan,  206 
Iron  and  steel  works  in  China  and 
Japan,  39,  83,  203,  206 

ITO,  Marquis,  in  Korea,  189, 195,  200 

Japanese  character,  145,  203,  217, 
236,  268 

Johore,  palace  of,  61 
Justice  in  China,  no 
Justice  in  Japan,  227 


3o8 


INDEX 


Kiang-Nan  gun  factory,  3 
Korea,  future  of,  191 
Korean  character,  192 

Labour  in  the  Far  East,  117,  128^ 
192,  21 1 

Legations  in  Peking,  105 
Liaotung  peninsula,  132 
Liaoyang  battlefield,  150 
Library  in  the  Ming  Palace,  160 

Manchurian  battlefields,  124,  137, 

150,  155 

Manchurian  character,  170,  272 
Manchurian  people,  133,  15 1,  156 
Manchurian  products,  141 
Manchurian  trade,  143,  265 
Marco  Polo,  284 
Medical  science  in  China,  109 
Military  academy  near  Canton,  22 
Ming  tombs,  158 
Mining  in  China,  85,  100 
Missionary  hopefulness,  36 
Missionary  troubles,  47,  56 
Mukden,  city  of,  155 

Nanchang  massacre,  34,  57 
Nanking,  37 

Nationalisation  of  Japanese  railways, 
222 

Neuchwang  port,  128,  141 

Osaka  factories,  4,  207 

Peking  city,  104 
Peking  Syndicate,  lOO 
Peking  Treaty,  297 
Pingyang  city,  184 


Policy  of  forgetting,  106 
Port  Arthur  to-day,  13 1,  140 
Portsmouth  Treaty,  288 
Post  Office  in  China,  108 

Railway  gauges  in  the  Far  East,  26, 
142,  162 

Railways  in  China,  25,  42,91, 117, 126 

Railways  in  Japanese  hands,  132,  205 

Railways  in  Korea,  173 

Rest  houses,  139,  150,  167,  170 

Rifle  factories,  38,  83,  207 

Riot  in  Nanchang,  57 

Riot  in  Shanghai,  34 

River  transport  in  Manchuria,  142 

Satow,  Sir  Ernest,  147 
Shan-hai-kwan,  127 
Shipbuilding  in  the  Far  East,  4,  41 
231 

Singapore,  13,  17 
Tea  industry,  81 

Timber  trade,  86, 142,  166,  190,  201 
Time  in  Manchuria,  161 
Tientsin  progress,  125 
Torture  in  China  and  Japan,  no,  238 

University  of  Peking,  108 

Wuchang  mills,  4,  24,  81 
Wusung  forts,  42 

Yangtse  travelling,  42 
Yellow  River  bridge,  96 
Yellow  Rver  floods,  98 
Yuan-Shih-Kai,  6,  24,  115,  270 


UNWIN  BROTHERS,  UMITED,  THE  GRESHAM  PRESS,  WOKING  AND  LONDON. 


